Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 70
www.DrSamer.co.nz
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« on: June 18, 2012, 05:32 AM » |
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Hi guys,
my new festool ts55r leaving burn marks on out side cutting ?
any one konw what is can be?
i notes burn marks on out side teethes blade.
im using 48 fine saw blade to cut Rimu wood (soft wood)
i can feel that motor struggling to cut .
thanks all..
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2012, 05:46 AM » |
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Are you cross cutting or ripping? What is the thickness of the wood that you are cutting?
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
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« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2012, 06:01 AM » |
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Are you cross cutting or ripping? What is the thickness of the wood that you are cutting?
Hi Peter, Im just cleaning edge of 3 meter long slab , 20mm thick to do some laminate . Thanks |
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Timtool
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« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2012, 06:11 AM » |
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it could mean that the wood is "working" and trying to pinch the blade, even with a riving knife. Once you cut a certain length, try spreading the cut line behind the saw with a triangular block. Thats how i do it very occasionally when theres extreme tension in the wood.
It's that or either your base is crooked.
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TS55R, CT22E, CTLmini, Kapex KS120, ETS125, ETS150/5, RO150, RO90, CXS-set, T-15+3 set, DTS400, OF1010, OF2200 set, Carvex PS420 EBQ set, Centrotec installer set, LR32-sys, FS-800, FS-LR-1400x2, domino 500+domino sys, domino 700 XL, Surfix-sys, Sys-box 1, Syslite, LEV-350, Sys-box,MFTB/1-2-4... MFTC
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
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« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2012, 06:14 AM » |
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I found this saw blade on internet,
my one look like this .
the other side is perfect clean.
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 70
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« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2012, 06:19 AM » |
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it could mean that the wood is "working" and trying to pinch the blade, even with a riving knife. Once you cut a certain length, try spreading the cut line behind the saw with a triangular block. Thats how i do it very occasionally when theres extreme tension in the wood.
It's that or either your base is crooked.
Hi TimTool. ? maybe i need play with does 2 green knob in the saw ? to travel straight in guide rail? Thanks man |
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Timtool
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« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2012, 06:53 AM » |
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it could mean that the wood is "working" and trying to pinch the blade, even with a riving knife. Once you cut a certain length, try spreading the cut line behind the saw with a triangular block. Thats how i do it very occasionally when theres extreme tension in the wood.
It's that or either your base is crooked.
Hi TimTool. ? maybe i need play with does 2 green knob in the saw ? to travel straight in guide rail? Obviously, i suppose(d) you had done that from the start. When you place the saw on the rail it must not be able to twist left or right, tighten the green knobs as much as possible as long as the saw still slides easily on the rail Thanks man |
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TS55R, CT22E, CTLmini, Kapex KS120, ETS125, ETS150/5, RO150, RO90, CXS-set, T-15+3 set, DTS400, OF1010, OF2200 set, Carvex PS420 EBQ set, Centrotec installer set, LR32-sys, FS-800, FS-LR-1400x2, domino 500+domino sys, domino 700 XL, Surfix-sys, Sys-box 1, Syslite, LEV-350, Sys-box,MFTB/1-2-4... MFTC
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 70
www.DrSamer.co.nz
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« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2012, 07:13 AM » |
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it could mean that the wood is "working" and trying to pinch the blade, even with a riving knife. Once you cut a certain length, try spreading the cut line behind the saw with a triangular block. Thats how i do it very occasionally when theres extreme tension in the wood.
It's that or either your base is crooked.
Hi TimTool. ? maybe i need play with does 2 green knob in the saw ? to travel straight in guide rail? Obviously, i suppose(d) you had done that from the start. When you place the saw on the rail it must not be able to twist left or right, tighten the green knobs as much as possible as long as the saw still slides easily on the rail Thanks man Hi Timtool I did it , when i got the saw the first thing i did tight the green knobs i hope is not something serious . im worried. thanks |
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2012, 08:58 AM » |
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All the answers above are indeed possibilities. I will offer the following:
If you are using the TS-55R to cut with the grain of the wood (ripping) then the blade you are using is not the best solution. You can get by and some members will clamp their rail down and make multiple cuts at a shallower depth. If this works for you without the burning then you know that it is the blade type. The universal blade might be a better solution.
I am going to assume that you have tried adjusting the speed control on the saw. Speed and speed of moving the saw can ease the strain on the saw. Finally, the toe in of the saw might be slightly off. The blade is designed to be not exactly parallel to the guiderail, but rather have the rear of the blade a tiny bit further away from the rail than the front of the blade. My saw was out of adjustment and was burning, but I was able to adjust it. Unfortunately we do not have that model saw here at the current time and I can't point you in any direction for how to adjust the toe in on that model.
Best of Luck!
Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Peter Parfitt
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« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2012, 10:17 AM » |
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Peter is spot on about using the right blade. I only use the fine (48 tooth) blade for cross cutting and man-made boards. I have a Universal blade for ripping and it really does make a difference. Before I got this blade I did some ripping and found that I often got a little burn and the saw struggled. The toe-in bit is new to me but sounds important.
Someone above mentioned the adjustments (green knobs) to take the slack when it runs on the guide rails. These are dead easy to adjust and you must check this when you get a new saw and every few months of use.
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2012, 10:44 AM » |
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For anyone following this thread who has at least the TS-55 or 75 and doesn't already have a copy of the Supplemental Manual for the TS saws here is a link. I assume that much of this information will also apply in concept to the TS-55R but not all. For a discussion on toe in - go to page twelve and the part about using a business card or paper as a gauge is in the portion about matching to an existing guiderail. link: TS 55 Supplemental Manual LInk - Everyone should have a copy!There is also a section on burning wood that is a point of interest. Peter |
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Logged
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Shane Holland
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Location: USA Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 5008
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« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2012, 10:44 AM » |
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Samer, I've contacted Festool Australia and asked them to get in touch with you (via email since I don't have your phone number). There are a number of things that could cause this, some of which have been mentioned. Like Peter just posted, it could also be the toe in, especially if the saw was dropped.
I would recommend that you talk to Festool to get assistance in diagnosing and fixing any potential problem. It will be covered by warranty if there is a problem.
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« Last Edit: June 18, 2012, 10:49 AM by Shane Holland »
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Greg Lock
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Location: UK Member Since: Jun 2012
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« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2012, 01:25 PM » |
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Hi
For best results try universal blade for any rip cut. If you want good clean lines then the Panther is the one as this makes your saw growl with pleasure and the strain is much less on the motor. This is the blad ei use for Maple and i get exceptional cuts.
The toe in should be .3 on full plunge across the diameter of the blade - the thickness of a business card is a good judge! If it is a toe in problem a burn mark will appear mainly on one side of the blade, probably the outside as this is under most pressure.
G.R
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Michael Kellough
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1905
Southern New York
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« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2012, 04:11 PM » |
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Samer said, "I found this saw blade on internet, my one look like this . the other side is perfect clean."  That arbor hole is too big. You got burned... |
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Shane Holland
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« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2012, 08:44 PM » |
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I was just copied on an email to you from my colleagues at Festool Australia. I'm sure they will help you resolve the issue. I'd encourage you to post again when the issue is resolved to help others.
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 70
www.DrSamer.co.nz
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« Reply #15 on: June 19, 2012, 05:07 AM » |
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Hi guys, today i changed the blade , i used 48 Tooth Laminate Saw Blade, is working good. on ts55r i did fill adjustments in the saw,it was cutting on angle of -0.5 ( but if shouldn't burn the tooth) i couldn't find the problem why the 48 Tooth fine blade was burning on outside tooth with my old ts55 i never had this problem. been working with rimu wood and ts55 for 4 years. any help will be good thanks alll. ah here is my work mate  |
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 70
www.DrSamer.co.nz
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« Reply #16 on: June 19, 2012, 05:20 AM » |
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Samer, I've contacted Festool Australia and asked them to get in touch with you (via email since I don't have your phone number). There are a number of things that could cause this, some of which have been mentioned. Like Peter just posted, it could also be the toe in, especially if the saw was dropped.
I would recommend that you talk to Festool to get assistance in diagnosing and fixing any potential problem. It will be covered by warranty if there is a problem.
Hi Shane, Thanks for that i receive email from them today . the toe is the green knobs? thanks |
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2012, 08:57 AM » |
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The green knobs are the cams that adjust how much side to side play the saw has as it slides along the guide rail. It has nothing to do with the toe adjustment. The toe is adjusted by loosening the screws that hold the saw body to the saw plate front and rear at the bevel adjustment connectors. Then loosen the bevel knobs, make the adjustment for toe as per the supplemental manual by Rick Christopherson, and tighten everything back up. Make a test cut to confirm.
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Samer
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Location: New Zealand Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 70
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« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2012, 03:59 PM » |
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The green knobs are the cams that adjust how much side to side play the saw has as it slides along the guide rail. It has nothing to do with the toe adjustment. The toe is adjusted by loosening the screws that hold the saw body to the saw plate front and rear at the bevel adjustment connectors. Then loosen the bevel knobs, make the adjustment for toe as per the supplemental manual by Rick Christopherson, and tighten everything back up. Make a test cut to confirm.
Hi Ken yes i did all that thanks |
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Circular saw TS 55 R, Trimming PRECISIO CS 70, Miter saw KAPEX KS 120, Router OF 1010, MFS 700, DOMINO dowel jointer DF 500, Planer HL 850, sander ROTEX RO 150, CLEANTEX CTL 26,
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