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Author Topic: Adhesive for Corian  (Read 11285 times)
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twang120

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Location: Upstate NY
Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 39


« on: October 17, 2010, 08:48 AM »

I have a small bath vanity top with corian edge banding which I glued on with Loctite 5min epoxy.  After several months, the corian has come loose.  On the corian glue surface, there is no epoxy adhered to it.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to a better adhesive or method? 
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Guy Ashley

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Location: Northampton, UK
Member Since: Feb 2010
Posts: 662


Furniture & Cabinet Maker/Joiner


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« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2010, 08:52 AM »

Hi Twang

I would always use the Corian solid surface joint adhesive. It comes in a dual tube with Acrylic Resin and curing agent and its own adhesive applicator.

I think the last lot cost me £29 so probably about $50 to you. You should be able to buy one from any company that installs this stuff. The colour match is very good and you will a virtually invisible joint.

Guy
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Chris Hughes

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Location: Kalamazoo, MI, USA
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« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2010, 08:53 AM »

Silicon.  That's what we use in fabrication to affix backers to a slab and then the finished product to casework.  I know some fabricators that use silicon to attach undermount sinks to granite slabs.  
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Chris Hughes

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Location: Kalamazoo, MI, USA
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« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2010, 08:59 AM »

After reading Guy's post, I would amend mine to be more specific.  Silicon is not for bounding solid surface to solid surface, I would use a color matched adhesive for solid surface.  If you are bonding SS to a non SS material I have found that a two part adhesive is too hard and will fail with stress with movement.
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counterfix

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Location: Des Moines, WA
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« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2010, 11:35 AM »

I have a small bath vanity top with corian edge banding which I glued on with Loctite 5min epoxy.  After several months, the corian has come loose.  On the corian glue surface, there is no epoxy adhered to it.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to a better adhesive or method? 
joint adhesive for corian is not  available for any one who is not certified there are other joint adhesives out there but for your situation you will need to remove the edge scrape all the epoxy off clean with denatured alcohol the use a thick ca glue clamp every three inches let dry or spray activater it must be above 70 deg
when dry sand with 120 150 220 then rub 0000 steel wool
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twang120

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Location: Upstate NY
Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 39


« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2010, 01:25 PM »

Thanks All.

I will try the silocone and CA adhesives on a small leftover piece and report back.
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counterfix

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Location: Des Moines, WA
Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 132



« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2010, 02:57 PM »

Thanks All.

I will try the silocone and CA adhesives on a small leftover piece and report back.
trust me i spent twenty plus years in this industry DO NOT GLUE YOUR EDGE ON WITH SILACONE.its only used for sticking back plash to the wall and the top to the cabinets i say ca because the adhesive guns run from 40 usd to 250usd  and a ca tube well who needs an applicator Wink
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twang120

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Location: Upstate NY
Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 39


« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2010, 07:37 AM »

Update,

Used Gorilla glue CA adhesive and so far so good.  Didn't need any clamps.  Just apply and hold for about a minute.  Thanks All.
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1010 router, 1400 router, RO150 rotex, C12 Drill, TDK12 drill, TS55 Saw, midi vac, CT22 Vac, MFT3, DTS400, Trion jigsaw, new Domino, DTS400 sander
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