Author Topic: Caulking Recommendations (Read 8310 times)

GoingMyWay · « **on:** December 27, 2017, 02:55 PM »

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good white caulking? I've really mostly used Dap Alex Plus, but that stuff always seems to crack and open up after only a year or less. The caulking will primarily be used inside, but there are some large cracks on the underside of an exterior bay window that I'd also like to fill.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #1 on:** December 27, 2017, 03:27 PM »

Sherwin Williams Sher-Max

Big Strech

OSI Quad Max. (Don’t use the regular Quad inside)

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #2 on:** December 27, 2017, 03:40 PM »

Thanks for those suggestions. Did you happen to list the caulks in order of preference? The Big Stretch sounds good and it's available on both Amazon and at my local Lowes.

Curious: why should the regular Quad be used inside?

w802h · « **Reply #3 on:** December 27, 2017, 04:05 PM »

I like Phenoseal. It's a vinylester adhesive caulk. They have different colors and properly tooled the clear becomes invisible when cured, which helps me get in and out of small remodels fast (without a lot of extra painting). Also, caulk should be applied to primed surfaces (not bare wood) for a better service life. I agree that there are much better caulks than Alex Plus.

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #4 on:** December 27, 2017, 04:12 PM »

It seems like just about anything is better than Alex Plus. I regret wasting so much time cutting/scraping out the old caulk on the stair baseboard trim only to use the Alex Plus, which cracked and separated in very little time.

How is the cleanup with the Phenoseal. I think I used pure silicone caulking before and it was super flexible, but it was a real mess to try to clean up.

Cheese · « **Reply #5 on:** December 27, 2017, 04:20 PM »

Anything with the name DAP on it, I avoid like the plague. Seriously, I can’t understand how they’re still in business.

That stuff cracks and separates within 6-9 months.

I use Big Stretch for inside jobs and Vulkem for exterior jobs. Vulkem is a PITA to apply but once cured it just plain works forever. It never dries out, never hardens, never gives up its bond strength and it never loses its elasticity.

Bob D. · « **Reply #6 on:** December 27, 2017, 04:24 PM »

We use Sika Products for most stuff at work, but you might find an acrylic caulk with silicone such as that made by Loctite to your liking.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pss_seal_acws/overview/Loctite-Acrylic-Caulk-with-Silicone.htm

"Loctite Polyseamseal Acrylic Caulk with Silicone is a high quality acrylic caulk with added silicone to give extra durability and adhesion. Its fast set formulation is paintable within 30 minutes and provides a flexible seal that locks out air, moisture, dirt, dust and insects."

Should be available at local hardware or lumber yard and big box stores.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #7 on:** December 27, 2017, 04:44 PM »

Quote from: GoingMyWay on December 27, 2017, 03:40 PM

Thanks for those suggestions. Did you happen to list the caulks in order of preference? The Big Stretch sounds good and it's available on both Amazon and at my local Lowes.

Curious: why should the regular Quad be used inside?

Yes.

Quad does not recommend it due to off gassing.

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #8 on:** December 27, 2017, 04:51 PM »

Quote from: tjbnwi on December 27, 2017, 04:44 PM

Quote from: GoingMyWay on December 27, 2017, 03:40 PM
Thanks for those suggestions. Did you happen to list the caulks in order of preference? The Big Stretch sounds good and it's available on both Amazon and at my local Lowes.

Curious: why should the regular Quad be used inside?

Yes.

Quad does not recommend it due to off gassing.

Tom

Thanks!

Oops I just realized I forgot the "not." Glad you knew what I meant!

w802h · « **Reply #9 on:** December 27, 2017, 10:57 PM »

Phenoseal squeezes easily from the tube and cleans up easily with a damp (water) rag. Often the clean-up for Silicone is solvent based like Mineral Spirits.

Twoodman66 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 28, 2017, 05:43 AM »

+1 for Shermax and big stretch

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #11 on:** January 01, 2018, 01:10 PM »

Thanks for all the suggestions. I picked up a couple of tubes of Big Stretch. I haven't done the caulking yet, but I'll report back once I'm done.

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2018, 06:51 PM »

I had a couple questions before I laid down the new Big Stretch caulking:

Is it really necessary to remove the old caulk before applying new Big Stretch caulking? The old caulking is acrylic latex caulking, it's not silicone. I've heard that new caulk will not stick to new caulk, but it seems like a big waste (time and filler perspective) to pull out the old cauk.
OSI Quad Max lists its application temperature range as 0 - 140F. It's been really really cold here in Northern Virginia the past couple of days - ~10-30F, which is super cold for here. Is it safe to apply the caulking outside in these temperatures?

I attached some photos for reference. The first picture is how the cracked caulking looks on the lowest set of stairs. Second picture is a closeup of the first picture. Third picture is the caulk joint cleaned out. Fourth picture is a window sill with cracked caulking.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2018, 07:03 PM »

1) Remove the cracked caulk the best you can.

2) I'd wait-----it's to cold to bother going out there. Find something else to do indoors.

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2018, 07:11 PM »

Quote from: tjbnwi on January 02, 2018, 07:03 PM

1) Remove the cracked caulk the best you can.

2) I'd wait-----it's to cold to bother going out there. Find something else to do indoors.

Tom

Thanks for your reply!

1) The second to last picture is about as good as I can remove the cracked caulk that I can. There are so many more areas of cracked caulked that I'd seemingly spend the rest of my life trying to clean it out perfectly - only to miss many more spots.

2) Good idea - it's probably been cracked like that for 3-4++ years. I just happened to notice it now. It can definitely wait. I just thought since I was on my caulking frenzy, I might as well bang it out now.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #15 on:** January 02, 2018, 08:02 PM »

Caulk the trim.

Tom

Cheese · « **Reply #16 on:** January 02, 2018, 11:13 PM »

I know it’s a PITA to remove the caulk but that’s your best option. A narrow, very sharp chisel will be your best friend. If it’s razor sharp, it will make the task relatively easy.

I wouldn’t apply caulk outside at any temps below 40 degrees. Otherwise it may freeze rather than cure.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2018, 11:26 PM »

I find pulling works better than scraping.

Either one of these work in the pull direction.

https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-with-2-tips-63039.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RN44E6/ref=asc_df_B002RN44E65323212/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B002RN44E6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125219398&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11454573830316167952&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016209&hvtargid=pla-307905349649

I'm real lazy, I use this blade on the Vecturo;

https://www.amazon.com/Festool-500137-Vecturo-Window-1-Pack/dp/B00NG0WYSC/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1514953573&sr=8-12&keywords=festool+vecturo+blade

Tom

RKA · « **Reply #18 on:** January 02, 2018, 11:58 PM »

I use a Bosch flexible scraper blade (not the hard blade) on a multitool to remove old hardened caulk and it works like a champ along the drywall.

Cheese · « **Reply #19 on:** January 02, 2018, 11:59 PM »

For chasing narrow features these are a couple of my favorites. That said, because they are very narrow, you have to be very careful when guiding these chisels to prevent them from digging in to the adjoining surfaces. Sharp...Sharp...Sharp...that’s what’s important.

Bob D. · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2018, 04:51 AM »

Seems like the perfect job for a multi-tool/OS 400 with scraper blade.

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2018, 08:53 AM »

I've been using a utility knife (making sure to use a sharp blade), painter's 5 in 1 tool, and a couple of putty knives to cut/peel/scrape the old caulking out. Luckily this caulk isn't super old so it's not all hard and dried out. It's fairly easy to cut and pull the old caulk out. The hard part for me is trying to cut the caulking from the wooden trim side - trying to cut close, but not cut into the trim. I have managed to take a few shavings of wood trying to get a little too close.

A chisel - that's a good idea. I never considered trying to use a chisel for this.

I'd never have thought to use a multitool to remove old caulk. I mostly think of them being used to undercut a door casing/trim when installing new flooring - I guess they have a lot more uses, hence the name multitool.

jyarbrou · « **Reply #22 on:** January 03, 2018, 09:03 AM »

I usually just use a razor knife and hold it so that i'm cutting a slight back bevel on top of the trim. That way if i dig in and take a little wood, the new caulk will be filling the gap anyway. Then I come back with a the razor and use a little more finesse to clean up any residual.

I've used a multitool in the past, and for me I usually end up doing more damage than good. I have a tendency to want to go too fast.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #23 on:** January 03, 2018, 09:35 AM »

More importantly----make sure you prime the bare area before caulking.

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #24 on:** January 03, 2018, 09:39 AM »

Oh really? What happens if I don't prime before caulking?

tjbnwi · « **Reply #25 on:** January 03, 2018, 09:43 AM »

Quote from: GoingMyWay on January 03, 2018, 09:39 AM

Oh really? What happens if I don't prime before caulking?

It fails quickly.

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #26 on:** January 03, 2018, 10:02 AM »

Oh maybe that's part of my problem. I suppose the same is also true for a top coat of paint? Last time I didn't bother to paint over the caulk since it blended in fairly well to the white trim.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #27 on:** January 03, 2018, 10:10 AM »

Without primer the caulk does not bond well. I believe it is because of the rate it loses the moisture at. The tube states to apply over primed surfaces.

Top coating is up to you. I prefer top coating because it is easier to wipe dust off from the painted surface.

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #28 on:** January 03, 2018, 10:17 AM »

Reading instructions is over rated

. It never ceases to amaze me what I can learn when I go back and read the instructions later - "oh, so that's what that's for."

Now you that you mention it, the dust does seem to stick and kind of embed into the caulk.

waho6o9 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 03, 2018, 11:02 AM »

"Without primer the caulk does not bond well. "

^ True

jyarbrou · « **Reply #30 on:** January 03, 2018, 11:49 AM »

I usually strip, sand, prime, caulk, prime again, then topcoat. If the trim is in good shape I may not go with the second primer coat. I don't mind the extra time since I only do this for my own home and not for a paycheck.

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #31 on:** January 03, 2018, 11:52 AM »

Wow you go all out! I'm lazy - the only reason I'm doing is it because I hate seeing how ugly the crack is every time I walk up the steps.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #32 on:** January 03, 2018, 11:55 AM »

Quote from: GoingMyWay on January 03, 2018, 11:52 AM

Wow you go all out! I'm lazy - the only reason I'm doing is it because I hate seeing how ugly the crack is every time I walk up the steps.

Easy way out---add more Alex on top of the existing. It will hide the gap.

Tom

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #33 on:** January 03, 2018, 04:38 PM »

I will likely just caulk over some of the areas where the cracking isn't as bad with Big Stretch.

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #34 on:** February 05, 2018, 04:48 PM »

Thanks again for all the advice and suggestions.

I finally got around to applying the first round of Big Stretch Caulking. The application and cleanup was a piece of cake. The first flight of steps that I re-caulked look great to me. I'm actually really happy that I don't have to see that nasty old cracked caulk line every time I walk up the steps. Now I just need to re-do the caulking on the next 2 sets of steps/floors.