Author Topic: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?  (Read 18645 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« on: January 20, 2015, 04:09 PM »
Guys, I have two questions about a small job I have to do with some Ytong blocks (dutch: cellenbeton), maybe known to some people as Durox, and wikipedia tells me in English it's called autoclaved aerated concrete. I have little experience with this type of material and lack the proper tools.



I have to repair a plastic profile underneath a shower tub that's broken, and best option to me seems to replace it with Ytong blocks and tile it over. Unfortunately, it wasn't possible to order a new profile so I have to improvise.

211289-1

My idea is to cut 4 of these blocks so they follow the rounding and then finish it off with tiles.

So here's my first question, as always, people expect me to do these kind of jobs as economically as possible, so I was wondering what's the cheapest way to cut these blocks. I know there are saws with HM teeth for it, but buying one for just 4 blocks seems a bit overkill, and now I'm wondering if it is possible to cut them with my jigsaw and what would be the best type of blade to use.
 
Second, I need to glue the blocks to the existing tile floor, and I was wondering what the best, and again, most economical way to do this would be. I know there is special glue for these blocks, but I've heard you can also use mortar, and I was wondering if the thinset for the tiles would also work as that's a kind of mortar, isn't it? Would the blocks properly stick together and to the tiles if I used thinset?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer me.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2015, 04:31 PM by Alex »

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline neeleman

  • Posts: 1189
Re: Two little questions about Ytong / Durox concrete blocks
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2015, 04:24 PM »
You can simply use any saw and a wood rasp like the ones from Bahco.
Because the material is so soft the saw & rasp don't even get blunt from the small task you're after.
As for glue you can use the stone glue from Illbruck. Or some PolyMax Express Glue from Bison.
Assume you already have a PUR-gun.
Sorry for the big pictures. But I always use the "picture-URL" if available.

Festoolian since 1998.
FESTOOL:
SYSROCK BR10 | SYSLITE KAL II | SV-SYS D14 | DSC-AG125FH | CDD9.6 | SYSLITE DUO | DF700 | HKC55 | TXS2.6 | CTL SYS | CXS2.6 | DWC18 | CTWings | BHC18 | CS50 | CMS-OF | MFT/3 | MFT/3-VL | KS120 | TS55 R | PSC420 | PS420 | BS75 | RAS115 | RO90 | RO150 | RS400 | RTS400 | RS300 | LS130 | DX93 | ETS150/5 | ETS150/3 | OF1010 | OF1400 | OFK500 | MFK700 | T18 | EHL65 | CTL26 | CTL22 | CTL MIDI | WCR1000 | D27-AS Plug-it | D36 UNI-RS | D36x7 | D50x2.5 | FS800 | FS800/2 | FS1080/2 | FS1400/2 (2x) | FS3000/2 | FSK250 | FSK420 | Gecko Dosh | Toolie | CE-SYS-2010 | RB-SYS CART (2x) | LEV1400 | LEV350 | SYS-MFT
PROTOOL:
CHP26 | PDC18 | FLC UNI | VCP260 | DSC-AGP125 | DSC-AGP230 | DSG-AGP125 | DRP16

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2015, 04:29 PM »
Or a wet mortar mix if you fancy it. We use them in the UK for the internal walls of a cavity construction for houses and such. Any blunt hand saw will cut right through them.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Nigel

  • Posts: 641
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2015, 02:55 AM »
  Have you considered using Wedi board?

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2015, 03:03 AM »
Neeleman and Wuffles, thanks for your answers. I have two good wood saws from Bahco, but I really don't want to use them for this. I think I'll get me a cheap woodsaw for a couple of euros, should do the trick if these blocks are so soft. Using a rasp seems like a good idea.

I don't have such glue neeleman, nor a PUR gun, so that's not an option. I do have montagekit, which is very strong. I'm gonna try both montagekit and thinset for a small test and see how both perform.

  Have you considered using Wedi board?

Nigel. I didn't, no. I hadn't considered that, but it seems a bit much work to me to use it. Would require to make a frame for the boards, and the problem of how to fix the frame to the tiles. I'm going for Ytong blocks.

Offline tony_sheehan

  • Posts: 109
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2015, 03:21 AM »
I have to say, judging by your photo, I'd just replace the shower tray....

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2015, 03:40 AM »
I have to say, judging by your photo, I'd just replace the shower tray....

Perhaps, but as explained, cost matters. And it's only the plastic profile on the bottom that's broken, the rest is fine.

Offline RvB

  • Posts: 225
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2015, 05:32 AM »
Why cant you just use limestone bricks and morter? Put them up vertically.. U can even
Use the glue neeleman suggested.

Rick
ALLREADY GOT: MFT/3 - Domino XL DF 700 - Domino DF 500Q set - CS70 precisio - Kapex 120 EB set - TS 55 REBQ - TS 55 EBQ  - EHL 65EQ - PS 300 EQ - OF 2200 EB Set - OF 1010 EBQ - OFK 500Q R3 - CTL 26 E - CTL 26 SD E/A - CTL Midi - BS 75 e-set - DTS 400 EQ - ROTEX 150 FEQ - ROTEX 90 EQ - CXS Li 1,5 set - CMS OF 2200 - VS 600 - FS PA - FS SYS/2 - FS 1400/2 x2 - FS 1400/2 LR32 - FS 2700/2 - FS 1080/2 (mft/3) - FS 800/2 - FS Bag - OF-FH 2200

D 36 HW RS craftsman cleaning kit - D27/D36 portable cleaning kit - RO90 & DTS 400 abrasive sys - carpenter sys - Fein supercut sys - homemade drills&drivers sys - nailguns sys5 - SYS-ToolBox1 x 2 - SYS-ToolBox2 x 2 - Sys-StorageBox - SYS-CART RB-SYS

WORKIN' REALLY HARD FOR: ETS 150/3 - one extra DTS 400,one extra cxs, PSC 420 eq, centrotec sys, T18+3 PDC18/4, BHC 18.

Offline Rob Z

  • Posts: 707
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2015, 06:48 AM »
Alex,

I can't completely visualize what your plan is, but this is interesting to me because I have been doing bathroom remodels for the past 25+ years.  Are you going to use the new material to fill in under and inside the broken area of  the shower base, and roughly follow the profile of the outside curve of the shower base?  Or, are you going to set the new blocks outside the broken area to conceal the damage, and then cover the blocks with tile?

Either way, I think Nigel's suggestion for Wedi board is a good one. You wouldn't need to make a frame because you can laminate layers of Wedi together with thinset. The thickest Wedi panels I have bought are 50 mm/ 2", so you would only need two or three layers of Wedi to fill the area. (Maybe panels thicker than 50 mm are available in Europe?) The only downside to this is that you would end up with a good-sized piece of Wedi that wouldn't be used. 

Rob

Offline Nigel

  • Posts: 641
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2015, 07:24 AM »
  Have you considered using Wedi board?

Nigel. I didn't, no. I hadn't considered that, but it seems a bit much work to me to use it. Would require to make a frame for the boards, and the problem of how to fix the frame to the tiles. I'm going for Ytong blocks.
[/quote]

In that case you can cut them with carbide tooth saw[expensive] as you know or an angle grinder [dust!]. Alternatvely do you have plaster blocks there?In France you can get marine grade for showers and they are cheap and you can cut them with a normal saw.They are more usually used for showers than ytong/siporex for some reason.Just a thought but this Ytong/Siporex stuff is not like Thermalite[UK] blocks and a lot harder.I reckon you might struggle to cut it with a normal saw.

Alex,



Either way, I think Nigel's suggestion for Wedi board is a good one. You wouldn't need to make a frame because you can laminate layers of Wedi together with thinset. The thickest Wedi panels I have bought are 50 mm/ 2", so you would only need two or three layers of Wedi to fill the area. (Maybe panels thicker than 50 mm are available in Europe?) The only downside to this is that you would end up with a good-sized piece of Wedi that wouldn't be used. 

Rob

You are quite right Rob and it is the obvious choice as it is made for the job and so easy to use,however it isn't cheap.50 mm is the max I think.As you say you would have some left over.....
« Last Edit: January 21, 2015, 07:28 AM by Nigel »

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2015, 07:35 AM »
Why cant you just use limestone bricks and morter? Put them up vertically.. U can even
Use the glue neeleman suggested.

Rick, is there a benefit of using limestone over ytong? As for the glue, I can't even buy that stuff, I'm a hobbyist and the DIY stores don't carry that, and I'm not gonna invest in a glue gun either for such a small onetime job. The home owner wants it done as cheaply as possible.

This morning I've set up two test pieces, one with thinset and one with montagekit (sorry, don't know the English word for that, it's glue), and see how strong they are when hardened.
 

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #11 on: January 21, 2015, 07:49 AM »
I can't completely visualize what your plan is, but this is interesting to me because I have been doing bathroom remodels for the past 25+ years.  Are you going to use the new material to fill in under and inside the broken area of  the shower base, and roughly follow the profile of the outside curve of the shower base?  Or, are you going to set the new blocks outside the broken area to conceal the damage, and then cover the blocks with tile?

Yeah, I could have explained that better. The broken shower base will be trashed and I want to fill the area right under the tub so the tiles will run flush to edge of the tub.

Either way, I think Nigel's suggestion for Wedi board is a good one. You wouldn't need to make a frame because you can laminate layers of Wedi together with thinset.

I didn't know about Wedi board, but when I googled it it looks like those waterproof plaster kind of boards. The videos I saw made it look quite expensive to use, and that's not an option for the H.O. But I'll see in the store what it would cost, doesn't hurt to be informed. If you say you can laminate it with thinset, that could come in handy. 

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #12 on: January 21, 2015, 07:52 AM »
In that case you can cut them with carbide tooth saw[expensive] as you know or an angle grinder [dust!]. Alternatvely do you have plaster blocks there?In France you can get marine grade for showers and they are cheap and you can cut them with a normal saw.They are more usually used for showers than ytong/siporex for some reason.Just a thought but this Ytong/Siporex stuff is not like Thermalite[UK] blocks and a lot harder.I reckon you might struggle to cut it with a normal saw.

I got me a wood saw for 3 euros, so as you can see, I will spare no expense. [smile] Doesn't matter if it's trashed afterwards. I'll see if I can buy such plaster blocks at the DIY store. How do you glue them?
« Last Edit: January 21, 2015, 08:21 AM by Alex »

Offline Rob Z

  • Posts: 707
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2015, 08:26 AM »
Alex, maybe I understand better what your plan is.  If I follow you, you are going to remove that entire piece that serves as an apron, leaving the shower tray/shower base in place.  If so, that really makes me think the Wedi is a great choice.  If you want to tile that vertical part (the apron) that transitions from the tile on the floor to the underside of the shower threshold, then you could cut keystone-shaped pieces of Wedi and stand them in place like a soldier course of brick. Choose  a size of a piece that will closely follow the arc formed by the curb of the shower base.

Wedi is easy to cut (hand saw, jig saw, RotoZip or even a track saw with a cheap or worn  blade).

The 50 mm Wedi here is sold in panels 24" X 8' (although is might be a metric measurement close to 8' ?).  I buy both the 50 mm Wedi and 50 mm KerdiBoard, and the price is extremely reasonable compared to the amount of labor to get to the same results using framing or masonry techniques.

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5684
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2015, 09:18 AM »
I'm with Rob on the product, but I'd use bendy Kerdi in a couple of layers.

http://www.schluterkerdiboard.com

Tom

Offline NL-mikkla

  • Posts: 271
  • www.m144h.com
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #15 on: January 21, 2015, 09:40 AM »
Interesting, the thing that I fear for is that the tiles do not follow the contour of the tub due to the size.
Meaning the edges of the tiles will stick out or you have to make a weird shaped edge?

Off course when you use something like Mosaic tile sheets it won't be a problem.
But beware when you use bigger tiles like 100mm x 100mm

BTW, I think the Ytong (smallest size available is good enough) is a good choice together with the montagekit.

Offline neeleman

  • Posts: 1189
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2015, 10:09 AM »
As Alex mentioned before it has to be done cheap.
Although the first priority should be that it has to be done GOOD, because of the danger of leakage underneath the shower.
You should explain this to your client.

Wedi and Kerdi board don't come cheap and are only sold in shops for companies with a VAT number.
And the quarter round curve is not an easy task for standard Wedi/Kerdi board.
Curved forms can only be made by making grooves in the board (see photo).
Only Wedi has a special Curved Board but they don't come cheap.

Tiling a curved area with large tiles (±100 mm) is another problem.
You have to cut the tiles in smaller pieces and then the sharp sides are exposed even with grout in between.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2015, 10:19 AM by neeleman »
Festoolian since 1998.
FESTOOL:
SYSROCK BR10 | SYSLITE KAL II | SV-SYS D14 | DSC-AG125FH | CDD9.6 | SYSLITE DUO | DF700 | HKC55 | TXS2.6 | CTL SYS | CXS2.6 | DWC18 | CTWings | BHC18 | CS50 | CMS-OF | MFT/3 | MFT/3-VL | KS120 | TS55 R | PSC420 | PS420 | BS75 | RAS115 | RO90 | RO150 | RS400 | RTS400 | RS300 | LS130 | DX93 | ETS150/5 | ETS150/3 | OF1010 | OF1400 | OFK500 | MFK700 | T18 | EHL65 | CTL26 | CTL22 | CTL MIDI | WCR1000 | D27-AS Plug-it | D36 UNI-RS | D36x7 | D50x2.5 | FS800 | FS800/2 | FS1080/2 | FS1400/2 (2x) | FS3000/2 | FSK250 | FSK420 | Gecko Dosh | Toolie | CE-SYS-2010 | RB-SYS CART (2x) | LEV1400 | LEV350 | SYS-MFT
PROTOOL:
CHP26 | PDC18 | FLC UNI | VCP260 | DSC-AGP125 | DSC-AGP230 | DSG-AGP125 | DRP16

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5684
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2015, 10:51 AM »


Only Wedi has a special Curved Board but they don't come cheap.




Not true. Schluter has bendy board that is pre-grooved. I've used it more than once.

http://www.schluterkerdiboard.com

It is shown in the link I posted above. As to cost, you have to balance labor and material cost to get true cost.

Tom

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2015, 12:23 PM »
Just a thought but this Ytong/Siporex stuff is not like Thermalite[UK] blocks and a lot harder.I reckon you might struggle to cut it with a normal saw.

Really? I'm not familiar with the brand, but the description sounded like them to me. If so, you might have a problem using a normal saw [embarassed]

I'd still rip out the shower tray and start over. Regardless of the minimal extra cost over your time spent messing about.

Best of luck.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2015, 01:27 PM »
Looked at Wedi board, the brand is not available at my DIY store, but there's something like it, and it is very expensive, considering I need just a tiny bit, but I have to buy a 250 x 60 cm board for 75 euros.

Anyway, I don't see why Ytong blocks wouldn't work, they're used very much over here for bathrooms. Strong, light, cheap and waterproof. Just 4 blocks cost me 8 euro total. I just wanted to know the best way to cut and glue them. Cutting worked out nicely with the cheap wood saw, so that part is covered.

So all I need now is the right glue to glue them to the tiles, which are of course very smooth, so that might be a problem. You can use a special thinset to do tile over tile, so I was hoping I could use that to glue the blocks to the floor tiles. I've set up a test piece with thinset, and one with montagekit, a very strong glue meant for construction purposes. I've had good results with it on laminate which is also pretty smooth, so perhaps it will also work on tiles. It doesn't need to be superstrong, just strong enough that if somebody bumped into it with his or her foot it would not be damaged.

211403-0

Off course when you use something like Mosaic tile sheets it won't be a problem.

Yep, that's exactly what I'm going to use, 4x4 cm mosaic tiles. With the small size it's easy to follow the contour.

Although the first priority should be that it has to be done GOOD, because of the danger of leakage underneath the shower.
You should explain this to your client.

That's not going to be a problem. I'll use a good waterproof tile filler, and caulk the sides off with high quality bathroom caulk. By the way, the apron that was in place had no caulking at all, so water could run underneath it. But it's not a big deal because the area under the tub is also tiled.

I'd still rip out the shower tray and start over. Regardless of the minimal extra cost over your time spent messing about.

First I looked to see if it was possible to order a new apron and simply replace it. In that process, I found out what an entire new tub costs and with labour involved that would turn a €100 job into a €350 job. Quite the difference.


People, thanks again for all your input, it's a great help to me.

Offline Nigel

  • Posts: 641
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2015, 01:50 PM »
Well if you can cut them with a normal saw I say go for it.There is a special glue for those blocks but I am not sure if it would stick to tile.Perhaps a decent tile cement would do it.I have done this before with those plaster blocks I mentioned.I just made several small widths to follow the curve and then mosaic on top - there is a special plaster for them.I only mentioned Wedi cos I recently started using it and it's sooo easy and made for it - but costly.

Offline Hans Mertens

  • Posts: 128
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #21 on: January 21, 2015, 04:07 PM »
Alex,

The montagekit (MS-polymer glue) will do the job just fine.  Perfect for something like that. 
Very important to know when using Ytong is that regular cement based grout or tile glue will "burn".  The Ytong is to porosive, it "sucks" the water to fast from your grout and it will crumble.  You have to use a special primer or a special glue.

Now if I had to do that kind of a job and cost whas the main concern.  I would go for a strip of white plastic/resin board/acrylic that I would bend and glue, some scraps glued to the tiles and some bricks as dead weight to keep the strip in place until the glue sets.  20min job, €30 material and that's all there is to it.  No tile's, no grout.  To finish a bead of silicone on the edges.

All the best,

Hans

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #22 on: January 21, 2015, 04:37 PM »
The montagekit (MS-polymer glue) will do the job just fine.  Perfect for something like that. 
Very important to know when using Ytong is that regular cement based grout or tile glue will "burn".  The Ytong is to porosive, it "sucks" the water to fast from your grout and it will crumble.  You have to use a special primer or a special glue.

Yeah, I am aware of the burning effect, I was hoping that maybe making the ytong soaking wet before applying a very diluted priming layer of grout might help? Is a special primer absolutely necessary? I have already looked at it, but with all these darn DIY stores around here finding a suitable primer is a task by itself. It sucks I can't buy at good professional shops.   

Would perhaps a primer you use on plaster board before applying latex paint work? I've got that laying around. It is also meant to stop suction in porous materials.

Now if I had to do that kind of a job and cost whas the main concern.  I would go for a strip of white plastic/resin board/acrylic that I would bend and glue, some scraps glued to the tiles and some bricks as dead weight to keep the strip in place until the glue sets.  20min job, €30 material and that's all there is to it.  No tile's, no grout.  To finish a bead of silicone on the edges.

It doesn't have to be the absolute cheapest way to do it, it must be good looking and lasting also, but just for not too much.

Offline Rob Z

  • Posts: 707
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #23 on: January 21, 2015, 11:38 PM »
Alex, what I would likely do in this situation is skim coat the faces of these porous block with a fairly wet mixture of thinset or medium bed mortar, smoothing it out somewhat with the trowel and then allowing it to firm up and lose some moisture while it cured.  If you're in a hurry and need to do multiple steps in the same trip, use a rapid-set mortar (wet) and it will firm up more quickly. That skim coat will seal the porous texture of the concrete block and allow you to set the tile without the problems that would come from working over a porous substrate .  In an effort to keep costs down, you could then use the same rapid-set to bond the tiles.

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #24 on: January 22, 2015, 03:15 PM »
Alex, what I would likely do in this situation is skim coat the faces of these porous block with a fairly wet mixture of thinset or medium bed mortar, smoothing it out somewhat with the trowel and then allowing it to firm up and lose some moisture while it cured.  If you're in a hurry and need to do multiple steps in the same trip, use a rapid-set mortar (wet) and it will firm up more quickly. That skim coat will seal the porous texture of the concrete block and allow you to set the tile without the problems that would come from working over a porous substrate .  In an effort to keep costs down, you could then use the same rapid-set to bond the tiles.

Not in a hurry, I'll be doing a lot in the apartment for the next three weeks, so I can take my time.

Had a look at my test pieces today and the results were very positive. Both the thinset piece and the montagekit (glue) piece were secured pretty strong on the floor tiles. It took quite some force to pull them off the floor. These were just small pieces, so if I make the entire quarter circle with 7 cm thick ytong blocks plus a layer of thinset and tiles, I am confident it's going to be very solid.

I also test glued some pieces of ytong together, one pair with thinset and another with montagekit. Both were so strongly connected that I could not pull them apart. So both methods will work.

211479-0

Before I applied the thinset I held the blocks under a running tap so they were saturated with water. Today, I could not detect any burning or crumbling, it worked great. The bond was very strong.

I am confident now I know the right way to do this. Also found me some primer so I'll be using that too.

Thanks for all your help, I'll post my progress over time.
« Last Edit: January 22, 2015, 03:21 PM by Alex »

Offline Pixel

  • Posts: 133
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #25 on: January 25, 2015, 04:37 AM »
The plastic panel around a bath or shower tray are there for a purpose, they are called access panels, designed as such to gain access to the drainage system.

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #26 on: January 25, 2015, 07:08 AM »
The plastic panel around a bath or shower tray are there for a purpose, they are called access panels, designed as such to gain access to the drainage system.

Not really, their main purpose is to make it look nice and offer a cheap way to finish it all off. It does leave the convenience of access in case maintenance is needed.

But in no way is it a rule you have to have an access panel, many tubs don't have one. And some do, a matter of choice. If a drainage system is installed properly the chance of leakage is minute.

Anyway, I was thinking of making the last block on the right removeable to be used as an access panel.   

Offline Pixel

  • Posts: 133
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #27 on: January 29, 2015, 09:20 AM »
The plastic panel around a bath or shower tray are there for a purpose, they are called access panels, designed as such to gain access to the drainage system.

Not really, their main purpose is to make it look nice and offer a cheap way to finish it all off. It does leave the convenience of access in case maintenance is needed.

But in no way is it a rule you have to have an access panel, many tubs don't have one. And some do, a matter of choice. If a drainage system is installed properly the chance of leakage is minute.

Anyway, I was thinking of making the last block on the right removeable to be used as an access panel.

It is no way a rule, you're right, but it is designed to gain access to serviceable parts.

Qualified tradesmen follow a "code of practice" no matter what trade they are in, and in plumbing a plumber never blocks off what is effectively their access for future repairs.

Drain outlets from showers, baths and sinks are, by default, serviceable items. Because of the nature of the things, plastic, resin or fibreglass acts differently to metal when heated and cooled, despite improvements to perishable seals between these products, defects do appear over time so following a code of practice allows access to these parts.

I smiled to myself when I read your response to my first comment because I heard you say, "stuff never though of that" and your response of leaving the last block loose also brought up images of you trying to tile a "floating block big enough for access with mosaic tiles.

John Wayne once said in a film "where have all the cowboys gone".

I think I know the answer.


Offline Nigel

  • Posts: 641
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #28 on: January 29, 2015, 12:26 PM »
  It's an interesting viewpoint Pixel and I might agree if I did not know the truth at least in my part of France.These items are routinely blocked in and rarely have any problems.I agree with Alex if properly installed there are generally no problems.I suppose it might be wise to leave access but I have not seen one as yet in France in 15 years.Baths are of course a different story and usually have access.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2015, 12:31 PM by Nigel »

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5695
Re: How to cut and glue Ytong / Durox concrete blocks?
« Reply #29 on: January 29, 2015, 01:38 PM »
Qualified tradesmen follow a "code of practice" no matter what trade they are in, and in plumbing a plumber never blocks off what is effectively their access for future repairs.

Well, if that's how they do it, why do I encounter lots and lots of baths and showers without any access to the drainage pipes? I sure can't access it in my own house, and the tub's been installed there for 80 years now without leaking one drop.

I smiled to myself when I read your response to my first comment because I heard you say, "stuff never though of that" and your response of leaving the last block loose also brought up images of you trying to tile a "floating block big enough for access with mosaic tiles.

John Wayne once said in a film "where have all the cowboys gone".

I think I know the answer.

I don't care about what answers you make up in your mind about cowboys. I don't like you and I don't value your opinion. You have a tendency to troll people on purpose, and to be confrontational without reason, and that's just not how we role here. Here we are used to treat eachother with respect and those who don't don't stay around for long.

Btw, what does "stuff never though of that" and  "floating block big enough for access with mosaic tiles." exactly mean? Your english is breaking up, Pixy.