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Author Topic: Laminate Counter tops  (Read 8003 times)
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Paul W.

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« on: December 14, 2011, 10:06 AM »

After the edge trimmer I've always finished off with a file.

I'm new to Festool. Have a RO90 and RO125, instead of a file has anyone tried sanding the edge?

If so what abrasive and grit did you use?

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Sparktrician

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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2011, 01:02 PM »

For laminates, I use the MFK700 with the Amana No-File bit.  I rarely have to get out the file any more. 

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- Willy -

MFT/3 x2, TS55, Guide Rails x3, Parallel Guide Set, CT22 w/Boom Arm, CT Mini, RO90, RO125, ETS125, RTS400, RAS115.04, C12 + Centrotec Imperial Bits, CSX Set, DF500 Domino Set, SCG-10, Domino Plate from RonWen, MFK700 Set, CMS-GE, OF1010, OF1400, OF2200 Set, LR32 System, MFS System, Syslite, Systainers, Sortainers, clamps.

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mastercabman

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« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2011, 04:16 PM »

Never heard of using sand paper on laminated tops.
I always use a 7* solid carbide bevel bit.Make sure to use some kind of lubricant or it will burn the edge band.Or use a bearing bit like Sparktrician.
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I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!
Paul W.

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« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2011, 07:29 PM »

Thanks guys....ya, I've never sanded an edge either....hence the question.

The bit tips are good suggestions. I'm going to check into that further. Always used Freud laminate bits myself.

I've used an old Makita trimmer for years. This year I bought a Ridgid trimmer.....then I discovered Festool. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but should I go check out the MFK700? What are some other applications you use it for?
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RonMiller

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« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2011, 08:26 PM »

I used to make ALOT of laminate tops and the 700 is absolutely wonderful for trimming those (as well as edgebanding, etc.). While I never did, the big shops around here all sand their laminate edges - not just for tops but medical cabinets, laminate doors, etc. with a small belt sander. I've gotta believe a sander with more control but with power (e.g. the 90 or 150) would do a better job if you want to go the sanding route.
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2011, 08:36 PM »

I just did two laminate tops and after using a flush trimming bit (one piece solid carbide - no roller bearing) I used the hard Festool hand sanding pad and went over the edges with a couple of swipes with 240 grit.  I like that better than a file.

Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day.  The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy.  They also were in the minority.  Their complaint:  They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in.  I guess the truth hurts.
Paul W.

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« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2011, 09:38 PM »

I used to make ALOT of laminate tops and the 700 is absolutely wonderful for trimming those (as well as edgebanding, etc.). While I never did, the big shops around here all sand their laminate edges - not just for tops but medical cabinets, laminate doors, etc. with a small belt sander. I've gotta believe a sander with more control but with power (e.g. the 90 or 150) would do a better job if you want to go the sanding route.


I think just like a file, make sure the direction is 'down'.

I'll go check one out tomorrow, but not sure if my 5 counters a year would justify getting rid of my current trimmer. (I'm open to arguements....even if its as simple as "Yo...its green"!  Big Grin

I just did two laminate tops and after using a flush trimming bit (one piece solid carbide - no roller bearing) I used the hard Festool hand sanding pad and went over the edges with a couple of swipes with 240 grit.  I like that better than a file.

Peter

I'll try it Peter...thanks.

Question: Do you prefer to use a flush trimming bit with no bearing over one with a bearing?




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Peter Halle
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« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2011, 11:20 PM »

Personally, based on my laminate trimmer, I do.  So many of the flush trimming bits with bearings that I have tried have long shanks and that places  much of the cutting edge below what I am trimming which increases the chances of marring the bearing surface.  Based on comments here in another thread I have stopped using wax as a protectant / lubricant.  Someone posted that they use PAM.  I use a spray dry lube.  Wipes off easily.

This is the style bit I use.



Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day.  The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy.  They also were in the minority.  Their complaint:  They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in.  I guess the truth hurts.
Jeff R Johnson

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« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2011, 12:49 AM »

I used PC routers for about 15 years before i got into Festool and purchased the 700. I really can't believe the difference as the 700 is so far superior. Its precision for dialing in the bits is remarkable. I picked up a 2nd one 6 months ago. Of course I do counters for a living.

Jeff

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galwaydude18

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« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2012, 05:30 PM »

Personally, based on my laminate trimmer, I do.  So many of the flush trimming bits with bearings that I have tried have long shanks and that places  much of the cutting edge below what I am trimming which increases the chances of marring the bearing surface.  Based on comments here in another thread I have stopped using wax as a protectant / lubricant.  Someone posted that they use PAM.  I use a spray dry lube.  Wipes off easily.

This is the style bit I use.

[ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]

Peter

I have these bits but have been afraid they will burn the laminate that it runs against. Do they burn the laminate or leave mark on it? Also do they work ok with gloss laminate?
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #10 on: April 08, 2012, 07:12 PM »

Personally, based on my laminate trimmer, I do.  So many of the flush trimming bits with bearings that I have tried have long shanks and that places  much of the cutting edge below what I am trimming which increases the chances of marring the bearing surface.  Based on comments here in another thread I have stopped using wax as a protectant / lubricant.  Someone posted that they use PAM.  I use a spray dry lube.  Wipes off easily.

This is the style bit I use.

[ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]

Peter

I have these bits but have been afraid they will burn the laminate that it runs against. Do they burn the laminate or leave mark on it? Also do they work ok with gloss laminate?

I haven't used them with gloss laminate, so I can't answer that question, but I expect that they would work well.  No scratches or burns for me while using some sort of lubricant on the laminate.

Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day.  The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy.  They also were in the minority.  Their complaint:  They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in.  I guess the truth hurts.
mastercabman

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« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2012, 07:33 PM »

Personally, based on my laminate trimmer, I do.  So many of the flush trimming bits with bearings that I have tried have long shanks and that places  much of the cutting edge below what I am trimming which increases the chances of marring the bearing surface.  Based on comments here in another thread I have stopped using wax as a protectant / lubricant.  Someone posted that they use PAM.  I use a spray dry lube.  Wipes off easily.

This is the style bit I use.

[ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]

Peter

I have these bits but have been afraid they will burn the laminate that it runs against. Do they burn the laminate or leave mark on it? Also do they work ok with gloss laminate?
We used;
crisco
spray pam
lubricante for laminate
 All works well,just don't go too slow.
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I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!
Laminator

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« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2012, 09:52 PM »

Crisco is the easiest to use lubricant, I use it all the time.   The pilot should not mark high gloss laminate at all unless you go way too slow or if the edge your trimming is not a true 90 degrees.
 I have found that the pilot sometimes leaves a faint track on some matt finish laminates.   You can only see it at a certain angle with certain lighting conditions.  The track (mark) appears to be caused by an ever so slight polishing action which raised the sheen  where the pilot rubbed.
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galwaydude18

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« Reply #13 on: April 09, 2012, 08:47 AM »

Ok thanks guys. The next time I have a laminate project I'll break them out and use them. How do ye clean the lube off the laminate? Does it leave the with an oily feel
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mastercabman

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« Reply #14 on: April 09, 2012, 07:19 PM »

Ok thanks guys. The next time I have a laminate project I'll break them out and use them. How do ye clean the lube off the laminate? Does it leave the with an oily feel
We always wiped it off with a clean dry cloth and then clean the counter top with laquer thinner.
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I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!
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