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Author Topic: my sysport workbench  (Read 28712 times)
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Timtool
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« on: May 27, 2011, 01:43 PM »

i have been thinking a long time about an additional workbench, and those white and green boxes were adding up and taking up space everywhere. so i solved both problems with a new worktable specifically designed for the festool system.
as you can see the workbench in the middle has 6 systainer drawers, a space for the vacuum and a stow away area for the tools in use, so they don’t have to be on the table.



the top is a torsion box with 20mm round holes like the festool mft.
there is an oak edge with a T-track in wich the festool track clamps fit, and also vertical beams with slots for the clamps.

on the left there is another table for the systainers to come :p, those drawers can hold 2 boxes.
the drawers have oak strips on them wich block the systainers in place. they extend long enough so the systainers can be
opened.






the base is made of 18 and 12mm MDF, with a pine faceframe dominoed together. the table edge and drawer fronts are scrap oak.
the top with holes is incredibly usefull with the special clamps, i can’t believe how i did without for so long!




in the future i plan on building other things around it like a boom arm so the vacuum hose can come from above, and many other stuff, but the basics are done!


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PeterK

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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2011, 02:13 PM »

Very Nice!!!!
You have some very useful ideas. I really need to design something similar.
Thank you for posting.
Pete
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woodguy7

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« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2011, 04:15 PM »

Like the track on the front edge, that looks really usefull  Big Grin
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
Jeff Hein

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« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2011, 04:25 PM »

Very nice! I may borrow some ideas from your setup. Thanks for sharing!
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Chuck Wilson

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« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2011, 09:16 AM »

How'd you make the top??
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Kevin D.

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« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2011, 11:57 AM »

I like that T-track idea.  Thanks for sharing.
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Timtool
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« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2011, 01:16 PM »

How'd you make the top??

do you mean making the holes?
it's complex to explain, but simple in reality, and it didn't take more than 10 minutes to make them.

i first made the torsion box top wich consists of a 12mm sheet below, then a series of vertically placed mdf strips (30mm) and then a 18mm top. the top is screwed but not glued so it can be replaced.
this sandwich is virtually (almost) undeformable and is as flat as can be.




then i made a jig (in green on image) a simple piece of mdf, with strips at both ends to keep it paralel. on the jig i made a line every 96mm, all i had to do was align the centerline of my router to the line on the jig. i used a 20mm bit and i think it is pretty much ruined after making those plunge cuts.

inside the torsion box there are also beechwood blocks into wich the top and oak egde are fastened. mdf alone is not strong enough for that.


i have already discovered a flaw in the system, the torsion box is not deep enough for the festool clamps to get in the holes. i will add a T-track on the top of the oak edge aswell so i can clamp stuff on top.
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« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2011, 04:03 AM »

Great design!

I am in the middle of building a new Kapex/ Sysport Table and really like your design. I'll either use the MFT top as hole drilling jig or buy to MFT tops and cut them to fit the table!

Depending on my final design I'll either steal your T-Track idea or install the long MFT extrusion for that purpose. I didn't make a decision if the MFT extrusion would be worth the extra cost though.
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« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2011, 02:31 PM »

Very nice tidy setup,I just started using an mft and am considering how to use all the dead space under it,but I am wondering how much stuff will fall though the holes as you are working ?? I guess one could build some sort of sh**t catcher or deflector if needed.Anyway, bravo,nice setup !
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Timtool
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« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2011, 03:17 PM »

Hi Terry,
the fact that the top box is closed is a problem, but it wouldn't be better if the stuff (and dust) would fall through inside the cabinet onto the tools and systainers.
the top layer can be unscrewed should anything precious fall in, or to clean it periodically.
but the MFT top really excells at machining operations etc, but it is bad for assembly work.
that's why i do that on my assembly table with no risk of screws or hardware falling in the holes.
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« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2011, 12:58 PM »

a little update with an upgrade that id did to the bench,
i added dogholes on the vertical stiles, made with my benchtop mortiser. these allow me to rest workpieces on them.
and today it came in extremely handy.

so can your mft do this  Cool ?



i needed to rout a mortise into a tabletop, before i had this worktable i had to do this while sitting on the floor on my knees while clamping the workpiece to the legs of another furniture piece.



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« Reply #11 on: June 08, 2011, 03:19 PM »

nice clamping solutions, i may have to incorporate some of your designs
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has made the change. now 100%  T-loc Smiley
crpaulk
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« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2011, 11:53 AM »

This is a very nice setup. I really enjoy the creativity of this FOG group. I could say that great tools inspire, but I suspect already great craftsmen are drawn to good tools.

Thank You for letting us take a peek.

Ron Paulk
www.paulkhomes.com
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Alan m

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« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2011, 02:56 PM »

hthanks ron. i wont be too modest . your right . we are brilliant Wink Unsure Big Grin
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools


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« Reply #14 on: June 13, 2011, 10:29 AM »

Very nice.
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harry_

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« Reply #15 on: June 13, 2011, 12:37 PM »

Like the track on the front edge, that looks really usefull  Big Grin

+1

I see this happening in my future
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« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2011, 12:38 PM »

Did you use the Domino to cut the clamping slots on the sides of the vertical front pieces? Looks like it. Could do the same for the slots on the front of the same vertical pieces. Really nice bench.
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« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2011, 02:36 PM »

As I study these pictures, I realized this thread needs some more photos of the rest of the workshop.  I bet that shop is wonderfully organized and that there are lots of ideas there !
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Timtool
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« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2011, 03:07 PM »

Did you use the Domino to cut the clamping slots on the sides of the vertical front pieces? Looks like it. Could do the same for the slots on the front of the same vertical pieces. Really nice bench.


Yes i did, i used the 10mm cutter and cut from both sides to make a through mortise.
but the most usefull holes are the square holes in the front. i find new uses for it daily, like using them to support a board wich serves as a lowered benchtop when i'm nailing drawers. makes work alot more comfortable!

here are some pics of the workspace Nuggy, don't have any nice ones of the area with the stationary tools!
still have lots of ideas for improvements but not the time to do them all!





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« Reply #19 on: June 30, 2011, 03:32 PM »

What a nice space.  I'm impressed and a little jealous.  Thanks Timtool.

EDIT: I'm curious, what are the approximate dimensions of your shop ?
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« Reply #20 on: June 30, 2011, 04:19 PM »

What a nice space.  I'm impressed and a little jealous.  Thanks Timtool.

EDIT: I'm curious, what are the approximate dimensions of your shop ?
what you see here is the insulated part of my workshop, so i can heat it in the winter. it's quite small 5 by 4 meters.
but it sits in a 16 by 30 meter hangar. lots of space, though it's shared with a combine, 3  tractors and lots of farming equipment.
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« Reply #21 on: June 30, 2011, 07:19 PM »

Very, very nice work space Tim!
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« Reply #22 on: July 08, 2011, 01:26 AM »

Tim

Very nice set up. I have been thinking about organizing my shop in somewhat the same way. The drawer for the systainers was on my list but I do not want to lose the space behind them. Have you given any thoughts about it. The bench top, why not just use a mft3 top unstead of a torsion box?

Bruce
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Timtool
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« Reply #23 on: July 08, 2011, 02:05 AM »

Tim

Very nice set up. I have been thinking about organizing my shop in somewhat the same way. The drawer for the systainers was on my list but I do not want to lose the space behind them. Have you given any thoughts about it. The bench top, why not just use a mft3 top unstead of a torsion box?

Bruce
i don't think theres A perfect solution for the loss of space behind the systainers when placing the bench against a wall, ideally the workbench would be placed centrally so you have access all around, that way you could use the space behind for shelves or other systainers. my drawers extend right to the back of the wall, so i can still store stuff behind the systainers on the drawer but it's just not practical or necessary.
i do plan on lowering the drawers so they come just a few mm above the one below, that way i make space at the top for a normal drawer for storing sanding pads.
you need to find the right balance between comfortable top workspace, and the loss of space behind the drawers. what mattered to me was the workspace, if i was going to lose space behind the drawers was a secondary issue.

and i made my own top because the festool mft3 top is, well ridiculously expensive while easy to make for 1/5th of the cost and not the right size anyway. i chose a torsion box because i wanted it to stay perfectly flat and stable, and the bottom of the box stops the dust and chips to fall all over the systainers and the tools below. only regret is that i should have made it deeper to accommodate the clamps
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« Reply #24 on: July 29, 2011, 05:31 PM »

How'd you make the top??

do you mean making the holes?
it's complex to explain, but simple in reality, and it didn't take more than 10 minutes to make them.

i first made the torsion box top wich consists of a 12mm sheet below, then a series of vertically placed mdf strips (30mm) and then a 18mm top. the top is screwed but not glued so it can be replaced.
this sandwich is virtually (almost) undeformable and is as flat as can be.




then i made a jig (in green on image) a simple piece of mdf, with strips at both ends to keep it paralel. on the jig i made a line every 96mm, all i had to do was align the centerline of my router to the line on the jig. i used a 20mm bit and i think it is pretty much ruined after making those plunge cuts.

inside the torsion box there are also beechwood blocks into wich the top and oak egde are fastened. mdf alone is not strong enough for that.


i have already discovered a flaw in the system, the torsion box is not deep enough for the festool clamps to get in the holes. i will add a T-track on the top of the oak edge aswell so i can clamp stuff on top.


Great idea Tim!

If a person had the 32mm rails and system it would be even quicker.  Put a stop block on the bottom and then just go every 3rd hole (3x32mm = 96mm) then you you have to do is move the rail 96mm or spin it 90 degrees and line it up and dang you are spot on.

Tim, if you don't have a MFT I can measure the distance they have it set for, when it is set on the floor or on top of a flat top.  Let me know if that would be of help.  I would think that some here have that measurement memorized.

Cheers,
Steve
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« Reply #25 on: August 09, 2011, 01:21 PM »

little update with some upgrades,
i squeezed the systainer drawers closer together to make more space above them for some extra drawers.

on the right i added this drawer to store 6 of the most used sandpapers, well i don't have any more actually. it's more practical than keeping them in the boxes in a cabinet or on a shelf.


this is Cannelle, my new shop dog. the one seen in the first post passed away a month ago at 17


and on the left i had less space due to the sys 3 and 2's, so i made a shallow drawer ideal for storing screws. this way i can keep an eye on my screw stock and refill before i run out.


the kapex was perfect in making the slots in the dividers so they slide together.
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« Reply #26 on: October 18, 2011, 02:14 PM »

very nice. can you tell me where to pick up the 20 mm bit you used to drill the holes. thanks
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« Reply #27 on: October 18, 2011, 05:12 PM »

NICE shop. Cool dog
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« Reply #28 on: October 18, 2011, 09:54 PM »

Lee Vally sells forsner bits in metric. I recently bought a 20 mm for drilling a custom mft and it worked great.
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« Reply #29 on: October 18, 2011, 10:11 PM »

Tim,

I am sorry for your loss.  Last year I lost faithful friends of 16 and 18 years.

Congratulations on a new friend.  The image shows a lot of promise. Thumbs Up

What a great setup!  If I ever get a shop setting I am going to copy some of your ideas!

Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day.  The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy.  They also were in the minority.  Their complaint:  They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in.  I guess the truth hurts.
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