Limey556:

you need the Hettich Drilljig VB. I have long searched for the best and cheapest way to drill those Hettich VB Fittings and I think this is the best choice.

http://web2.hettich.com/hbh/Start.do?localeId=EN&itemId=20166

unfortunately I couldn't find a dealer for the Drilljig VB, but Woodstocksupply offers the one for Euro Hinges for $187 and the VB is usually the same price:

http://www.woodstocksupply.com/hinge-drilling-jig-47303-hettich.html

Maybe they can help?

I have just used it to build a "Guido" closet and it was much easier than using two routers with two bits as Guido did. If you need to buy the 20 and 10 mm router bit and the rest of the equipment you probably still have to add a liitle bit more cash for the Drilljig (should be $180 or so), but if you don't have two routers anyway, the Drilljig will be much more convenient. It is also adjustable for the different sizes of the Hettich VB Fittings. Be sure to get the proper VB fitting for the thickness you're working with.

For any kind of built in I would recommend this fitting, since it was very fast and easy to assemble and the whole closet seems extremely rigid.

Festoller:
Great info, and thanks for the link to Wood stock supply.
Tim

Terry:
I know that Wood stock supply has the Hettich DrillJjib VB so you should be able to get it there. Hopefully I didn't buy the last one.
I am a big fan of the LR32 system, and it's really why I started using Festool in the first place. It works flawlessly.
I don't have the 1400 (plan on buying one) so I can't comment on that, but I love the 1010. It's light, and easy to manage reaching across a wide board.
Obviously the best way to use it is to keep to 32mm increments in your sizes but I have used imperial measurement and as long as you mark the rail for the proper hole alignment you are good to go. There are some great tutorials here on FOG.
I can't remember if the Guido builds a back on his cabinets or not and the video isn't working for me.
 The closet inserts that I have built hang on a cabinet suspension system which you might also want to look into depending on your approach.

Tim

That Hettich VB Drill Jig is $380.00 CDN from Robert Bury Supply, they have one in Canada, I think the guy I talked said it was in Montreal.

John

Tim:

I don't think so, at least I havn't heard anything in Germany about it.

For the Guido clostet I used the Hettich Sensys Hinge, which is a great evolution from average Euro Hinges. They look very clean and well designed for a hinge and the selfclosing feature is spectecular. I will never use a different brand again.

http://web2.hettich.com/hbh/Start.do?localeId=EN&itemId=9071239

Terry:
Here is a page showing a picture of the Hafele system which is exactly the same as the Hettich suspension system.

 CabinetSuspensionFittings.pdf (82.4 KB - downloaded 241 times.)



As the document says these are aluminum or steel rails, available in any size with a profile much like a z clips into which the hanger hooks onto. Essentially you fasten the rail onto the wall (into studs) and then hang the cabinet on the rail. Saves putting a back on the cabinet particularly if this is going to be used in a closet that already has doors on it or in situations where the wall serves as the back of the cabinet.
Hope that helps.
Tim

Hey guys this is my first post on the FOG, but I am so impressed with this project I am putting together the materials to build one. Does anyone have a USA source for the panel connectors used in the video. I think they are RAFIX fittings. Thanks.

great videos but I dont like the way he drills out the handle holes on doors and drawers. Just drilling through with no scrap on the reverse, good way to get ugly blow out , I always hold a scrap of timber on the back when I drill out handles.

Interesting videos.  I've been a professional cabinetmaker for 15 years and learned a few tricks!  We use RTA fittings all the time but we also have a half million dollars worth of saws and CNC machining centers.  A few things in the video did make me smile and wonder,

1.  The edgebanding on the doors and drawer fronts seems to magically appear.  No mention is made of it's application.  I find myself wondering if there is a $30,000.00 Holzher edgebander just off camera.

2.  The gaps on the fronts are VERY good.  Nice work Guido!!  That makes me think that some (a lot of them anyway) are cut on some type of commercial panel saw.

I really enjoyed watching the videos.  Thanks for posting them.

Ted Pancoast
President
Ted Pancoast Woodworking
tedpancoastwoodworking.com

1/4" white melamine should be widely available.  Where in the world are you?   As far as the tape, ironing on white melamine tape is a pain.  You have to get the temperature just right.  Too hot and you'll melt the tape.  Not hot enough and the glue won't bond.  You'll have better luck with a hot air edgebander of some type.  A full blown hotmelt edgebander is the best option for pvc and polyester banding. 

If you are shopping at the Depot, you should be able to get some melamine faced hardboard that is about 1/8-3/16" thick that would be considerably easier to install than a full 3/4" back.  Regarding the edge banding, make sure you buy from a cabinet supply or online.  Don't be tempted by the big box edgebanding, it is very thin and friable.

I'm considering making some version of these, too, and am thinking the same thing - 16" depth to fully use the sheets.  Looking at the drawers supporting the systainers, he uses a deep block of wood to hold them in place.  They could easily be almost two inches shorter.  In other threads where people have built their own sysports, I think some people use 14" slides, which should easily fit in a shallower cabinet.  I don't know if you'd be able to keep the lids open in that case, though.

My German isn't so good, so I haven't read the article, just looked at the pictures.  Maybe a lot of the waste goes towards making the drawer sides.  Looks like the drawer sides are 15mm instead of 19mm, but it's a possible use of the waste if you want to follow the depth dimension exactly.

An alternative that I'm thinking about is to build 4' upper cabinets with rolling sysports underneath.  Size the sysports to match the height of my MFT/3 so they could be used for material support.  Should be somewhere around 7' to the top instead of 8' - I'm just average height, so there's no way I'd be able to reach the upper part of the 8' cabinets without grabbing the stepstool.