Author Topic: Blade burn mark on off cut  (Read 5034 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline bevans

  • Posts: 85
Blade burn mark on off cut
« on: February 15, 2017, 04:09 PM »
I recently removed the blade from my TS 55 to clean off pitch build up. When I replaced the blade (60 tooth) and made a cut using the rail as I  always do on my mft/3  I had to push the blade through the material a little harder than normal. I also smelled the dreaded wood burn. When I looked at the off cut material (3/4 oak) I noticed the burn mark that started about 4" into cut off. The good piece (left of the rail) has no burn marks. Removing the blade is the only change made on the saw. What could be the issue? What can I do to correct the issue?

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Online #Tee

  • Posts: 773
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2017, 05:23 PM »
how long have you been using it and what have you been cutting with it? most likely dull carbide, ive been thru the stock blade ....id cut everything from mdf,alum, carbon fiber sheets, ply,walnut, and oak. it took a nice beating and ive noticed the harder push as time went on and some burning on ply. tenryu has a nice replacement for it.
When youre feeling depressed just treat yourself to a systainer even if its a mini systainer its ok.

IG: tee212

Offline bevans

  • Posts: 85
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2017, 05:38 PM »
I've had the blade/saw for about 3 years and cut mostly oak and walnut with occasional ply. It is likely dull now but was a little concerned that I did not get burning before and only notice it on one side of the cut. I will get a new blade and see if it continues. Thanks for the reply.

Offline antss

  • Posts: 1306
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2017, 06:34 PM »
Who makes a 60t blade for the ts55 ?  That's a lot of teeth on a 160mm dia. blade.  [blink]

You were crossctting the oak , correct ?

Offline bevans

  • Posts: 85
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2017, 07:35 PM »
Oops...I was wrong on the teeth count. It's only 48 and it is what came on the saw. I do mostly crosscut but also have done some ripping. The issue noticed now was with cross cutting a piece of oak.

Offline rst

  • Posts: 1538
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2017, 08:56 PM »
I use 56 tooth AGE aluminum/plastics blades for my 55, 75, and Kapex...but not for ripping oak. 
Toolstoday has a wide range of Amana and AGE track saw blades for both the 55 and 75.  I use Anana's Electroblu coated blades in my Makita 10 and 14" chopsaws and the edges cut so clean that I seldom have to file or sand.

Offline antss

  • Posts: 1306
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2017, 09:02 PM »
Ripping solid stock with a 160mm  - 48t blade is a non starter.   You should expect burning doing that.

On the crosscut so my bet is that your blade is just dull.  You could also have a slight toe in/out on your saw to track relationship.  Check your blade to bottom plate relationship to be sure it's at 90deg. while you're at it too. 

Amana makes some nice blades, but as I recall most or all of them are thicker than the Festool standard 2.2mm kerf. Which adds time and expense for the guide rails to the process of swapping blades. 
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 09:10 PM by antss »

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3483
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2017, 09:32 PM »
I recently removed the blade from my TS 55 to clean off pitch build up. When I replaced the blade (60 tooth) and made a cut using the rail as I  always do on my mft/3  I had to push the blade through the material a little harder than normal.

That doesn't make much sense, you removed the blade from the saw because you wanted to clean the pitch buildup, and the saw was functioning properly before the cleaning operation.  Yet, after the pitch cleaning operation the saw was more difficult to use and required extra force.
I think it may be more an alignment problem of the saw and rail or the saw and blade.

Offline mwildt

  • Posts: 357
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2017, 10:23 PM »
Did the speed control get touched by mistake ?
Did you put the blade on backwards, sorry had to ask 😀

Offline Jimdude

  • Posts: 29
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2017, 05:21 AM »
I think it may be more an alignment problem of the saw and rail or the saw and blade.
Yes, this. Especially because the burns start at 4" in, i.e. roughly when the axle passes the edge of the wood.

There might just be some alien material between the blade and the saw. Don't ask how I know this can happen easily.

Offline Birdhunter

  • Posts: 1952
  • Woodworker, Sportsman, Retired
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2017, 05:38 AM »
I sometimes get burning even on my big SawStop table saw if the wood has some degree of bowing or curling that would cause it to exert pressure against the blade.

This case sounds like a combination of a dull blade and some form of misalignment causing too much friction against the side of the blade.
Birdhunter

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5169
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #11 on: February 16, 2017, 09:12 AM »
Remove the blade, check to see if something got on the mounting surfaces. Reinstall the blade making sure it's in the proper direction and properly seated. Make a test cut, hopefully the problem is gone.

Get another blade either way, send the original out to be sharpened.

Tom

Offline Job and Knock

  • Posts: 76
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2017, 04:11 PM »
3 years? Mine average 3 months at times! (but that is trade work, so.....)

I aleays have a couple of spare blades to hand, though, and several times during the life of a blade I'll take it off the saw, treat it with pitch and resin remover then return it. The other thing is that some timbers (notably beech, maple and sycamore) seem much more prone to scorching in "thin" blades - blades which have been reground a few times and where the kerf has been reduced soimewhat by the grinding process.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2017, 04:14 PM by Job and Knock »
Simplicity is the embodiment of purity and unity
- Shaker Maxims

Offline bevans

  • Posts: 85
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2017, 12:09 PM »
Well, I replaced the blade with a new one and it cuts through oak and walnut like butter. There was no foreign matter between the blade and mounting surface when using the old blade. I never noticed burn marks before but maybe I just wasn't observant. Thanks for those of you that responded. I will send the old blade out for sharpening.

Offline Job and Knock

  • Posts: 76
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #14 on: February 20, 2017, 01:34 PM »
When you start using it again don't forget to "bump" the anti-splinter strip acress
Simplicity is the embodiment of purity and unity
- Shaker Maxims

Offline Birdhunter

  • Posts: 1952
  • Woodworker, Sportsman, Retired
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #15 on: February 20, 2017, 02:48 PM »
"When you start using it again don't forget to "bump" the anti-splinter strip acress"

What does this mean?
Birdhunter

Offline Job and Knock

  • Posts: 76
Re: Blade burn mark on off cut
« Reply #16 on: April 01, 2017, 03:23 PM »
"When you start using it again don't forget to "bump" the anti-splinter strip acress"
What does this mean?
Festool blades (on the TS55) have a standard kerf of 2.2mm. When a blade is sharpened, that kerf reduces slightly which means that a gap between the side of the teeth and the anti-splinter strip will start to open-up. To avoid this when I have blades sharpened (generally a batch of 6 or 8 blades) I unpeel the anti-splinter strip very carefully and restick it about 1 to 2mm further across and reattach it before making a first trimming cut. I can get 3 to 5 uses out of my splinter strips that way, although it is sometimes necessary to reattach the anti-splinter strip with double-sided adhesive tape. sorry, Festool, but replacing he anti-splinter strips on all my rails every 3 months or so is just another on-cost that I can avoid, so I do
Simplicity is the embodiment of purity and unity
- Shaker Maxims