Make sure u can break it down and take it with you if you move !

I guess most of the information is in this post:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/%27chaos-theory%27-new-how-to-video-from-guido-henn-on-festool-de/?all

but if you have specific questions just post it here.

i picked up the drill jig here.  
http://www.woodstocksupply.com/connector-drilling-jig-20166-hettich.html
i found rafix connectors pretty cheap on ebay.

A better solution would be to switch to full extension 14" slides.  Going over 16" deep would probably double your sheet goods  as you need approx 16" of width depending on the slides used.  At 16" deep you can get 2 sides, top, bottom, center divider, and another shelf per sheet.

You can buy 10 packs of 14" full extension slides for $65 on Amazon.

Hey Tim, good point on the T-locs.  For a T-loc to have full opening of the lid with the latch up uses 405mm.  The minimum clearance needed for the lid to open is 330mm. A 14" full extension slide gives you 355mm, or 380mm with 1" over travel.

Btw the $65 price I listed in the previous email is for 10 pair of 14" slides with 1" over travel. You can get them directly from Gliderite for $33.90 plus shipping.

I am building a shorter version of the "Guido wall". Today I was doing most of the cuts and used the LR 32 stop flags to do repetitive cuts. It permitted to cut the time in half for the cuts. This came from a you tube video

How to use the Festool LR 32 System in Center of Panel

Rookie08 thank you for the list of material. My local dealer only had a 1/3 of what I needed and was not going to be restock for another 2 weeks.

Tomorrow is LR32 day and hopefully assembling the first cabinet if I didn't screw up.

Bruce

Hi fritter63 and anyone else building the chaos wall,

you are right, you can't open the lids of the systainers completly to 90º. If you like to do so, you have to switch to full extension drawers or - like you have suggested - use the next lenght of the drawer slides (450 mm) and make the cabinet deeper.

If you have a lot of old Systainer, you normaly won't have any trouble with this, because the lids are not so "smooth" than the lids of the T-Locks, they will stay open also in 80º position, like you can see on the photos below. Also the upper first row of drawers, dont make any problems although this lids can only be opend about 75º, because they are stoped by the 19 mm thick drawer front. But with the T-Lock systainer you have no chance, they will always fall down.

For me this is no problem and after more than half year using the "chaos wall" (funny term), I found out that this could be an advantage, because the lids (of the T-Locks only) are always closed an no dust can get into the systainers, and for getting things out an in, its for me handy enough. When I store the T-Lock in my wall, I also take of the front lock knob, because thats makes it more quick an easy to get things out an in. But nevertheless if I will find out that I need this feature, I would switch to fully extension slides. I think this is more useful than a deeper cabinet.

I hope this could help you a little bit, if somone have further questions let me know ...

Best regards

Guido

hi sancho,

I am sorry, but my website was not updated for a longer time.

Here are some links to my latest videos on youtube:

1. Making round tenons with the cms routing module ( sure you can use any router table  ):

Festool - Runde Zapfen anfräsen

2. An articel teaser video on building a shoe cabinet with finger joint hinges (I have wife and daughter so you all can imagine that this is a "great project"), and here is the video:

Viel Stauraum für noch mehr Schuhe!

3. Two teaser videos on building a "premium router table", I think it was discussed here in another thread:

Der beste Frästisch aller Zeiten ?!

and the second part:

Voller Einsatz für den Premium-Frästisch!

In April there will be a new video on using the bandsaw with some clever selfmade jigs, you can watch it on the "holzwerken" channel, here is the link:

http://www.youtube.com/user/HolzWerkenTV/featured

Hope you all like the videos and if you have questions let me know.

Enjoy it and best regards

Guido

 

LOL! Is that the lid from a bulk pack of CDs/DVDs that you're using for the clear guard over the router bit?

Please stop making everything look so easy... my wife might get the wrong impression about my productivity.

Oh great, now I have to pick up some of those Rosetta Stone DVDs so I can learn German.  Will it never end?!?

Hi Bruce,

the height of the sidewalls is 2750 mm and the height of the doors is 1392 mm, so the height of the sytainer area and the two drawer front rows under the doors is 1358 mm. That is for me maximum, because I want to see and get out things comfortable. A basketball pro can vary the height

If the depth of a cabinet is more than 450 mm you should use one more rafix connector in the middle of the board, so you have to make a third row of 32 mm holes in the middle of the sidewalls. But you should keep in mind that more depth also means less overview in the cabinet, when you store smaller things. For the systainers more depth is not necessary. I would not make a cabinets depth more than 620 mm.

By the way - I gave the german text of the video to Festool-Germany to translate it in english. I dont know how far they are, but as soon I will get it back, I will make an english voice over.

Regards Guido

Hi James,

the best way to get a perfect template is to start with Pos. 1 the 9 mm thick plywood template (500 x 230 mm). Mark all holes with long straight lines across the whole template you need this lines later. Use your drill press with a fence to align the holes in a straight row. Start with the smaller 17 mm holes (here for a 17 mm guide bush for german routers) if you dont have a 17 mm guide bush use the next near available in inch with a perfect matching forstner bit. The center of the hole should be "about" 121,5 mm. Dont worry when the center is 121 or 122 mm from the long side of the 9 mm template board but take care that both holes are in a line or row (dont know the right term). The distance between both holes should be "about" 154 mm. To get this perfect use a left and a right stop block on your drill press. So for now you have a left and a right stop and a long fence mounted on your drill press. Dont move these stops and the fence to make the other two bigger holes (30 mm or what ever you have in inch) but put a 32 mm scrap piece against the long fence to move the template abolutely parallel to the first two holes. Dont try to move the fence, because its nearly imposible to get it absolutly parallel moved!!!

Now you have all holes perfectly parallel aligned to the side edges of your template board. Next step is to make and mount the fence bords Pos. 2 and 3. Start with the easy to make fence board Pos. 2 (500 mm x 80 mm x 18 or 19 mm plywood). Mounting this on the template is a little bit tricky because the offset between the center of the bigger holes and the fence must be exactly 9,5 mm (not 10 and not 9!!!). This very important because the rafix need a hole wich is open on the edge of the board and you get no opening with 10 mm and a too big opening with 9 mm offset. The best method is try and error and first only use two screws to mount the fence.

Next challenge is the fence in the middle of the template, which separates the left and the right holes. Now first you have to measure "your" distance between the holes. If it is perfectly 154 mm you can make a 80 mm wide fence, if it is e.g. 153 mm you have to make the fence only 79 mm wide (37 mm left + fence width + 37 mm right). You see you can only vary the width of the fence and you have to stick perfekt to 37 mm left/right!!!

Mounting this fence is the same tricky like the longer fence, so use the try and error method and move it when necessary and fix it again with screws. Keep in mind its a template not a furniture masterpiece, it has to work perfect but need not look perfect   

Hope you could understand what I mean, its not so easy to explain this in english ... otherwise ask again

Good luck and best regards

Guido

is there a set of plans for this with dimensions, cutlist and complete parts list. I'm new to woodworking and this would be a good start project for my garage.

Thanks, Bruce that helps a whole lot.  I can read it, I spent 17 years in Europe in the Military.

Height of the sidewalls is 2750 mm.  Is this correct?  I thought the panels come in 48 x 97.