Author Topic: circle cutting jig for the carvex (ruining all of my work to date with it)  (Read 5850 times)

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Offline Woodhack

  • Posts: 25
    • Some of my painting (no festools then) work until my website is done
Hate, hate, hate the metric tape of course and the fact that they dont make it for us who buy the stuff in the USA and dont want to use the metric system. This is my biggest Festool complaint. It KILLS my already slow workflow.

Anyway. I have not been able to cut a circle that didnt look like I cut it with an ice cream scooper yet. The one circle I cut that actually resembled a circle had a taper in it. Sort of like I cut a cork shape out of the half inch a c plywood. I would post a picture but, last time I tried to do a review (positive) of my Ro90 all of my stuff (pictures and text) got deleted when I hit save draft plus getting the pics where I wanted them on the page was also impossible.

Yes I have seen the new brit workshop video from the 8 minute mark. It really hasnt helped much.

To date I have lost money every time I used this tool just trying to cut circles in plywood. I have searched for info from Festool. No luck.

Where can I find detailed info on:

1: How to convert whatever the metric numbers on the ruler are to something I understand and want to use that will be accurate?

2: What side of the tool to put the pivot pin in relative to the saw and WHY I would put it there.

3: What is the purpose of being able to attach the saw and pivot pin on different sides and use in different directions? Beginners just dont KNOW this stuff!

4: This seems really basic and stupid but, I just cant find info.

Lets say I want an 11 inch hole from side to side in a piece of plywood that I would be sliding a bucket into.

I say to myself.. hey Woodhack.. youve got the handy dandy Festool circle cutting jig and all youve got to do to make that circle is??????

fill in the blank ________________



I know Festool is busy but, if you go through the effort to make those videos that just show the tool magically cutting circles while the guy with the ironed shirt is smiling away why wouldnt you make one of someone taking it out, setting it to the proper measurement to get the proper sized circle and so on??? I know explaining how to use your tools sounds like a bit of work but, we pay a fortune for the stuff. How about some directions?
I sipped the green kool-aid as a painter and started with:
RTS 400 EQ, RO 90, and ct 26 with WCR 1000 on top. I now have the Carvex PS 420 with accessory kit, FS 1400/2 LR32 guide rail. Ts 55, 0f 1400, 2nd ct 26, sys roll,

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Offline antss

  • Posts: 1374
11" X 2.54 = 27.9 cm

Set you circle cutting jig to that and have at it.

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1939
Also, try cutting the opposite direction. Sometimes the blade lock mechanism in the Carvex interferes with the circle jig.

Cheers. Bryan.


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People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Shane Holland

  • Festool Dealer
  • *
  • Posts: 10126
    • The Tool Nut's Festool Store
The pin goes on the same side as the blade. Basically, the pivot point and blade are aligned in this configuration. If you put the pin on the other side, it would try to cut (probably) an oval, which isn't possible.

There are locations for the pin on both side of the circle cutter because depending on whether you are cutting clockwise or counter-clockwise, the pin would be on one side or the other.

And, the circle cutter is available in imperial (inches) now.

Check out the video below, start at the 8 minute mark.



You should be able to find a handy dandy metric to imperial conversion calculator online. Or, just Google "11 inches to centimeters", or whatever your measurement, and Google will give you the answer.

Shane
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 10:04 PM by Shane Holland »
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Offline fignewton

  • Posts: 65
  • "Fine Quality Sawdust"
When I first tried to use mine, I kept thinking, "what am I doing wrong?". I was tryint to cut a circle in a panel to drop my small dust deputy in for a rolling platform for the vac and DD.  I practiced on some scrap plywood.  Like you, I watched all the videos several times, and they all made it look so easy.  My first tries had me ready to throw it away. Knowing it wasn't supposed to be that way, I kept trying.
What I found was key was making the first part of the circle cut by hand after drilling my entry hole for the blade.  I found that I had to cut enough of the arc to let the blade sit correctly with the jig.  If I didn't cut enough, the jig wanted to push out and it would pull the pin out of the center circle hole. I cut counter-clockwise, holding the pin down in the center with my left hand, and barely pushing the back of the Carvex (barrel grip).  Let the saw do the work rather than trying to drive it around.  The circle came out perfect.  Hope you get it figured out.
TS55, MFT3+, OF1400, C12, CT-26, LR-32 system, Domino 500, RO125, MFK 700, Carvex w/ accsy, Sys-roll,  CXS, Kapex, UG with extensions, RO90

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 3972
If you are within your 30 day window, then you can return it and get a proper saw with Imperial markings.

If not then what accuracy do you need? You could put a few marks where you need them for various sizes using a dremel.

The modern tape measures have dual scales so you could measure in Imperial, and then like a "decoder ring" get the secret metric to set teh saw with.
I have a Fastcap that I am quiet fond of.

Offline antss

  • Posts: 1374
Hey Holmz - no inch or cm scale on the jigsaw  [doh]

The circle jig has the measurements and strictly speaking it's an accessory and doesn't fall under the 30 day policy.  Your dealer would probably take back though.

Offline Woodhack

  • Posts: 25
    • Some of my painting (no festools then) work until my website is done
Been too long since I could hop back on here. Foot troubles dragging me down. Thanks to those trying to help.

On my next attempt I will make sure I have the pin in the same side as the blade. I don't know if I did that or not. The cutter came with the base set kit or whatever you call it and I would really just like to be able to use it and use it quickly...I don't usually return things and if they bother me enough I run the sawzall through them or destroy some other way. I guess its gonna be more practice runs before I try something important.

I will post if I make any progress.

WH

I sipped the green kool-aid as a painter and started with:
RTS 400 EQ, RO 90, and ct 26 with WCR 1000 on top. I now have the Carvex PS 420 with accessory kit, FS 1400/2 LR32 guide rail. Ts 55, 0f 1400, 2nd ct 26, sys roll,

Offline Getmaverick

  • Posts: 81
I agree with the metric tape, but it is what it is. I just measure from the pin to the blade center. I've made a habit of running a pencil line for confirmation prior to cutting.

Offline mikeyr

  • Posts: 57
This is not really help, but try going metric.  When I got my first Festool just before Christmas, I had a problem with the Metric stuff.  But I went out and bought some metric rulers and measuring tape and found that I adapted to it very quickly.  I actually find it more accurate than inches now, my whole shop is slowly converting to metric, I don't want to have to think in both systems.

 The only thing I still can't do is look at something and say "that looks about x mm" but I can pretty accurately say "that looks about x inches"
ex-cabinet maker, now I just play with wood

Offline demographic

  • Posts: 317
Can't help you with most of your complaints but on the Imperial to metric conversion part?

Tape measure with inches and metric on it, look up the size you want in cubits, fathoms and furlongs* (or whatever antiquated measurements you still use in the US) and pull the tape measure out to that.

Look across the width of the tape and there you go, instant conversion.




*Yeah, I know its inches and feet but couldn't resist poking fun at the the fact that the US is in the company of Liberia and Myanmar (a.k.a. “the country formerly known as Burma”) for its measuring system so yer in good company.
   

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 662
Most versions of Windows in the past 10 years have unit conversion built into the included calculator.

Click on View in the top menu, then select Unit Conversion, you should see something that resembles this, it may vary slightly with each version of Windows.

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It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 662
I agree with the metric tape, but it is what it is. I just measure from the pin to the blade center. I've made a habit of running a pencil line for confirmation prior to cutting.

Why not just make the tape with both metric and imperial markings on it, just like many hand held tape measures.
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It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?