HappyCamper
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Location: CANADA (CA) Member Since: Feb 2007
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« on: October 13, 2011, 01:11 AM » |
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I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door. This is a standard exterior metal door of thin metal sheeting with a wood strip around the edges and I think some kind of foam in various places. I am just need to trim a small amount off this door so the part I will be cutting will be a thin steel over wood. Is this adviseable with the plunge saw and if so which blade to use? Any body ever try it? I am open to suggestions.
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2011, 01:18 AM » |
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My suggestion, TS75 with the steel cutting blade. Can you pull it off with a stock blade on the TS55 or 75 safely? Maybe, maybe not. Should you (for the blade's sake)? Probably not and the 55 will have a harder time doing it.
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« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 01:22 AM by Ken Nagrod »
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Holzhacker
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Location: Chicago, IL Member Since: Mar 2009
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« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2011, 08:54 AM » |
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I've done it a few times with my 75. I bought the metal blade Festool recommends, don't know the number. The blade wasn't cheap but replacing a shot wood blade wouldn't have cost much less so I bought the right blade. As much as I complain about not giving a darn about the 10% off deals. I did actually stock up on blades during that sale. Having bought any sandpaper though lately  |
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"The Code is not a ceiling to reach but a floor to work up from"
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HappyCamper
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Location: CANADA (CA) Member Since: Feb 2007
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« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2011, 11:34 AM » |
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I only have the 55, so the metal cutting blade for the 75 is not an option. In Canada here, I would be out over $1,000 for the 75 with the right blade. Has anyone done this with the jigsaw blade 486559? I do have the blade 496307 for the 55 which is for Corian and aluminum. Even if I had to get the blade resharpend, it would still be cheaper to try it. My only concern is the quality of the cut. I only need to make the one cut. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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waho6o9
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Location: San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles California Member Since: Dec 2009
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« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2011, 11:41 AM » |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2011, 12:06 PM » |
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I'm sure Forrest Blade would modify/make one for you for considerably less than the price of a TS75 and steel cutting blade. Give 'em a call. Can't hurt to ask.
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HappyCamper
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Location: CANADA (CA) Member Since: Feb 2007
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« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2011, 07:31 PM » |
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Thanks for the suggestions. I ended up using the Festool jigsaw with a bi-metal blade recommeded for sandwiched material. It went rather badly. Fortunately, I can hide it all with the draft stop.
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
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« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2011, 07:44 PM » |
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I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......
Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today. I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out. I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected. |
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Holzhacker
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Location: Chicago, IL Member Since: Mar 2009
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« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2011, 10:07 PM » |
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It went rather badly, WHY? Blade didn't work out or keeping a straight cut. I've also cut metal doors with jigsaws and a metal blade. The right blade and it should work fine. If however it was keeping it straight, consider the Trion guiderail adapter plate. I have one, use it only rarely but those few times it kicked butt. Clamping the rail to the door and riding the Trion along for a straight cut not only makes for a nice job but impresses the crap out of the client.
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"The Code is not a ceiling to reach but a floor to work up from"
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joinery45
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« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2011, 12:40 AM » |
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I cut 20 to 24 ga. sheet metal with my AT65E all the time. I lay the steel on top of a 3/4'' sheet of MDF for back up. I use the fine cut ATB blade, set the speed to one and the depth to 3, or until the ATB teeth show up as two parallel lines. Then slowly but surely I just keep lowering the blade until I cut through. Maybe 4 passes.
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Peter Halle
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2011, 01:51 AM » |
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I use the guiderail clamped backwards (none splinterguard side towards the cut) and then use this type of blade on a conventional circular saw. No chip collection and most importantly - Wear Safety Glasses or Safety Goggles!  Peter |
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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lambeater
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Location: British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Apr 2010
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« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2011, 10:19 AM » |
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Metal doors cut very easily. I just clamp a straight edge on as a guide and use my regular 81/4 dewalt saw with a carbide blade on it. Caution wear a good mask as there is alittle hot metal flying around.
Lambeater
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Sam Murdoch
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Location: Mostly Maine, USA - often in the clouds... Member Since: Apr 2008
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« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2011, 01:03 PM » |
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Metal doors cut very easily. I just clamp a straight edge on as a guide and use my regular 81/4 dewalt saw with a carbide blade on it. Caution wear a good mask as there is alittle hot metal flying around.
Lambeater
+1 to this technique, but I add a sheet of plywood between my saw and the door - that is - I attach a straight edge as a guide to a piece of plywood , clamp it all down then rip through my ply and the door. The ply keeps the metal edge from pulling up (especially when trimming close to the edge). I would not trash my Festool saw and guide on such a job. But, you are done now...  . |
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cairnstone
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« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2012, 07:30 PM » |
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I have trimmed a couple doors using the makita track saw no issues what so ever. The out skin on the doors that I cut down appeared to be alminium not ferous so there was no damage to the blade. I make sure that the blade was changed after so that the saw was ready to go for the next use. Blade went for resharping after and was better than new
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greenMonster
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« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2012, 07:47 PM » |
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I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder  I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......
Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today. I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out. I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected. |
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6191
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« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2012, 10:20 PM » |
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I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......
Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today. I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out. I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected. Mental focus..... |
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greenMonster
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« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2012, 10:51 PM » |
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Not worthy oh obi one. no secret voodoo? :p I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......
Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today. I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out. I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected. Mental focus..... |
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2012, 11:06 PM » |
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Not worthy oh obi one. no secret voodoo? :p I must suck with a grinder...I don't know how anyone can cut a clean straight line with a grinder I have cut many a door with my Festool plunge cut saw, but not a metal door......
Funny thing, I was in this very predicament today. I thought about using the aluminum/plastic blade for my TS55 but I chickened out. I ended up using a grinder, it worked better than I expected. Mental focus..... I remember a few years back there was some young kid, 18 or 19 years old on one of our jobs. He was trying to loosen a really tight slotted screw on some tool he was working on. After watching him struggle I offered to give it a try. He said "Sure, give it a shot, but if I can't get it to come loose I doubt you'll be able to." He handed me the screwdriver and a few seconds later I had it loosened. "Wow, how did you do that?" he asked. I said, "Mental focus". To that kid, focus might as well have been voodoo. |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2012, 11:08 PM by Brice Burrell »
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greenMonster
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2012, 11:43 PM » |
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Any Sufficiently Advanced Technology is Indistinguishable from Magic Grinder just seems like such a blunt tool...then again, I'm a wiz with a sawzall  |
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richard.selwyn
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Location: Normandy, France Member Since: Jan 2007
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Normandy, France
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« Reply #19 on: January 07, 2012, 05:19 AM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
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lambeater
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« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2012, 10:38 AM » |
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Its not too complicated so it doesn't need to be overthought. Doors are only metal skin with wood core. Use a skill saw with carbide blade, straight edge for guide and a good set of eye protection!!!
lambeater
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Nigel
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« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2012, 10:49 AM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips....  |
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waho6o9
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Location: San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles California Member Since: Dec 2009
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« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2012, 10:58 AM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
I use this cold saw when cutting metal. I like the way it works even though it's not an industrial type cold saw, and then again neither is the price. http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-FURY3-Multipurpose-Cutting-Compound/dp/B002BWP2O4 |
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Nigel
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« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2012, 11:26 AM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
I use this cold saw when cutting metal. I like the way it works even though it's not an industrial type cold saw, and then again neither is the price. http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-FURY3-Multipurpose-Cutting-Compound/dp/B002BWP2O4That's it.I think it's the blade that's the key part. |
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
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Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2012, 12:09 PM » |
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Its not too complicated so it doesn't need to be overthought. Doors are only metal skin with wood core. Use a skill saw with carbide blade, straight edge for guide and a good set of eye protection!!!
lambeater
Most metal doors don't have a wooden core. I wouldn't recommend cutting a steel door with just any carbide blade. The problem is that the door likely has a metal insert that seals or caps the top and bottom. It you happen to cut into that reinforced insert you might shred the teeth on the blade. |
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richard.selwyn
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Location: Normandy, France Member Since: Jan 2007
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Normandy, France
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« Reply #25 on: January 08, 2012, 05:43 PM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips.... Tinsnips are what I'm tyring to avoid - after a day cutting M48 profiles I get a blister! |
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Nigel
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Location: France Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #26 on: January 09, 2012, 07:52 AM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips.... Tinsnips are what I'm tyring to avoid - after a day cutting M48 profiles I get a blister! Ah,OK what about the guillotine.....again http://dnn.edma.fr/Langues/Francais/Produits/PlaquisteMaçon/Guillotineprofilésmétalliques/tabid/467/language/fr-FR/Default.aspx |
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lambeater
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Location: British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Apr 2010
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« Reply #27 on: January 09, 2012, 11:16 AM » |
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Its not too complicated so it doesn't need to be overthought. Doors are only metal skin with wood core. Use a skill saw with carbide blade, straight edge for guide and a good set of eye protection!!!
lambeater
Most metal doors don't have a wooden core. I wouldn't recommend cutting a steel door with just any carbide blade. The problem is that the door likely has a metal insert that seals or caps the top and bottom. It you happen to cut into that reinforced insert you might shred the teeth on the blade. Brice I am referring to regular metal skinned wood core household entrance doors only (original poster question). And no this is not a recommended way to cut a total steel door. thx Lambeater. |
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richard.selwyn
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Location: Normandy, France Member Since: Jan 2007
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Normandy, France
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« Reply #28 on: January 10, 2012, 04:07 PM » |
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According to my sharpening guy speed is critical when you use a dedicated metal blade. Metal cutting saws seem to run much slower. I want a chop saw for metal stud work ( internal walls here are rarely built of wood.) Makita do one but its 700 euros here. Any ideas? A cheap chop saw with variable speed?
Richard
Yes Richard,one of those Evolution rage things you see everywhere that cut metal with no sparks and they're cheap.Or a pair of tinsnips.... Tinsnips are what I'm tyring to avoid - after a day cutting M48 profiles I get a blister! Ah,OK what about the guillotine.....again http://dnn.edma.fr/Langues/Francais/Produits/PlaquisteMaçon/Guillotineprofilésmétalliques/tabid/467/language/fr-FR/Default.aspxLooks cool - and quiet - but is a bit limited - sometimes I'm having to cut M48, sometimes M70. Bought a Freud Ultimax chopsaw blade today so will be testing that out. I'm in England so it was nice and cheap  Richard |
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