A little more information about the size of boxes that you make might get some additional helpful responses.  I have used this accessory on the guide rails to make similar cuts.  It clamps onto the sides.



If you have smaller boxes and the length of the rail is unwieldy, many of us here (myself included)can attest to the fact that the Festool saws can cut the rails quite well.

Peter

I think that a combination of Peter's and Davee's ideas are the answer. I just checked to see if the Rapid Clamp will fit the MFT 3 profile. I had to remove the handle and loosen the tension bolt a couple of turns to get the clamp nut into the rail. Reinstalled the handle, it holds very well.

Tom

I make boxes all the time and used to do the cutting through (for the lid) on my old table saw. That saw had a riving knife which was just a fraction lower than the top of the blade - perfect for rebates and cutting off box lids. I replaced that saw with a Jet and I found myself having to completely remove the riving knife (3 minute operation) everytime that I wanted to tackle a box. The results were poor and so.....

I have now got the CMS Unit with the TS55R Support Module. By removing the riving knife extension and blade cover you end up with a super little table saw which is dead accurate and still has a riving knife (the one attached to the saw). It is brilliant for boxes and all other rebate work. I am in the middle of doing a two part video of the CMS-TS55R. Part 1 is already up and Part 2 should follow in the next day or two. In Part 2 I demonstrate (with loads of safety warnings) how the riving knife extension can be removed and I then cut some rebates. Because the CMS setup is so well engineered I end up with really nice square cuts. For the boxes I then only need a light sand - I do this by having a sheet of sand paper on the bench top and I rub the box or lid over it to keep the finish flat.

I have tried a guide rail setup for boxes but it was not good enough. I have done some long rebates on 4x2 using the guide rails and they were not too bad.

Peter

Thanks for the great solutions. Love the CMS, but it's not available in the US. Think I'll try this approach:
1. Clamp box to MFT table top using horizontal clamp and dogs.
2. Position guide rail for first lid cut using parallel guides indexed off what will become the bottom of box (this gives a repeatable cut, and indexing off the bottom avoids the need to shim the kerf as Davee points out).
3. Secure guide rail with Rapid Clamp (always wondered what this was good for!).
4. Make first lid cut.
5. Rotate box and repeat.

Mr. green,

The panel is LP Smart Panel. It is a panel for exterior siding. In this case it is being used for garage liner (wall covering). It is an OSB product that is very weather resistant. The edge strands are visible in some of the pictures. The one with the rail on it appears to be a solid edge, that is the edge of the rail.

I have cut sheet rock with my rail and TS, 12' x 1/2". I needed 48 1' wide strips, stacked the 8 4x12 panels, aligned the edges, cut through the top 3 far enough to mark the next on the pile. Work exceedingly well. No clean up and the loss to the blade kerf did not matter.

I also cut my Hardi cement backer board with my rail and TS.

Tom

Thanks Scott.

The clamp also works well when you have to trim a cabinet in place. On the lower angled cabinet, I had the cabinet on its back, the rail on 2 lookouts hanging in the air, to trim the angle. Could have used a blade left TS, but I don't have one.

(The blue tape is for mark visibility.)

Tom

 

I'm always tempted to cut some of my cement based products with my ts55, but never do knowing how hard it is on blades....

Do you use the stock blade for cement?

Why on earth wouldn't they sell that PCD in the US???