Wendan20
 OfflineMember Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 6
|
 |
« on: January 27, 2012, 07:45 AM » |
|
Hello,
Has anyone cut steel (4 mm thick) with a jigsaw? I'm told that this is possible. I'm going to place two windows in a steel boat and have to cut the wholes out first.
I'm curious if anyone has experience doing this and tips are more then welcome!
By the way I'm using a Trion PS 300.
Greetings,
Daniel
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
|
|
Alex
Offline
Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 2805
|
|
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2012, 08:02 AM » |
|
It is perfectly possible to do so. I've done it sometimes on small strips. But if you want to do a big piece like an entire window, I'd take it slowly. Metal on metal becomes hot very fast so I'd suggest doing it in small increments and allow the blade to cool down in between. Normally with metal a cutting oil is used as a coolant, but with a jigsaw held vertically this might be less practical.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 10:33 AM by Alex »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Acrobat
Offline
Location: Upper Right, Middle earth Member Since: Jun 2008
Posts: 103
|
|
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2012, 12:28 AM » |
|
I tried and went through a few blades even expensive bosch ones, just getting to halfway across a benchtop, so I switched to a grinder, much faster and then smoothed the edge with a hand file. Stainless steel is tough to cut, cost me a few jigsaw blades!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My Festool addiction fed currently by: Kapex 120, TS55R, DF500 & Domino accessories set, Rotex 125, ETS 150/3, DTS400, C12, Ti15 Impact Driver, Midi vac, Surefix Oiling/waxing Kit, OF1010 Router, Kapex 120
Wish List? Carvex420??, Belt sander with frame and planer with frame.
Uncle Festool
|
|
|
CharlesWilson
Offline
Location: Newington, CT Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 416
|
|
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2012, 10:00 AM » |
|
I have done it fairly often. Keep the speed down, put some oil on the blade every minute or so and you can extend the blade life. If you try to cut through hardened steel or cast iron, prepare to wear out many blades quickly.
I met someone the other day who routinely cuts into cast iron bathtubs. The combination of cast iron (which seems to have bits of carbide embedded in its structure) and porcelain limit him to very slow cutting. A blade lasts about 6 inches before needing to be replaced. He has tried carbide tipped blades, diamond tipped blades with no improvement.
Sounds like you are just doing steel plate, and should have no problem.
Charles
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Charles Wilson
|
|
|
Tom Bellemare
Festool Dealer
Offline
Location: Austin, Texas - USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 3557
Festool demo's & personal service in Central Texas
|
|
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2012, 10:23 AM » |
|
I've cut a lot of steel extrusions like angle iron and the ones that are used for shelving that have the vertically elongated holes that accept brackets for adjustable shelves. I think I've made about a dozen of those cuts with a Trion and the same blade.
I think Alex is right, if the blade has a chance to get too hot, it probably goes down hill fast. I learned the hard way to not wear flip flops while cutting steel. Those little bits that fall to the floor are really hot.
Tom
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Michael Kellough
Offline
Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1905
Southern New York
|
|
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2012, 12:32 PM » |
|
I have done it fairly often. Keep the speed down, put some oil on the blade every minute or so and you can extend the blade life. If you try to cut through hardened steel or cast iron, prepare to wear out many blades quickly.
I met someone the other day who routinely cuts into cast iron bathtubs. The combination of cast iron (which seems to have bits of carbide embedded in its structure) and porcelain limit him to very slow cutting. A blade lasts about 6 inches before needing to be replaced. He has tried carbide tipped blades, diamond tipped blades with no improvement.
Sounds like you are just doing steel plate, and should have no problem.
Charles
 The best blade for ceramic coated cast iron is this type. Silicon carbide grit impregnated abrasive cut off blade. I ripped a large old claw foot tub in two with this type blade in an old Skil saw. Makes a lot of dust but since it cuts fairly slowly and there are no teeth to grab the work you could make pocket cuts if small openings are required. For the OP, an aluminum oxide grit blade would work for steel but it will throw a lot of sparks and very offensive dust. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Tom Bellemare
Festool Dealer
Offline
Location: Austin, Texas - USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 3557
Festool demo's & personal service in Central Texas
|
|
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2012, 03:02 PM » |
|
I remodeled our guest bath a few years ago and it had a ceramic coated cast iron tub that was wedged in between the two long walls of the bathroom. It never occurred to me to cut it. I got out a sledge and went to town on it. It was incredibly noisy and messy (ceramic shards) but after hitting it for a while, I broke chunks off and eventually broke it in half.
Tom
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Peter Halle
Global Moderator
 Online
Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
Posts: 6386
|
|
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2012, 05:29 PM » |
|
As possibly an interesting side note - you decide - while I was at JLCLive! I was talking with a bunch of the Festool guys about the Trion and learned that the power train aspect of that saw is deemed "virtually bulletproof." It seems that only a couple have ever made it back to service here in the US due to power train issues. One that did need to be served was used constantly to cut 3/8" thick steel.
Peter
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
|
|
|
RonWen
Retailer
Offline
Location: One of the Thirteen Original Colonies of the United States of America. Member Since: Feb 2009
Posts: 1518
|
|
« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2012, 05:43 PM » |
|
I have cut lots of steel using a Milwaukee Sawzall with Lenox bi-metal blades with no problems.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
CharlesWilson
Offline
Location: Newington, CT Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 416
|
|
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2012, 03:10 PM » |
|
I have done it fairly often. Keep the speed down, put some oil on the blade every minute or so and you can extend the blade life. If you try to cut through hardened steel or cast iron, prepare to wear out many blades quickly.
I met someone the other day who routinely cuts into cast iron bathtubs. The combination of cast iron (which seems to have bits of carbide embedded in its structure) and porcelain limit him to very slow cutting. A blade lasts about 6 inches before needing to be replaced. He has tried carbide tipped blades, diamond tipped blades with no improvement.
Sounds like you are just doing steel plate, and should have no problem.
Charles
The best blade for ceramic coated cast iron is this type. Silicon carbide grit impregnated abrasive cut off blade. I ripped a large old claw foot tub in two with this type blade in an old Skil saw. Makes a lot of dust but since it cuts fairly slowly and there are no teeth to grab the work you could make pocket cuts if small openings are required. For the OP, an aluminum oxide grit blade would work for steel but it will throw a lot of sparks and very offensive dust. The fellow I spoke with was aware of the grinding option, but desires to do it with the jigsaw and dust collection so that he doesn't have to spend extra time tenting off the area, and cleaning up afterwards. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Charles Wilson
|
|
|
|
