Looks like we all need to pitch in to get Paul-Marcel a gym membership.   Of course, I can't talk much being a desk jockey myself. But, I do have some killer muscles in my mouse button finger.  

Nice video on what's sure to be an opinionated topic. Well done!

PS - I always thought of you as that nice guy that you'd want to have as a brother-in-law until that shirt showed up. Fortunately, I don't have any sisters. 

Thanks, Frank... for panel glue ups, it depends.  If the panels are glued long-grain to long-grain (99.9% of the time they are), the Dominos are just for alignment so I pick n choose where to put them based on how I'll assemble.  At least I don't want a Domino every 6 inches along a long panel to align and, moreso, apply glue.

Since I'm cherry-picking the Domino locations and not marching across via cross stops or fence pins, I just use a pencil line and use exact-size mortises.

Something else I've done on long panel joints: using 5x30 Dominos, mortise the first and last holes on one side of the joint to 12mm depth; the rest are 15mm.  On the other side of the joint, the first and last are 20mm deep (rest 15mm).  Now when you assemble the joint, put the Dominos in the first side, stand it up, then put the second side on it.  The first and last Dominos stick out further so get them in their mortises; it should then just drop down nicely onto the others.  The benefit there is if you work alone since the first Domino will be engaged in the board and keep it from slipping out of alignment while you work the other end.

Paul,
 Thanks for the response and GREAT tip on the end mortises....I will try this SOON 

Thanks,
Frank

Let me guess...  an engineer? 

I added numbers to your questions to make it easier to answer:


#1 - I used one clamp centered on the space between the Dominos, but with a 1" thick caul.  Both should have had the same pressure over the Domino mortise area

#2 - just 1 so n/a.

#3 - I may be misunderstanding your question.  I applied water to one side, glue to the other then assembled the mortise block w/o Dominos in it.  After wetting and applying glue to the Dominos, I refreshed the glue in the mortises (which is something I usually do anyway; it's dry out here).  Then tapped in the Dominos.  After about 7 minutes that way, I put the block on the edge of the bench "Dominos up" and gently tapped the top of the board to slide it off the back; I didn't pull it up possibly moving the Dominos.  They stayed right where they were and the top had only a little glue that pushed up from the bottom of the mortise well and around the sides of the Dominos.  Other than some in the well, it was all pretty snotty so to me it was in its final position.  I topped with plastic wrap and the top of the board and applied the same clamp and caul for 3 hours or so.  I didn't add more glue after separating the blocks to put the plastic in.

#4 - What brought this up was a conversation with a friend about putting just glue in the mortise to save on cleaning squeeze-out.  I think if you put glue on just the Domino, most would wipe off onto the surface leaving a bigger mess to clean of squeeze-out so it wasn't really relevant to my original test goals.

#5 - I've had too much in the bottom that settled and the hydraulic pressure coming back makes seating that Domino really hard!


This seemed like a valid way (among many) to test the idea.  Certainly if any aspect of the test weakened the 'mortise-only' case, it did a great deal while leaving the other still strong.

Ok, I withdraw my concerns.

DVDs are so late 90s Streaming is where it's at!

A food processor?  Before software, I was going to go into culinary arts so bring it on!!

Kev,

Check out reply # 23 in this old thread:  Humorous November 2008 Contest

Peter

So when can we watch your streaming version of Modernist Cuisine? 

And how's the review of your scroll saw coming together?

Wish I had a chance to eat at ElBulli before it closed last year.  Saw so many programs on his cooking; he's like Harold McGee to the twelfth power.  Wish the tomb on his methods wasn't the cost of a Rotex or I'd have had that long ago! But then I'd need room for a liquid nitrogen freezer for pea purée, balloons for aromatic desserts, and a funky Tesla-coil like thing to make string sugar.  It's no wonder the restaurant was open 6 months of the year with the other 6 busy doing R&D!

For the scroll saw, I'm so behind on things right now!  But it's on the list; I have a neglected entertainment center to finish first!

I posted the last of the 'crib sheet' series last night.  The idea for the series was to cover fringy topics that are useful to know.  Here's a list of what they cover:

- Screw holding in man-made materials using the Domino

- Preferring the Quick-Height Adjustment and Drawboring Dominos

- Grain and Angles - 4 topics
  topics are:

• grain orientations in traditional mortise & tenon joinery vs Domino joinery
• mortising miters
• best way to accurately set the fence bevel angle
• alternate way to Domino a mitered box corner without setting a bevel on the fence

- Mid-Panel Joinery, Cut-To-Length Stock, Pinning Joints

  Does Festool allow topless reviews?!? Please Paul keep the shirt on!!!!

Cheers,
Steve

Paul,  Thanks for another excellent video as all of them have been very helpful.  I used your ideas to expand the width of the domino mortise using the cursor marking for a through m&t joint with excellent results.

I do have one question about your testing technique, how many joints are put in pure shear loading like that and is that relevant to overall m&t joint strength in say a rail to leg joint?  I know that the comparison in the test is conclusive but, what does that tell us about furniture joint strength?

Not criticizing, just looking to stimulate thoughts since I use the glue mortise only technique a lot.

PS, my wife says lose the shirt

Paul, I think that would be a better method.

And I don't think you'd need to measure force. The reason being is that in all other joint tests,it seems that the surrounding wood always fails first. In which case, the experiment is tainted by the fact that no two pieces of wood are identical. All that would make sense is to run each joint type 30 times (there's that central limit theorem again) and take an average.

However, I'd bet that in this situation, both approaches would still yield a joint that fails in the surrounding wood. Which might mean that it simply doesn't matter.