bevans
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Location: USA Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 40
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« on: May 11, 2012, 09:05 AM » |
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I could use a little advice from our Kapex experts. I just finished setting up my new Kapex and it w almost ready to go right out of the box. It only needed a slight adjustment of the lasers. I Made a shallow cut in a piece of mdf and it cut right along the laser line as expected. My problem is that I started cutting up some pieces of oak trim and the bottom side of the cut seems like it is tearing the wood. The top of the cut is nice and clean but the bottom side leaves about 1/16 of an inch of wood that looks like it was torn rather than cut. I tried using both a chop motion as well as pushing the blade into the stock and get the same results. Any suggestions that would clean up the cut would be greatly appreciated. As it stands I would have to sand off each piece on the bottom side of the board.
Bruce
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ccmviking
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 362
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2012, 09:21 AM » |
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Bruce,
It's hard to stop all splintering but there are a couple of ways to make better cuts depending on what you're doing. Make sure you're speed is on 6 (high) and cut steady and slowly. Don't use a chopping motion if you don't have to. Keep in mind during a cut the direction and entry/exit of the teeth on the blade. Sometimes you 'll get a better cut if you pull the saw head out, go down and then forward into the cut. Use a sacrificial piece of wood under and behind the piece you are cutting if you can. You can make a zero clearance insert to replace the two plastic base pieces that are there now. This well prevent tear out on the bottom of your cut, and on the Kapex you can also mount sacrificial fences that will act in the same way.
Chris...
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bevans
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Location: USA Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 40
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2012, 09:28 AM » |
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Thanks Chris. I read about the zero clearance insert but didn't think that I needed it unless I was doing fine finish work. I will check the speed and change that as well if needed. I will try each of your recommendations.
Bruce
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hockey_magnet
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Location: Canada Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 305
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2012, 11:56 AM » |
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If you can - Pull the saw all the way out, lower it, then push slowly and evenly through the piece. Chopping almost always results in a rougher cut. Also as indicated a sacrificial piece will help.
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2012, 02:44 PM » |
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Hi Bruce
Chris is right - I made up a sacrificial insert instead of the plastic one suplied and it works really well. After a while, mainly because of angled cuts, the saw cut widens in the sacrificial piece and so it starts to lose its full effect. Even so, it is better than nothing.
The Kapex is a truly brilliant saw - I just wish I had discovered it (and Festool) years earlier.
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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barnowl
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Location: Massachusetts Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 124
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2012, 06:47 PM » |
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.... The top of the cut is nice and clean but the bottom side leaves about 1/16 of an inch of wood that looks like it was torn rather than cut. I tried using both a chop motion as well as pushing the blade into the stock and get the same results. Any suggestions that would clean up the cut would be greatly appreciated. As it stands I would have to sand off each piece on the bottom side of the board.
Bruce
Remove the factory inserts in the saw, and replace them with a custom made zero clearance insert. There are instructions in Rick Chrstophersons supplemental manual. Once fastened to the saw, you make a cut through it. No more tear out. It will have to be removed though if you make a compound cut. I did the same on the 2 rear fences. Makes for a beautiful clean cut. For 90* cuts only. Any angle cuts,....remove them.  |
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best wishes,
Steve
TS-55, assorted rails, Domino, Kapex, OF1400, ETS 125 EQ, RO 125 FEQ, RO 90, PSB 300 EQ, CT-22, CT-26, MFT-3
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Rustynuts
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Location: Milford on Sea, Hampshire, U.K. Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 15
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« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2012, 05:00 AM » |
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Hi Barnowl,
How did you put them on the back fences, dont they affect the fences on the out riggers.
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Regards
Rustynuts
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2012, 05:24 AM » |
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I saw your question to Barnowl and have attached a picture of my Kapex.
The rear inserts are made of hard maple and are attached to the sliding back stops with 6mm screws - I will take a better picture of that if it would help. There is no need to remove them when doing angled cuts - just slide the back stop out of the way (unless you want zero tolerance when angled of course).
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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barnowl
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Location: Massachusetts Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 124
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« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2012, 04:36 PM » |
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Hi Barnowl,
How did you put them on the back fences, dont they affect the fences on the out riggers.
Hi Rusty, Mine is very similar to the picture above, except I used countersunk flush machine screws on the front, and wing nuts on the rear of the fence. Change-out takes seconds. Hope that helps. |
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best wishes,
Steve
TS-55, assorted rails, Domino, Kapex, OF1400, ETS 125 EQ, RO 125 FEQ, RO 90, PSB 300 EQ, CT-22, CT-26, MFT-3
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Rick Christopherson
Retailer
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Location: Central U.S. Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 736
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« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2012, 03:04 AM » |
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Remove the factory inserts in the saw, and replace them with a custom made zero clearance insert. There are instructions in Rick Chrstophersons supplemental manual. Once fastened to the saw, you make a cut through it. No more tear out. It will have to be removed though if you make a compound cut.I did the same on the 2 rear fences. Makes for a beautiful clean cut. For 90* cuts only. Any angle cuts,....remove them. Actually, it will still remain pretty close to zero-clearance even when bevel cutting. Not perfect, but pretty close. The one I show in the manual is actually on my saw, and has not been replaced in the many years since I wrote the manual. |
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
Posts: 2401
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« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2012, 03:40 AM » |
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I don't have any zero clearance inserts yet but if cutting say a 2" x 4"" then cut half way down from the top pulling the blade towards you as you do this then plunge it all the way down at the end of the timber then push it through the piece for the bottom half of the cut. When done in a nice flowing motion it works very well. The only splintering is on the exit at the fence. It's all to do with the way the teeth exit the material.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2012, 05:42 AM » |
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Hi Barnowl,
How did you put them on the back fences, dont they affect the fences on the out riggers.
Hi Rusty, Mine is very similar to the picture above, except I used countersunk flush machine screws on the front, and wing nuts on the rear of the fence. Change-out takes seconds. Hope that helps. Yup - just the way that mine are fixed except I have a screw knob instead of the wing nut. Peter |
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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