Brice Burrell
 Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
 |
« on: December 17, 2009, 06:47 PM » |
|
I use checking out Youtube, and I came across a couple of LR32 hole drilling videos. Festool trainer Steve Bace demonstrates the setup and use of the system, check it out.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
|
|
Steve-CO
Offline
Location: Littleton, CO Member Since: Oct 2007
Posts: 721
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2009, 07:18 PM » |
|
Great videos, hope the MFS will be next on their list. Thanks for posting.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Tom Bellemare
Festool Dealer
 Online
Location: Austin, Texas - USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 1359
Festool demo's & personal service in Central Texas
|
|
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2009, 07:19 PM » |
|
Steve is a good instructor and a very knowledgeable guy with a lot of experience. I've taken a couple of classes from him. He recently told me that he wasn't happy with the production quality of these videos. I think they're just fine.
Tom
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
EcoFurniture
Offline
Location: Victoria, BC Member Since: Sep 2008
Posts: 525
|
|
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2009, 10:08 PM » |
|
I think the videos are great. Thanks for posting!
But I think I'm still faster using my Veritas jig for the shelf holes and my blum eurohinge jig for drilling the cup hinges. They also pretty much eliminate the risk of drilling in the wrong spot...
As well designed the festool system is, it's also very time consuming to teach your staff. I trained 4 staff within the last 12 months and showing them the festool system was the most time intense task.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE my festools. Nothing better. But when it comes to running a business, time is money....
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Kicbak
OfflineMember Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
|
|
« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2009, 11:10 AM » |
|
After watching this I didn't understand how the end stops made the holes line up with the cups. I understood 16 vs 32 and halving distance between the holes so the cup hinge is between them. The door would need to be 32 mm smaller (16 on the top and bottom) then the sides so that the end stops have zero play in the rail and door and the hinges on each end line up..... He didn't go into the door dimensions but I thought they would be the same size as the sides.
Wes
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Brice Burrell
Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
|
« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2009, 12:35 PM » |
|
After watching this I didn't understand how the end stops made the holes line up with the cups. I understood 16 vs 32 and halving distance between the holes so the cup hinge is between them. The door would need to be 32 mm smaller (16 on the top and bottom) then the sides so that the end stops have zero play in the rail and door and the hinges on each end line up..... He didn't go into the door dimensions but I thought they would be the same size as the sides.
Wes
The end stops set the distance from the edge of the work piece and the first hole in the rail. Steve drilled the holes for the hinge base plate (on the cabinet side panel) with the 16 mm offset. This made the distance from the end stop to the first hole on the rail 16 mm, placing the holes at 16, 48, 80, 112 mm and so on. He skipped the 16 and 48 mm holes, and drilled the 80 and 112 mm holes. With holes at 80 and 112mm for the hinge base plate the hinge cup needs to be drilled at 96 mm in the door(s). With the end stop set to the 32 mm offset of the door it gives you holes 32 mm increments, 32, 64 and 96 mm. This allows the door to be the same size as the sides of the cabinets and have the hinges line up. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Kicbak
OfflineMember Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
|
|
« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2009, 01:01 PM » |
|
I understand the hole needing an offset of 1/2 but I don't see how the rail fits a door the same size as the sides
The rail was clamped once for the side with the stops spaced at 16 on both ends. The size was a multiple of 32 with makes the end stops flush with the panel (ei no play up or down). When you shorted the distance between the end stops by 16 on each end, then the door the same size as the sides won't fit.
Does the flipping the end stops from 16 to 32 not make the distance between each end change? I just for the LR32 kit and I can't look at it right now as I'm at work.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Brice Burrell
Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
|
« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2009, 02:11 PM » |
|
....Does the flipping the end stops from 16 to 32 not make the distance between each end change?....
Yes and no. If you mount the end stops in the same holes in the rail, then yes, the distance between the two stops will be smaller. However, you can move one of the stops to the next hole in the rail to keep the same spacing (768 mm used in the video). In other words, it doesn't matter which offset you use the spacing will be multiples of 32. Unless you use the 16 mm offset on one end stop and the 32 mm on the other. Does that make sense? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Kicbak
OfflineMember Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
|
|
« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2009, 02:21 PM » |
|
Ah so you need to move the stop to another hole as well as flip it. Didn't pick that up from the video. So I flip move on of them so it lines up with the top and bottom of the door then do the 3rd full hole/hole in the middle of the 2 hinge holes on the sides. So if you use the entire rail ( last holes) for the side you use last hole on 1 end and 2nd from the last on the other end.
Thanks a ton. Going to mess with this tonight.
Wes
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Brice Burrell
Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
|
« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2009, 02:39 PM » |
|
Ah so you need to move the stop to another hole as well as flip it. Didn't pick that up from the video. So I flip move on of them so it lines up with the top and bottom of the door then do the 3rd full hole/hole in the middle of the 2 hinge holes on the sides. So if you use the entire rail ( last holes) for the side you use last hole on 1 end and 2nd from the last on the other end.
Thanks a ton. Going to mess with this tonight.
Wes
You got it Wes. You didn't pick that up because it wasn't done that in the video. I strongly recommend playing with the LR32 on scrap because you'll likely screw something up on the first try. The good news is once you make a mistake it's usually easy to figure out what you did wrong and how to correct the problem on the next try. If you end up with more questions don't be afraid to ask. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Brice Burrell
Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
|
« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2009, 02:46 PM » |
|
BTW guys, Mirko did a very nice write up on the LR32 (one of my favorite threads on the FOG), check it out here, LR 32-SYS secrets explained! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Mirko
Offline
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 378
|
|
« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2009, 04:25 PM » |
|
Thanks Brice,
Wow I posted that back in March 07... where does the time go?
Since then I graduated up to the New Blum mini press with the 7 spindle accessory...
Regards,
Mirko
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
joiner1970
Offline
Location: London, England Member Since: Jun 2007
Posts: 446
|
|
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2009, 11:04 AM » |
|
Nice videos but it would have been nice to see the 32mm hinge hole actually drilled does the 1010 struggle to drill a 35mm hole is that why it wasnt shown ?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VORSPRUNG DURCH TECHNIK
|
|
|
Brice Burrell
Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
|
« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2009, 11:38 AM » |
|
Nice videos but it would have been nice to see the 32mm hinge hole actually drilled does the 1010 struggle to drill a 35mm hole is that why it wasnt shown ?
No, the 1010 can handle the hinge cup hole fine. I'd speculate that it wasn't shown because the dust collection isn't very good for the hinge cups. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
joiner1970
Offline
Location: London, England Member Since: Jun 2007
Posts: 446
|
|
« Reply #14 on: December 20, 2009, 09:47 AM » |
|
OK good . I just missed out on a used 32 set in the systainer on ebayUK. Festool UK were selling off some of their old demo stuff last week the sys 32 set went for GBP 166 + 8 shipping not bad but I only went to 150  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VORSPRUNG DURCH TECHNIK
|
|
|
sroxberg
OfflineMember Since: Feb 2007
Posts: 86
|
|
« Reply #15 on: February 6, 2010, 09:12 AM » |
|
Great Video's and I have a much better understanding of how to set it up and use it. But, there is always a but. Isn't the door always slightly smaller that the sides, maybe not for a full overlay but if you were doing a 1/2 or 3/8 overlay the door would be shorter than the sides thus not allowing you to register from the door edge? I'm obviously confused.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Brice Burrell
Offline
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 3509
Remodeling Contractor
|
|
« Reply #16 on: February 6, 2010, 10:12 AM » |
|
Great Video's and I have a much better understanding of how to set it up and use it. But, there is always a but. Isn't the door always slightly smaller that the sides, maybe not for a full overlay but if you were doing a 1/2 or 3/8 overlay the door would be shorter than the sides thus not allowing you to register from the door edge? I'm obviously confused. If you are referring to height, frameless cabinets generally align the bottom of the door with the bottom of the cabinet with a space or reveal at the top. Aligning the door/cabinet at the bottom allows you to index the end stops on the guide rail to the bottom of the door, this will correctly align everything. Overlay in width is all a matter of the hardware selected and using the correct setback to drill the door. Does that help? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
