Author Topic: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.  (Read 46577 times)

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Offline Festool USA

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Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« on: June 18, 2010, 09:11 AM »
The recent thread called "The Domino can't be this easy to use, can it?" made me think maybe the Domino is misunderstood or folks have questions about it.

So, what are your questions about the Domino? 

Post your question(s) and I, or the members of the forum, will do our best to answer them.  Please include whether you currently own the Domino or if you are considering adding one to your stack o' Systainers.  Or, maybe even the questions that you had at one point but have since figured out that may help another forum member.

Don't be shy!  This would also be a great opportunity for some of our forum visitors who have never posted to join the conversations.  [smile]

If it doesn't come up in the course of the conversation, I'll post a few tips in the coming days.

One request: please do not ask about the differences between the version with the pins and the version with the flaps.  There are other threads completely dedicated to that topic.  Thanks.

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Offline Jeff Zanin

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2010, 09:28 AM »
Is there a Domino setup that can be used to align and join 3/4" material at a 45? miter? 

If so what size bit and tenons would work for this, and how do you index the tool?

TIA

Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2010, 10:13 AM »
Jeff, great question.

Yes, you can use the Domino to join 3/4" material at a 45 (miters and bevels). 

For bevels:

Set the fence to a 45-degree angle, then lower the fence height making sure that it is as far down as possible.  It's important the the fence is completely in it's lowest height position to prevent the mortise from plunging completely through the material.  In this position, the mortise will be closest to the inside corner of the miter.  Also, it's important to make sure that you position the Domino correctly against the material.  The best way to do this is to first set the fence on top of the material, pressing firmly down on the handle, and then slide the Domino into the material.  This will ensure that there is no gap between the material and the Domino.

The angle created by the fence is used to index it on the material.

You can use the 5mm cutter and tenons.




For miters:

You can index the outside corner of the miter using the pins or flaps on the Domino.  For the inside corner, simply scribe a mark across the two pieces to reference.

In the case of miters, you can use 6mm cutters and tenons.  Generally, you want to use a tenon that is about 1/3 of the thickness of your material.

Again, the key to using the Domino is to keep firm pressure on the handle on the fence.




Angles other than 45:

You can also use it for angles other than 45-degrees using the same methods.


Offline Jeff Zanin

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2010, 07:52 PM »
Thanks Shane and Rutabagared, I appreciate the tutorial, tips, and photos.  I ordered the Domino today, the mitered joints will be one of the first projects.

Jeff

Offline Jon Hilgenberg

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2010, 08:07 PM »
Thanks Shane! When I started that post, I didn't think the Domino was difficult to use from what I had heard, but it was just absurdly easier to use than I thought.  Right out of it's systainer and within five minutes, I had figured out how to miter 3/4 plywood perfectly.  I hope this thread keeps going, because this tool really looks like it's limitations haven't been found.

Once again, thanks.

Jon

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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2010, 08:42 PM »
Thanks Shane and Rutabagared, I appreciate the tutorial, tips, and photos.  I ordered the Domino today, the mitered joints will be one of the first projects.

Glad it was helpful, Jeff. Please share some photos and your experiences with the Domino in the future.

Any other questions out there in FOGland?

Offline Jon Hilgenberg

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2010, 08:55 PM »
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2010, 09:00 PM »
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Jon, so are you saying that ALL corners of the cube will be mitered including the top and bottoms to the sides so there are no exposed joints? Or, you're going to miter all the sides together and the tops and bottom will be inset flush to the sides?

Just want to make sure I understand the question.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2010, 09:03 PM by Shane Holland »

Offline John Stevens

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2010, 10:12 PM »
Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Gary Katz did something like that when he made a some sort of workbench or cutting table--mitered edging around the work surface.  It's over at the journal of light construction.

It will definitely work if you only put dominos in only one pair of opposing sides of the tops and bottoms.  If you're using ply, chipboard or MDF, I think you can get a strong enough glue bond on the other pair of opposing sides with just a butt joint.

It may also work if you use the middle or widest settings when making the mortises to receive the tenons joining the top with the sides (and the bottom with the sides).  I'd try a prototype before using this approach, just to make sure.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

John
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Offline Jon Hilgenberg

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2010, 05:19 AM »
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Jon, so are you saying that ALL corners of the cube will be mitered including the top and bottoms to the sides so there are no exposed joints? Or, you're going to miter all the sides together and the tops and bottom will be inset flush to the sides?

Just want to make sure I understand the question.

Shane,

Tops and sides will inset to flush the sides, not mitered into them. 

I'll look into Katz's workbench to see if I can get some ideas though.

Thanks guys.
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Offline Jon Hilgenberg

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2010, 08:20 PM »
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Jon, so are you saying that ALL corners of the cube will be mitered including the top and bottoms to the sides so there are no exposed joints? Or, you're going to miter all the sides together and the tops and bottom will be inset flush to the sides?

Just want to make sure I understand the question.

Shane,

Now I have to build a box in which three sides and the top are going to be mitered (the back of the box will be butt against a wall, )  the top, front, left and right will be visible.  Can all of the mitered joints be domino'd?
Thanks,

Jon
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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2010, 10:27 PM »
Now I have to build a box in which three sides and the top are going to be mitered (the back of the box will be butt against a wall, )  the top, front, left and right will be visible.  Can all of the mitered joints be domino'd

Jon,

Great question.  I have never personally tried that type of application.  I believe you may run into a challenge with assembly having that many mitered sides.  Let me check with our trainers and see if they have some advice on how to tackle this particular application. 

Also some of our members may have some advice in the mean time.

Offline harry_

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #12 on: July 16, 2010, 04:28 PM »
Just thinking out loud........

I would say yes by setting the dominoes as you would do a butt/lap joint, but well offset from center to where the meat of the mitres are. Not perpendicular to the mitre itself, as you normally would. This way your joints would assemble in a `parallel` motion as opposed to a `contracting` motion.
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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2010, 04:40 PM »
I had sent Jon a PM asking the dimensions of his material.  I think the best method may be to make the mortises on the top prior to cutting the miters.  This would make assembly a lot easier since the tenons would be straight up and down versus trying to assemble something with 45 degree tenons on three sides which may or may not be possible since I've never tried it.  Maybe someone else has and can offer some input.  I would think that if you chose to make the mortises at 45's then you would want to use the widest mortise setting on the Domino to give more wiggle room for assembly.

Just my 2 cents.

If time permits, I may experiment at home this weekend.

PS - I have to give credit to seeing someone else come up with the idea of creating the mortise prior to the miter.  I can't remember who but I think it was posted here or on talkFestool at some point.

Edit: I think it was this post by Tezzer that gave me the idea.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2010, 04:49 PM by Shane Holland »

Offline harry_

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2010, 06:15 PM »
Shane,

I guess that is what I meant. I knew that the mortise/tenons had to run parallel to assembly. Having read your post, for stability & accuracy's sake, it would only make sense to cut the mortise(s) prior to cutting the mitre.

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Offline Jon Hilgenberg

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #15 on: July 16, 2010, 08:34 PM »
Shane,

I guess that is what I meant. I knew that the mortise/tenons had to run parallel to assembly. Having read your post, for stability & accuracy's sake, it would only make sense to cut the mortise(s) prior to cutting the mitre.



Brilliant guys.  I just couldn't wrap my head around the top section, but mortising prior to mitering sounds like the way to go (I hope)!  I'm working on site this weekend but don't know if I'm going to get to that area.  I might fuss around with some scraps if I have time as well.

Jon
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Offline harry_

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2010, 08:48 PM »
plunge depth is going to be critical as you will be removing much of the mortise material when you cut the mitre. you will need to account for that. Or if necessary, you could shorten the domino.

Sorry, my familiarity with the domino is limited, but I have done this with dowels so the same principles apply.

I am sure that you will see what I mean.
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Offline dsweetser

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2010, 10:18 PM »
Just completed the cabinet class.  Great experience.  Best tip. Grasp the Domono by the plug-it-chord, place your thumb on the back of the motor just above the plug-it-chord and push straight in.  Great control.  No deflection.

Don
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Offline Sean Ackerman

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2010, 03:13 PM »
Just completed the cabinet class.  Great experience.  Best tip. Grasp the Domono by the plug-it-chord, place your thumb on the back of the motor just above the plug-it-chord and push straight in.  Great control.  No deflection.

Don
Amen to that Don.  One of the best things I took from training as well.
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Offline Jon Hilgenberg

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #19 on: August 01, 2010, 01:32 PM »
Just completed the cabinet class.  Great experience.  Best tip. Grasp the Domono by the plug-it-chord, place your thumb on the back of the motor just above the plug-it-chord and push straight in.  Great control.  No deflection.

Don
Amen to that Don.  One of the best things I took from training as well.

Have been putting that technique to good use as well.  Mitering a ton of prefinished 3/4" panels on site and each one is better than the next.  Thanks for the tip

Jon
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Offline Kevin D.

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #20 on: August 08, 2010, 04:28 PM »
Here's a Domino question...

On another forum, a fellow was asking what would be the most effective way to bore thousands of holes to accomodate hollow aluminum spindles for an outdoor deck.  The suggestion I offered was to see if using the Domino and Cross Stop attachment to set sipo dominos in the upper and lower rail would be feasible based on the width of the ID of the spindles versus the width of a Domino not requiring shaving down the dominos in order to accomodate.  The question I thought of afterwards though was with the spindle basically floating, would there be issues with either the SIPO ultimately bloating, or are they truly waterproof over time?

Another question I had semi-related is whether there are 4mm SIPO's?  Couldn't find them on the website nor at a few retailers I checked.  If they are not available currently, are there any coming out down the road?

And another semi-related Q, when will the Domino Deck Fastening System be arriving in NA?  I know it is scheduled to arrive, but is this imminent.  I have a deck building project that hopefully will get off the ground before this winter myself, and would entertain using it.

Here's a link to the "1,000 Holes" thread on the other forum, for those interested:

http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/showthread.php?t=34575
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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #21 on: August 08, 2010, 04:42 PM »
Wow, that's a lot of questions, Kevin!  [big grin] Let me see if I can answer them all.

As I understand it, the Sipo is a species of mahogany and is resistant to rot and thus better for outdoor use.  I don't know specifically about it's tendency to swell over time but maybe someone else has some knowledge about that.  If not, I can ask some of my colleagues and find the answer.

I have not heard of any plans to offer a 4mm Sipo tenon.  I can check to make sure I am correct in saying that there are no immediate plans to offer one.

The decking fasteners... well, I don't know for sure.  I would expect to see them in the next 6 months but as far as I know there is no specific launch date planned at this point.

Offline Barryduck

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #22 on: August 15, 2010, 10:04 PM »
Hi Shane,
I have on several occasions  used  Dominos for cabinet construction in 16mm Melamine faced board (Craftwood in Australia). Using the 5mm by 30 mm dominoes I find it often "breaks" through the melamine face surface of the board ruining the panel. I have found the only solution is to pre cut 4mm off the Dominos which works but is time consuming and frustrating. Do you have any suggestions other that to move to the new 4mm Domino?
Regards
Barry

Offline Brice Burrell

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #23 on: August 15, 2010, 10:22 PM »
Barry, I think 16mm is cutting super close (as you already know). One thing that helps a little, be sure to have the piece backed up when inserting the tenons. What I mean is be sure the backside of the piece is on something solid like your work bench. If the piece is aloud to over hang the bench the tenon can be easily driven right though the side of the piece since there isn't any support behind the thin material remaining.

The fastest way to cut down tenons in to make a number of mortises in a scrap piece, insert the tenons and run them through a table saw.

It wouldn't be much trouble to switch over to the 4mm cutter/tenons since tenons are mostly for aliment on cabinets (at least for me).   
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Offline wooden

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #24 on: August 15, 2010, 10:31 PM »
H Using the 5mm by 30 mm dominoes I find it often "breaks" through the melamine face surface of the board ruining the panel. I have found the only solution is to pre cut 4mm off the Dominos which works but is time consuming and frustrating. Do you have any suggestions other that to move to the new 4mm Domino?
Regards
Barry

How deep are you mortising?  When mortising 90 degrees to the face of the board, I will mortise the minimum depth - 12mm.

Then mortise 20 mm into the joining board because you are mortising parallel to the plane and hence have plentybof material below the bottom of the mortise.  You can mortise 15 mm.....at least I've successfully done so.

Offline Brice Burrell

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #25 on: August 15, 2010, 11:03 PM »

How deep are you mortising?  When mortising 90 degrees to the face of the board, I will mortise the minimum depth - 12mm.

Then mortise 20 mm into the joining board because you are mortising parallel to the plane and hence have plentybof material below the bottom of the mortise.  You can mortise 15 mm.....at least I've successfully done so.

Yeah, that will help but it's not hard to blow right though 4mm if you aren't careful.
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Offline southern_guy

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #26 on: August 16, 2010, 02:34 AM »
I generally plunge to 20mm into the end of one piece when joining to say a 16mm side. I then fit the domino to that piece first, ensuring that the amount protruding is no more than 12mm before fitting to the side piece. That way the domino can't blow through, there simply isn't enough protruding to cause a problem.


Offline jonny round boy

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #27 on: August 16, 2010, 02:49 AM »
I generally plunge to 20mm into the end of one piece when joining to say a 16mm side. I then fit the domino to that piece first, ensuring that the amount protruding is no more than 12mm before fitting to the side piece. That way the domino can't blow through, there simply isn't enough protruding to cause a problem.



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Offline Barryduck

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #28 on: August 16, 2010, 03:29 AM »
Barry, I think 16mm is cutting super close (as you already know). One thing that helps a little, be sure to have the piece backed up when inserting the tenons. What I mean is be sure the backside of the piece is on something solid like your work bench. If the piece is aloud to over hang the bench the tenon can be easily driven right though the side of the piece since there isn't any support behind the thin material remaining.

The fastest way to cut down tenons in to make a number of mortises in a scrap piece, insert the tenons and run them through a table saw.

It wouldn't be much trouble to switch over to the 4mm cutter/tenons since tenons are mostly for aliment on cabinets (at least for me).   
[/quote

Brice,
Thanks for your input. Yes I had had experience with the tenon being driven through the side of the piece. To obviate this I always drive the tenon into the other piece first and then back up the face piece as you describe. I think however you are correct  in that the clearance is just too fine and so its either cut the 30mm tenons down or use the 4mm cutter which I have thus far been unable to source in AUstralia. I also used your method of inserting a number of tenons into π side of a scrap piece and then cutting them all to size simultaneously.
Regards
Barry

Offline Brice Burrell

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #29 on: August 16, 2010, 09:07 AM »

......or use the 4mm cutter which I have thus far been unable to source in AUstralia.....

Regards
Barry

Barry, Anthony at Ideal tools has the 4mm cutters and tenons.  He's in of Melbourne. Here are links to the 4 mm cutter and 4 mm tenons, bag of 450.
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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #30 on: August 16, 2010, 09:50 PM »
Guys, thanks for stepping in and helping to respond to the question.  I apologize but I was away from my computer and thus the forum for most of the day.

Shane

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Offline Barryduck

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #31 on: August 17, 2010, 06:05 AM »
Brice,
Thanks for the tip and the link . I have been waiting for Ideal Tools to get these items in stock so I will get in contact with them. This looks like a fast trouble free solution to working in 16mm board with sufficient strength and no danger of breaking through the face.
My thanks to all the other respondents for their suggestion and help
Regards
Barry

Offline Chris Meggersee

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #32 on: September 07, 2010, 04:05 AM »
I just have a quick question. In the domino supplementary manual it says that you should only ever change the mortise width when the domino is on. Why is that?
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Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #33 on: September 07, 2010, 09:33 AM »
I just have a quick question. In the domino supplementary manual it says that you should only ever change the mortise width when the domino is on. Why is that?

Chris, it's because of the transmission on the Domino. The gears mesh easier when it's running.  It also says this in the original owners manual.

Offline Rick Christopherson

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #34 on: September 07, 2010, 10:27 AM »
Chris,
It is OK to turn the dial when the tool is not running, as long as you don't force it. Sometimes the dial will turn very easy when stopped because the components are already lined up. If the components are not lined up, forcing the dial will break it. It is just easier to say always turn the dial while running.

Offline Chris Meggersee

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #35 on: September 07, 2010, 11:19 AM »
Chris,
It is OK to turn the dial when the tool is not running, as long as you don't force it. Sometimes the dial will turn very easy when stopped because the components are already lined up. If the components are not lined up, forcing the dial will break it. It is just easier to say always turn the dial while running.

Ah that is what I really wanted to know. Thank you. Obviously I have never forced it and nor will I ever but I worried that I was doing some kind of damage to by always changing it only when off.

Thanks Rick and Shane!
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Offline David

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #36 on: September 07, 2010, 11:26 AM »
Chris, I've found that it's easier to rotate it counter-clockwise when off than clockwise (without forcing it, that is).
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Offline Wood_Junkie

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #37 on: September 07, 2010, 11:44 AM »
I have a theory that this is like a stick shift manual transmission.
Sometimes when you turn the car off, you can put it in gear without depressing the clutch.  Sometimes you can't, because the gears aren't lined up, and they aren't moving.

Similarly, you can actually shift while driving, without using the clutch, but you have to get lucky with the timing to get into gear.  You can always shift *out* of gear while driving, without using the clutch. 

So, I think the widest mortise is fully "in gear", and you "downshift" through the middle width, and finally a downshift to the normal width.

 [huh]

Offline Ken Nagrod

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #38 on: September 07, 2010, 12:01 PM »
SYNCHROMESH GEARS

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #39 on: September 07, 2010, 01:01 PM »
No, it is not as simple as a gear mesh, and thinking it is this simple might cause someone to try to force it because a gear mesh can typically be overcome. The drivetrain of the sweep mechanism is very complex and includes the movement of a yoke and several satellite gears.

If it doesn't move with zero-resistance, then don't move it!!!

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #40 on: September 07, 2010, 01:05 PM »
How about... only turn the width adjustment dial when it's running.  Or, maybe, don't turn the dial when it's not running. The choice is yours. [big grin]

Offline Chris Meggersee

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #41 on: September 07, 2010, 01:27 PM »
Sometimes when you turn the car off, you can put it in gear without depressing the clutch.  Sometimes you can't, because the gears aren't lined up, and they aren't moving.

Similarly, you can actually shift while driving, without using the clutch, but you have to get lucky with the timing to get into gear.  You can always shift *out* of gear while driving, without using the clutch. 

[scared] Your poor car! I hope for it's sake you drive a automatic  [tongue]


I second what Shane said. I can see now why they just blanketed that statement.

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Offline grobin

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #42 on: September 12, 2010, 10:38 PM »
I am using a water based topcoat (Crystalac) and have been plunging the mortises before finishing.  I protect them during finish and then glue up (makes clean upa lot easier).

Why not just finish and then plunge the mortise?

Offline Wood_Junkie

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #43 on: September 13, 2010, 09:06 AM »
Sometimes when you turn the car off, you can put it in gear without depressing the clutch.  Sometimes you can't, because the gears aren't lined up, and they aren't moving.

Similarly, you can actually shift while driving, without using the clutch, but you have to get lucky with the timing to get into gear.  You can always shift *out* of gear while driving, without using the clutch. 

[scared] Your poor car! I hope for it's sake you drive a automatic  [tongue]


I second what Shane said. I can see now why they just blanketed that statement.



It was my old '67 VW Beetle, and then a '85 VW Golf.  First two cars.  Had a love/hate relationship with them both.  ;-)

Anyway, drove a stick (manual transmission) for a number of years.  I didn't drive like I described all the time!  It was just experimenting with what you could or couldn't do with the transmission.  If, say, the clutch died while on a trip I knew I *could* shift without it. 

But I've had automatics for about 15 years now.

Offline mosez

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #44 on: September 14, 2010, 10:45 AM »
im having problems with edge alignment and festool service didnt help me (they say they cant find any error).

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/domino-not-mortising-in-the-centre-between-the-side-flaps/

this is not normal, is it?

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the first image shows two boards joined using the right paddle on both mortises (thus the huge gap between the faces, the board has been flipped)
the second image shows the same two boards joined using the right paddle on the first and the left paddle on the second mortise (like i always do on a usual face-edge-joint)
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Offline mosez

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #45 on: September 14, 2010, 10:48 AM »
oh, i already exchanged the paddle that was responsible for the longer distance of the mortise from the edge with the replacement paddle as explained in ricks supplemental manual. this just led to the edge being not flush in the other direction...
ideas?
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Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #46 on: September 14, 2010, 12:12 PM »
You could calibrate the paddles or use marks on both pieces. The marking method would be an immediate solution.

I always rest the machine's sole on the same surface of each work piece. That way, I don't have to be "perfectly" centered in the pieces.


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Offline jonny round boy

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #47 on: September 14, 2010, 12:17 PM »
oh, i already exchanged the paddle that was responsible for the longer distance of the mortise from the edge with the replacement paddle as explained in ricks supplemental manual. this just led to the edge being not flush in the other direction...
ideas?

If that's the case, then take the wider of the two paddles & file it down until it's part way between the original width and the width of the replacement paddle. that way, you can get it spot-on.

My domino is the same, and boards have a slight step in the edge. However, I haven't bothered with this procedure yet since I haven't done anything that requires that level of accuracy. I will get around to doing it one day, though.
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Offline mosez

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #48 on: September 14, 2010, 12:30 PM »
filing down it has to be then...

my problem is not about vertically centering it (which i know you dont have to when using both "good" sides of the workpieces for the fence to rest on) but about the center of the mortise not being in the center between the to edge dogs.
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Offline venk67

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? 12mm plywood butt joints
« Reply #49 on: January 05, 2011, 12:20 AM »
 ???
New to using domino, so apologise in advance:

When using thin material, I am using the 4 mm cutter set at 20mm setting.   My Q is related to determining how to reliably cut the mortise in the center of my plywood.

So far what I have done is use a 5mm spacer under my workpiece (the piece that I plungeinto the end grain), I then plunge on my MFT-3 table and assume that the horizontal fence is used to reference the cut ( material thickness guage all the way to thinnest) producing mortise 5mm from joint line ( what should the distance be from this fenceot the center of the tenon)?

Then I plunge (into the faceof the other board) by drawing a line 5mm from the joint line, lining up the base plate and so cut a mortise 5mm from the joint line. (12 +5=17mm minus 10mm means the mortise is 7mm from the bottom)

It seems to work, but can someone advise on a shim on the fence and what thickness it would have to be.

I have no plans to take a file to my DOMINO joiner.

Thanks Venk
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Offline Alan m

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #50 on: January 05, 2011, 05:54 AM »
the way i see it you dont need to exactly center but need to be able to repeat the setting time after time. you could make a shime to allow the fence to be in a higher setting . a better way is to buy one of Ron Wen,s (member here) domniplate that bolts to the bottom of the domino and centers the cutter on 3/4 and 1/2 stock. this is a gret piece of kit and i am ddelighted i got one
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Offline Mike Goetzke

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #51 on: January 05, 2011, 10:58 AM »
I'm a hobbyist and only use my Domino occasionally, but, don't want to relearn or look up techniques all the time. One thing that I think affects the quality of my mortises is how fast I plunge the tool. I have seen it suggested to push it in and release quickly and also to take 4-sec. to plunge. Which is correct?

Thanks,

Mike

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #52 on: January 05, 2011, 11:01 AM »
I'm a hobbyist and only use my Domino occasionally, but, don't want to relearn or look up techniques all the time. One thing that I think affects the quality of my mortises is how fast I plunge the tool. I have seen it suggested to push it in and release quickly and also to take 4-sec. to plunge. Which is correct?

Mike, here's some general guidance on feed rate when plunging mortises with the Domino. It's important to keep firm pressure on the handle on the fence and push with steady pressure from the back of the machine near the power cord for the best results.


Offline Greg Powers

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #53 on: January 05, 2011, 12:55 PM »
when you plunge at the correct rate the Domino make a different sound.
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Offline jimbo51

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #54 on: January 11, 2011, 04:13 PM »
I have a project where I need to attach table aprons to legs. The plans call for butt joints of 3/4 aprons to 1 1/2 inch legs, centering the 3/4 on the center of the 1 1/2. The plan suggests dowels, but I am using oak and the difficulty of drilling into the endgrain of the wood has already caused me some issues, so I want to use dominos instead. Although I have roughly figured out by trial and error how to almost center the 3/4 on the 1 1/2, I wanted to know if there was a simple way to do this accurately.

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #55 on: January 11, 2011, 04:19 PM »
Use the base to align to a center line. Scribe a line on the center of your material. Then align it with the surface shown in the image below.

Pretty sure that Rick covers this in his supplemental manual for the Domino.

Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #56 on: January 11, 2011, 04:48 PM »
You can use Shane's alignment method on the first piece while the fence is down and loose to set the fence. Then just use the fence as your guide on the other 7 ends.


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Offline jimbo51

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #57 on: January 11, 2011, 05:55 PM »
I did not see quite my situation in the expanded manual. I will have one end of the domino tenon going into the end grain of the apron and the other end going into one face of the leg. In the plan I am using, apron is the term used to describe the horizontal pieces that support the top of the piece.

In your picture, the top of the piece on the red line is the center line of the cutter? Since the center line is 10 mm from the base, is it realistic to try to set the height to 9.xx which is the center of my 3/4 stock? Since these measurements are so close, I have had trouble trying to make a stable cut with the stock laying flat on my MFT. I tend to get a slight angle. Would it be better to clamp the stock upright in a bench vise and hold the Domino upright? I am a little concerned about slippage in that situation. I think I could align the center of the 1 1/2 stock more easily since it is so thick and make the cut with the stock laying flat.

Offline RL

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #58 on: January 11, 2011, 06:18 PM »
I had a similar situation using the domino a couple of months ago. In my case it was for an offset joint in a bookcase. In the end it does not matter if the joint is exactly centered on the face as long as it is equally spaced from the front (or back) at both ends of the apron. Then the reveal will be the same at both ends of the apron.

You just have to make sure that you are always referencing off the same side.

If you rotate your Domino 90 degrees, you can reference off the edge and therefore avoid issues with slipping (if I understand your problem correctly).

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Offline Rick Christopherson

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #59 on: January 11, 2011, 07:38 PM »
You have two methods available for accomplishing what you need. The first method is based on treating your apron as though it were a shelf in the middle of another board. Your leg would be the bottom board shown in the two images below, and the pencil lines are placed at 3/4" from the edge.





The second option is to use a spacer for a single fence height setting. (or more simply, just reposition the fence). In this case, you would set your fence height to 19 mm (3/4") and plunge into the side of the leg. Then either reposition the fence to 9.5mm (3/8") or place a 3/8" thick spacer board on top of your apron board.

For your application, the precision of the height setting is not critical, but the repeatability of the adjustment is critical. To overcome this, simply plunge all four legs (8 sides) at the same time, then reset the machine and plunge all 4 aprons (8 edges).

Offline jimbo51

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #60 on: January 12, 2011, 10:21 PM »
Thanks. I think I will go with a variation of #2.

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Offline Deke

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #61 on: January 19, 2011, 05:27 PM »
I have a question. I swear I saw something here before, but I can't find it. I would like to learn more about joining pieces at an offset/inset and/or joining pieces of different thicknesses. In effect, what I need is to better understand how to measure then be right in where I wil put my Dominos when I am not doing simple joins. Does this make any sense?

Offline Greg Powers

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #62 on: January 19, 2011, 05:35 PM »
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.
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Offline jimbo51

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Domino trim stop removal
« Reply #63 on: January 20, 2011, 02:25 PM »
I just used the trim stop for the first time and it worked well. However, I am now having difficulty removing the trim stop. I undid the little latches and pulled firmly on the Domino while holding the trim stop. Nothing happened. I assume it is a simple matter of mind over Festool, but I do not want to damage it with an incorrect removal technique. Any tips? I did not lubricate the trim stop as there was no mention of that in the instructions. [tongue]

Offline jimbo51

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Trim stop now off
« Reply #64 on: January 20, 2011, 02:43 PM »
Hmmm.  I just tried to remove the trim stop again and it slipped off easily. 

Offline Greg Powers

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Re: Trim stop now off
« Reply #65 on: January 20, 2011, 02:50 PM »
Hmmm.  I just tried to remove the trim stop again and it slipped off easily. 

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Offline Ken Nagrod

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #66 on: January 20, 2011, 03:06 PM »
This discussion is heading for the Festool After Hours Group  [big grin].  Maybe Shane can set up a 900 number for you guys.

Offline Deke

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #67 on: January 21, 2011, 12:51 AM »
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.

Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?

Offline Brice Burrell

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #68 on: January 21, 2011, 10:34 AM »
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.

Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?

Deke, the Domino has a metric scale on the side, that will take care of you.  Keep in mind the numbers on the plastic stepped scale are for material thickness (also it's for roughly centering mortises). Where as the metric scale is distance from the center of the cutter to the fence.  So, let's use your 1/8" offset example, assuming your material is 3/4".  You could set the Domino's fence to 10 mm by using the metric scale. That would put the mortise(s) approximately in the center of 3/4" stock.  To cut the mortise(s) in the offset piece you'd set the scale to 7 mm, that would you approximately an 1/8" offset.  You might have to some testing with your Domino to get to know how it cuts relative to its scale's readings if you want very fine precision. 
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Offline Deke

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #69 on: January 21, 2011, 02:31 PM »
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.

Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?

Deke, the Domino has a metric scale on the side, that will take care of you.  Keep in mind the numbers on the plastic stepped scale are for material thickness (also it's for roughly centering mortises). Where as the metric scale is distance from the center of the cutter to the fence.  So, let's use your 1/8" offset example, assuming your material is 3/4".  You could set the Domino's fence to 10 mm by using the metric scale. That would put the mortise(s) approximately in the center of 3/4" stock.  To cut the mortise(s) in the offset piece you'd set the scale to 7 mm, that would you approximately an 1/8" offset.  You might have to some testing with your Domino to get to know how it cuts relative to its scale's readings if you want very fine precision.  

Thanks Brice! Dumb question #472. You and most people register the Domino from the top of the piece even though it would be possible to register from the bottom/flat bench top. I need to think this through and use the best method for the cut. For straight even joins I have been using the bench top approach (close enough to center on 3/4 pieces), but I am still new and need to get my hands dirty and make lots of test cuts and experiment.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2011, 02:34 PM by Deke »

Offline Brice Burrell

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #70 on: January 21, 2011, 02:57 PM »
I generally don't register off of a bench. One issue is the chance of error goes up some, if you get debris on the bench and register off it your mortise is wrong.  Also, and more importantly, is you're limited to the 10 mm from the Domino base to the center of the cutter.  When you register from the top/fence you've got the entire range of the Domino fence, that's about 7 to 30 mm.
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Offline Deke

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #71 on: January 22, 2011, 11:55 AM »
I generally don't register off of a bench. One issue is the chance of error goes up some, if you get debris on the bench and register off it your mortise is wrong.  Also, and more importantly, is you're limited to the 10 mm from the Domino base to the center of the cutter.  When you register from the top/fence you've got the entire range of the Domino fence, that's about 7 to 30 mm.

Thanks Brice! I will change the way I do this. Can you tell I am basically trying to run before learning to crawl here?  [smile] Still, don't blame me. The Domino is so cool I have been getting outstanding results without really taking the time to know what the heck I am doing. I have a friend who is a pro (unlike me) and he has had one for over a year and keeps saying, "I really need to sit down and figure out all the things this can do."

Offline Yeahbaby

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #72 on: August 28, 2012, 08:06 AM »
 ???I can't do a dry fit with any size domino because when I put them in I can't get them out without ruining them with pliers.
Any advise would greatly be appreciated.

Offline RL

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #73 on: August 28, 2012, 08:19 AM »
A well-known issue. You have a couple of options.

1. Sand a few dominoes and keep them to one side for dry-fitting purposes.
2. I use a locking wrench to pull the dominoes out. I have found that the jaws on these tend to not ruin the dominoes if I set it right. Also, I place a thin piece of wood between the wrench and the workpiece and lever the dominoes out rather than trying to pull them out. 

Offline Kevin D.

  • Posts: 910
Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #74 on: August 28, 2012, 11:02 AM »
???I can't do a dry fit with any size domino because when I put them in I can't get them out without ruining them with pliers.
Any advise would greatly be appreciated.

I have a pair of these for removing Dominos from dry fit.  I can rest the non-marring edge on the edge of the workpiece and pry them out without marring the edge of either the workpiece or the flat face of the Domino.  Way better than the wiglle-wiggle method of free hand pulling, or having to use a scrap piece of wood in between somewhat required when using other type pliers to avoid marring the workpiece.  The inner jaw face does not rip the face of the Domino as well like other pliers as it tends to pull it out with much less effort as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Williams-PL-126C-Thin-Chain-Pliers/dp/B005GXPK2E/ref=sr_1_131?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1346165422&sr=1-131

This type of 90 degree right angle plier was seldom ever used in my home since I bought it 15 years ago at Costco in a mixed assortment pack of long neck pliers, but since I've got a Domino, it sits no further than a few from it ready to use.  The right angle part on mine extend from where they curve about 1 1/4 inches out.  Not sure how smaller ones might fare.
Kapex, CT-SYS, SYS-Cart, Pro 5 Sander, CT36AC, TS75, MFT 1080, MF-SYS/2, PS300 EQ-Plus, Parallel Guides Set, LR32 SYS, RO 150FEQ-Plus, OF1400 EQ Plus, DOMINO 500 Q-Plus,  Domino XL, MFK 700 EQ-Set, FS-SYS/2, CT22 w/hose storage, D36HW-RS-Plus, FS 1900/2, FS 3000/2, FS 1080/2-LR32, FS 1400/2-LR32, Gecko, Festool Floor Mat, Festool Stein, Multi-Tool, tape measure, large and small Festool floor mats (foam rubber).

Offline sheeschen

  • Posts: 73
Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #75 on: August 28, 2012, 12:41 PM »
Another suggestion I read in another thread here, in addition to sanding some down, is to drill through-holes on both ends (so it looks like a double-1 domino).  Make the holes large enough to put a nail through, then you've got an easy way to pull out tight dry-fit dominos.

This also helps mark them as your dry-fit dominos so they don't accidentally get used.  Or you can reach for them in a pinch during a frenzied glue-up when nothing else will fit.

Offline Kevin D.

  • Posts: 910
Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #76 on: August 28, 2012, 03:07 PM »
Another suggestion I read in another thread here, in addition to sanding some down, is to drill through-holes on both ends (so it looks like a double-1 domino).  Make the holes large enough to put a nail through, then you've got an easy way to pull out tight dry-fit dominos.

This also helps mark them as your dry-fit dominos so they don't accidentally get used.  Or you can reach for them in a pinch during a frenzied glue-up when nothing else will fit.


Nice ideas.  Haven't read of those before.  Thanks for repeating them!  [smile]
Kapex, CT-SYS, SYS-Cart, Pro 5 Sander, CT36AC, TS75, MFT 1080, MF-SYS/2, PS300 EQ-Plus, Parallel Guides Set, LR32 SYS, RO 150FEQ-Plus, OF1400 EQ Plus, DOMINO 500 Q-Plus,  Domino XL, MFK 700 EQ-Set, FS-SYS/2, CT22 w/hose storage, D36HW-RS-Plus, FS 1900/2, FS 3000/2, FS 1080/2-LR32, FS 1400/2-LR32, Gecko, Festool Floor Mat, Festool Stein, Multi-Tool, tape measure, large and small Festool floor mats (foam rubber).

Offline Festool USA

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Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #77 on: April 21, 2014, 09:33 AM »
I don't think it's in this thread, but I'd like to share a blog post that I did, The Ultimate Festool Domino Guide. It has a ton of resources related to the Domino.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2012/06/28/The-Ultimate-Festool-Domino-Guide.aspx

In case you didn't see it, the Domino DF 500 and Domino XL will be 10% off in the US/Canada during May and June 2014, as well as related accessories and tenons.

YouTube playlists for the Domino 500 and XL:


Shane

Offline Peteman

  • Posts: 10
Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #78 on: January 30, 2018, 07:08 AM »
The link to ...

Quote
The Ultimate Festool Domino Guide. It has a ton of resources related to the Domino.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2012/06/28/The-Ultimate-Festool-Domino-Guide.aspx

Is broken.  Is there an updated link you can post?

Offline steverael

  • Posts: 3
Re: Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.
« Reply #79 on: January 31, 2018, 04:56 PM »
This is a great thread.  Perhaps I missed something earlier; but I don't see references to which Domino model is being used with regard to the question or solution.  Wouldn't it be important to include this info?