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Timtool
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« on: July 26, 2011, 12:27 PM »

being out of 5x30 dominos i suddenly asked myself if it is worth making them yourself or not, so i took a piece of 43mm thick beech about 700x150mm big. planed and cut into strips, it gave me almost 1000 dominos!
making them took about an hour and saved me something around €45 in tenons, going to the dealer would have taken an hour aswell lol

anyway, here they are, i planed blocks of 42x75mm, ripped them in half to give 18x75mm and ripped that to give 18x5mm strips (the size of 5mm dominos) and rounded over the edges on the router table.



(these are not all of them, it's the remains that didn't fit into the systainer)

anybody else done this?
im thinking i will never buy dominos again, maybe even make future ones out of softwood aswell because beech is overkill in many situation.
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2011, 12:40 PM »

Any problem not having the glue groves?
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Greg Powers
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Nigel

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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2011, 12:48 PM »

I've only made the 10mm ones in oak for exterior use.Saves a bit of cash....

This is my 'production line'
Cutting dominoes


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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2011, 12:54 PM »

kind-a scary with all that small stock traped between the fence and the blade Scared
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Greg Powers
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Nigel

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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2011, 01:16 PM »

I know it looks scary GP but there's a gap between the fence and dominoes,it's a split fence.So they never fly about.
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Alan m

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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2011, 01:27 PM »

i think iwould make my own for inlay purposes or if i ran out
it wouldnt be that hard to put the grooves in them
its a wonder nobody has created a bit for making them.
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Jesse Cloud

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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2011, 01:51 PM »

I make my own dominoes when I need a longer size (route the mortise with a router and an end mill), but I can't make a thousand of them in an hour. Sad

Economically, if Festool makes a domino the size I need, there is no justification for making my own.  Here in the US they sell for about 17 cents a piece (more or less depending on size and quantity).  I use ten of them in a chair that I sell for $800.  Much better to spend my time making chairs instead of making dominoes.
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waynelang2001

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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2011, 03:52 PM »

i think iwould make my own for inlay purposes or if i ran out
it wouldnt be that hard to put the grooves in them
its a wonder nobody has created a bit for making them.

I was just thinking the same thing. I have had a few custom cutters made for my spindle and it would be easy to design one for the domino. Also If I had a domino and needed to make domino's i think sending through the drum sander for a final pass with 60 grit paper would really give them some good bite for the glue.
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2011, 04:58 PM »

Wayne, how is that drum sander working out for ya.  Any niggles with it ?

Jesse, well said.  Better to spend your time making chairs  Big Grin
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2011, 07:26 PM »

I make my own.  I use the jointer to bevel the edges instead of rounding them over.  The advantage to homemade is that you can make them in widths and lengths to match the different settings on the Domino and you can size them so they don't have to be pounded in with a hammer or extracted with vise grips.  The fit the way a tenon joint should fit, snug but not too snug.

Justin
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« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2011, 08:55 PM »

I've made them myself for some shelving project where I needed them much longer (75mm).

Hardest part was dimpling the logo in.  Embarassed
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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2011, 09:13 PM »

I make my own dominoes when I need a longer size (route the mortise with a router and an end mill), but I can't make a thousand of them in an hour. Sad

Economically, if Festool makes a domino the size I need, there is no justification for making my own.  Here in the US they sell for about 17 cents a piece (more or less depending on size and quantity).  I use ten of them in a chair that I sell for $800.  Much better to spend my time making chairs instead of making dominoes.

I'd like to see a picture of that chair Jesse, sounds like it would be worth viewing!
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« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2011, 09:47 PM »

Nice choice of avatar for this thread, Max Smiley
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Kevin D.

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« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2011, 09:53 PM »

I've only made the 10mm ones in oak for exterior use.Saves a bit of cash....



That's interesting.  I assumed that one would use Mahogany to replicate their own SIPO's.  Is Oak just as suitably for water exposure?

Are there other woods that others have used to make Domino's for outdoor use?
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« Reply #14 on: July 27, 2011, 01:31 AM »

In the past before tropical hardwoods became widely available Oak and Chestnut were used for exterior but untreated they are probably not as durable as Mahogany or Iroko.Having said that Chestnut fence posts seem to last an awful long time.

I've used both Oak and Chestnut for making Dominoes usually for the widest setting.

I can easily make 500 in half an hour saving 158.82 euros on the cost of buying Sipo ones.I doubt I could earn that much even making chairs  Wink

The wood is just offcuts.Don't bother planing just rip to size.Then...bzzzz

« Last Edit: July 27, 2011, 02:25 AM by Nigel » Logged
Timtool
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« Reply #15 on: July 27, 2011, 02:56 AM »

Any problem not having the glue groves?

on some of the strips i routed small grooves length wise, but i gave up because it took too long.
if there was a cutter available that could make many small grooves simultaneously, like sawtooth cutter for glue-ups then i would use it.
i think length grooves would be better than the width grooves on the festool dominos, i think they tend to scrape the glue off the mortise, while length-wise grooves would at least leave glue where the groove is.

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Alan m

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« Reply #16 on: July 27, 2011, 06:19 AM »

could you use a cutter like this . just use the very tip of the cutter to do the grooveslink
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
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of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools


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« Reply #17 on: July 27, 2011, 06:31 AM »

Wayne, how is that drum sander working out for ya.  Any niggles with it ?

Jesse, well said.  Better to spend your time making chairs  Big Grin

Woodguy,

The drum sander is working a treat, I'm not sure how i worked without it before. I only ever had one niggle when the sandpaper came loose during a sanding run. It basically destroyed the paper on one side by burning it. But it held together so im still able to use half the paper.

Back to the domino's

If and when I get one I will have some custom cutters made that will both round them and cut steps into the round to create the grooves.

( maybe I should get a CNC router also to make make the domino logo on each side.......it would be faster then Paul's method )  Beating a dead horse
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« Reply #18 on: July 27, 2011, 10:01 AM »

A couple of passes with one of these will do the trick. In the old days (and in some cases today too), glue surfaces for veneers were prepared using these blades.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/?pg=4

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Jesse Cloud

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« Reply #19 on: July 27, 2011, 10:46 AM »

I make my own dominoes when I need a longer size (route the mortise with a router and an end mill), but I can't make a thousand of them in an hour. Sad

Economically, if Festool makes a domino the size I need, there is no justification for making my own.  Here in the US they sell for about 17 cents a piece (more or less depending on size and quantity).  I use ten of them in a chair that I sell for $800.  Much better to spend my time making chairs instead of making dominoes.


I'd like to see a picture of that chair Jesse, sounds like it would be worth viewing!

Thanks for the kind words manpower.  Here's a thread from the first time I made the chair that I now make with dominoes.  I'm working on a couple of new designs: a cafe style chair based on a U shaped lamination and a Maloof inspired dining chair.  I'm a little frustrated because the cafe chair just doesn't look right and the Maloof chair takes a huge amount of labor.
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Nigel

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« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2011, 11:33 AM »

could you use a cutter like this . just use the very tip of the cutter to do the grooveslink


I always intended to skim them lengthways with this but just never bothered.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-finger-joint-router-cutter-prod803735/
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« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2011, 12:59 PM »

A couple of passes with one of these will do the trick. In the old days (and in some cases today too), glue surfaces for veneers were prepared using these blades.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/?pg=4




That is an excellent way to do it.  I completely forgot that I have that blade.  I will try it.
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« Reply #22 on: August 01, 2011, 03:06 AM »

I've made various sized Dominoes to suit the different jobs I needed. Heres a selection of some of the different sizes of done. Some of them are made to the #3 width setting and some are made wider to suit a 65mm rail. The long one is about 68mm long to suit a 20mm thick division in between 2 rails.

Just chamferred with a 45 degree router bit with bearing all round. The grooves are done with a 45 degree router bit without a bearing (Comes to a point). This relieves the hydraulic lock and allows air aand excess glue to be squeezed out.


* Homemade domis.jpg (76.9 KB, 640x480 - viewed 438 times.)
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« Reply #23 on: August 01, 2011, 05:00 AM »

I've made various sized Dominoes to suit the different jobs I needed. Heres a selection of some of the different sizes of done. Some of them are made to the #3 width setting and some are made wider to suit a 65mm rail. The long one is about 68mm long to suit a 20mm thick division in between 2 rails.

Just chamferred with a 45 degree router bit with bearing all round. The grooves are done with a 45 degree router bit without a bearing (Comes to a point). This relieves the hydraulic lock and allows air aand excess glue to be squeezed out.

Impressive lineup!
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« Reply #24 on: August 01, 2011, 09:08 AM »

I've made various sized Dominoes to suit the different jobs I needed. Heres a selection of some of the different sizes of done. Some of them are made to the #3 width setting and some are made wider to suit a 65mm rail. The long one is about 68mm long to suit a 20mm thick division in between 2 rails.

Just chamferred with a 45 degree router bit with bearing all round. The grooves are done with a 45 degree router bit without a bearing (Comes to a point). This relieves the hydraulic lock and allows air aand excess glue to be squeezed out.

That's more what I was thinking of as well.  Something for glue to move around via the slottings you cut.  Thanks for sharing!
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