Im doing a heart pine floor using wide planks. I started off straight but due to variations in the milling, an unlevel floor, shims etc, I have developed a slight bow. This results in having to wrap the boards in with jacks and wedges.

I was thinking that I could route the edge  straight at this point to make the rest of the floor go easier.

The floor is not perfectly flat but it looks like my guide rails will follow the dip. By connecting all of my rails I can do it in one continuous piece.

I will not be able to attach the rail to the floor but i is unfinished pine and the rail seems to be grabbing ok. If I pick up an OF1400, a spiral down cutting bit and a rail guide attachment, do you think there is a good chance of success?

The router will hang off the edge of the floorboard. Is there a way to get the router level when edge routing with the guide? The little outrigger appears suited to Dado type work.

Thanks, I have been reading about the spacers. 5 mm whic is 3/16" or so.. I guess the best material would be Plexiglass. Given the wave I have to follow, I might be able to get away with a polished birch ply shim or something..

I dunno, if it screws up, (read I screw up) I might be worse off. I am going to put on another run of 9" planks and just dry clamp them in. That way if I mess it up Ive only ruined material that hasn't been glued, nailed and pegged. 

Likely, my worst problem will be that Woodcraft has no OF1400's in stock. Or they will have the OF 1400 but no guide rail kit. .. Well, you know what I mean.

It never occured to me to use the saw. Im not sure why. I have both now cause a miracle occured at the Woodcraft store and they managed to dig out everything but the bit. I have a upcut spiral instead. I won't be able to get to both ends. I think the router would do a cleaner cut. But it won;t be as stable. Stable probably counts more here but there is always stable enough vs perfectly stable. Ill do some short test cuts on scrap before I do the whole thing.

I picked up the wide base attachment. It is 9mm thick or something.. will that make the 1400 level to the rail?

The saw would give you much less chance of error I think.

Wide plank floors are a hit and miss for t&g.  I see a lot ship lapped or just butted together.

It would be easy to straighten it out and make a new ship lap for the fresh start.

I think you would have a better chance modifying the new strips you are laying down then trying to fix the ones you already have installed.  Snap a chalk line where the strips should end up in an ideal world then use your router with a T&G bit or even your rail saw to modify your tongues on the row you are installing.  The longer you wait to fix the problem the worse it will be. 

Well, the deed is done and aside from the nick I put in my 2700 rail, Im fairly satisfied with the results. The saw worked perfect but aligning the three rails perfectly on an uneven surface was a little tough so I did end up with a slight dip on one end but the joint is near perfect except for a slight difference in elevation probably due to cutting the tounge a little too narrow. It will get sanded smooth in the end anyways.

Thanks for the help!