Author Topic: ripping a live edge slab  (Read 18642 times)

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Offline lenick01

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ripping a live edge slab
« on: January 04, 2015, 12:03 PM »
I'm looking for some pointers on how to rip a 3 inch thick live edge slab.  I have a 10 foot long slab that's destined to become a dining room table.  Unfortunately, it's not wide enough per my significant other.  I'm planning on ripping it down the middle and essentially making a panel out of it by gluing in another foot wide 3 inch slab in the middle.

I thought about using a table saw but I think it would be nearly impossible due to the weight and size.  I have a TS 55 but won't get through the full thickness - maybe making a cut and then flipping it over?  I'm worried that I won't line up the 2 cuts properly.  Of course this might be an excuse to get a TS 75....

Any tips would be appreciated!

Mike

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Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2015, 12:08 PM »
A TS 75 on the guide rail will only go 70mm deep. That's 75mm - 5mm for the guide rail. It's about 2-3/4".

A Trion or Carvex with a 140mm blade and guide stop can do the job if the blade guides are set up properly.


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Offline Sparky

  • Posts: 158
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2015, 12:22 PM »
When I have done this with my 75 i always flipped it and had small amounts of plaining to get a nice joint.
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Offline PA floor guy

  • Posts: 284
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2015, 12:26 PM »
Since we cannot get sword saws here in the states, has anyone looked into the prazi sword saw add on.  You can install it on most worm drive circular saws.  Other than that, you need a big beam saw.

Offline G3Trim

  • Posts: 48
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2015, 12:28 PM »
You could rip it with your ts55. Then true up the cuts using a router and a strait edge guide. just use a 2" strait cutter with the strait edge, then flip it over and use a bottom ball bearing bit that's long enough to ride along the freshly cut edge to finish off the rest of the face.

Offline Holzhacker

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2015, 12:32 PM »
If I have to cut a thick piece from both sides to make it through and the cuts don't line up, its because I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention to which side of the pencil line the blade was supposed to go. Very rare since that mistake really ticks me off.
Take your time you can do this.
Draw your line on the top side, transfer down to the bottom side with a square for reference but don't actually draw the bottom line, cut the top side, draw and adjust your bottom pencil line based on how your top cut ended up running, cut away;
The key is to pay attention to blade position to the pencil line or guide rail position to your lines; unless you are an idiot (you are on the FOG so I'm assuming you can't be) you aren't going to screw it up drawing your pencil line, its a positioning issue
So often people don't think about the fact that your blade can end up centered on your pencil line or to the left or right of the pencil line; this also holds true for guide rail clamping, minute differences make a clean cut or ridged cut
You can use the 55 and a Trion with a long blade. That works fine but you should use your 55 on the top side and let the Trion cut the bottom. Depending on how well or not you cut using this combo there may be a lot more work in flattening the sides to mate the insert piece. Mating is another story though
On the other hand its an excuse to buy a 75 and then cut the last 1/4" with a good handsaw
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Offline ear3

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2015, 12:39 PM »
I would jigsaw it then use router with straight edge and spiral bit to straighten edge (if you don't have some combo of guide rails to give you 10 ft. of length).  Just make sure the edge is as square as possible to the other sides.  After you fit in the board though, you will probably have to do the same operation on the ends, meaning you could leave the middle piece long on both ends because you know you will be trimming the edge afterwards.
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Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2015, 12:40 PM »
A Trion or Carvex jigsaw with  S145/4 FSG, 499478, will do this in one pass using the guide stop. It has to be set up properly and use the max orbital.

It makes a nice, perpendicular cut 4"+ deep in hardwoods.


Tom
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Offline ear3

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2015, 12:46 PM »
Why the guide stop?

A Trion or Carvex jigsaw with  S145/4 FSG, 499478, will do this in one pass using the guide stop. It has to be set up properly and use the max orbital.

It makes a nice, perpendicular cut 4"+ deep in hardwoods.


Tom
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Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2015, 12:47 PM »
It runs on the guide rail and keeps the cut running straight.


Tom
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Offline waho6o9

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2015, 12:48 PM »
Use a Panther blade and you're good to go!

Offline ear3

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2015, 12:51 PM »
Got it.  For some reason I thought you meant those stops that you hook into the rail to prevent the tool from going past a certain point.

It runs on the guide rail and keeps the cut running straight.


Tom
Kapex KS 120 w/UG Cart and Extensions • CXS Set • T18+3 w/Centrotec Installer's Set • PDC 18/4 • TS 75 • TSC 55 • HKC 55 w/250, 420 and 670 FSK rails • Carvex 420 w/Accessory Kit • Domino 500 Set • Domino 700 XL • OF 2200 w/Base Accessory Kit • OF 1400 • OF 1010 • MFK 700 EQ Set • LR 32 • MFS 400 w/2000, 1000, and 700 extensions • Rotex 90 • Rotex 150 • LS 130 • ETS-EC 150/5 • ETS 150/3 • Pro 5 LTD • RTS 400 • RAS 115.04 • DX 93 • RS 2 • HL 850 • Vecturo OS 400 • CT 26 w/Long-Life Bag • CT Sys w/Long-Life Bag • MFT/3

Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2015, 12:51 PM »
It's odd wording but that's what Festool calls them...


Tom
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Offline ear3

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2015, 01:04 PM »
Probably just a translation issue.  The limit stop is the Rückschlagstop (literally kickback stop), and the guide stop is the Führungsanschlag, where -anschlag in this technical sense also gets translated as "stop."

It's odd wording but that's what Festool calls them...


Tom
Kapex KS 120 w/UG Cart and Extensions • CXS Set • T18+3 w/Centrotec Installer's Set • PDC 18/4 • TS 75 • TSC 55 • HKC 55 w/250, 420 and 670 FSK rails • Carvex 420 w/Accessory Kit • Domino 500 Set • Domino 700 XL • OF 2200 w/Base Accessory Kit • OF 1400 • OF 1010 • MFK 700 EQ Set • LR 32 • MFS 400 w/2000, 1000, and 700 extensions • Rotex 90 • Rotex 150 • LS 130 • ETS-EC 150/5 • ETS 150/3 • Pro 5 LTD • RTS 400 • RAS 115.04 • DX 93 • RS 2 • HL 850 • Vecturo OS 400 • CT 26 w/Long-Life Bag • CT Sys w/Long-Life Bag • MFT/3

Offline Staniam

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2015, 01:38 PM »
Can you provide a model number for the guide stop you're talking about?
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Offline ear3

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2015, 02:00 PM »
The guide stop is for the Trion.  You already have the rail adapter base for the Carvex.

http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/jigsaws/guides-and-stops/guide-stop-490031


Can you provide a model number for the guide stop you're talking about?
Kapex KS 120 w/UG Cart and Extensions • CXS Set • T18+3 w/Centrotec Installer's Set • PDC 18/4 • TS 75 • TSC 55 • HKC 55 w/250, 420 and 670 FSK rails • Carvex 420 w/Accessory Kit • Domino 500 Set • Domino 700 XL • OF 2200 w/Base Accessory Kit • OF 1400 • OF 1010 • MFK 700 EQ Set • LR 32 • MFS 400 w/2000, 1000, and 700 extensions • Rotex 90 • Rotex 150 • LS 130 • ETS-EC 150/5 • ETS 150/3 • Pro 5 LTD • RTS 400 • RAS 115.04 • DX 93 • RS 2 • HL 850 • Vecturo OS 400 • CT 26 w/Long-Life Bag • CT Sys w/Long-Life Bag • MFT/3

Online Birdhunter

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2015, 03:12 PM »
What does that piece weigh? Just amazed by the idea of flipping it over or even getting it into position to work with.
Birdhunter

Offline Dovetail65

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2015, 03:24 PM »
I would use the table saw for sure. But possibly you only have a little bench top table saw? With a proper out feed table its not a big deal at all.
The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.

Offline waho6o9

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2015, 03:42 PM »
" I'm worried that I won't line up the 2 cuts properly. "

You got this buddy, no worries u da man.  [thumbs up]

Offline WoodWhisperer

  • Posts: 175
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #19 on: January 04, 2015, 03:43 PM »
Some really good pointers for cutting thick wood.
Not to get off subject but where do you guys get your live edge timber?
Sean
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Offline WastedP

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #20 on: January 04, 2015, 03:44 PM »
You may not have this option where you live, but if I had to make the glue line cut you're describing in a slab that thick, I would load it up in my truck and take it across town to a local shop that has a Schelling beam saw.  They would charge about $20 to change the blade over and make that single cut, to a laser line, but it would be quick, and most importantly, clean.  I would also bring the new slab to have it cut to width, perfectly parallel.  Those two extra cuts might add a little more machine time, maybe five minutes.

I realize this solution doesn't provide you with the excuse to buy a TS 75, or any other tools.  Sorry.

Offline Tinker

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2015, 03:54 PM »
I would use the table saw for sure. But possibly you only have a little bench top table saw? With a proper out feed table its not a big deal at all.

I sure would not.

I like the idea of cutting to limit of the TS 55.  Then finishing from the top with jigsaw or hand saw.  The less that slab is moved after the partial cut, the better.  That is one of those projects where I always figure lawman Murphy is always looking over my shoulder.  I am sure that is a great looking slab.  One wrong move flipping to make second cut and there goes the ball game.  Making the cut on a table saw (remember, that is a live edge slab.  I am reasoning it is live edge on bothe edges) is possible as long as the operator is very skilled and has a very good (sawyer's) eye for lining up the cut right at the very start.  If someone is not used to making such a cut, there are all sorts of troubles to get into.  A 10 foot by 3 inch slab has got to be quite heavy in anybody's language. It was not mentioned what wood the slab is, but I bet it is not Balsa.  Not even Sitka Spruce.
Tinker
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Offline Dovetail65

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #22 on: January 04, 2015, 03:57 PM »
Why would he have to flip I thought this was only 3" thick? I have glued up stuff like this many times. I just guess my table saw is set up for stuff like this. 10 foot is no beg deal and a 3 Inch slab, I have a ship full of them in everything from Cumaru, Walnut  to Wenge. OWithh my Forest Woodworking blade blade I would have this ready for glue up right quick.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 03:59 PM by Dovetail65 »
The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.

Offline Tinker

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #23 on: January 04, 2015, 03:59 PM »
>>>You may not have this option where you live, but if I had to make the glue line cut you're describing in a slab that thick, I would load it up in my truck and take it across town to a local shop that has a Schelling beam saw.  They would charge about $20 to change the blade over and make that single cut, to a laser line, but it would be quick, and most importantly, clean.  I would also bring the new slab to have it cut to width, perfectly parallel.  Those two extra cuts might add a little more machine time, maybe five minutes.<<<

This idea came up while I was typing my last reply.
It is the best idea yet.
Tinker
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Offline Dovetail65

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #24 on: January 04, 2015, 04:00 PM »
Where do you live, no one does anything here for 20.00. I would charge a 100.00 to come to my shop an take my time like that. And I am betting most companies wont even deal with something like that. What if they screw that piece up, then they are on the line for the material for a 5.00 profit? Actually, I dont think I would even take the piece, there is no upside for me as a business. For FOG friend maybe not someone off the street.

Owl hardwood would do it, with a 2 week lead time. But only if you purchase from them and they wont guarantee a glue joint.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 04:04 PM by Dovetail65 »
The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.

Offline sumantamandal

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #25 on: January 04, 2015, 04:15 PM »
What is the length and width of this lumber?

Cheers!
Sumanta

Offline wow

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #26 on: January 04, 2015, 04:53 PM »
What is the length and width of this lumber?

And what species?
Trying to be one of the most helpful members on the FOG.

Offline Dovetail65

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #27 on: January 04, 2015, 05:08 PM »
He said about 10' and 3" thick, I can't find reference to width or species. I am guessing 18-30(max)".

Could find weight here if we knew more:

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=weight_bd_ft

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl
The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.

Offline Staniam

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #28 on: January 04, 2015, 05:23 PM »
The guide stop is for the Trion.  You already have the rail adapter base for the Carvex.

http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/jigsaws/guides-and-stops/guide-stop-490031


Can you provide a model number for the guide stop you're talking about?

Gotcha, just different names for each tool.
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Offline wow

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #29 on: January 04, 2015, 05:25 PM »
I just noticed that this was your first post. Sorry I didn't say it earlier, but...

[welcome] to the FOG!
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Offline Wooden Skye

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #30 on: January 04, 2015, 05:48 PM »
I would use the trion or carvex.  It seems whatever you do will need the edge cleaned up, so being able to do in one pass without flipping the board would be best in my opinion.
Bryan

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Offline Chris99

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #31 on: January 04, 2015, 05:48 PM »
I just went through the same process with my TS75. I was almost able to rip through my piece, which was 4" thick when I started.

If you decide to use your track saw and have to flip the piece over, I would suggest you make a shallow cut as your first cut and then make the flip. After that do another, deeper pass. This way the slab is still strong enough to withstand the flip.

Good luck. Show some photos if you can.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 05:50 PM by nerfball »

Offline BMH

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #32 on: January 04, 2015, 06:05 PM »
I did a live edge walnut shelves with the same issue. I did the cut with the TS55 flip it and did the same thing. You really need to mark the piece carefully and check 10 times before cutting. I was off by maybe 1/4-1mm along the whole 5 feet cut. Cleaned up the edges with a low angle jack plane. If I had to glue a couple of pieces together I would consider dominoing the pieces to keep them perfectly aligned. and reduce the amount of planing and sanding.

Offline lenick01

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2015, 11:23 PM »
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions.  I'm up in Kingston Ontario and doubt I'd find any fancy equipment around town.  I like the idea of the TS55/Carvex which allows me an excuse to buy yet another green tool but isn't nearly as spendy as the  TS75!

The slab is acutally white oak, 52" at it's widest and about 29" at the other end.  It likely weights somewhere around 300 pounds.  It was cut from a >400 year old perfectly healthy tree in Southern Ontario and was on the property of some guy who wanted a new house  in that spot.  The trunk was cut into 3 22 foot pieces, not a knot in any of them.  Personally I think it's a crime that a municipality would allow this but at least I can try and make something out of it that will keep it around for some years to come.

Offline JJ Wavra

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #34 on: January 04, 2015, 11:55 PM »
I would just use your 55 with a rip blade.  If you don't think you can get it lined up just offset the blade by about half  its width so that you go through but end up with a step.  Then use a router with a bottom bearing to clean up and flush the joint. The nice thing is you will only lose a little more than the kerf plus a little offset and will end up with a pretty clean joint.
JJ

Offline WastedP

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #35 on: January 05, 2015, 12:41 AM »
Where do you live, no one does anything here for 20.00. I would charge a 100.00 to come to my shop an take my time like that. And I am betting most companies wont even deal with something like that. What if they screw that piece up, then they are on the line for the material for a 5.00 profit? Actually, I dont think I would even take the piece, there is no upside for me as a business. For FOG friend maybe not someone off the street.

Owl hardwood would do it, with a 2 week lead time. But only if you purchase from them and they wont guarantee a glue joint.

Western Montana, where one out of every 217 residents is a cabinetmaker.  Supply may outstrip demand here.

The guys I have worked with won't turn away any work, they'll figure out a way to fit it in, it wouldn't be "while you wait".  They would charge me 15 minutes (that's their minimum), the machine rate last I checked was $165 per hour.   With the blade change, I could see those three cuts taking ten minutes.  That shop gives me a good price because I used to work there, and I bring them my business, as well as the occasional pie.   Making $5.00 off those three cuts would be better for them than having the machine idle and the operator doing clean up.  They would do it for anyone off the street, not just me.

They aren't on the line for the material if I pay for machine time for specific cuts.  If I wanted them to produce a specific product for me, as opposed to carrying out my instructions on my material, then I'm sure their prices would be a lot higher.  They definitely won't give a guarantee on the glue joint unless they glued it up themselves, but they do glue-ups from stock cut on their bridge saw without any additional machining.  If they cut a large slab down the middle and it let some tension out of the stock and it bowed, it would be up to you to figure out how to proceed.

Even if you figured in the cost of pies, it would be cheaper than buying a new tracksaw.

Offline wow

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #36 on: January 05, 2015, 05:00 AM »
Even if you figured in the cost of pies, it would be cheaper than buying a new tracksaw.

WastedP, I think you just just made a very logical argument against buying a tool.

What were you thinking?  [scared]

Just kidding, of course. And as far as the bribery, I personally use fudge...
« Last Edit: January 05, 2015, 05:58 AM by wow »
Trying to be one of the most helpful members on the FOG.

Offline Pixel

  • Posts: 133
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #37 on: January 05, 2015, 05:46 AM »
I'm looking for some pointers on how to rip a 3 inch thick live edge slab.  I have a 10 foot long slab that's destined to become a dining room table.  Unfortunately, it's not wide enough per my significant other.  I'm planning on ripping it down the middle and essentially making a panel out of it by gluing in another foot wide 3 inch slab in the middle.

I thought about using a table saw but I think it would be nearly impossible due to the weight and size.  I have a TS 55 but won't get through the full thickness - maybe making a cut and then flipping it over?  I'm worried that I won't line up the 2 cuts properly.  Of course this might be an excuse to get a TS 75....

Any tips would be appreciated!

Mike

Forget all the option apart from your favoured option, buy a TS 75, by far the better saw, you can then retire your underpowered 55 to the back of the shop

Offline kcufstoidi

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #38 on: January 05, 2015, 07:21 AM »
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions.  I'm up in Kingston Ontario and doubt I'd find any fancy equipment around town.  I like the idea of the TS55/Carvex which allows me an excuse to buy yet another green tool but isn't nearly as spendy as the  TS75!

The slab is acutally white oak, 52" at it's widest and about 29" at the other end.  It likely weights somewhere around 300 pounds.  It was cut from a >400 year old perfectly healthy tree in Southern Ontario and was on the property of some guy who wanted a new house  in that spot.  The trunk was cut into 3 22 foot pieces, not a knot in any of them.  Personally I think it's a crime that a municipality would allow this but at least I can try and make something out of it that will keep it around for some years to come.

There is good woodworkers group in Kingston you should make contact with. There are many ways to cut your piece but to do it accurately for gluing find someone with a large sliding table saw. It makes the cuts safe, accurate and easy,  I know of one person in that club that has the right saw for this work. Festool saws are good for a lot of projects but unfortunately this isn't one of them.

John

Offline rvieceli

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #39 on: January 05, 2015, 07:45 AM »
I'm going to be contrary, not just to be contrary but because I believe it.

DON"T RIP IT APART.

I work in slabs all the time and that sounds like a magnificent slab. For a dining room table, your fifty two inch end is probably going to be to wide. For many people a width between 30 and 42 inches is more than acceptable. We are currently using a 30 inch wide DR table and it works fine.

Since you will have to figure out the rip, take some time to rethink the plan. That is a massive table. Are you going to keep the overall length around the ten foot mark?

Many folks can't visualize these pieces in their home environment. I'd suggest one of two things. If you can wrestle the piece into the spot it will occupy then haul it in and lay it on some sawhorses or the existing table and live with it for a while.

If that won't work, then throw a couple of pieces of plywood or maybe foam board under the slab. Trace the outline and cut it out with a jig saw and flop that in your space.

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #40 on: January 05, 2015, 09:35 AM »
I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of the slab ...
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline Tinker

  • Posts: 3519
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #41 on: January 05, 2015, 12:04 PM »
I'm going to be contrary, not just to be contrary but because I believe it.

DON"T RIP IT APART.

I work in slabs all the time and that sounds like a magnificent slab. For a dining room table, your fifty two inch end is probably going to be to wide. For many people a width between 30 and 42 inches is more than acceptable. We are currently using a 30 inch wide DR table and it works fine.

Since you will have to figure out the rip, take some time to rethink the plan. That is a massive table. Are you going to keep the overall length around the ten foot mark?

Many folks can't visualize these pieces in their home environment. I'd suggest one of two things. If you can wrestle the piece into the spot it will occupy then haul it in and lay it on some sawhorses or the existing table and live with it for a while.

If that won't work, then throw a couple of pieces of plywood or maybe foam board under the slab. Trace the outline and cut it out with a jig saw and flop that in your space.

a lot of people think about the maximum crowd they might have and they over build.  Then they have a table that is somewhat overbearing for every day use or even for the occassional  times when they might have 3 or 4 extra people for a meal or two.  Maybe once a year will they have the number they figured on.  Some people will compensate for excess company by crowding a little bit.  We always went that route.  If crowding was too crowded, we set out a card table or two.  Others will be quite happy with a largely oversized table and try to stay within the limits of table without crowding.  They would be quite happy with too much space for the every day use.  It just depends on what they will be satisfied with.
Tinker
Wayne H. Tinker

Offline Tom Bellemare

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #42 on: January 05, 2015, 12:57 PM »
I have a friend who's a successful attorney and who bought a really big, fancy cherry dining room table. All I've ever seen on it was overflow, bulk groceries and unorganized laundry fresh from the drier...


Tom
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Offline Tinker

  • Posts: 3519
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #43 on: January 05, 2015, 01:14 PM »
I have a friend who's a successful attorney and who bought a really big, fancy cherry dining room table. All I've ever seen on it was overflow, bulk groceries and unorganized laundry fresh from the drier...
Tom

Tom, were you looking in our house? [scared] Our table is not over sized.  BUT all the rest-----
Tinker
Wayne H. Tinker

Offline Joseph C

  • Posts: 260
    • Integrity Design+Build
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #44 on: January 05, 2015, 02:12 PM »
By far the best suggestion thus far:

I'm going to be contrary, not just to be contrary but because I believe it.

DON"T RIP IT APART.

I work in slabs all the time and that sounds like a magnificent slab. For a dining room table, your fifty two inch end is probably going to be to wide. For many people a width between 30 and 42 inches is more than acceptable. We are currently using a 30 inch wide DR table and it works fine.

Since you will have to figure out the rip, take some time to rethink the plan. That is a massive table. Are you going to keep the overall length around the ten foot mark?

Many folks can't visualize these pieces in their home environment. I'd suggest one of two things. If you can wrestle the piece into the spot it will occupy then haul it in and lay it on some sawhorses or the existing table and live with it for a while.

If that won't work, then throw a couple of pieces of plywood or maybe foam board under the slab. Trace the outline and cut it out with a jig saw and flop that in your space.
TS75, OF1010, PS300, Domino500, MFT/3, CT22 + WCR, CT MIDI, RS2e, RO150, ETS150, DS400, RO90, Grex 2" micropinner (festool green), and packing everything else into systainers, too.

Offline Joseph C

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Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #45 on: January 05, 2015, 02:19 PM »
The TS75 is going to be your best bet for not screwing up ;)
Jigsaw blades, even the fanciest Carvex blades, can deflect; one very minor tip of the router with a 3" long bit will be a bigger error at its far end.
If I had to make such a cut, and presuming all is planed flat/parallel, I would make the rips (two, right next to each other) with the track saw and then rough cut the waste.  Use a router with flush trim bit from the other side to clean up the last ~1/4" of depth that the saw couldn't hit.

But again, I think not touching it is best.
TS75, OF1010, PS300, Domino500, MFT/3, CT22 + WCR, CT MIDI, RS2e, RO150, ETS150, DS400, RO90, Grex 2" micropinner (festool green), and packing everything else into systainers, too.

Offline lenick01

  • Posts: 3
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #46 on: January 05, 2015, 02:40 PM »
If it was up to me, I wouldn't touch it either!  Things don't always go my way unfortunately.

We actually do use the 8 foot table we have now to most of its capacity on a regular basis.  We will likely end up losing some length as I'm planning on inserting a walnut slab that's closer to 9 feet long, making it look like a wooden dining room table runner.

Offline blk65brd

  • Posts: 57
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #47 on: January 05, 2015, 03:27 PM »
Sean,
Here in the Pacific Northwet you simply need to check craigslist, there are numerous suppliers of live edge slabs.
Richard

Some really good pointers for cutting thick wood.
Not to get off subject but where do you guys get your live edge timber?
Sean

Offline sunmtnforge

  • Posts: 1
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #48 on: January 22, 2017, 05:04 PM »
To anyone with suggestions: I need to cut one side off of a live edge 3 1/4" thick 40"x12' long fir slab.  I work alone and it is rather heavy and prefer not to turn it.  The cut is not straight and has several right angles (I will hand finish the 90 degree corners) to it but needs to be perpendicular.  Half of it needs to connect with another slab.  After reading this article I am considering buying a cheap(15$ China) 2 flute(3 inches long) straight router bit and try to cut down around 2 3/4" on the first pass then dropping the bit to pick up the last 1/2 inch or so.  I don't want to spend a lot of money on a new tool that I won't use very often(but will consider any options).  Does anyone out there have any ideas?  Thank you for your consideration.

Offline Poindexter

  • Posts: 143
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #49 on: January 22, 2017, 05:30 PM »
I do this all the time in super hard woods.  And the best suggestion has already been stated, but if you want to spend money buy a rip blade for the TS55.  Make the cut you want, flip it over and make the same cut from the other side.  If you don't nail it, then a little edge sanding, a few runs on the jointer, or some hand planing will make it glue ready.

A rip blade with less teeth will make short work of oak and shouldn't give you any kickback. 

Offline Kee Squared

  • Posts: 7
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #50 on: January 22, 2017, 05:36 PM »
Straight edge clamped to the piece. Circular saw first cut full depth of the blade. Jigsaw or Sawzall the remainder staying close to the cut off side of the cut. Hand plane the edge flat or use a sander. If you want it perfect buy a track saw and get help to flip the piece over. I wouldn't recommend using the router to make the cut. From my experience routers can get unwieldy when making deep dados. If anything use the router to make the clean up pass.

Offline willips

  • Posts: 2
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #51 on: April 05, 2017, 02:17 AM »
Wouldn't an HK85 on a rail have nailed this?

Offline Upscale

  • Posts: 719
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #52 on: April 05, 2017, 06:03 AM »
I'm looking for some pointers on how to rip a 3 inch thick live edge slab.  I have a 10 foot long slab that's destined to become a dining room table.

Sounds like you could use a bandsaw and a suitable hand plane.
DF 500 Q Domino, CT22, Carvex PSBC 420 Jigsaw, 7 systainers and several accessories. I'm just a rank Festool beginner, but I'm trying hard. :) Oh yeah, now that I own a FOG hat 2011 edition, I guess I'm not such a beginner anymore.

Offline egmiii

  • Posts: 49
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #53 on: April 05, 2017, 09:03 AM »
I'd suggest finding someone local with a sliding table saw. Place slab on table, clamp, push, done.

Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 523
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #54 on: April 05, 2017, 10:04 AM »
Since we cannot get sword saws here in the states, has anyone looked into the prazi sword saw add on.  You can install it on most worm drive circular saws.  Other than that, you need a big beam saw.

In addition to the Prazi beam cutter, there are also a variety of chain saw mill attachments for chain saws that would make quick work of this job.  The straightness of the cut depends on the quality of the ripping jig, which you must make yourself.

Or, for less than the cost of a [TS75/85 or OF2200 or Domino 700] + dust extractor + long rails + accessories, you can just buy the whole mill: https://woodlandmills.ca/us/product/722-portable-sawmill/ or http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Portable-Sawmills/Logosol-Portable-Sawmills/Logosol-M8-Chainsaw-Mills/.  No need for a ripping jig.

I've always wanted to get one of these, but since I now have more local urban lumber than I will ever use before I kick the bucket, I can't justify it.

Offline dmccririe

  • Posts: 25
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #55 on: April 07, 2017, 08:24 AM »
Some really good pointers for cutting thick wood.
Not to get off subject but where do you guys get your live edge timber?
Sean

I have quite a few sawmills near me.  I go there and tell them what I want and they point it out or acquire it for me.

Offline David Dublin

  • Posts: 3
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #56 on: April 08, 2017, 09:26 PM »
Use the ts 55 then the slot created will be easy to guide a trion/carvex though and jut the last inch . Then flip the halves and use a bearing guided flush cut bit in your router to leave the jigsaw cut flush with the ts55 cut .? Or the HK 85 looks nice [big grin]
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 09:31 PM by David Dublin »

Offline demographic

  • Posts: 311
Re: ripping a live edge slab
« Reply #57 on: April 09, 2017, 07:04 AM »
I'd put a fiver on it being roughsawn so by the time its even close to being surfaced flattish it will be small enough to do with a TS75.

There you are, the excuse you need to buy a TS 75.

You can thank me later.