one of the design elements I like to incorporate in my pieces are (usually) stretchers with shallow curves.



In the above, the curve extends over 26" but is only 1/4" deep at it's widest part.

In the past I have used a Lee Valley Drawing Bow, but it's difficult to use with only 2 hands and impossible for such shallow curves.

Ideally I'd like to be able to mark with a pencil and then cut with router these curves (usually I cut close to the line with a bandsaw and then smooth to the line by hand).

I've looked with interest at this thread regarding cutting ellipses / ovals and am intrigued by the jigs, but not sure it would work in my situation.

Anyone have experience with similar or have advice?

thanks

Carl

I use the Bows and have two, they work well.

Woodgeek the string trick should work fine with that curve you need. But I have never tried it with such a stretched out ellipse before. The problem is you would need the string really long and the two nails so far apart it may not be feasible. That curve makes a HUGE oval.

I'll look up a method in my book and see what it has to say about it. I know I read a sure fire method to make those subtle curves I just can not remember off hand.

Chris nailed it.  Those bending curves are sweet. 
 
If you want to route from a template, consider this to overcome the grain direction issue:

Make your template a couple of inches long on each side.

Once your template is fair and smooth, make a copy, using a pattern bit on a router.  Actually make a few copies in case of damage, etc.

Use double stick tape to put all the templates together in line.  On the drill press drill a hole that will fit your dowels in the extra space on each end.

Separate the templates.

Put one on the workpiece with a little doublestick.  Go back to the drill press and drill through the workpiece where you have the holes.  Place a long dowel through the template and the workpiece.  Place a second template on the bottom of the workpiece using the dowel for alignment. 

Trim the dowel if its long enough to get in your way, but leave a little stub to ease removal.

Now you have a template on both the top and bottom.  When you come to a place where the grain goes in the wrong direction, just flip it end for end and keep trucking with the reversed grain.  I usually mark where to route on each template.

Its probably a good idea to do this on scrap first.  If the piece doesn't come out smooth and square, you probably didn't drill the hole at exactly 90 degrees.

If you are making a lot of these, its probably worth making a carrier board to clamp the piece on and keep your hands far away from the sharp spinny stuff.
Hope this helps.

Jess

Katana are the premium MLCS bits.

I have tons and I love them.

I have never had one go dull or break since 2001.

That just a variation on the nail and string method.