Pic 4: Dust control is handled by a CT22 sitting on a stand I had around (actually an old table saw stand, the saw died but I have trouble throwing anything away), the arm is simple 3/4" PVC piping (also lying around) it's a bit too flexible on it's own, so I dropped about 30" of 3/8" threaded bar (also lying around the shop - are you seeing a trend here?) into the top end to stiffen up the lower section, it's simply bolted to the steel frame of the stand, I use one sacrificial nylon tie through a hole near the outer (top) end to hold the vac hose and power cord in place, (this stops the hose from sliding through the supports) then a series of velcro strips to support the rest of the length of both (vac and power).

Pic 5: the shop vac on it's cheap support stand, I find hold the CT at table height gives me enough hose to work tools all over the 8'+ x 4'+ table, the flex in the PVC allows easy movement while keeping the cord and hose out of my way without too much pull.

Pic 9, 10, and 11: Lengthways cuts on a full sheet are done by measuring and marking positions of the cut at each end of the plywood panel, then dropping the fill length rail lengthways on the marks, you'll see a long cut in progress (since it's a one man shop what you actually see is  where i left the saw to go take the picture, but you get the idea).

Note that the flexible boom easily allows the cord and hose to reach all areas of the table without sagging to the tabletop to get in the way and without pulling hard enough to spoil any operations.

Pic 14: The reason the cutting table top needs to slide is to clear the flip top that my planer is mounted to, in this pic you see the planer mounted nicely out of my way upside down under the table, once the cutting surface is slid down about 20", the flip top (A section of the table top normally under the cutting surface) can be flipped over moving the planer into position above the table (and right side up), this operation takes a few seconds (including hooking up dust control) so I find it an ideal place for my planer to live.

Pic 15: This is a closeup of the left side stop, here you see it set up to cut at 13 1/2" - The scale is set to read the distance between the right edge of the stop and the right (cutting side) or the rail when is position against the stops on the table.

Pic 16: The rail in position, it sit's with the left edge against the hard maple stop built into the fence...

Pic 17: and the far end against another hard maple stop, these two stops on the table ensure that the rail is exactly at right angles to the fence, so if the piece to be cut is against the fence my cut will be a perfect right angle also.

Pic 21: Here's the piece after the cut, notice the 1/4" strip cut is automatically straight and has no taper because the scrap used like all pieces around my shop (parts, offcuts, jigs, etc) are ALWAYS square because everything is cut against the fence on this table, it took some valuable time away from production to build this cutting table, but the benefits in accuracy make the time spent pay off every day,m something as simple as being able to relay on every piece of scrap from the bin having exact right angles is an enormous time saver (I use scraps of 3/4 for routing the profiles in the end of rails for 5 piece doors, support for thin strip cutting operations (as shown above), it's great just to be able to grab a piece of scrap and know it's square.

Pic 22: for clarity, here's the cut 1/4" strip moved away from the rail. If I need more than one strip I'm already set up to cut multiple strips by simply sliding the stock panel to the stop and cutting again.

Eric, I kept the table fairly low to maximize reach, I just measured from the fence to the saw handle at maximum reach, it's 43".

I have no trouble reaching that far, but I'm 6'2" do some measurements if your height is different (your mileage may vary, as they say in the car adds).

Bear in mind that the table is at waist height for me, that means I'm covering some of that reach by leaning over the table as I cut, it's not a stretch when I get to the end of the cut. (although my GF at 5'2" would require a re-design to be ble to use it, but i think that would simply be making the table lower)

Pic 26: Once the planer is upright...

Pic 26: rotate the tabs out to the side to lock in place.

Pic 27: the power cord is routed through the top and ends up inside the cabinet whichever way the top is, so I don't have to wrestle with the cord while rotating the top.

Thanks for the kind words John.

Just a couple more things to point out on the table....

Pic 28: The rear tabs are now also on top of the table (if your following the logic here, all four locking tabs are under the table when the planer is stored and all above the table when the planer is in use, since they do not affect operation of the planer (or any other machines mounted this way) the tabs are out of the way when the table top is clear (all tools folded away) the reason I  mention this is that the table is suitable for all kinds of table top machine, I also have flip tops in this table for a pair of router tables, but do not us them in this configuration at the moment.

Pic 29: Edge on view of the front edge of the flip top, (sorry about the focus - or lack of it) but I think you can see the relevant details, the top of the entire table is a sandwich of two pieces of 5/8" MDF with 1/2" MDF in the middle. this means that the flip top shown here is one piece of 5/8" MDF, with two pieces of 1/2" MDF cut to leave a 1/2 gap in the middle of the panel, then 2nd single slab of 5/8" on top, this leaves a 1/2" square hole through the width of the panel top accept a length of 1/2" steel rod (from Home Depot) to act as a pivot for the flip top. The edges are re-inforced with  piece of 3/4" x 1 1/4" pine to give a bit of extra support (though Maple would be ideal, pine is what I had at the time). The board stock is drilled to accept the 1/2" steel rod in the center (actually, I cut the strips oversize and drilled the hole then mounted them in place with the rod inserted, then trimmed the ends, I found it easier to get a smooth edge that way.

Everything is coated multiple times in whatever poly I had left over from cabinet jobs at the time,

Thanks allot for sharing this Steve.  You have given me a bunch of ideas to incorporate into my table WHEN I build it. 

Frank,

Thanks for the kind words. I wouldn't trade my cutting table for any
tablesaw I've seen anywhere.

I use an infeed table which is simply two heavy duty stands with a
plywood top framed with 4" skirt of 3/4" ply to keep it flat. The infeed
table is a little shorter than the cutting table height making it easy
to slide sheets onto the cutting table single handed. I unload
deliveries of 3/4 stock from the supplier directly onto the infeed
table.

BTW, I use a couple of quick and dirty racks made from 2" x 4"s to hold
other sheet goods, I need to keep everything flat otherwise even prime
quality plywood warps (which makes it useless for slab doors). The racks
are made from 4 pieces of 2x4", 4' long making the long sides of two
triangles, the base of the triangles is a furniture dolly from Harbor
Freight which come carpeted on the short sides, The carpet ends up under
the edge of the plywood on the racks which protects the edges and makes
sure they can't slip off the rack. My 2x4s are screwed through the
bottom of the dolly into the lower ends of the 2x4s and the the two are
screwed together at the top. two complete dolly/racks hold several
sheets of plywood and roll around easily when fully loaded.

I also screw scraps between the triangles to keep them upright and
several at different heights between the legs of each triangle to make a
rack for board stock.

Back to the cutting table: I considered making the top with a 4"
skirt/frame to make it rigid or even MDF on the top and bottom of the 4"
frame to make a torsion box so I could pivot the top at the center of
each end to ease loading and cutting, But after some experimenting I
found the Festool rails work best when flat and level, and the infeed
table makes loading very easy. (plus you can't beat a good, solid table
when it comes time to assemble the big cabinets, I'm passed the age when
I like to crawl around on my knees when working).

The only downside I have found to the current design is that the
operator has to have long arms, you have to be able to reach pretty much
across a 4' piece of ply at the table height, mine is perfect for my
reach (because the table is shorter than my waist) but my shorter
assistants have trouble with it. (and my 5'2" girlfriend/partner would
have to crawl across the table to be able to make a 4' cut).

On productivity I've got tablesaws beat cold, you could probably come up
with effective carts to move and load sheets onto the tablesaw (I've
seen some nice tilting cart designs that would work) but you still have
to slide and rotate a pretty hefty sheet around to cut it up.

The whole advantage with the Festool approach is that what we really
need to do is move a blade with it's power source and a heavy sheet of
material past each other accurately and in a straight line. It seems to
be so much smarter to move the lighter one of the two. (the saw)

Two doors down from me used to be another cabinet shop, he had a nice
$1,800 table saw setup in the middle of his shop, he politely refrained
from laughing at me when he visited and introduced himself while was I
setting up shop with Festools.

We used to visit back and fourth regularly, I learned that a standard
kitchen took him a week to ten days from design to assembly...

and he learned that it took me two or three days to do the same.

He's not there any more, I kind of miss visiting with him, He's now
working for someone else, probably still pushing sheets through  a
tablesaw. maybe he tells his new co-workers about this crazy idiot who
makes kitchens with a circular saw. maybe they all laugh together about
that story, I don't mind.

Most of the time I cut the crosscuts first, then rotate each piece to
cut to length (for example cabinet sides and decks are usually 23 1/4"
deep (complete cabs plus 3/4" doors are 24" deep), I cheat and make the
cabs total 24" because anything less than 24" means I get twice the
material usage (half the width of the sheet less kerf).

So I cut off 30 1/2" from the end of a sheet, spin it long side against
the fence and set the stop to 23 1/4", cut twice and I have two cabinet
sides and a skinny (minimal waste) offcut.

Set those on the parts rack and slide the rest of the sheet down to the
stop set at my cabinet width (say 22 1/2" for a 24" cab), cut another
slice and then again spin it long side against the fence, set the stop
to 23 1/4" and cut the deck, then set the right stop to 3" and cut three
stretchers from the offcut, and then set the right stop to 4" and cut
two toekicks/bases....

I just made a cabinet!

The grain is all the right direction (vertical on the sides, horizontal
across the deck and stretchers). and I made minimal waste.

draw out those pieces and imagine the steps you'd go through to make
them on a table saw. same number of cuts but I'm sliding and slamming
the pieces around on a piece of MDF with no blade and movable fence to
avoid (my fence stays securely screwed to the front of the table) The
MDF will not hurt the working material - even if it's already finished,
neither will the saw. and I'm only moving the minimum sized piece to
make each cut. and I don't have to worry about supporting the ends, I
don't have to catch the offcuts, I don't even have to pick them up, I
slide 'em off the end of the table into the scrap bin.

I think if you made the table rigid enough it could easily be on wheels
(or casters) don't go cheap on the casters, get good strong locking ones
(the ones that lock the swivel too) because you'll need the table to
stay in place while sliding a sheet onto it.

One further thought, My top is replaceable, I made the fence from Hard
maple and Kreg (pocket) screwed it to the top (pocket holes under the
front edge of the top into the fence) in other words the fence is
against the edge of the top, not sitting on it, this give me maximum
width which will actually hold another sheet of MDF (which comes one
inch bigger then 8' x 4' in both dimensions). The top with fence
attached is simply sitting on the table, the actual top of the table
(under the cutting surface) is a sandwich of several pieces of MDF 5/8"
- 1/2" - 5/8") reasons for which I think I covered in the description on
FOG.

Hope all this helps.

Steve

Missed a question: you also asked about how it handles hardwoods.

It handles hardwoods great, I don't much like the edge I was getting with the Festool Panther blade, cuts reasonably quick but I like all my cuts to be ready for assembly (sanding and jointing while great fun take too long - and I don't own a jointer)  I recently received a Tenryu blade for evaluation (which I haven't written yet) but the thing is awesome! its what the Panther should be, rip cuts fast in hardwood with an edge as perfect as the fine Festool blade in plywood (and it doesn't eat the edge strip from your rail like the panther does). And I understand it will be cheaper. Thanks Tenryu - nice one

Old carpenters trick for aligning any power saw to square, works for miter saws and radial arm saws.

Place a scrap of the widest material the saw will cut (about 8" for my miter saw, 4' for the cutting table) preferably as long as the fence and cut it in the middle, flip the offcut piece away from you (the cut edges stay together, the edge that was towards you is now away from you), slide the pieces together and look at the join, if it does not taper at either end you are set perfect. if any taper appears forming a gap adjust and re-cut until the join is tight.

BTW this also works for the MFT.

I use two sizes of dado, 1/4 for drawer bottoms and cabinet backs and 1/2" for drawer sides. the 1/4" are usually done with two passes of the TS on the table (I usually use a scrap shim to put between the workpiece and stop on the first cut, remove it and slide up for the second, means all my dados end up in the same place and the same width.

For the 1/2" it quicker (and much messier) to use an old radial arm saw (you can pick these up very cheap, nobody wants them anymore, mine was given to me) I leave a dado blade set to 1/2" on the saw with the blade turned sideways (parallel to the fence) and 3/8" from the fence - that way I can quickly feed any drawer parts through the saw without any measuring or setup involved, the radial arm saw's main disadvantage is the mess it makes.

Steve,

Absolute dream setup....
Can't imagine how incredibly useful this setup must be...
Your table is so well thought out... You have truly captured the ideal situation...
I don't have much space... that I can dedicate to a table.. but if I did this would be it.. hands down!!!

Did you ever think about an actual bissemeyer fence... or unifence or something that would stick into the table more than the kreg stop?
You could use it to gang cut face frames etc...
The complication... would be that you would have to have some sort of rail imbedded in the table in front of it that you could slide stops to the right of the fence to pull your boards against..

The only extra advantage would be to crosscut more than one board at once... just an idea...not sure if it is worth dealing with the stops to the right of the fence...

Unless there is a table saw fence that the actual rail that the fence rides on is raised enough to pull boards against...

Jeff,

That setup on your mitre saw sounds great... unfortunately I don't have a great fence there.. Your table has inspired me to make a narrower version for crosscutting only.. Right now everything has to be portable..my mitre is on a ridgid msuv... and I have a ridgid portable table saw.. so you can see why I want to use the guide to rip full sheets... and crosscutting is the one gap that I need to fix... as the capacity for sleds on my ts wouldn't be safe.. and not nearly as fun.. I wan't to get rolling on a new project for my home.... Unfortunately, I can't work with wood for a living yet!!! maybe someday.. anyway...

So what I was planning was to make a crosscutting table about 24" deep by 8 foot long... make a front and rear fence like yours with a cutout for the guide.. that I can just setup on sawhorses or a folding table and start cutting...

would 3/4 mdf, or plywood, or a prefab laminate counter top be best for this? what material should I use for the front and rear fence?  was it hard to get the slots where you place the rail square?

Do you find when you pull pieces toward the front fence to cut that there is risk of movement of the rail or piece.. I heard it is much better to push the work against the far fence to prevent this... do you clamp down the piece or the rail? Or is this a non issue...

Any direction would be appreciated......

Ping pong table... 5ft wide by 9ft long...30" height.. very promising...
Oh yea... tried my reach across the table... not quite 4'...
solution.. stand on a stool... lean over the table... put left hand down to support your weight.... not an issue...

I use this http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=3791.0

with a fence made of plywood.

The square precision is about 0,0039" on a 23" length +- 0,0078 the error of my measurement tool.

note: i can also cut really small piece.

I updated it a little i have to post new pics.

regards

Q1: Yes the rail is clamped with a FS RAPID to the bridge. It's faster
Q2: and it is blocked on the stops
Q3: I don't move the piece but the TS55

Q4: The bridge is plywood & the stops are  mdf + i use my of 1400 + parallel guide 

How do i setup it:
 I "normalize" my blocker fence. I use only one side as my reference.
I draw a on my blocker fence a square line. i ajdust my blocker fence on my reference side
the i clamped the rail & adjust the stop.
Do the cut.

How do i use it:
the part of the piece to keep is always under the rail.
For the first piece.
I measure from the left side the width i want (do it with an incra T rule).
Then to adjust the rail i slide down the bridge as the stops stop on the piece to cut. (do it for each foot of the bridge )
Ok now i've my height setted.
I put my blocker fence against the piece clamp the rail and cut.

The next piece is easy

another hint i clamp my mft on a workmate b&d 550. I remove the removable jaw and place my table. This is why there some part under the table.

a picture.

The rail is not attached in any way before it is clamped.
Then the FS RAPID clamp it.

The two pieces go under the rail.
 I attached two picture to help you figure out how it works.

I think you're right ! the steve's table is better.
I use mine because i don't have room for more. But sure if i have more room one day i'll built the steve's one

The table is 23" wide and i use a FS1400, it's really comfortable. The FS800 is too small.

regards.

I feel a good idea but I don't understand it. You lost me with your natural english ;-) (i'm french)
What kind of strip ? Wood, steel, plastic, ...

Hopefully tomorrow I will have my cutting table based on Steve's done, or almost done at least!  I will post pics once it is finished.

I keep recommending Festool's right angle rails called a parallel stop - here I go again.

http://www.festool.co.uk/artikel/artikel_weiterleiten.cfm?id=998&CFID=348668&CFTOKEN=81458536&jsessionid=2a30f64c7c5c77325566TR

Yeah, but when will we have it over here.?

NAINA

Hi,
Many thanks Jeff, really nice idea. Your sketch is fine.
Now i know what i have to do just patch my jig ;-)

Sparky...
I am eagerly awaiting your table pics
Hope it's going well...
Jeff

Pci,
Awesome, let me know if it worked... I just ordered my system from bob marino online.. ts55 extra 55 rail, connectors, ct-22, 2 screw clamps and a fs-rapid thanks to you... my table parts.. incra track, super track, and different clamps are coming from woodpeckers next week... cant wait...

If that clamp works well, with the stops you have created an awesome home- made bridge....

Hey steve,
Do you make a crosscut on the first edge of ply when you slide it in .... or do you just count on the ply being square from the supplier...?

If its not obvious in the pictures, I made the cabinet base out of four seperate cabinets.  That way it will be easier to move whenever I finally am able to build my shop on my property.  (I am using my dad's pole barn right now.)

This table is so sturdy, I could probably put a bench vise on it!
The mdf top is easily replaceable whenever it gets too cut up.
The drawers are just 3/4 ply with 1/2 ply edging to keep the systainers in place.  The drawer guides are just basic blum, nothing fancy.  Would love to have nice ball bearing guides, but don't really feel the cost would be worth it here.
The base is only 44" deep, so there is clamping area all the way around.
Having the boom arm for the CT22 just makes everything work so smooth.
If I had the space, I would try to make this bench 10' long, as opposed to 8'.  It would give me more area to the left of the cutting notch-out.  Right now, the guide rail location is 36" from the right of the table, so 60" from the left.  It would just be nice to have a couple extra feet on the left for another section of Kreg fence for longer cuts.  Its not a major thing though.
Right now, I have 10 Systainers stored in the cabinets on drawers.  I have room for probably 12-20 more, depending on the size.  Now if I only had that much money. . .
I probably have as much invested in this table as I would have had in one Systainer storage cart from Festool.   

sparky.
Stunning!!!
Man, you don't mess around.
Great looking space..
Great job on the base..
I Was in my garage today.. starting to put together my temporary table that I can break down...and park a car..
I'm feeling very inadequate!!!
But I hopefully will still be able to get square results..
I bought an incra fence with a shopstop... hopefully it will work as well as the kreg fence.. hope I didn't make a mistake..
Thanks again to steve jones...
Sparky love to hear how your first cuts go...
Great job..inspiring.

Richard ...
you are right...10 foot would be ideal.....having extra room for the offcut on both sides...

I just spent the day finishing my temporary table setup...
All the parts came in from woodpeckers...
And my ts55, ct22, and rails..
wish I had bought the second rail at 75 stead of 55.. oh well..

I am blown away by the function of the table.. and the feeling and precision of the saw... combined with the ct-22 pleasure to use...
I also am very impressed with the incra track.. and stop shop... it clicks and locks at each 1/32 increment... so even if you come back to it at a later date.. you can dial in the exact measurement...

I used bungee cords hanging from the ceiling for my hose and cord.. works well
I also hung an air hose to blow dust off the table.
I will try and post some pics soon..

Table looks so nice...dreading making all those long rip cuts on it...lol.. but I might throw down some insulation for those...
Thanks again Steve...

I have been trying to upload photos..
each photo is 2mb .......too large to upload.. any ideas on how to reduce the size of the file to upload pics?

Ok, my garage is gross, never finished the wainscoating.. will be a lot easier to finish now!!
Here are some pics of my steve jones inspired setup...
Needed to be able to put it together and break it down quickly.... probably will take 5-10 minutes to do...

I used two pairs of sawhorses with 2x4's as the base.. will probably make some rolling cabinets..but for now sawhorses are really easy for me to store.. very sturdy.. even stood on the table to screw eye bolts in the ceiling...

Here you can see basic set-up..
2 doors both 6'8" one is 30" wide one is 24" wide.
clamped together at first..then I attached the incra track fence on the front...it's 1 1/2 tall so i added a 3/4 strip underneath to bring it to the same height as the mdf.. also I don't think I will ever need it taller than that..
and used 3/4"mdf pieces on top.. through bolted and attached with wing nuts.. so they wouldn't move and easily removable.
woodpecker super tracks... were used for clamping.. they are amazing.. and versatile.. they are attached with hex nuts.. and thumbscrews underneath..
I simply loosen them and slide them back out of the way when ripping.... very easy..

Very nice, and quick to set up!  If I didn't have room for the table I built, I would probably do something similar to yours.  Whenever you are able to make your rolling cabinets, you could make them like mini sysports!    Then, whenever you are done with the table you could just roll them right out of the way, but they are still useful for holding your systainers.  

Here you can see the setup for full sheet rips..just push the sheet against the fence.. and use story sticks... easy and very accurate.. I did have to take a small slice off the edge of the sheet first.. found out that they really aren't straight from the lumberyard!!

sparky,
No doubt on the rolling cabinets.. your storage is amazing!!!  I am green with envy..

Jesus,
I just can't imagine how an mft could be more useful.. with the exception of mitre cuts... even then it would be no problem to add a mitre slot in a cutting table.. I just cut up a zillion cabinet parts today.. accurate and easy... no need at all for any extra support... didn't actually lift a piece of wood... some of the small squares... but everything else was slid between tables.. having all the room for the offcut was unbelievable.. Also thought it was going to be a pain dealing with the rail between cuts.. but I simply put it on top of the front fence and on the back fence.. had to move it maybe 6" each time.. I ripped 10 15 3/4"x74" pieces.. and 20 other square pieces... and other parts as well... easily!! butting the rail against the stops and cutting was a pleasure...
I did feel that for the smaller pieces I did need to secure the piece.. but I just unscrewed two nobs.. pulled the fence toward me and tightened.. it secured it and made sure it was square against the front fence... A table like this that Steve Jones designed is no doubt easier than a panel saw... I also croscutted full sheets first.. the full 48"... like steve described..   I also realized.. that if I had the clamps for it.. which are available.. I could easily drill 20mm holes and use festool table clamps anywhere.. or I could drill 3/4 inch holes and use other brands.. but I am going to add a couple more super-tracks... maybe on the edges as well for holding pieces verticle... with all the stuff available at woodpeckers... the possibilities are endless.. I had so much fun cutting up parts today...I am hooked.. Now I know why this is forum is here and why people love the tools so much.. the ts55, ct22 and rails are amazing... Felt like I was using hand tools instead of power tools..  I am always slow to recommend anything... but without a doubt no one would be dissapointed building a table like this.whether it is something that you could break down or a masterpiece like Steve's or Sparky's..Thank you Steve Jones!!! Anyone from a novice to a professional would benefit from this way of cutting up sheet goods!!! I will start assembling soon.. and I know that all that room will be nice to have...

I don't have room in my shop (garage) for a large cutting/assembly table, so I've been using a cheap door on saw horses, which works fine, but isn't as stable as I'd like when I'm hefting sheetgoods onto it. 

This thread has inspired me to come up with some better way of doing things, so I think what I am going to attempt is  building a torsion box top with folding/locking legs that I can suspend from the ceiling when not in use.

I did make a rolling base for my MFT this weekend that raises it up to a more comfortable working height for me, and I "Garry-rigged" a boom arm substitute.  (A piece of cable tensioned between the supports for the garage door track and the garage door opener) with a couple of pulleys and some bungee.  What a difference that makes! 

Just for another option for people, this is very similar to the knock down table that I use to use.  The version I used was in a woodworking magazine that I can't find at the moment.  It was nice because it was very easy to set up and take down.  Granted, there was no fence or anything.  It was purely for basic cutting down to smaller sizes.  I used a square to make perpendicular cuts.  Table saw for parallel cuts after the pieces were a more manageable size.  It was very nice for taking to the job site.

I could probably swing that, but I want to build the torsion box, anyway.  My logic is that I'll eventually be able to use it on a permanent base...

Jeff,

Yours is a great cutting table project.   Thanks for sharing the many details of how you built it and how you use it.

If only I had the space....

Although smaller in width, I think a line of MFTs connected together could be used to create a similar cutting table.  When MFTs are arranged end to end, F-style clamps can be inserted and slid quickly to any desired position along the top channels of the abutting side rails of the MFTs, much like you can do with clamps inserted into your embedded track sections.

Dave R.

Andy,

Congratulations on your new purchases, I've had the TS55 now for a couple of years and must have cut miles of plywood with it, and I still get a kick out of how well it does it's job.

The right hand stop is simply an old flip stop I had around the shop fitted with a flat headed bolt (actually an allen screw) with two knurled brass knobs to lock it in place, the bolt fitted through one of the holes provided in the stop. I also have a Kreg flip stop in the shop (used on my miter saw stand) and it also has holes for a similar adjustable bolt.

Steve

Jeff Johnson,

Thanks for the stop tip! I will put in an order today. I have cut a ton of pre finished maple plywood for
a bookshelf/entertainment center for one of my best customers and I am amazed at how accurate the parts are
once stacked up. I have 32 book shelves that are all cut nice and square and are all within .010 of an inch of each other.

I am not using the chip guard on my TS55 and find that there is no tear out on the off cut pieces. I invested a couple
thousand dollars in Festools with the thought that I would probably take them back in 30 days if I wasn't 100 percent satisfied.
So far a I am amazed with all of the stuff and mostly the great support on this forum.

Many thanks for you helpful suggestions.

Andy Lopez