I've ordered my Domino 500 and looking forward to putting it through its paces on a project with well over 150 loose tenon joints.

I've been reading about the various Domino add-ons...specifically Ron's Domiplate as well as RTS' MSG and SCG guides.  I'm not sure if I'm understanding the correct application of each - here is my rudimentary understanding:

Domiplate - easier and more stable than stock fence for 3/4" and 1/2" ply.  Is that the only use for it?  Does it work with regular (actual) 3/4" or 1/2" stock?

MSG - multiple stops, up to 6 pairs, adjustable across entire plate.  You have to set them yourself.  Useful if you have multiple commonly used mortise distances in a project or across projects, eg. cabinets.

SCG - one pair of stops that are self-centering and adjustable across entire plate.

Is this correct?  Which ones do you use/recommend as must-haves and what is your most common application where they are indispensable?  Any others?

Not to worry Rembo, I have plenty of Incra.    Of course, that does not buy me your creativity or craftmanship.

You should release plans of your Domino jig. 

I picked up the RTS SCG yesterday. Haven't used it, but I'm very impressed with the quality. It's perfect for getting a domino slot centred on a rail ... the flip one lug you're working with the same offset on another piece of stock.

You're playing with my head ... I must be thick, but can you give me an example of what you mean please? (Although it may come to me later ... it's been a long, long, long, hard day)

Of Course ... and here brain drained stupid me wasn't even thinking that the SCG's paddles move independently ... DOH!!!

thanks

Kev.

Ick, maybe you can rename it the You-Can-Self-Center-But-Why Guide.

I rarely use it to center.  Showed it in the review video, but emphasized the benefits at assembly time of offset mortises; offset mortises make it harder to accidentally assemble a piece in the wrong orientation without it being glaringly obvious.

I would second that motion. I have the MSG (inherited when I purchased my gently used Domino) and had never really used it. I gave it a try this weekend and I really struggled with getting the paddles centered by eyeing the lines. Kept ending up about .5mm off-center and I did not want to use the oversized slot on one side. I finally gave up (I only needed 2 dominoes) and pocket-holed the joint.

I had been drooling over the SCG whenever I leafed thru the latest Rockler catalog but had thought "heck, I already have one that is just not as fancy, why do I need this one...?"

Question answered. 

The paddles are also a little finicky to get straight, I doubt I will use it much unless I need to do a bunch of repetitious pieces. The SCG I could envision using for a few slots totally because of the self-centering feature.

Just  .

RMW

Live4ever Your question

"Domiplate - easier and more stable than stock fence for 3/4" and 1/2" ply.  Is that the only use for it?  Does it work with regular (actual) 3/4" or 1/2" stock?"

Yes, I use it with thin solid wood stock panels in frame and panel construction of small cabinets.  I find that the 1/2" side of the Domiplate is much easier to locate tenons in thin stock.

Yup! I'm no different. When I get a new product, I'll skim through the manual in about 30 second before it goes in a drawer or the trash. If something catches my eye--it's the drawer. If not--it's the trash. 

The manuals that I write are a bit of a different story. People actually go looking for them. There have been nearly 40,000 downloads from my Festool Manual page since I installed a hit counter last year or the year before. That doesn't even count how many downloads have been made direct from the Festool website.

What amazes me is that, as bad as user manuals are, service manuals are often worse! I own an independent Subaru-specialty shop. Mostly I build race cars and repair the street cars of guys who know me through my performance work. When I started this, I was really annoyed at how bad Subaru's repair manuals were. Skipped steps, useless diagrams, critical errors in fastener torques, etc. However, since then I've been exposed to a Dodge service manual and a Toyota/Scion service manual via taking care of my parents' cars. HOLY CRAP! One of them just lists the bolts to give a torque. In Engrish. How am I supposed to know what the "Back upper lower stop bolt" is? The other one lists engine removal as "Step 1: Once the all electrical, cable, and fuel connections to the engine have been disconnected...". I can't believe how good the Subaru manuals are in comparison.

So, yes, manuals have a deserved reputation for not being worth your time. However, it's also usually the only place to learn how to use the tool. Often, they're actually more useful to me pre-purchase to lean about the tools features rather than post-purchase to learn about how to use the features. I agree, when you run across actually literate technical documentation like Ick's, it's a relief.

What companies need to notice is that on forums, anybody glowing about their new SawStop or Leigh D4R Jig invariably makes a comment about the completeness of the manual, right down to shop-friendly spiral binding.  Couldn't have cost that much, but the ripple effects are worth so much more.

And thanks for the compliment, williaty!  Guess I should re-record my last video I did in Chingrish just for 'raughs' 

Actually, all kidding aside, I did download your Domino manual when I first received the Domino, AND I read it. Still have it out in the work-shed.

I recall it was very clear & contained useful info, I just need a refresher.

RMW

Nice.

Two of my current favorites are the brake section that has you torquing a M12x1.25 steel bolt into an aluminum caliper to a torque of 85lbf-ft. The manufacturer of said caliper says that under no conditions should you EVER torque beyond 55lbf-ft because the caliper will fail. For this reason, there are "Subaru Brembo Specific" kits available from Helicoil and Timesert. There's also the suggestion to torque M6x1.00 bolts to 52.8lbf-ft to hold the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. Needless to say, you discover the tensile strength of the little bolts.

In the automotive world, we get the added fun of the fact that the times allowed to complete tasks are based off some pencil pushers guess about how long it should take. Then they forget simple things like "the engine has to come out first". Even better, sometimes they allot time for taking the engine out once to do the clutch, then allot another amount of time to take the engine out a second time to get to the flywheel. I do wonder why these guys think the right side of a car is faster than the left. 4 hours to replace the left side cam seals. 20 minutes to replace the right side seals.

Looks like a nice project. I can't enlarge the images, but is the coupe in the first picture (the project car, I think), an S2000? Yeah, 30psi is pretty high for a non-WRC car. It gets interesting trying to keep all the couplings in the intake tract done up much above 20psi. I'm sure some of the other race series run high boost as well, but I'm mostly exposed to rally-related stuff, which runs up to 90psi. But only for about 200mi at full boost before it's a paper weight. Before opening my own shop, I did some design of suspension-related parts. It's nice to realize that probably half the modified Imprezas running around out there from 2002-2007 have a part I either designed, tested, or sold on them. I just happened to be at the right place at the right time to work with a couple of companies that are pretty dominant in that niche. I've been around high-power cars, worked on them a bunch, but it was tab-a/slot-b stuff from my end, someone else was doing the power design. I've gotten some pretty hilarious drives in them though. Restrictor-plate cars crack me up. Drive around and it almost seems like a normal car (well, other than the cage, straight-cut gears, etc). Flip the switch marked "STAGE" and suddenly the "idle" jumps up to 4kRPM, the boost settles on 20psi, and the car starts sounding like a string of firecrackers going off. Put the gas flat to the floor, clutch down, pull back on the paddle, and sidestep the clutch. Computer takes over and 800lbf-ft of torque tries to stuff your eyeballs into the back of your head. I honestly think I've got plaid a couple of times, lol. Then the restrictor plate takes over and the shove just dies more and more and more. By redline, it almost feels like a normal car again (though in reality it's still really making a lot of shove, it just feels normal in comparison).

I get guys coming up to me and giving me heck about driving a non-turbo station wagon all the time. They ask how I can have fun in the car without 300-400hp. I tell them once you've driven a car that weighs 2,000lbs and makes over 800hp, it just doesn't seem impressive do drive a 3300lbs car with 400hp. Those are, inevitably, the same guys who have all sorts of reasons why I was able to just calmly drive away from them on a mountain road even though I have a 250+hp disadvantage.

I click the thumbnail and it tells me I have to log in.

Yeah, I have to admit I use the gas pedal less than I did even just a few years ago. Of course, I use the brake pedal less now too, what with there being no original parts other than the unibody and a couple of years of driver education. When the speed limit is 25mph, I just set the cruise on 29mph these days. Then again, I don't cancel the cruise to go around 90* corners onto a new street either...