polarsea1
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Location: Oregon, USA Member Since: Apr 2007
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« on: January 06, 2010, 12:00 AM » |
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The angle bracket too shaky for me so I'd been thinking about building a more robust version from aluminum angle but came up with this idea made from scrap 1/2" ply: The bottom plate of the domino is the same distance from the bit as the fence is at it's lowest position so I made a stop fixing it in place with the screws from the angle bracket. It indexes the vertical mortise 10mm on center from the outside edge of the horizontal piece. I remove it and flip the fence to the horizontal position referencing the outside face of the perpendicular member to complete the corner.    |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2010, 12:06 AM by polarsea1 »
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waho6o9
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« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2010, 11:41 PM » |
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Good idea!  |
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John Stevens
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Location: Ardmore, PA Member Since: Jan 2007
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2010, 12:04 AM » |
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Great idea! Would it make sense to slot the holes so it can be slid forward and back rather than removed when you go to bore the mating holes on the perpendicular piece of the drawer or box? I've heard that Festool makes some kind of machine that can be used to bore slotted holes  but perhaps such a mod would not be useful because it's not necessary to switch back and forth between using the fence and jig when making multiple drawers or boxes. Just a thought. BTW, when you say "box building," you're including domi-drawers, right? Regards, John |
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« Last Edit: January 09, 2010, 12:09 AM by John Stevens »
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fshanno
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Location: Silsbee TX Member Since: Sep 2007
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2010, 11:04 PM » |
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How about letting it stick further out, like the MFK 700, and just turn the Domino upside down to drill the mating hole? You could just leave it on. There could be a knob on the back to hold and stabilize.
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polarsea1
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Location: Oregon, USA Member Since: Apr 2007
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2010, 11:29 PM » |
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I was actually referring to cabinet cases but I'm sure it would work for any box you'd like to build with the caveat that a 10mm center won't work with 1/2" ply. I do both ends of the side panels then pop it off to do the tops and bottoms and/or stretchers, I'm too lazy to slot it. fshanno, that would work too - I might try it. Great idea! Would it make sense to slot the holes so it can be slid forward and back rather than removed when you go to bore the mating holes on the perpendicular piece of the drawer or box? I've heard that Festool makes some kind of machine that can be used to bore slotted holes but perhaps such a mod would not be useful because it's not necessary to switch back and forth between using the fence and jig when making multiple drawers or boxes. Just a thought. BTW, when you say "box building," you're including domi-drawers, right? Regards, John |
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fshanno
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Location: Silsbee TX Member Since: Sep 2007
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« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2010, 04:45 AM » |
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I've been doing my cases with dominoes and screws. I'm going to make that little deal and try it the next time I put a box together. A variation on your idea could provide for handling 1/2" ply.  Notch the stop so that it's bearing face is a little higher than the Domino base plate. That would decrease the 10mm to whatever you want. |
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fshanno
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« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2010, 01:44 PM » |
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I went ahead and made one of these with the variation I mentioned.  Nice touch with the Festool knob, don't you think? Looks official. Plunging upside down is no problem at all. This is very efficient for case making. You don't have to take it off for end mortises. I put some notches for attaching the outriggers but I should have just made the whole thing narrower and it would have been fine. I think this is a game changer. |
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polarsea1
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Location: Oregon, USA Member Since: Apr 2007
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« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2010, 09:24 PM » |
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Nice
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Hergy
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Location: Omaha, NE Member Since: Oct 2007
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« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2010, 05:21 PM » |
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fshanno, great idea. I've had ideas running through my brain about a fixture of sorts primarily for making 1/2" drawers. I just recently completed a tool chest and used the Domino to join the sides (1/2" stock). The Domino is a bit overpowering when working with 1/2" material. By that, I mean the weight of the machine and working with the smaller sizes was a bit awkward and could certainly benefit from the addition of some fixturing to aid in domino placement. I intend to play around with your solution for projects I have in mind.
I might add that I have been very sucessful when joining 3/4" material and have built 3 shop cabs using dominos. Things just got a little funky when I went to 1/2" material. I think that with 1/2" it is more critical to be pretty close to center on the stock.
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is9582
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« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2010, 06:11 PM » |
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Polarsea1 -
Cool idea! Only question is how you align your Domino so that you place your mortises in the correct place, in this orientation? Are the extra long lines on your workpiece for just that reason?
Regards,
Lee
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fshanno
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Location: Silsbee TX Member Since: Sep 2007
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« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2010, 01:36 AM » |
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Polarsea1 -
Cool idea! Only question is how you align your Domino so that you place your mortises in the correct place, in this orientation? Are the extra long lines on your workpiece for just that reason?
Regards,
Lee
I encounter that problem pretty quickly myself. So I drilled a hole which reveals the registration line on the bottom.  It seems to work pretty well. |
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is9582
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« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2010, 02:41 PM » |
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Fshanno -
Perfect solution. Do you recall the specs (thread/pitch) on the two bolts you used to attach the base to the Domino, and where you found them? I'll have to build one, too.
Thanks,
Lee
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polarsea1
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Location: Oregon, USA Member Since: Apr 2007
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« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2010, 12:08 AM » |
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I used the screws that came with the (useless to me) angle bracket. I counterbored the back so I could also use the O-rings that prevent the screws from coming away from the bracket.
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fshanno
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« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2010, 10:56 AM » |
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I used the screws that came with the (useless to me) angle bracket. I counterbored the back so I could also use the O-rings that prevent the screws from coming away from the bracket.
That's exactly what I did. I bought the new angle bracket with the flip up stops, which works beautifully by the way. So the screws from the old one were available. This seems like a mundane little thread about another simple little homemade wooden jig. But I think we're dealing with something that could be revolutionary for Domino owners and ultimately could be the impetuous to turn a lot of other forks into Domino owners who otherwise might not have been. The two innocuous little screw holes have already served as the basis for the MGS-20 stop attachment. This notion of screwing things to the bottom could very well end up being a huge deal. I've been thinking of all the possibilities of using different kinds of plates for many different uses. Anyway, food for thought. |
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The one thing we learn from history is that we never learn from history.
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is9582
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« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2010, 03:01 AM » |
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Thanks guys. I'd thought about harvesting the screws from that accessory, too, but didn't know if I was alone in that thinking. This attachment point does seem to lend itself to many possibilities. This user's group is a cool and useful resource.
Regards,
Lee
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rnt80
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Location: Gilbert, AZ Member Since: Mar 2008
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« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2010, 09:33 PM » |
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Is there a part number for the knob that you used?
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Peter Halle
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
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« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2010, 10:22 PM » |
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If I understand the thread, from the Festool ekat site, I think this might help.   Hope that this helps. Peter |
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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rnt80
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« Reply #17 on: January 26, 2010, 10:28 PM » |
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Actually Peter I was thinking of the larger knob that he placed towards the front of the jig.
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #18 on: January 26, 2010, 10:36 PM » |
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Sorry,
That could be several knob types. Try to be back in a minute...
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Peter Halle
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
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« Reply #19 on: January 26, 2010, 11:04 PM » |
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That knob could be numerous possibilities. from the OF 1400 - the threaded portion could be cut down to length.   Good Luck, Peter |
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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rnt80
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Location: Gilbert, AZ Member Since: Mar 2008
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« Reply #20 on: January 26, 2010, 11:10 PM » |
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Thanks Peter!
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fshanno
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Location: Silsbee TX Member Since: Sep 2007
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« Reply #21 on: January 26, 2010, 11:48 PM » |
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The knob is from the clamping element. I rarely use the knob so it was available.
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The one thing we learn from history is that we never learn from history.
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arso_bg
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Location: Bulgaria Member Since: Jan 2008
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« Reply #22 on: May 06, 2010, 01:18 AM » |
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Hi everybody
I was planning since a long time to try out this method of work with the Domino, but I managed to do it only last week. The preparation didn't take much time. Everything it needs is a rectangular piece of wood with three holes. I used a piece of melamine coated particle board 16 mm thick and the dimensions are 220mm X 120mm. It fits well in the Systainer.
What I have to say is that I am very, very impressed. It works amazingly well!
The Domino is very easy to align and very stable during work. Within seconds I made several joints - on all of them both pieces are perfectly flush and the joints are perfectly 90 degree.
I will definitely use this jig always when it is suitable and would recommend it to everybody.
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« Last Edit: May 06, 2010, 01:19 AM by arso_bg »
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jonny round boy
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Location: West Yorkshire, UK Member Since: Jul 2007
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« Reply #23 on: May 06, 2010, 04:15 AM » |
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I'm definitely going to make one of these - I've got some 12mm / 1/2" birch ply drawerboxes to make at some point, so I think I'll also incorporate fshanno's idea of a stepped version to reduce the offset of the bit.
And I have some of the clamping element knobs kicking around - I don't know why they include them with the clamps (I've never come across a situation where they are needed) but they are extremely useful for attaching to jigs!
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Festoller
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« Reply #24 on: May 06, 2010, 10:39 AM » |
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Great idea, after working with the original Festool angle bracket just one week ago this is exactly what I need.
polarsea1: I think you're right about the aluminum, thats why I've ordered some 112 x 171 x 10 mm aluminum plates. The drilling should not be a problem, but I would also like to slot the holes!
Has anyone used the OF 1010 for this purpose or in general for aluminum or should I stick with the simple drilling method?
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FEStastic
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Location: Birmingham UK Member Since: May 2010
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« Reply #25 on: May 12, 2010, 07:47 PM » |
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Hi I found making this usefull    it projects about 15mm past the base so I can use the joiner upright and the work fully supported not overhanging. Works well for me as most of my work is 18mm and thicker Used lexon stays straight and can take a beating |
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6191
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #26 on: May 12, 2010, 08:02 PM » |
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Hi
I found making this usefull...
I've had good luck with the support bracket that comes with the Domino. Plus the fence allows you adjust the center of your mortise. With your bracket that spacing is fixed. Well, I don't mean to get too far off track here since this isn't all that closely related. The concept here is great. thanks for posting Polar.  |
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Michael Kellough
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1905
Southern New York
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« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2010, 09:10 PM » |
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This is a pretty interesting addition to the Domino. While the versions posted so far
seem to be limited to one depth that could be expanded with the step mentioned above
and the addition of shims or spacers that could simply be added with small embedded magnets.
I like the slot idea and I'd add that the step could be a step up on one side (or end)
and a step down on the other to expand the range of depths available.
Why bother when the fence is adjustable over a broad range? A couple of reasons.
One is that the fence only provides secure depth registration for tenons bored on
one side of a corner. (I sure wouldn't want to loose the fence since not all corners
are 90 degrees). Another reason is that the fence sometimes clamps up out of parallel
with the mortise and it's hard to tell it's off until you've made the cut or joined the parts.
This isn't a problem when there are two or more mortises in a row but when you want
a good fit from one Domino such as on a face frame or cabinet door a single out of parallel
mortise ensures that the rail and stile won't fit well. This jig eliminates that problem.
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Steve Baumgartner
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Location: North of Boston, Massachusetts, USA Member Since: Apr 2008
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« Reply #28 on: May 13, 2010, 03:10 PM » |
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This seems like a brilliant addition! I plan to make one too. I have a question, though. When you use the domino upside down to cut slots into the end of the board, doesn't that reverse left-to-right also? If you align with pencil lines and mark both pieces in place that shouldn't be a problem, but if you measure or use stops and there are more than two dominoes in the joint, you could get into trouble!
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richard.selwyn
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Location: Normandy, France Member Since: Jan 2007
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Normandy, France
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« Reply #29 on: May 13, 2010, 04:26 PM » |
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Just an idea, but the Lamello biscuit jointers offer add on pieces to slip over their pivoting fences - I have one that is 2mm and one 4mm. They are great and in my experience more accurate than the domino slide up and down. My biggest problem is not being able to get the domino close enough into the corners of things that are already assembled - I guess we always want more! I just bought my first exterior grade dominos but have yet to use them. Any feedback?
Richard.
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