Again, I'm surprised at the responses to the "Rips in the filed", as I stated it is a variation of how I cut my face frame and door/drawer rail and style pieces.

I cut a spacer that yields me a 2.25" wide pieces for the rails and styles and anther spacer that yields 1.5" pieces for the face frames. Other widths I handle on a case by case basis.

Shown is the spacer for door pieces. It is 5.0625" (.0625 makes up for blade loss) wide, my rail measures 7.250", back edge to cut side of splinter strip.

I install the MFT fence in the tall position, butt the long edge of the spacer to the fence, butt the straight lined edge of my material against the spacer, place the rail against the fence, and make the cut. This will yield a 2.250" piece for the door. Length is limited only by your guide rail length. It does not matter if the piece extends past the table.

There is a piece of cardboard between the material and the MFT top. I set the saw not to cut through the cardboard. When I'm doing a hardwood floor install, my rips are made right on the floor with only a piece of the packaging between the material and the floor.

I find this method easier and just as accurate as a table saw. I also feel it is faster and the edge of the material has fewer saw marks, if any. Clean up there is no comparison. For the record I do not own a top of the line table saw. I only have a DeWalt portable.

Tom

The spacer is also the master for Schlage, lock sets. The holes are for strike, dead bolt and bolt plates. If I damage my field jig, I have the master to make another.

We're not building watches, or is this going to be another Henry Graves Jr.- James Ward Packard situation?

(Google watch complications)

Tom

Thx,

Great info. I was wondering how one could make rails ad stiles with a TS 55/ guide rail as easy and fast a I could with a table saw.

You are correct it is the piece under the rail I am using.

You're correct, thinking about it the blade loss it has no affect on this. The addional 1/16 is what it took to get the width correct.

Tom

A stop is all that should be necessary. The anti splinter strip holds my pieces in place.

Try glueing sand paper on the cardboard.

Which blade are you using?  I think mine is the universal one. I'll check tomorrow.

Tom

The standard supplied blade is the fine tooth blade. The universal blade has fewer teeth.

Thanks guys.  Don't understand how fewer teeth will resolve the creeping problem. Will I be compromising the smooth cut of the 48 tooth blade? So far, that's the only advantage that the TS 55 seems to offer over my table saw. And, I'm sure I can improve my table saw cut by purchasing a different blade for it, instead of investing in a 28 tooth blade for the TS 55 and "hoping" that it fixes the movement issues. And, I still have to resolve my "straightness-of-cut" issue.

I would suggest that you try the universal blade.  It really is a blade that should be in your collection.  The fine blade is really designed for sheet goods and not solid timber except for cross cutting.  When ripping solid wood the blade can't exit the chips fast enough and that puts strain on the blade which can help drag the work along as it is fighting to cut.

As others have said a stop at the end of the board can also help prevent it from being pushed along.  You have a table saw.  How about making some sacrificial blocks that have a stem ripped to fit into the mft holes with a block 1/2 thick glued on top of a size that will not fall thru the mft holes.  As long as that "stop" hits the good board then creep should be eliminated.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Peter

I am sure that a Qwas dog would work.  I am going to the shop to clean up after the last project and in preparation of the next.  I will try to takes Tom suggestion (which I think is great) and see how it goes for me.  Just make sure that the hole pattern keeps it (Qwas dog) out of blade's way  .  Wood was just for cheap sacrificial purposes and blade safety.

Peter

P.S. - You are very welcome! 

You're welcome I (something third personish about that statement).

I really do hope others try this and refine the method to work for them.

I've not had the issue of the board sliding, so I've yet to need/use a stop. I have ripped oak, cheery, maple, pine, alder and Ipe with this method. If I need one it would be either the stationary piece from one of my clamping elements, or something that would mount to the profile of the MFT.

Tom

Or maybe a domino for little more stability.

To add to this discussion, let's say that you are going to try this and already have a rail or stile the correct width.  To make the spacer put the rail or stile against the MFT fence, then put your soon to be master spacer board next to it and set up your rail as Tom shows and then cut your spacer.  No fuss.

I was going to do this yesterday, but I will be making these type of spacers for my parts for aquarium stands.

Thanks again Tom!

Peter

I know when I lose a screw, that's the first place I look.

It hovers above my inverted vac-sys.

Thanks Tom for your "ripping good" idea. Here's my take on it. It's just a variation that I think will work better for me.

First, I replaced the cardboard table protector with 1/4" plywood. This gives me a flatter surface for my clamping. (See photos, hope they work.) It's still cheap and lightweight and will hold up better in storage.

Then, the biggest difference is using a wooden fence on TOP of the spacer board. By sliding it forward or back, its "size" is variable. And, I can clamp the fence and spacer together so there's no chance the spacer board will move during cutting. So, I'll just store these 3 "Rip Kit" components together and easily and quickly be ready to go the next time I'm ripping narrow pieces with no need to cut new spacers. I've planed this spacer board down to 18mm for this project – and to level it in the future with 19mm stock – I'll just shim it up 1mm. Obviously, if I ever rip 1/2' material, I'll need a new spacer board but probably 95% of the time, I use the TS 55 for 3/4" material.

Note that my spacer board's lower front edge is rabbeted so saw dust/chips won't interfere with good board contact and I used your suggestion (thanks) to add the Domino in the edge to keep my keeper piece from creeping.