I suppose as long as I have this thread open, I should show some of the other things we did while making these tables. As a matter of fact, I should probably explain the whole back-story for them too.
Without going into the reason, I have literally TONS of granite pieces in my garage. I got it for free and planned on doing projects just like this one with each of the pieces. The picture below shows some of the granite I have stacked up in the garage.
I haven't been very active in my workshop for a long time, but a couple weeks ago I decided to take advantage of some of this granite and make a front hall table for myself. I found a piece and created a design around it. The next day, I got a call from my son wanting to "make" something for his mom for Christmas. So I figured we could kill two birds with one stone and make similar tables together.
I created the design in SolidWorks and configured one version for his chosen piece of granite and one for my chosen piece. I printed a template for the legs and we bandsawed the rough form and then template routed them with the OF1400 with a top-bearing pattern bit.
After some edge sanding, we put a 2mm (Festool) roundover profile around the edges of the legs. This picture is of Tanner routing the profile of his table legs using the MFK 700 router. (Yes, you may notice the ASA5000 boomarm over Tanner's head. I love that thing, and it is the best Festool product I ever extorted
out of poor Christian Oltzscher.
It sweeps across my entire shop.)
The legs and center shelf/stretcher were assembled and then we moved on to the top frame and granite.
I spent more time "thinking" about how to assemble the granite and cherry frame than we spent doing the actual assembly. I planned out how to deal with the granite probably being out-of-square, how to deal with the granite be of non-precise thickness, and how to make these two dissimilar materials fit together permanently and with precision. That's why the frame was built the way it was built.
I used construction adhesive between the granite and the cherry, but regular wood glue and Dominos to assemble the cherry frame. I know how much squeeze out is preferred with wood glue, but the construction adhesive was sheer guess due to the large gap. During clamping, the granite needed to be supported from below so that the cherry frame and clamps would settle down to the surface by their own weight. I screwed this up the first time on MY frame, but at least learned my lessons by the time we did Tanner's frame.
After the frames were dry we needed to route the flutes along the edges. To make the single round bead, I needed to use my sharp-point flute bit spaced 3/8" apart. (Picture a roundover bit without a bearing and a sharp point at the center). Tanner used the MFK 700 with the fence to control the spacing of these passes. Important:
Read one of my manuals on this topic. If you move the router in the wrong direction, it will pull away from the fence! I know this fact VERY WELL, but it still slipped my mind. Thankfully I screwed-up on my test piece and pulled the router in the wrong direction when it didn't matter. (The router bit drifted away from the fence).
In the picture below, notice that Tanner is pulling the router toward him. If he had pushed the router in the opposite direction, it would have caused the router bit to pull the router away from the fence (registration edge) and the line would be crooked.
Of course the worst part of any project is the sanding. We use pneumatic ROS sanders for the grunt work, but the fine sanding of the flutes must be done by hand. Tanner was introduced to the pains of hand sanding. This is his top, which you can see is more square than my rectangular top.