Author Topic: MFT Upgrade! Incra LS Positioner Incremental System vs. Table Saw Fence on MFT/3  (Read 141970 times)

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Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
I've been thinking about upgrading my MFT/3 for better repeatability and accurate micro measured cuts. Of course the MFT is pretty accurate, but for many different cuts it takes a lot of time to set up.

Using the MFT Angle Unit on the right side of the Guide Rail for smaller cuts and on the left side for larger cuts is quite helpful, but again set up has to be done manually for different cuts



Now that Incra introduced a metric version of the Incra Positioner I am thinking about mounting it on the MFT/3 (left side of the Guide Rail) or as an extension to have space for larger workpieces to use it as a saw fence and with the MFT extension and router inlay it would later also be a perfect router fence. It?s probably cheaper just to buy the CMS router lift and table top instead of the whole CMS Router Module.

Beside the decision for the size, 25" or 17"  (LS Positioner Incremental Positioning System) or even 32" (TS-LS Table Saw Fence) I need to decide if the

LS25SYS - LS Positioner Incremental Positioning System



or the

LS32-TS - Tabe Saw Fence



is the right choice?

The table saw fence has additional side rails, but from the videos and manuals I would assume the LS Positioner alone would be stable enough for this kind of usage. It could be mounted directly on the MFT or on some extension. Even adding another MFT would be optional.

What do you think Table saw fence or LS Positioner System (Router Fence)?
« Last Edit: May 16, 2010, 04:20 PM by Festoller »
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

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Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
...
The table saw fence has additional side rails, but from the videos and manuals I would assume the LS Positioner alone would be stable enough for this kind of usage. It could be mounted directly on the MFT or on some extension. Even adding another MFT would be optional.

What do you think Table saw fence or LS Positioner System (Router Fence)?

I have an Imperial version of the LS25 and would suggest the smaller LS17.  Mounting the LS to a MDF base makes it easy to clamp to your MFT.  The table saw fence would just be too much stuff mounted to your table.

Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline mr_hockey

  • Posts: 33
Have you thought about just using the incra tracks and their stop block???

http://www.incra.com/product_jfc_tracks.htm

Much cheaper yet offers the same repeatability and accuracy. I've been thinking about adding this to my MFT.

FYI I have the incra table saw fence on my unisaw and love it!!! I never user my tape measure...


-jj




Offline CList

  • Posts: 46
Whoa, that table-saw system is a beast - looks very cool though, not sure why I never noticed it before. It could because it's so big (and pricey) that I just dismissed it out of hand as being unreasonable for the MFT. If you get one and rig it to your MFT I'd love to see it!

I got my system from mhch in this thread:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-guide-rail-alignment-incra-tracks/
(who may of course been the third or forth person to do the same thing!)
...and put a piece of MDF on top of the far rail with the fence on top of it. The MDF height is such that it goes 1/4" above the height of the table top and acts as a fence UNDER the guide rail and for the entire length of the table. The Incra fence sitting on top of it simply adds the extra height to the fence on the left of the guide rail and also has the adjustable stop.

I simply got this fence and stop - which is WAY cheaper than the ones you're looking at:
http://www.incrementaltools.com/IncraLOCK_Cut_Off_Fence_27_p/miterfnc27.htm

Note, however that my table is custom and is 60" in length, so I have plenty of room on both sides of the rail. I have a special piece of 1/2" ply cut to exactly 8" that I slip under the guide rail to act as a spacer between the stop and the work piece when I want to use the fence stop to measure short cuts.

Would that kind of system be enough for you? I can assure it's very repeatable and dead-on. ...or where you looking for something where the guide rail would somehow attach directly to the fence system? Again, if you go in a different direction I'd love to see/ hear about it.

I also hadn't realized Incra is selling those metric parts. I've been thinking for a while of switching to all metric since almost all of my rules are both metric and imperial, but didn't want to do it because of the 1/32" teeth on the incra stop system - now I have no excuse! I'm sure my carpenter friends will all roll their eyes at my euro-phile ways...


One more thing about that fence I posted - the stop is fixed - which it came with a flip-type of a stop, but the flip-stop only works with the other taller "telescoping" fences - kind of annoying...  ...but at least the knobs to lock and unlock the fence are on the front,while the flip-stop has them on the back, so to change the flip-stop you need go around to the back of the table.

Cheers,
CList
« Last Edit: May 16, 2010, 06:10 PM by CList »

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
...
One more thing about that fence I posted - the stop is fixed - which it came with a flip-type of a stop, but the flip-stop only works with the other taller "telescoping" fences - kind of annoying...  ...but at least the knobs to lock and unlock the fence are on the front,while the flip-stop has them on the back, so to change the flip-stop you need go around to the back of the table.

Cheers,
CList

To be clear, Incra manufactures two types of incremental track -- standard and flip.  While telescoping versions are available, they also make both type of track in 18", 36" and 52" lengths without telescoping extensions.  They make two types of stops too -- one for each type track.  Either type track/stop setup can be used on your MFT.  Unless joining two or more MFTs deep, I can easily reach and adjust either type stop from the front of the table without having to "go around to the back" -- but, your reach may differ.

The incremental tracks make for nice fence setups, but do not really serve the same function as the LS Positioner.  The LS will work well for both a saw fence and router fence as the OP states.
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline CList

  • Posts: 46
Ah, didn't realize the flip came in non-telescoping. I still wish they made a flip-stop with front lock-screws for the standard track... :/ ...seems like an odd omission in a rather large catalog.


Cheers,
Chris

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
Ah, didn't realize the flip came in non-telescoping. I still wish they made a flip-stop with front lock-screws for the standard track... :/ ...seems like an odd omission in a rather large catalog.

I don't see this as an omission -- a flip stop with front locking screws won't work with the design of the standard track.  However, you can use the Flip Stop backwards on the standard track.  Well, kinda.  You would need to mount the track on a sub-base to account for the taller Flip Stop.  Probably better off just getting the Flip track too. 
« Last Edit: May 17, 2010, 04:03 AM by Corwin »
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline CList

  • Posts: 46
I don't see this as an omission -- a flip stop with front locking screws won't work with the design of the standard track.  However, you can use the Flip Stop backwards on the standard track.  Well, kinda.  You would need to mount the track on a sub-base to account for the taller Flip Stop.  Probably better off just getting the Flip track too. 

Hm, yeah, now that I think about it - I see what you mean, the screws would act as stops! I guess I was thinking of something where everything below the level of the screws could flip up and out of the way so you could slide material less than 1" thick under the body of the stop - not a true flip-stop, kind of goofy and less useful for most people who have the fence at the same as the table, but it'd work well for the stuff I've been doing lately!

Just out of curiosity, you have the LS mounted to your MFT? Is it just mounted at the base (where the release-level is)? Does it need any kind of guides along the parallel edges of the table - like the table saw version uses - or is it small enough that it's able to stay square and stable just from the contact between the carriage and the base?

Thanks,
C

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Corwin:

Exactly what I think, the only reason for bringing up the Table Saw Fence is possible squareness and stability problems with the LS Positioner and fence alone. From the videos it looks like the LS is pretty rigid, but even a slight flexibility could ruin the whole concept.

Has anyone managed to find a workable solution of connecting the Positioner with the Festool Guide Rail instead of using a spacer under the Festool Guide Rail. Would the Positioner be stable enough to operate completely in the air with the Festool MFT Guide Rail attached? That would be the perfect solution, except for many different cuts in your MFTs surface!

The question is if the LS25SYS or LS17SYS will be rigid and square enough without the side rails of the LS32-TS. If the MFT rail rests on the workpiece, stability during the cut is secured anyway.

Why would you prefer the LS17 (max. 50 mm from the rail) over the LS25 (max. 70 mm from the rail)? How big is the base actually, couldn't find the dimensions anywhere? The LS25 would give you a little bit of extra length, especially if mounted on an extension, or usage with the MFT router extension, but of course the LS17 would probably fit quite flush with the side of the MFT if the rail is setup at approximately 700mm (430 mm + base).

Another solution would be ordering the LS17 or LS25 with one of the fences, but I need to compare prices to the LS17/25SYS package.

mr._hockey:

The Incra Tracks as discussed in another post here on the FOG were my first idea, but it would just slightly improve the Festool system (fence and stop) or other methods with dogs and fences, but the floating scales with various reference points and the lead screw positioning are really what I am looking for.

CList:

Could you post some pictures of your set up? Attaching the Positioner to the guide rail? I haven't really thought that through, because of the many cuts the MFT would suffer and at a certain point squareness/ flushness of the MFT would become an issue.


Thanks for all the help and ideas so far and of course I will post a proper documentation of the process, at least as soon as I have made a decision which Positioner or system to order.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2010, 10:14 AM by Festoller »
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Incra showed a 3 part LS Positioner System video on Youtube and at least to me looks like the LS25SYS woud be stable and rigid enough, even without the side rails of the Table Saw Fence.

In the video they show the Incra Router Table Top (27" x 43") which is almost the same size than the MFT/3 (30" x 45"/ take off the rails) and if routing at that speed and detail is possible without moving the fence just a tiny bit, it seems to me I could go with the LS25SYS or LS17SYS. Of course the Festop would be the perfect fit for this system, but shipping to Europe would probably cost more than the top.

Unfortunately the workpiece would be limited to the lenght minus the Positioner base, which is why an extension would be a great solution, but it should be mounted properly. Any ideas, except the Festool MFT-VL for almost 500 EUR. My fist thought was attaching some Multiplex with the guide rail connectors, but they don't fit the MFT slots. I guess it's better to mount the LS directly on the MFT table top. At a certain point or lenght the parallel guide would be the right solution anyway.





« Last Edit: May 17, 2010, 10:21 AM by Festoller »
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
...
Just out of curiosity, you have the LS mounted to your MFT? Is it just mounted at the base (where the release-level is)? Does it need any kind of guides along the parallel edges of the table - like the table saw version uses - or is it small enough that it's able to stay square and stable just from the contact between the carriage and the base?

The base of the LS Positioner (where the release-lever is) can be either bolted directly to a table top, or bolted to a sub base that in turn can be bolted or clamped to the table.  I have my LS bolted to a MDF sub base and I clamp the works in place on my MFT top when needed.  The LS is very stable when the carriage is locked down.  If you are concerned about a hard bump knocking the LS out of position, I would expect that any movement would occur between the base and table top where clamped. 
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
...
Has anyone managed to find a workable solution of connecting the Positioner with the Festool Guide Rail instead of using a spacer under the Festool Guide Rail. Would the Positioner be stable enough to operate completely in the air with the Festool MFT Guide Rail attached? That would be the perfect solution, except for many different cuts in your MFTs surface!
...

Not exactly sure what you're asking here.  T-track slots in the working face of the fence allow you to mount a replaceable MDF sub-fence or face plate to the fence.  Given that, you could make a sub-fence that would accept the Guide Rail... 

The question is if the LS25SYS or LS17SYS will be rigid and square enough without the side rails of the LS32-TS. If the MFT rail rests on the workpiece, stability during the cut is secured anyway.

Why would you prefer the LS17 (max. 50 mm from the rail) over the LS25 (max. 70 mm from the rail)? How big is the base actually, couldn't find the dimensions anywhere? The LS25 would give you a little bit of extra length, especially if mounted on an extension, or usage with the MFT router extension, but of course the LS17 would probably fit quite flush with the side of the MFT if the rail is setup at approximately 700mm (430 mm + base).

Another solution would be ordering the LS17 or LS25 with one of the fences, but I need to compare prices to the LS17/25SYS package.

I don't think you need the side rails. 

If I have measured correctly, the base of the LS is 158mm by 228mm.

Either size should do fine.  My LS25 is large, and the 17 would have been enough for me.  If mounting to the MFT top, you might use dogs in the table's 20mm holes to locate the LS and to essentially extend the capacity of whichever model you choose -- the table's holes are 96mm on center...
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Corwin:

Thank's a lot you've really helped with my questions and the decision, I guess I will order the Positioner and not the Table Saw Fence then! Although I need to decide for the 17" or the 25"

How about the additional MDF base height, can that be compensated by lowering the fence, or could you maybe post a photo of your MFT/Positioner set up? I thought about using the Kapex crown molding wing as an MFT extension or the MFT angle unit in order to mount the Positioner. It could be attached with a base mounted to a Festool V style clip. If it's stable enough that would be a great solution for fast set up.

These are the prices for the single Positioner and the package:

The new Metric LS25SYS goes in the UK for GBP 277.00 (inc. VAT 17.5%) and includes: the
25" Positioner (GBP 186.00)
Pro-II Fence (GBP 45.00)
Shop Stop (GBP 25.00)
Right Angle Fixture (GBP 28.00)
Master Ref. Guide & Templates (GBP 22.00)

that's GBP 306,00 compared to GBP 277,00 and will save almost 30, just the Positioner and the Pro Fence is GBP 231.00.

I guess the package makes sense!
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
How about the additional MDF base height, can that be compensated by lowering the fence...

Yes, I didn't measure, but there is something like 25mm to 30mm of up or down adjustment between the positioner and fence.  And don't forget a user-made sub-fence for the face of the fence -- it can be a little taller and/or lower as needed.

These are the prices for the single Positioner and the package:

The new Metric LS25SYS goes in the UK for GBP 277.00 (inc. VAT 17.5%) and includes: the
25" Positioner (GBP 186.00)
Pro-II Fence (GBP 45.00)
Shop Stop (GBP 25.00)
Right Angle Fixture (GBP 28.00)
Master Ref. Guide & Templates (GBP 22.00)

that's GBP 306,00 compared to GBP 277,00 and will save almost 30, just the Positioner and the Pro Fence is GBP 231.00.

I guess the package makes sense!

Yep, get one of the packages.  You might even get two lengths of the standard track and a couple Shop Stops too, while you're at it...  Great for home-grown parallel guides.
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Quote
Yep, get one of the packages.  You might even get two lengths of the standard track and a couple Shop Stops too, while you're at it...  Great for home-grown parallel guides.

Great idea! Will do so! That will probably also solve my Kapex small cut issue!

Thank's again for all your help, I'll order the LS tomorrow. Photos following.
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline CList

  • Posts: 46
That is a very sexy system, and for $300 seems like a really worthwhile addition to a router table. One thing I noticed was the lack of dust in the demo videos - not having a router table (and having never seen one in use outside of videos), I have to ask; do people typically have a vacuum port port installed on the router under the table? Seems like it wouldn't be that effective, and I've seen router table fences with the vacuum port there (like the "Super System" he has at the start of the first video). I set up my MFT to be 5' long specifically so that 2/3 of it would be a "standard" size MFT top, and the remaining 1/3 would be interchangeable with different inserts, one of them I planned on making was a router table insert. I don't have enough need of it yet, but I will slowly work towards it. Watching that guy make those dovetails sure makes me want one :D I'm torn between getting a nice precision lift vs the cheap Bosch one - but I know in my gut what the answer to that question is!
 
I'm heading back to the shop now and will take some pics of my fence.

I have to say that the MDF fence starts to feel a little "squishy" around the cut line and the area right of the incra fence. I had to do a McMaster order today, so I dropped $20 on a 6' piece of 1.5" x 3/4" aluminum tubing and I'm going to try using that in place of the MDF and mount the incra fence on that. I'll use the miter saw + aluminum blade to notch the area around where the TS blade will go over it before installing. The remaining section of tube after nothing the top should stay plenty stiff and give me a nice solid feel all the way across the table.

Cheers,
Chris

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Chris:

I had the same thought and it seems only the Super Fence has the vacuum port built into the fence. Usually Router tables have the port behind the fence, but thats where the Positioner is connected and I don't think you can connect the vacuum to that fence. You'll probably have to connect the vacuum under the table.

Maybe Corwin can shine some light on this issue, the manual does not give any information on that. With the OF1010 I could attach the D27 dust collection, but a lot of dust will probably stay above the table surface. Although even with the D36 hose behind the fence a lot of dust stays on the table anyway.
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline CList

  • Posts: 46
Here's a few pics of my MFT. Obviously I don't take too much care with the surface - it's loaded with cuts! That's mainly because I plan on redoing it soon with the Festool-standard 96mm hole spacing - mine's 128mm spacing. The hinge is aluminum and has a little play - which is fine because when the whole thing is properly configured, the left edge of the guide rail presses against the incra fence - removing the play - AND it's square to the fence. That's how I know that I've got it set right, when I feel no play. You'll not the plastic stop-blocks that I keep fixed on the faces of the front and back side rails for the table - they let me take the MDF "sleds" that support the guide rail off, and then return it to the correct place when I put it back on. I still double check it every time I put it back on, but it seems to always be right, so I'm starting to trust this system now! I need to get a little more ruler for the end of the fence. Since the fence starts at near 8" (because of the distance between the right (cutting) edge of the guide rail and the start of the fence, I'm missing 8" of ruler at the left end of the fence - which is rather annoying.

The MDF + fence combination slide off of the rail by loosing the 4 counter-sunk 5/16" bolts along the top. There are 3 on the guiderail side, and one at the other end of the fence - none under the fence. The three on the guide-rail side are to help lock the mdf in place despite the fact that it has a notch in the middle where the saw runs through it. I'm hoping that replacing the mdf with aluminum will make it all more solid and allow me to use only 2 or 3 bolts to hold it on place (though I don't need to take it off very often). When I re-do it with the aluminum, I'll also be adding another one of those plastic stops to the left edge of the top of the guide rail, so that when I take the fence assembly off and on it will always go back to the same place (I measure it now).

Note that I use home-made parallel guides for longer cuts - they work great. I just made them and used them for the first time last week, breaking down 6 sheets of MDF and plywood in the back yard (my MFT is on saw-horses, so very portable). I was surprised at how precise the parallel guides could be when you're just eye-balling the position of the stop. The stops are simply angles of aluminum with a hole drilled for a hex-bolt that rides in the incra "T-Track+" - cost for the pair: $30.
 
Disclaimer: my shop is usually a little messy, and dirty (it's in the very-unfinished basement of an 1850's townhouse) but rarely this messy! This is after 2 hectic days of working on a couple of built-in cabinets for my wife's store.

Cheers,
Chris

« Last Edit: May 18, 2010, 09:16 AM by CList »

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Looks more like an OR to me, can't even see the saw dust! I wish I would have that much space in my workshop/ basement!

I have the same Stanley saw horses and love them, although you need two hands to get the extension out.

As Corwing recommended I've ordered a few extra tracks to build a parallel guide like yours or other jigs and fixtures. I'll post photos as soon as the order arrives.
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline CList

  • Posts: 46
Looks more like an OR to me, can't even see the saw dust!

LOL!

As Corwing recommended I've ordered a few extra tracks to build a parallel guide like yours or other jigs and fixtures. I'll post photos as soon as the order arrives.

That's a good choice. I also mounted the ttrack+ into the fence for my miter saw and use it as a stop. The way the rule slides in the track to do the initial adjustment is very nice and simple. The one thing I don't like about the ttrack+ and the miter fence I have is the way the rule comes in two pieces - it's so annoying to have to get them to overlap and align correctly, and I have yet to be able to figure out why they would make the rulers in pieces that way.

Cheers,
C

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
I had a new idea how to build a proper extension to hold the Positioner or any other addition such as a router table. Using two of the MFT/3 connectors (just like the ones to connect two guide rails, but thicker) is one way or maybe half, because some feet would be needed to reinforce the extension to hold a router with table.

Buying the MFT/3 VL extension is possible (at least here in Europe), but then you would need the CMS Router module and your budget is already over the top for the MFT-VL. Since the CMS Module is pretty thin (aluminum) building or customizing your own router table top for the MFT Extension is probably not that easy because of this thickness. The only thing that could work is a proper sized aluminum plate, but then I guess you get near the cost for the Festool module.

While writing the review of the new Kapex extension KA-UG

Kapex Extension

and its additional use as an MFT/3 extension, I had the idea to order two of these feet and attach them to the router table top. Together with the MFT connectors on the other side you'll just need to adjust the thickness of the router table top to connect it with the MFT or maybe even add the KA-UG V attchement instead. I'll check out prices and post an update later.



The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline mikeneron

  • Posts: 217
Note that I use home-made parallel guides for longer cuts - they work great. I just made them and used them for the first time last week, breaking down 6 sheets of MDF and plywood in the back yard (my MFT is on saw-horses, so very portable). I was surprised at how precise the parallel guides could be when you're just eye-balling the position of the stop. The stops are simply angles of aluminum with a hole drilled for a hex-bolt that rides in the incra "T-Track+" - cost for the pair: $30.

I would definitely like to see some more closeup pictures of how you set these up.

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
It's amazing, the shippment from the UK to Germany took only 2 days! Of corse the weather finally turned summer this weekend and now I have to play down in the shop with the Incra Positioner!

Aynway this is just a preview, but it shows that the 25" was the right choice.

The Festool clamp fits in the positioner track, at least up to the angle, but the track can only be clamped on one side since the MFT holes are a little further appart. I guess I will mount the Positioner on a plate and than clamp it to the MFT. I just can't bring myself to drill holes into the MFT surface.

One thing I can confirm from playing with the Positioner is its 100 % firmness and rigidity! Once you close the red lever it's locked tight and wont move a bit not even at the far end, but can still be micro adjusted by the red wheel.

Once it's attched, I will post more pictures. I hope the fence can be installed on both sides (looks that way) so that I have the Incra logos pointing in the right direction. Without that, the proper operation would probably be compromized! LOL!





« Last Edit: May 21, 2010, 06:13 AM by Festoller »
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
I couldn't resist, there was that one cloud and so I had to go down the basement and start playing with INCRA!

Here's the first set up on a Multiplex plate, but I have to add a few more details to make it easier for square attachment. If you don't need the Positioner to be aligned to the Festool hole grid and only towards the guide rail it's a lot easier! Again I am amazed by the rigidness of this Incra. Unfortunately you can't change the fence from the right to the left side, that's why the micro adjuster is upside down, but that really doesn't matter.

Although the INCRA gold does not match the Festool aluminum, the teeth on the fence are almost 100% match to the Festool green!LOL! Love it!

There is of course one thing I have to admit, it probably is a little too much! But then you can still use it for routing and once I have the router table attched it all makes sense! Compared to the price of a Leigh Dovetail Jig even just for routing, the Incra is much cheaper and more versatile.

If anyone has suggestions for attching the router table please feel free to help me out.




The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
That Incra LS Positioner sure looks good on your MFT!

If you don't want to go with the CMS because of the inserts, you could make something similar by ordering from the MFT parts list.  If you were to order the four side profiles from the MFT/3 Kapex, four corner brackets (2 left and 2 right) with all the hardware and either two MFT/3 leg sets or one set and the table connectors you could then make your own top to mount your router.  Hmmm, maybe it would be cheaper to just order another MFT/3 -- I didn't check prices.  You can probably save a bundle making your own table rather than use these Festool parts -- but, the Festool route would fit the 'system' nicely.

Sorry, but I really should have recommended that you purchase the package that includes the Wonder Fence.  I wish that I had done so when I purchased my LS.

I'll be interested to see how your setup progresses.
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Don't worry I didn't take the Wonder Fence because my first priority was the MFT/ saw set up and I can still upgrade to the Wonder later, if needed, even if that's a little more expensive. I don't think I will use many of the dovetail aplications anyway, although the vacuum port is probably a good addition.

I started counting the parts for the MFT-VL and just the lift and table top of the CMS OF (without fence) are quite expensive. Although that would be the perfect solution. Since I already have a (looks like the Kreg top) router table for the OF 1010 I will probably try to connect it to the MFT first, even if that's without lift. Is there actually a third party lift for the OF1010?

I could however end up ruining my DIY router table top and then get the MFT-VL with the CMS Module anyway at the end of the day. Has anyone shipped the Festop to Europe? I should ask if they do and how much the shipping would be. Having two MFTs connected and one with Festop would be even better.
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline RonWen

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What a fantastic setup!  It certainly adds a high level of precision to sawing on the MFT.

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
I've started counting the different router attachment solutions and since it's obviously impossible to get a third party OF 1010 lift, one would have to buy a new table top, router and lift. That brings the budget up a little and the MFT/3-VL extension with the CMS OF module (without Festool fence) seems more reasonable now.

The MFT/3-VL is EUR 368 (US$ 467)



and if I counted right the whole CMS OF 1010 Module without fence (just the insert and lift) will cost EUR 253 (US$ 320)



compared to EUR 462 (US$ 586) for the whole system with fence.



The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
A little development!

I didn't want to clamp the LS (mounted on the Multiplex board) directly on the MFT without any MFT grid support, because:

1. I'd have to allign it every single time and it could still move and ruin the squareness of the cut, especially for larger workpieces and

2. I want to use it on the extra router table, that I would position next to the MFT. Since the non- Incra router table tops are too small to take the LS I can mount the LS on the MFT and allign the router table on any of the sides (I'll post pictures of the router set up later).

3. Extending the lenght of the cut in other words get the LS off of the MFT as an attachment. Here's what I came up with for now. It's really square and rigid!

I really need more Festools just to see what else could be done with the parts!

What you need:

2 bench dogs
1 Kapex Crown Molding Extension (2 are even better)
some screws that fit the Festool rail or Festool clamps)





 
The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Kodi Crescent

  • Posts: 720
Resurrecting an old thread:

I am thinking about doing something like this.  However, as someone pointed out in a thread on a similar topic, the cuts are limited to greater than the width of the guiderail.

But, I had an idea for how you could cut smaller pieces.  You could create a sacrificial fence for the LS positioner using MDF.  The bottom of the MDF could have another piece of MDF attached, forming a 90 degree angle.  You then attach the fence to the LS positioner, slide the lower portion of the 90 degree MDF assembly under the guide rail and cut.  The lower portion would then match the width between the edge of the rail and the kerf.

Theoretically, you could then cut smaller pieces using the LS positioner, and the small pieces would be available under the guide rail.  Does it sound reasonable, or is there something wrong with my logic?

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
I am building a split top roubo with an Incra TS installed in the split. The top slabs are 26"76"3" with a 8" split. The center support beam (underneath the split) has t-tracks with t-track locks to accept the Incra TS system and keep it parallel to the track. The sides of the top have two sets of parallel t-tracks to support a festool style bracket for the guide rail. I am not using the original fence on the Incra system, I opted for a 80/20inc extrusion that is .5" thick so that the fence can slide under the festool guide rail and cut stock as thin as the fence dimension, and to a very small width with repeated accuracy. The system also utilizes a Incra miter gauge with a custom bracket that attaches in the same fashion as the Festool MFT systems. I had the top slabs CNC bored with 3/4" holes so I can use qwas style dogs for all alignment, and veritas bench accessories. Placing the fence below table surface provides the capability of ripping thin stock, but more importantly, allows you to use the Incra-Festool system for narrow rips. For safety I position the fence to the right side of the track to eliminate the risk of kick back from pinning both sides of the cut.

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline RonWen

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I am building a split top roubo with an Incra TS installed in the split. The top slabs are 26"76"3" with a 8" split. The center support beam (underneath the split) has t-tracks with t-track locks to accept the Incra TS system and keep it parallel to the track. The sides of the top have two sets of parallel t-tracks to support a festool style bracket for the guide rail. I am not using the original fence on the Incra system, I opted for a 80/20inc extrusion that is .5" thick so that the fence can slide under the festool guide rail and cut stock as thin as the fence dimension, and to a very small width with repeated accuracy. The system also utilizes a Incra miter gauge with a custom bracket that attaches in the same fashion as the Festool MFT systems. I had the top slabs CNC bored with 3/4" holes so I can use qwas style dogs for all alignment, and veritas bench accessories. Placing the fence below table surface provides the capability of ripping thin stock, but more importantly, allows you to use the Incra-Festool system for narrow rips. For safety I position the fence to the right side of the track to eliminate the risk of kick back from pinning both sides of the cut.

Welcome to the forum!
Your project sounds great, please post some pictures when available.

Offline plouf

  • Posts: 44
Hi Festoller,

Coming back again to your very interesting post. With a question: is the narrow block of wood (that sit under the carriage clamp) just there to ease the alignment the LS positionner or is it for another purpose that I can't figure out?

Thanks for your help!

regards,

- plouf -

« Last Edit: April 09, 2013, 02:40 PM by plouf »

Offline Iwood75

  • Posts: 122
Love your set-up! However, if you do add the Wonder Fence, don't count on its vacuum port to do its job.
I have the Incra router table/Positioner/Wonder Fence package and the DC is my only complaint. The dust and chips just don't want to travel all the way to the end of the fence.  Incra strongly recommends an under-table solution and even has a plan for one on their website. I'll be building one as soon as I can get to it.  Joel
More is never enough.

Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2631
Hi Festoller,

Coming back again to your very interesting post. With a question: is the narrow block of wood (that sit under the carriage clamp) just there to ease the alignment the LS positionner or is it for another purpose that I can't figure out?


I'm sure that the narrow block is mounted on the larger wood base [90 degrees to the front edge] to help align the LS with the wood base, which in turn butts up against some dogs aligning the whole unit with the MFT's grid of 20mm holes.  

It has been six years or so since I have mounted my LS on my MFT, but I used to simply align the LS with the table Guide Rail by simply butting the LS''s fence up against the backside of the Guide Rail and then clamp the base in place.  Quick and easy enough, but Festoller's method looks great too.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2013, 06:27 PM by Corwin »
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline Alan m

  • Posts: 3304
Love your set-up! However, if you do add the Wonder Fence, don't count on its vacuum port to do its job.
I have the Incra router table/Positioner/Wonder Fence package and the DC is my only complaint. The dust and chips just don't want to travel all the way to the end of the fence.  Incra strongly recommends an under-table solution and even has a plan for one on their website. I'll be building one as soon as I can get to it.  Joel

i have the incra ls and wonder fence. i have my ct22 extracting the dust with the 50mm hose from the boom arm
the dust did build up in the extrusion and in the non extracted extrusion.
i removed the black end cap from the non extracted extrusion to let the air be drawn through there
the dust colection in improved an lot
i havnt  as much suction out away from the joining but anything that goes into the joining is extracted  perfectly. the fence is rarely away from the bit anyway
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

Offline Festoller

  • Posts: 234
Hi Festoller,

Coming back again to your very interesting post. With a question: is the narrow block of wood (that sit under the carriage clamp) just there to ease the alignment the LS positionner or is it for another purpose that I can't figure out?

Thanks for your help!

regards,

- plouf -



Hi plouf,

yes it's just for simple alignment, no other purpose!

The fact that we live at the bottom of a deep gravity well, on the surface of a gas covered planet going around a nuclear fireball 90 million miles away and think this to be normal is obviously some indication of how skewed our perspective tends to be. -Douglas Adams-

Offline Iwood75

  • Posts: 122
Hi Alan,

Would you please detail your Wonder Fence DC set-up a little further? I'm not understanding what you mean by "non extracted extrusion." I'd like to try your idea before building Incra's under-table DC. Photos would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks!  Joel
More is never enough.

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
Joel

As I understand Allan's jargon, he's referring to the extrusion closest to the operator as being non-extracted. The DC connection is only on the rear extrusion, the fence itself is split to allow for larger router bits. There's a small plastic piece that floats between the two extrusions to help with closing the holes on the rear of the fence. Could be wrong but that's how I read it.

Offline Alan m

  • Posts: 3304
sean is mostly correct.
there are two extrusions. the infeed side adn the out feed side of the bit. the out feed side has the dc port. the infeed side is blocked on the end nearest to the operater. i removed the square end cap. you can now look down through the two axtrusions and ut the dc port.

i will get a pic for you
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

Offline Reiska

  • Posts: 1162
  • Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
The LS positioner has the attachment T-tracks on 5½" centres so you clearly cannot just screw two jig dogs to the track and drop it into an MFT-tables holes, but would it work with a similar support plate as pictures above with four jig dogs bolted through the base at 96mm centers in a 192mm x 192mm (3 x 3 holes) pattern and screwed tight under the MFT with the spare Festool clamp knobs that everyone has? Or would four dog be an overkill? Maybe two dogs at opposing  corners?

What I'm trying to achieve with this idea is to
- get rid of the clamping need (substitute with dogs and under table screws)
- have the attachment system self-aligning and
- also land at a freely movable fence system along lenght of the MFT-table to be able to reach to a CMS-VL module tool but at the same time enable fence support as far as the far end of the MFT since even the 635mm version of the incra only reaches about half way across the MFT if it is attached to the edge like in Festollers case.



The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. [big grin]

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
Reiska,

Incra makes a cross member for their fence to be used with their tablesaw system. Check the dimensions of the cross member to see if it could line up with the MFT. Then you could attach the fence system to the t tracks on the MFT rails rather than the dog holes. Dog holes could still be used for alignment but you wouldn't have to reach under the table to attach your fence.
 
Update: on incramentaltools.com they offer an Mount Kit XL with a 33" range. That should be wide enough to accommodate the MFT at around 30". You may need to make brackets however.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2013, 06:06 PM by Sean KS »

Offline Reiska

  • Posts: 1162
  • Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
Hmm.. this thread is rapidly sliding towards an expensive thought experiment...

Played a bit with Sketchup and mocked up a visualization of an Incra XL tablesaw positioner (34" wide fence, 52" long positioner - apparently 52" is only marketing speak and the picture is vaporware since the longest positioner incra has is a 32" one which is reflected in picture #2) on top of an MFT/3 + MFT-VL extension with mocked up V-groove supports for the fence to support the weight/torgue of the positioner when extended.

85407-0 85409-1

What I'm thinking here is to minimize the required parts (get rid of the Incra lenght wise tracks, cross members and side attachment plates) to keep storage simple, but at the same time retain accuracy, repeatablity and usability.

Wonder would something like this work in real life with jig dogs used for positioning and under table knob tightening without the table wide cross member at the positioner end that was mentioned above and that comes with the Incra LS-TS package?
« Last Edit: April 19, 2013, 04:52 AM by Reiska »
The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. [big grin]

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
Does Incra make a 52" positioner? I know they advertise 52" rip capacity but I've only seen 32" positioners. If you've spotted a longer on let me know I'd be very interested. I like the simplicity of your design with the really long positioner though.

Offline Fridolin

  • Posts: 17
My variation on this theme (which i did a while ago) needs only raildogs to fasten the Incra LS Positioner.
It is installed and calibrated in minutes.

Offline Reiska

  • Posts: 1162
  • Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
Unfortunately after reading the fine print you seem to be correct Sean - they indeed only have a 32" positioner and the 52" is just marketing speak - dang! [sad]
The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. [big grin]

Offline Kev

  • Posts: 7651
My thinking was a 25" positioner ... If you adapt it to a "bench dog base" you can simply move it- I just don't like the idea of a really long positioner.

Offline Reiska

  • Posts: 1162
  • Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
Yes Kev, I think you are rather correct in your assessment.

If you need to move the positioner anyway for wider cuts it doesn't really matter if you have a 25" or 32" positioner since both will have about two positions on the table to cover the whole lenght of the MTF+VL unit and the shorter fence obviously stores in a smaller space as well and probably doesn't need the V-track supports either.

Just adds a bit of complexity to find a suitable nice round offset distance for the further position to add in your head to the fence tape measure instead of working in brain-dead mode with a single long fence that you can just look at the number on the tape. Would hate to have to add 647mm to every measurement in my head  [tongue]
The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. [big grin]

Offline Michael_Swe

  • Posts: 362
The measuring tape on the Incra is slideable to enable it to be re-zeroed anywhere. There is four or five slots for sliding tapes, so you can have one tape loaded for each position you put the positioner in. The slots are for having multiple pattern tapes loaded at once so you won't need to switch tape between different join types (dovetail, box, etc).

I would do like this:
Make a "reset-block" which would be inserted in a dog hole and calibrate it to have a nice even number of millimeters to the kerf.
Put the LS fence against the block and rezero the appropriate tape measure.
Best would be if this tape measure really is the long end of a longer tape, i.e actually shows the real distance to the kerf.
Maybe color code the two tapes so you don't mistakenly measure off of the wrong tape.

I don't know if the above is understandable as I think you haven't seen the LS up close. I think it would work great, though. I'd happily arrange for some mock up photos for this arrangement if the words are not clear enough.

//Michael

Offline Reiska

  • Posts: 1162
  • Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
I hear you loud and clear Michael. The tricky bit is to find that nicely suitable even amount of mm to adjust to for the second position. Or possibly actually three positions if one would use the 25" standard LS positioner to cover the whole length of the MFT. Edit: Ok, reading some more fineprint the incra spec sheets state the _travel_ of the fence as the 17/25/32" and this does not include the locking assembly. So actually the 25" version is rather conveniently sized after all at an actual lenght of 860mm.

Since I don't have a VL module I can't measure how long exactly would the MFT/3 + VL up to the TS-saw blade be and there is very little in the way of dimensions available on the net about the VL-unit - 480mm x 773mm was about what I found. With a guesstimate that the saw blade would be abt. in the middle of the VL table that would leave still 1400mm of "saw table" space minus what ever the incra positioner takes space. With a travel of 635mm (25") that would mean three positions to cover the entire length of the table.

Here is a corrected version of the two possible 25" fence positions mocked up:

85437-0

Not that I believe it would not be very often that I would be ripping something closer to 1400mm wide on a table mounted TS against a fence rather than just going at it with the saw on track.

Nor do I believe I would be trying to do dovetail joints that wide on this system with the router module mounted in the VL. So in a way this is a a bit academic I guess.  [embarassed]

If the 810mm (32") table saw positioner model could be used that would nicely cover the whole table length with only two positions and have some overlap as well to aid finding that 'nice and round offset'.

On a related note, how wide boards you can realistically dovetail on an incra positioner with the jumbo right angle fixture? All videos of it show nice drawer-side sized pieces clamped to it but can you get anywhere near a leigh d4r's 24" of capacity? That would mean pretty much max extension of the incra with a support area only at one corner - I have a hard time believing that nothing would move while being slid over a router...  Just asking to calibrate my expectations on the possibilities of this fence system... [wink]
« Last Edit: April 19, 2013, 07:41 PM by Reiska »
The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. [big grin]

Offline dicktill

  • Posts: 302
Is the joint between the Incra positioner and the Incra fence so stiff that it prevents this system from making out-of-square / out-of-parallel cuts?

Offline Michael_Swe

  • Posts: 362
You don't need to find a nice even amount of millimeters. Just cut a set-up block with dimensions that takes care of your uneven numbers.

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
Reiska,

It is possible to do long dovetails with the system. The supplied templates are 18" long or so, I've never pushed it passed that so I cannot attest to the precision. However, the right angle fixture can be tricky to navigate that wide of boards. To aid I use jigs. Place a fence on top of the right angle fixture. I use a miter slider in my table saw miter slot (you could use your sliding table on the router module) and attach the fence to the slide. It remains rigid on the miter slide in the linear direction, but can slide laterally when you move the incra fence to a new cut position. I used 80/20 components from around the shop for this. Using this method you have more support on the far end of the workpiece to ensure nothing slips out of alignment. It gave me good results. I wish now I had taken some pictures of the set-up.

I do believe your system would benefit from your idea of locking the rip fence to the v-groove. The incra system is very rigid without engaging the lock on the front of the rip fence. But when it's tightened to the table saw rail in the front it really cannot move anywhere.

I like your project very much, I hope it comes together to fit your needs,
Sean KS

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Reiska,

It is possible to do long dovetails with the system. The supplied templates are 18" long or so, I've never pushed it passed that so I cannot attest to the precision. However, the right angle fixture can be tricky to navigate that wide of boards. To aid I use jigs. Place a fence on top of the right angle fixture. I use a miter slider in my table saw miter slot (you could use your sliding table on the router module) and attach the fence to the slide. It remains rigid on the miter slide in the linear direction, but can slide laterally when you move the incra fence to a new cut position. I used 80/20 components from around the shop for this. Using this method you have more support on the far end of the workpiece to ensure nothing slips out of alignment. It gave me good results. I wish now I had taken some pictures of the set-up.

I do believe your system would benefit from your idea of locking the rip fence to the v-groove. The incra system is very rigid without engaging the lock on the front of the rip fence. But when it's tightened to the table saw rail in the front it really cannot move anywhere.

I like your project very much, I hope it comes together to fit your needs,
Sean KS

Bumping this thread.  I take delivery of my Incra LS-25 tomorrow and plan on setting some stuff up this weekend for a few projects.  I won't give it all away now, but it involves my MFT, my CMS-VL (using the sliding table) and this positioner.  I have done a TON of research here and elsewhere in trying to find MY optimal setup.  I think this will be very close...  I plan on using this all in great concert to achieve a lot of items for my kitchen projects:
  • Dovetails for drawers
  • quicker repeatability on rails and stiles
  • a lot more control over my CMS' current fence setup (no offense Festool  [wink])
  • I am sure a lot more as i get setup and running

I am very interested in "connecting" the LS slider and my sliding table on the CMS.  I think it can be done to do wide dovetails and is part of the reason I went with the LS-25 instead of the 17.

I will do my best to snap pics and document as best I can...

cheers

Bryan
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline GhostFist

  • Posts: 1556
Crazy that this thread was just brought to my attention. I've been dreaming up a solution for fast paralell rip cuts with my mafell track system, which differs from festool's version as it has no t-track on top. Long story short, I figured bumping the rail up to the incra fence might be the ultimate solution, and it looks like I'm not alone in this thought. Awesome thread!

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
On a related note for all of you Incra owners... which bits do you prefer?  I have heard a lot of good on the CMT and Whiteside sets.  I have some Whiteside bits and believe you can never go wrong with them, but have heard equally good topics on the CMTs.

Any vote one way or another?  I have pretty much boiled it down to those two.

cheers
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Peter Durand

  • Posts: 191
I have both manufacturers' bits. Overall, well can't say. If I was to buy another bit, I would probably steer to Whiteside.

However I have found that the Freud Quadra bits are all they say they are. Unfortunately they only come in limited shapes.

Offline amt

  • Posts: 379
Can't wait to hear about the Incra LS plus the Festool slider.  I have not done any dovetails on my Incra yet, but I have some concerns (maybe unfounded) about the "slider" that is normally used with the Incra fence.  I am actually wondering if I can use a Incra miter with the Wonderfence, and I am hoping that the Festool slider combination will give me some ideas.

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
bkharman

I vote CMT, never had a quality issue. The only reason I use a lot of them and less whiteside is because the CMT case at my local McGuckin Hardware is always stocked up. The only difference in quality that I've seen is when moving to larger bits on 1/2 shanks. Whiteside beat the pants of CMT's at that point in industrial quality.

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
amt,

Me and that right angle fixture have some serious beef. It cuts darn fine dovetails on narrow stock, it takes some time and attention to do drawer boxes with that thing though. The problem in the system is isolated to that one part. If I were to do my set up over again, and Im planning to, I'd use a Jess'em fence and Miter Slide attachment. Thinking about this system for larger joinery I think the Festool sliding table can be linked to the whole system. If you replaced the Jess'em miter fence with a Techno-Isel extrusion you could easily clamp the work piece to the miter fence with festool clamps. And attach the fence to the Festool sliding table for greater stability, smoother slide, and less deflection risk. Then you could really use that Incra postioner for all its 32" of glory.

Offline amt

  • Posts: 379
Sean, that sounds like a nice solution, but I am hoping I do not have to by the CMS just to use only the sliding table.  When I bought the TS-LS-joinery combo, I also got a router table top with a miter and t-slot channel close to the router insert, similar to what you have pictured above (but not a metal top).  I was hoping I could use that channel for sliding while using the LS+wonder-fence.

Perhaps another option is a sliding table saw attachment.  I know jessem has one, but I can't find any for sale.  Maybe the Grizzly one would work.

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline amt

  • Posts: 379
I had a look at the Techno-Isel extrusion parts, and that stuff looks really cool.  I may just build my own slider.  Not sure if the slider would be mounted against the Incra fence, or just bolted to the table top to the left of the router nisert (Incra fence to the right)

Offline NuggyBuggy

  • Posts: 419
I have some concerns (maybe unfounded) about the "slider" that is normally used with the Incra fence.[/b
]
Your concerns are not unfounded.  Their right-angle fence is, in my opinion, a glaring weak link in their packages.  It the ugliest of ducklings in the  Incra family.

The RAF connects to the main fence only via nylon screws which slide along the top of the back of the fence.  This region is very narrow so it is very easy for the thing to deregister- so it never feels secure, and you have to be careful about how or where pressure is exerted so as not to make the thing pop out. 

I don't know what Incra was thinking - it renders an otherwise great product - well, less great.  There are no shortages of complaints out there.  On Sawmill Creek I'm pretty sure there's another thread where a guy used the Jessem Mite-R-slide with an Incra fence... it was something I thought about as I also have the Jessem.

 
“I am on a drug. It’s called Charlie Sheen.”

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
found a thread @ Lumberjocks with Pix their pix are blocked here
google ;   Jessem Mite-R-slide with an Incra fence

 looks like the direction I'm going in soon
 saved the pix to my PC
  I think a 80/20 rail would work as a mount & I'd offset it more off the table to get more usable area to slide from
« Last Edit: November 15, 2013, 09:24 PM by Slappy »
Mike

Offline Sean KS

  • Posts: 93
Amt,

The sliding table is just a bonus. The jessem/incra setup would work like a champ without a sliding table. I'd be careful building your own miter slider. I don't think the tolerances are tight enough with a standard aluminum extrusion bearing. They can be pretty sloppy and don't like being torqued. A fully enclosed linear rod bearing is really what is called for in this situation and the Jessem is way cheaper than building one out yourself. These high precision tools take you way out of Kansas and is not a game even the avid DIYer should play. I've ordered the Miter Slider for an up coming project. Ill let you know my thoughts when it gets some use.


Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
Sean , let us know how you mount that Jessem Sliding miter onto the Incra fence  ( you are using the add-on Wonder Fence right   ?  ? )
 I found a deal the Jessem silder so I think I'm gonna get it & the LS system .
Mike

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Hmm.. this thread is rapidly sliding towards an expensive thought experiment...

Played a bit with Sketchup and mocked up a visualization of an Incra XL tablesaw positioner (34" wide fence, 52" long positioner - apparently 52" is only marketing speak and the picture is vaporware since the longest positioner incra has is a 32" one which is reflected in picture #2) on top of an MFT/3 + MFT-VL extension with mocked up V-groove supports for the fence to support the weight/torgue of the positioner when extended.

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

What I'm thinking here is to minimize the required parts (get rid of the Incra lenght wise tracks, cross members and side attachment plates) to keep storage simple, but at the same time retain accuracy, repeatablity and usability.

Wonder would something like this work in real life with jig dogs used for positioning and under table knob tightening without the table wide cross member at the positioner end that was mentioned above and that comes with the Incra LS-TS package?

Reiska,

Did you ever advance on this?  I have my Incra LS-25 "quasi" mounted on my MFT/VL combo currently but like the additional small bits of v-groove you added.  I am wondering if you ever finished this project?

I have mine mounted (as a temporary solution until my 25 mm bit comes in) with two Qwas Rail Dogs and two MFT clamping elements.  It is just meant as a means to get the bloody thing on the table to test out a few things!



 One of the things that caught me slightly off guard is the "play" in the fence.  It moves about 1-2mm fore and aft when you press against the fence  I figured this out... I didn't have the clamping knobs tightened on the MFT Clamping Elements below!  I found it out when I went to take the pics.  Much better (even for a temp solution!) .  I figured it wouldn't be 100% solid, and I assume my flex is in the fact i am using temporary holds on the positioner base instead of a solid lock all around.  I am very excited for this to work out.

One thought was to try out the Lee Valley low profile mounting stops, but alas I do not have them to try out.  Wanted to use those between the positioner and the MFT either with bolts through, or thread them to attach.  If anyone has them, could you let me know if the dogs are threaded to use table knobs underneath?  Would love to get my hands on two or three to test this out, they seem like the winning combo.  I am coming up with a 2nd place item to mimic that effort, but again, waiting for my 25mm bit to arrive.

cheers

Bryan  

PS - Additional pics (as promised!)









« Last Edit: November 20, 2013, 04:58 PM by bkharman »
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline plouf

  • Posts: 44
Hi bkharman,

PS - Pics coming soon...

Looking forward to see your solution to this problem too!

- plouf -

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
 I just scored a  Jessem Mite-R-slide @ 25% off  a few days ago & am getting the LS super system as well next week .
 so am looking forward to getting these mated up  to each other . .
So I look forward to you guy's work on this project  [blink]
Mike

Offline dicktill

  • Posts: 302
I just scored a  Jessem Mite-R-slide @ 25% off  a few days ago &  . .

Where did you get the Mite-R-Slide Slappy?

Thanks, Dick

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
more Pix I found on the web : 2 different set-ups

Mike

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
I just scored a  Jessem Mite-R-slide @ 25% off  a few days ago &  . .

Where did you get the Mite-R-Slide Slappy?

Thanks, Dick
Amazon had one that was from their warehouse deals
Mike

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Pics uploaded above. Very easy to do via mobile by the way!
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline plouf

  • Posts: 44
Hello bkharman,

Pics uploaded above.

Very nice! Using the rail dogs was a known trick already mentionned here around. But fixing the other side with the clamping elements is a kiss and clever idea. Thanks for posting the pictures.

- plouf -

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Thanks plouf!

It actually holds fairly well too!!

I hope to have my final version ready later this weekend.  Hope to get my 20 and 25 mm bits soon enough.

cheers
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Got my JessEm clear cut "feather boards" today and slapped them on. Ran a few boards through it. I am really liking this setup!  I know it isn't 100% yet, but it works so well. Quickly running through repeat routes and accurately setting things with the micro knob make this a million times better than the Festool fence. No offense Festool, but the fence is the weak link in my CMS setup.

Ultimately, I will have another MFT to the right but this will do nicely for a while.

Here are a few snaps.

Cheers.



People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
Got my JessEm clear cut "feather boards" today and slapped them on. Ran a few boards through it. I am really liking this setup!  I know it isn't 100% yet, but it works so well. Quickly running through repeat routes and accurately setting things with the micro knob make this a million times better than the Festool fence. No offense Festool, but the fence is the weak link in my CMS setup.

Ultimately, I will have another MFT to the right but this will do nicely for a while.
NICE !
 I ordered a LS Super with the 32 LS on Friday incremetaltools gave me 10% off the whole order
 Last week I got the Jessem slider glides system from Amazon for 25% off
I got those Jessem clear guides as well
I still have more parts to order
 look forward to more pix from you
Mike

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Thanks Slappy!  Awesome find on those deals.  I got some penny saving deals off and on, but most of it was just being in the right place at the right time.  By the way, forgot to mention, even with the temporary holding system for this LS, the thing is solid and friggin accurate.  I ran into some difficulties with trying to bore my 20MM holes 96mm on center... but with the rail dogs and clamping elements, it went through about 10 door builds in maple and MDF panels this weekend.  Bryan is a happy camper!  It takes about 30 seconds to take on and off and maybe another 30 seconds to fiddle with it a bit for accuracy and after i get my more permanent mounting solution in place, it should be very adequate.

Bryan
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
Thanks Slappy!  Awesome find on those deals.  I got some penny saving deals off and on, but most of it was just being in the right place at the right time.  By the way, forgot to mention, even with the temporary holding system for this LS, the thing is solid and friggin accurate.  I ran into some difficulties with trying to bore my 20MM holes 96mm on center... but with the rail dogs and clamping elements, it went through about 10 door builds in maple and MDF panels this weekend.  Bryan is a happy camper!  It takes about 30 seconds to take on and off and maybe another 30 seconds to fiddle with it a bit for accuracy and after i get my more permanent mounting solution in place, it should be very adequate.

Bryan
I got a AL 1/4" thick plate from 80/20 on Ebay , I plan on mounting the LS on that & then mount some ( 4 )  Qwas mini rails on the AL plate's underside  to match the MFT hole pattern so then it's just a "drop-in-item" in seconds
« Last Edit: November 25, 2013, 06:13 PM by Slappy »
Mike

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
If you call Incra @ Incramentaltools.com has a 10% holiday discount right now
you have to ask
Mike

Offline Michael Garrett

  • Posts: 410
What about putting threaded inserts in the MFT top to mount positioner?
CT 26 HEPA, MFT/3 (2), TS 75 EQ, OF 1400 EQ,  DF 500 SET, CXS SET, C 15+3 SET, Ti-15 Basic, CENTROTEC INSTALLER SET 98-PC, TRADESMAN/INSTALLER CLEANING SET, DOMINO ASSORTMENT SYSTEM, LR 32 HOLE DRILLING SET, GUIDE RAIL FS 3000 (1), GUIDE RAIL ACCESSORY KIT, GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2  (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1900/2  (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2 LR 32  (1), Veritas MFT Clamping Kit,  Imperial & Metric Zorbo Forstner Bit Sets, RO 90, ETS 150/3, PSB 420 EBQ w/Accessory Kit, WCR-1000, PARALLEL GUIDE SET, CT 26 BOOM ARM SET, Veritas® Drilling Kit, MFK 700 EQ Router Set

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
What about putting threaded inserts in the MFT top to mount positioner?
I M O ,
 the convenience & speed factor of placement with a plate mount & the Qwas rail dogs , that and you can still use a the MFT holes for other uses when the LS in not on the table 
as  long as your mount plate for the LS is square to the MFT holes & the Qwas doggies have no slop your golden
Mike

Offline Michael Garrett

  • Posts: 410
What about putting threaded inserts in the MFT top to mount positioner?
I M O ,
 the convenience & speed factor of placement with a plate mount & the Qwas rail dogs , that and you can still use a the MFT holes for other uses when the LS in not on the table 
as  long as your mount plate for the LS is square to the MFT holes & the Qwas doggies have no slop your golden

I think this is quick at about 7.05:
CT 26 HEPA, MFT/3 (2), TS 75 EQ, OF 1400 EQ,  DF 500 SET, CXS SET, C 15+3 SET, Ti-15 Basic, CENTROTEC INSTALLER SET 98-PC, TRADESMAN/INSTALLER CLEANING SET, DOMINO ASSORTMENT SYSTEM, LR 32 HOLE DRILLING SET, GUIDE RAIL FS 3000 (1), GUIDE RAIL ACCESSORY KIT, GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2  (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1900/2  (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2 LR 32  (1), Veritas MFT Clamping Kit,  Imperial & Metric Zorbo Forstner Bit Sets, RO 90, ETS 150/3, PSB 420 EBQ w/Accessory Kit, WCR-1000, PARALLEL GUIDE SET, CT 26 BOOM ARM SET, Veritas® Drilling Kit, MFK 700 EQ Router Set

Offline Slappy

  • Posts: 567
What about putting threaded inserts in the MFT top to mount positioner?
I M O ,
 the convenience & speed factor of placement with a plate mount & the Qwas rail dogs , that and you can still use a the MFT holes for other uses when the LS in not on the table 
as  long as your mount plate for the LS is square to the MFT holes & the Qwas doggies have no slop your golden

I think this is quick at about 7.05:
that's a great idea but you would still have to secure/tighten those bolts from under the table  (they don't show that part in the vid )   
and your locked into only using the LS on that part of the table  by using the MFT holes & dogs you can use the LS anywhere on table
 you can even use the Incra LS as a parallel cut guide with a fixed TS55 rail & dogs on the rail as well .
Mike

Offline freddmc

  • Posts: 13
Having just set up my LS positioner on my LS table saw fence I can tell you that simply sliding the positioner over the 4 bolts will allow SIGNIFICANT movement of the fence(by probably up to 20 degrees) So it will take more than a few minutes to adjust it so the fence will be 90 degrees. Of course that could be speeded up by using a jig of some sort..

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
I attempted to route out a plate this weekend with my 20mm bit to allow quick setup. It didn't work so well. The holes were snug enough (I saw some posts that the 20mm bit from Festool was not so great, I disagree) but my issue was in alignment. My fault, not the bit

As soon as I have some time (trying to finish my kitchen project) I will get back to my plate project. In the meantime, using the rail dogs and clamping elements works very well for me. I don't have alignment issues and I can get the thing on the table and aligned in under a minute. I know I am using in for routing so it has a bit more lead way, but i am still in love with this setup.
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline greg mann

  • Posts: 1840
Having just set up my LS positioner on my LS table saw fence I can tell you that simply sliding the positioner over the 4 bolts will allow SIGNIFICANT movement of the fence(by probably up to 20 degrees) So it will take more than a few minutes to adjust it so the fence will be 90 degrees. Of course that could be speeded up by using a jig of some sort..

On an MFT the jig is built in. Just push the fence up against two dogs and tighten the bolts holding the positioner in place. I would suggest doing this even if one has dogs permanently attached to the positioner base, unless the base is large enough to get some real distance between the dogs, like about five or six holes apart. If the dogs are only 192mm apart (two spaces) and one is hoping to have the Incra fence square and parallel over 30 inches or more the positioning error in the setup will be multiplied by a factor of four or more. Better to have play in the clamping mechanism and align the fence to holes in the table before tightening in position.
Greg Mann
Oakland, Michigan

Offline greg mann

  • Posts: 1840
I attempted to route out a plate this weekend with my 20mm bit to allow quick setup. It didn't work so well. The holes were snug enough (I saw some posts that the 20mm bit from Festool was not so great, I disagree) but my issue was in alignment. My fault, not the bit

As soon as I have some time (trying to finish my kitchen project) I will get back to my plate project. In the meantime, using the rail dogs and clamping elements works very well for me. I don't have alignment issues and I can get the thing on the table and aligned in under a minute. I know I am using in for routing so it has a bit more lead way, but i am still in love with this setup.

How far apart are you alignment holes, Bryan? You may want to re-think your approach. As you wrote, you can align using rail dogs in under a minute and you KNOW it is aligned using that technique.
Greg Mann
Oakland, Michigan

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983

How far apart are you alignment holes, Bryan? You may want to re-think your approach. As you wrote, you can align using rail dogs in under a minute and you KNOW it is aligned using that technique.

Greg,

My setup is using the rail dogs separated by a single hole  My main difference is that i am doing this left to right, not forward to aft. (see above pics)  So my rail dogs are inserted into the track on the LS Positioner on one side.  I my case, it is on the Lead Screw side.  Then i use the clamping elements to "push" the positioner to the rail dog side.  it is very firm for what i am doing with it.  The only time i had a slight issue was when i applied too much downward pressure to my Clear-Cut wheels and the fence lifted a bit.  As mentioned, I am still working on my final setup, but time is limited there.

Thanks for the advise.  Cheers
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Cellule

  • Posts: 54
What about something like this? seem pretty accurate.




Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
What about something like this? seem pretty accurate.





I like that a lot!  I am extending over on my MFT, so that would/could mean attaching something else bit I like that use a lot.

Slick.
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

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Offline plouf

  • Posts: 44
Hi,

What about something like this? seem pretty accurate.

Yes, accurate and sturdy. Here is the complete article from which the picture is excerpted.  

Looking at the sliding table of the Precisio CS70, it gets me wonder if one the more advanced Incra miter gauge could be use with the CMS sliding table and the LS System.

Til now, I was reluctant to add this sliding (and costly) accessory to my setup but I could think  again if only the CMS had a slot to accomodate a miter...

- plouf -
« Last Edit: February 11, 2014, 05:24 PM by plouf »

Offline TD5

  • Posts: 21
    • LRover 110  my love
I am reading and traslate this very exciting 3d due to the fact that I ld like to add an Incra positioned on my Mft3.
Being  difficult to explain in words, I made a drawn of what I've in mind - but  without the positioner in the hands ( and no exact dimensions)  I  ask you  what do you think about this
idea.
Number  1  and 2  -  in red - two pieces  hard wood  (or nr,1 aluminum and nr 2 hard wood) to reach following hole on MFT3.
In this way  the system is  fixed only with 4 Qwas  under the table and not mixt Qwas and Festool clamps.
You can move the positioned and fence from one zone to another on the Mft3 ( and also you can reach router if attached with extension table 495510 and cmd router top).

So the question is : do you think it's possible to fix Incra with this Qwas system ? it's enough? perhaps with  home built qwas fixed under the table with screws.



Miko
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kapex 120 -CMS TS55R - OF1010 - Csx - CTM 22 - TS55 - Rotex 90 -Domino 500 - MFT 3 - Carvex 420 EBQ+set +ETS150/3 +Vecturo 400 set+Oneida cyclone + many green accessories....

Offline Dave Lame

  • Posts: 78
Your idea might work.

Dimensions of positioner base. 9" long, 6 1/4" wide.  Holes, are 6" apart center to center in length and 5 1/2" in width. 3/8" from center of hole to edge of positioner in width, 1 1/2" in length.  Holes will accept 1/4" bolt.


Offline TD5

  • Posts: 21
    • LRover 110  my love
thanks a lot for all dimensions !
for sure it's possible to create only one piece  with  router instead of 2 parts.
Another idea  is  to use two Ttracks, so two slots  in the mft3 top, and in these  move the positioner base , from cutting table to router table, isn't it?
Miko
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kapex 120 -CMS TS55R - OF1010 - Csx - CTM 22 - TS55 - Rotex 90 -Domino 500 - MFT 3 - Carvex 420 EBQ+set +ETS150/3 +Vecturo 400 set+Oneida cyclone + many green accessories....

Offline Dave Lame

  • Posts: 78
In another post, SEANKS pointed out that cutting the dado for t tracks would significantly weaken the mft top.  Two tracks would be a big hit to strength of top. Possibly could reinforce from below.

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
I am working on another solution which I will post details on once it is complete and tested.

stay tuned... [popcorn]
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Cellule

  • Posts: 54





Here some pics of my setup. The dogs fit snugly and have absolutly no movement at all. I secured them with the knob that come with my veritas mft accessories kit. I just need to make an extension with the mft hole pattern and voila I have a Ls for cutting and routing with my cms  :)

Offline TD5

  • Posts: 21
    • LRover 110  my love
Bravo  Cellule! 
I was'nt informed  that also if you put a piece of wood UNDER  the base, then you can set up the fence in contact with the  table.
I thought  that also the fence stay up same "thickness"  as the base.
Perfect  thanks  a lot !
Miko
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kapex 120 -CMS TS55R - OF1010 - Csx - CTM 22 - TS55 - Rotex 90 -Domino 500 - MFT 3 - Carvex 420 EBQ+set +ETS150/3 +Vecturo 400 set+Oneida cyclone + many green accessories....

Offline b_m_hart

  • Posts: 413
I have been tinkering with this off and on for the last three or four years.  I have the 25 inch positioner on order, and am working to fit this onto my CMS.  I'll post pictures of that in another three or four years, hah.  Anyway, here's my "lovely" setup.  You can see the square in the picture - that's the easy part - nice and square like it is supposed to be.  The only "off" part is that I secure the end of it on the "wrong" side.  This was to make it so I had more than 24" of cutting capacity on the table.  I can squeeze just under 27" if a little bit hangs over the side of the mdf before the rail adapter on the side (25 1/2" on the table).



The positioner is secured with two qwas dogs underneath, and then clamped down.  I use two of the small dogs to reference to the fence when it is locked, then I clamp the base down on the side opposite the qwas dogs.  It is as rigid as you could hope for.  I'm not the strongest guy, but the table picked up and moved before the fence flexed that I could notice.  



Here's a close-up of the easy part of the job...



And now the good stuff - perfectly square to the LS.



Measurement randomly locked into place - 1'2 1/8" at the rail...



1'2 1/2" on the opposite side of the table.  That laser has a 1/16" tolerance, so the variance would seem to be less than that - which is relatively solid in my opinion.  That's just under 1.6mm - which isn't perfect, but again, this isn't a felder slider...



The current setup can handle 25" wide by 22" long with the current LS in place (soon to be 30" with the new model).  The flag stops are good for my scatter-brain self.  Just push them up against the locked in fence and they're good to go.

Offline Michael Garrett

  • Posts: 410
How much room would you get if you set the MFT fence on edge?
CT 26 HEPA, MFT/3 (2), TS 75 EQ, OF 1400 EQ,  DF 500 SET, CXS SET, C 15+3 SET, Ti-15 Basic, CENTROTEC INSTALLER SET 98-PC, TRADESMAN/INSTALLER CLEANING SET, DOMINO ASSORTMENT SYSTEM, LR 32 HOLE DRILLING SET, GUIDE RAIL FS 3000 (1), GUIDE RAIL ACCESSORY KIT, GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2  (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1900/2  (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2 LR 32  (1), Veritas MFT Clamping Kit,  Imperial & Metric Zorbo Forstner Bit Sets, RO 90, ETS 150/3, PSB 420 EBQ w/Accessory Kit, WCR-1000, PARALLEL GUIDE SET, CT 26 BOOM ARM SET, Veritas® Drilling Kit, MFK 700 EQ Router Set

Offline Dragginbutt

  • Posts: 7
This is one subject that I have been contemplating myself.  A couple shortcomings of the MFT from my perspective is when using it for a cut off table, typically I am cutting sheet goods which are 4' x 8'.  It is way too small of a surface to be useful.  Even if I add additional (And expensive) MFT's I can't get it wide enough.  I need to slide a sheet in, establish an endge that is perpendicular to the track, then measure and cut.  I can get around that by building a table large enough, throw on the sheet goods and cut.  The problem and this is a design issue with the MFT, is when I go to cut an angle.  The angle unit sets the material angle, not the track on the material.  And what I need is to be able to keep my sheet goods in place once I establish the edge is perpendicular, and move the track to establish the angle and cut.  This is where the Festool MFT angle device fails.

I do not see the INCRA device using either the rails or the Router mount as a solution to this issue.  I have thought about using the rail systems mounted on teh outside of my 4x8 table as a means to resolve this issue, but once again, the rails and teh INCRA fence system are not wide enough as well.  So it is back to square one. 

My solution is to purchase the hinge parts and another track and purchase several of the long extrusions found on the MFT sides to give me some movement while maintaining that perpendicular to the edge that I established previously and using the stops they sell for repeatability.

Offline Cellule

  • Posts: 54
Here is my current setup with my router

I dont use anymore the dual hose that came with the CMS and find that the incra dust extraction port is mutch better than the original festool one.
The only thing that I'm missing is the TS55 CMS insert.. but again it's NAINA  and the only place that I can find to get it is on EBAY and the store is in UK so the pound currency kill me at 1.82 dollard/ pound+ 100£ Shipping. I want it badly but not a 900$ canadian dollards




Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Cellule,

You and I have a very similar setup!  I have some posts here that show it, but I also have something very cool coming up soon that I think you might enjoy.

I also want the TS module but am in the same boat. Not worth the cost at this point. I was thinking of doing something on the opposite side of the table but will have to think more about it.
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Cellule

  • Posts: 54
Haha I can't whait  to see your surprise  :) me two I was thinking to another solution on the other side of the table but the CMS insert too appealing not to consider it. So i'm waiting till my next trip to europe in a year or two..

Offline CarolinaNomad

  • Posts: 305
At least someone is fulfilling my dream.  Love the setup.
Jeff
resides in NAINA

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
Haha I can't whait  to see your surprise  :) me two I was thinking to another solution on the other side of the table but the CMS insert too appealing not to consider it. So i'm waiting till my next trip to europe in a year or two..

I am not sure if you have seen my other thread, but I have the interface plate from Precision Dogs and it is awesome.  You can find the thread HERE
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline dovetails

  • Posts: 3
Hi everyone, I have just taken proud ownership of my first festools - CMS-GE and OF1400 and TS75! I am really interested in this post and appreciate most of the posts have been about the VL but having tried to investigate similar solutions for the GE, I have not seen much. However, I was thinking of adapting a plate to connect the Kapex expansion KA-UG V to the Incra LS and then add this to the GE. I would appreciate any thoughts on this and if anyone has found any workable solutions.

Offline supimeister

  • Posts: 78
Here is my current setup with my router

I dont use anymore the dual hose that came with the CMS and find that the incra dust extraction port is mutch better than the original festool one.
The only thing that I'm missing is the TS55 CMS insert.. but again it's NAINA  and the only place that I can find to get it is on EBAY and the store is in UK so the pound currency kill me at 1.82 dollard/ pound+ 100£ Shipping. I want it badly but not a 900$ canadian dollars

I am thinking about doing the same thing but with my TS55R... I think the TS55R insert part # is 570281 and I can find it on various UK dealers for like $480 USD but then add shipping... Though I don’t think I have found one who will ship to the US.

Offline Reiska

  • Posts: 1162
  • Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
So I finally got my Incra LS25 metric supersystem assembled yesterday



and did my first project on it today


Built the remaining two drawers to this lot.

It was unbelievably nice to work with and being able to cut stuff taking into account the TS55's 2.2mm kerf with the fine adjuster to get stuff cut down to 0.1mm tolerances just blows my mind. And be able to do this repeatably to infinity!

Definitely the best 500€ I've spent in a while and I haven't even had a chance to try what this will do to my routing...
The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. [big grin]

Offline bkharman

  • Posts: 1983
So I finally got my Incra LS25 metric supersystem assembled yesterday

Built the remaining two drawers to this lot.

It was unbelievably nice to work with and being able to cut stuff taking into account the TS55's 2.2mm kerf with the fine adjuster to get stuff cut down to 0.1mm tolerances just blows my mind. And be able to do this repeatably to infinity!

Definitely the best 500€ I've spent in a while and I haven't even had a chance to try what this will do to my routing...

Hey Reiska!

SO glad you finally joined the club.  I have said it before that this combo is incredibly awesome.  I am jealous that you are able to use the TS insert.  I have gone back and forth on "importing it" as it would make my workflow that much better.

Looks great and am ecstatic that your first results were spot on.

Cheers.  Bryan.
People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?

Offline Cellule

  • Posts: 54
I'm so jalous of your setup!

Offline Samo

  • Posts: 554
Add a small power feeder for those jobs that require hands free consistent runs.  [cool]

Offline mattbyington

  • Posts: 146
Hey team! Based on this thread a couple months ago I ordered my LS positioner.

Got it all setup yesterday. It works great. One thing that bothers me is having the magnetic metal tape measure upside down so that the numbers go up when moving the unit left (away from the guide rail).

Anyone know of a magnetic ruler incra or anyone else makes that’ll fit into the slot on the LS positioner so I can get it right side up?

Matt

Offline infer

  • Posts: 4
I have been thinking of adding an Incra LS to my CMS GE for some time now. I found an interesting post about someone who has already done it but not sure if it’s a 17 or a 25!?  Can someone with more experience shed some light?

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=https://m.xuite.net/blog/yyf3576891/twblog/181976280&xid=25657,15700022,15700124,15700126,15700149,15700186,15700191,15700201,15700214,15700227,15700230&usg=ALkJrhiFYDfZ9ML6u26SdfDUEvoE0N5JUg

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 246
Hey team! Based on this thread a couple months ago I ordered my LS positioner.

Got it all setup yesterday. It works great. One thing that bothers me is having the magnetic metal tape measure upside down so that the numbers go up when moving the unit left (away from the guide rail).

Anyone know of a magnetic ruler incra or anyone else makes that’ll fit into the slot on the LS positioner so I can get it right side up?

Matt

What were your reasons for adapting the Incra to your MFT setup? Pics?

Offline mattbyington

  • Posts: 146
@DynaGlide all the reasons in this thread :).

The main one is to cut narrow stock.

Matt