mavrick1903
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Location: South Central Wisconsin, USA Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 105
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« on: March 03, 2010, 10:41 PM » |
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English would be nice, but Metric would be fine too. Looking for suggested width/depth and is 3/4" or 1/2" ply best? Not sure, but thinking I might need to keep them under 44" to work in my shop, but have not decided on that one yet.
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RL
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Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
Posts: 2115
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« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2010, 12:00 AM » |
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If you like I could send you my sketchup design by email. I posted photos of the recently completed sysport in the members project section.
Richard.
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I like green.
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Daviddubya
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Location: Cave Creek, AZ, USA Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 703
Arizona, USA
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« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2010, 01:39 AM » |
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My shop-made Sysport is 19-1/2" wide and 16" deep. The height depends on the mix of Systainer sizes you want to accomodate. I used 3/4" melamine for the carcass and 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawers.
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« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 01:40 AM by Daviddubya »
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David W. Falkenstein
in Cave Creek, AZ, USA
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Jesse Cloud
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Location: Placitas, NM Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1451
Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
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« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2010, 11:04 AM » |
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Its a good idea to make them a little extra deep. That way you can store consumables, accessories, etc behind the systainer. Another good idea is to plan an extra drawer or two for those odds and ends that get used by multiple tools (router bits, toolies, clamps, etc.)
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RL
Online
Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
Posts: 2115
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« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2010, 12:33 PM » |
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The other reason to make them deep is to allow the systainer lids to open and stay open. You can see from my photo that when the lid is open it adds an inch or so of depth to the systainer. Richard.  |
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I like green.
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sroxberg
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2007
Posts: 102
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« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2010, 01:45 PM » |
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I actually created a spreadsheet that calculates the required height of the side pieces for you.
First you enter the quantity and model of Systainer you plan to store. I had enough to fill one cabinet sixty inches high so it's a custom fit. If you only had a few and wanted to plan for future storage you could just enter additional counts for the future systainers.
You then enter the thickness of your material, in my case it was 3/4" melamine and how many cross members you are planning. By cross members I mean the top, bottom, and any other supporting cross member. Mine had two sheets stacked on the bottom and one on top for a quantity of three. I stacked two on the bottom to add weight and to attach the castors.
You then enter a bottom gap number which represent the distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the drawer bottom for that first drawer, mine was 1"
You then enter the lost space beteen the top of any given systainer and the top side of the next self bottom. I assembed my sysport from the bottom up using the actual sysports as supports and drawer guide installation support, I'll explain this process in more detail if anyone wants but you basically install the bottom drawer and place the systainer in the drawer. You then place a piece of plywood cut to fill the sysport on top of the systainer and screw the next set of slides to the sides flush with the top of the plywood. in my case I used 3/4 play. The mating slide portion for the next drawer was screwed to the side of the drawer and spaced up from the bottom by another piece of 3/4 plywood. All drawer runners are then level and you work your way up.
The spacing gap is the distance between the top of a systainer and the bottom of the drawer above. It is a calculation based on the spacers you use and how you build your drawers.
Here is an example:
I mounted drawer one in the sysport and for this to work the inside floor of the bottom drawer must be the same height as bottom gap measurement that you entered.
Example
After the first drawer is mounted I placed a 3/4 piece of melatine on top of the systainer. So my spacing gap is now +.75. And I mounted my slides to the cabinet sides sides.
Next I mounted my slide portion to the actual drawer by placing the drawer on a flat surface and using a spacer to raise the drawer slide up from the bottom by 3/4 of an inch. Remember that the slide portion on the drawer is not as tall and fits within the slide portion mounted to the cabinet side. The difference between these is 1/4" so the drawer actually hangs below the mount on the cabinet side creating a perfect 1/4" spacing from the top of the systainer to the bottom of the exposed drawer side.
To this 1/4" you need to add the height that is gained by your drawer construction method. I cut a 1/4" groove and placed it 1/4" up the side of the drawer adding 1/2" to my spacing gap. This creates a height increase of 3/4" or .75, I used .875 as my gap entry allowing myself margin for error but it would be required and I probably won't again.
After you have entered all these numbers the spreadsheet will tell you exactly how tall to cut your sides for a custom fit, in my case 58.625 inches.
This could easily work with mm as well. it all depends on what you enter, inches gets you inches, mm gets you mm.
I hope all this makes sense and I can post some pictures if anyone wants/needs them. or wants a version of the spreadsheet.
The next version of the spreadsheet will be setup to work with the 32mm concept.
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kkeus
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Location: NETHERLANDS (NL) Member Since: Jun 2007
Posts: 8
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« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2010, 08:42 AM » |
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I'd love to see some pictures and surely am interested in the spreadsheet. Although a version using the 32mm system would be even better!
regards,
Kkeus
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Jcb84
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Location: France Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
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« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2010, 11:09 AM » |
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I'd love to see some pictures and surely am interested in the spreadsheet. Although a version using the 32mm system would be even better!
regards,
Kkeus
it interests me too! TIA. Jc |
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GPowers
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Location: West Coast, USA Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1665
Metric convert
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« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2010, 07:22 PM » |
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Here is a link (tried to insert a Picasa slide show but could not get it too work) of a bunch of DIY Sysport I have collected over the last several months. I have been thinking about building a DIY Systport, as I would rather spend the $575 on more tools, like a Rotex RO150 or a new Carvex! photo gallery of DIY Sysports |
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« Last Edit: April 12, 2010, 07:28 PM by GPowers »
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Greg Powers
Size:XL
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vkumar
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Location: Sunnyvale, California Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 221
Sunnyvale (near San Jose) California
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« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2010, 09:40 PM » |
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I'd love to see some pictures and surely am interested in the spreadsheet. Although a version using the 32mm system would be even better!
regards,
Kkeus
I too would like this spreadsheet. Vijay |
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mvega
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: May 2007
Posts: 5
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« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2011, 03:48 AM » |
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I actually created a spreadsheet that calculates the required height of the side pieces for you.
First you enter the quantity and model of Systainer you plan to store. I had enough to fill one cabinet sixty inches high so it's a custom fit. If you only had a few and wanted to plan for future storage you could just enter additional counts for the future systainers.
You then enter the thickness of your material, in my case it was 3/4" melamine and how many cross members you are planning. By cross members I mean the top, bottom, and any other supporting cross member. Mine had two sheets stacked on the bottom and one on top for a quantity of three. I stacked two on the bottom to add weight and to attach the castors.
You then enter a bottom gap number which represent the distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the drawer bottom for that first drawer, mine was 1"
You then enter the lost space beteen the top of any given systainer and the top side of the next self bottom. I assembed my sysport from the bottom up using the actual sysports as supports and drawer guide installation support, I'll explain this process in more detail if anyone wants but you basically install the bottom drawer and place the systainer in the drawer. You then place a piece of plywood cut to fill the sysport on top of the systainer and screw the next set of slides to the sides flush with the top of the plywood. in my case I used 3/4 play. The mating slide portion for the next drawer was screwed to the side of the drawer and spaced up from the bottom by another piece of 3/4 plywood. All drawer runners are then level and you work your way up.
The spacing gap is the distance between the top of a systainer and the bottom of the drawer above. It is a calculation based on the spacers you use and how you build your drawers.
Here is an example:
I mounted drawer one in the sysport and for this to work the inside floor of the bottom drawer must be the same height as bottom gap measurement that you entered.
Example
After the first drawer is mounted I placed a 3/4 piece of melatine on top of the systainer. So my spacing gap is now +.75. And I mounted my slides to the cabinet sides sides.
Next I mounted my slide portion to the actual drawer by placing the drawer on a flat surface and using a spacer to raise the drawer slide up from the bottom by 3/4 of an inch. Remember that the slide portion on the drawer is not as tall and fits within the slide portion mounted to the cabinet side. The difference between these is 1/4" so the drawer actually hangs below the mount on the cabinet side creating a perfect 1/4" spacing from the top of the systainer to the bottom of the exposed drawer side.
To this 1/4" you need to add the height that is gained by your drawer construction method. I cut a 1/4" groove and placed it 1/4" up the side of the drawer adding 1/2" to my spacing gap. This creates a height increase of 3/4" or .75, I used .875 as my gap entry allowing myself margin for error but it would be required and I probably won't again.
After you have entered all these numbers the spreadsheet will tell you exactly how tall to cut your sides for a custom fit, in my case 58.625 inches.
This could easily work with mm as well. it all depends on what you enter, inches gets you inches, mm gets you mm.
I hope all this makes sense and I can post some pictures if anyone wants/needs them. or wants a version of the spreadsheet.
The next version of the spreadsheet will be setup to work with the 32mm concept.
I too would be interested in the spreadsheet an any other prints you may have. Thanks |
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mvega
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: May 2007
Posts: 5
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« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2011, 03:55 AM » |
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Sorry for my previous post. I'm finally starting to figure out how to respond to posts. I would appreciate any Sketchup drawings and plans to build my own sysports. I am currently just stacking my systainers on 4 wheeled moving dollies. It works but would like to build a couple of sysports.
Thanks
Mike
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mishle
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Location: Austin,TX Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 122
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« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2011, 09:29 AM » |
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Sorry for my previous post. I'm finally starting to figure out how to respond to posts. I would appreciate any Sketchup drawings and plans to build my own sysports. I am currently just stacking my systainers on 4 wheeled moving dollies. It works but would like to build a couple of sysports.
Thanks
Mike
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bruegf
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Location: Michigan Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 729
Michigan
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2011, 11:03 AM » |
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Fred
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Jim Kirkpatrick
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Location: Central Massachusetts Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 637
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« Reply #14 on: April 21, 2011, 07:23 AM » |
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I built mine like I build cabinets....in reverse. It's an old trick to manage space in the shop. Build the trays to fit the systainers then build the cabinets to fit the trays.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
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