I have read some threads about the Festool OF1400 router being less than stable when used on the guide rails. As many know, the OF1400 employs an outrigger to make the router level when used on the rails. This leveling outrigger is a major contributor to the complaints about instability.

I came up with a really simple idea to solve the problem. See the attached photos. I made a secondary base plate that attaches to the bottom of the OF1400 when used on the rails. I made the base plate from a piece of 1/8" hardboard with Formica laminated to both sides. The resulting thickness is .20", just right to level the router on the rails.

The first photo is the secondary base plate I made. The second photo shows the secondary base plate mounted onto the router using two threaded holes that already exist in the router base. The countersunk bolts were purchased at Ace. The third photo shows the router on the rail with the secondary base plate installed.

Some folks have leveled the OF1400 by allowing a portion of the base to ride on the rail.  I have not tried this method, but I sure like the stability of having the entire router base riding on the material surface.

I saw your post on that other site, but couldn't view the pictures. I didn't get any help from the moderator there, either. Thanks for posting it here.

Charles

I'm a bit perplexed by this thread. I've never had any problems with instability. Bit I run the OF1400 right on the rail, set so that the bit cuts to a whisker off the rubber strip. The outrigger works perfectly then - no instability in the router, a smooth run up the rail's friction strip. Is there any reason to do it any other way?

I notice that you have the outrigger guide block adjuster running inboard, on the rail. I have it sitting outboard, off the rail, leaving plenty of room for the router.

(Later: I see that Rick Christopherson's OF1400 manual recommends this. But I run one block on the outside rib, not the main rib, and put the adjuster offside the rail. The guide block fits perfectly between the ribs - no slop. It certainly works for me.)

Matt

In my experience you can place the OF1400 Guide Stop in either orientation on the rail - to the right (as shown in my photo, above) or with the left half off the rail to the left.  I simply prefer to have the entire base of the router on the work piece, and therefore like to use the supplemental base method of achieving stability.  Some folks use the LAF-OF 1400 base (part 492574).  There is more than one way to get to the same end point.

Sorry, but I have no way to identify the screws (bolts?) that fit into the OF1400 base.  I took my router to Ace Hardware and went through their metric collection and found what I needed.  The receipt is long gone.  Those that I bought have a countersink head.

For those just reading the handy info in this thread and wanting to avoid taking their router to Ace Hardware...the screw size is M6-1.00 (6 mm diameter, 1 mm pitch).  I used flathead screws approximately ~5/8" in length (15, 16, or 17mm -- I don't recall exact package specification).

I experienced the "tipping" problem when using the router/guide rail to joint a glue-ready edge on an 11 ft walnut panel (size made it difficult to get good results with either jointer or tablesaw)  I tried the auxiliary base (p/n 492574) but the router was still a bit unsteady in this application.  I used a 9"x12", 3/16" thick acrylic base from an older GCSS -- this gave more stability and the necessary thickness to level the router

Garry - You could certainly use the guide rail, or any other straight edge, as an edge guide for the router.  However, I find using the router attached to the rail a better method of making accurate straight line cuts.  The router has marks on the base that define the center of the bit.  Using those centerline marks, I line the router up with the center of the cut, as in a dado, and make the cut.  There is no need to calculate an offset, since I know where the center of the cut will be.

AMC, That's the way I have always done it.  I never tried it any other way. but will look into Dave's method when i get a chance.  As he says, there are several ways.  That was one of the first things I learned when starting ut in the building trades..

Tinker

Maybe I'm a little sensitive right about now, having just spent the GNP of an emerging nation on green tools, but I don't see why we, the customers should HAVE to solve a problem as obvious as this. I thought we were spending what we spent on these tools to avoid such things.

Festool sells a secondary base plate just like the one Daviddubya made.. It snaps in the existing base, so you can just buy that one if they still carry it.


nickao

Seth I will have to dig it out. I am re-working the shop and everything is in about 100 boxes and I am slowly putting back everything back in its place one piece at a time.

 I do know I have it, but my brother is saying he is not positive it was made by Festool, I thought it was. It snaps into  the existing base and just adds thickness. As soon as I come across it I will post it. Its not in the router systainer, of course that would be to easy.

nickao

I have one of the Festool base plates.  It is not quite as thick as the one I made, and the router does not sit perfectly flat on the work surface with the Festool base.  You could make up the difference with a shim between the router base and the secondary base.

Yes guys, I believe the one on the top is what I have. Sounds like someone is due some residuals for the idea!

nickao

A bit of a faff but cant you run the inside on the guide you are following and the outside on a second guide running parrallel to the first?

Piers

Hi,

   Oh, no, no.  That would be far too simple. Guess I will try that next time   Thanks.



Seth