Author Topic: Router planing sled  (Read 73100 times)

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Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 782
Router planing sled
« on: December 23, 2014, 05:22 PM »
I though I'd share my upgrade to my router planning apparatus in case anyone was interested.

I work with slabs a lot and use a regular router sled set up to flatten and surface the slabs before sanding. I had been using the regular made from plywood u channel with a slot in the bottom to move the router across the slab. What prompted my upgrade was finding what I think is a really nice bit for the process. I have used regular straight bits in larger diameters, bottom cleaning dado bits and bowl bits but kept getting some tear out. This new bit doesn't have the amount of tear out I have been experiencing.

Here's the bit:

http://www.amanatool.com/products/router-bits/solid-surface-router-bits/counter-top-trim-router-bits/57136-carbide-tipped-countertop-countertop-trim-6-wing-solid-surface-2-1-16-dia-x-1-4-x-1-2-inch-shank.html

It's from Amana and designed to rout shallow trays in solid surface material, probably drain boards and soap dishes etc. It leaves a smooth almost polished surface on the walnut I've tried it on. It's not cheap at about $80 and you need to make shallow passes, but it works great.

So I thought I'd upgrade the actual sled the router ran on. The plan was to use 80/20 extrusions and have a platform run on wheel brackets and more extrusions. It was going to be nice. Richard from Ripdogs was kind enough to let me bounce some ideas off him and point me to some span and deflection calcs. Everything was perfect until I started pricing what I needed, even with prices from the 80/20 ebay store, I figured I'd still have $300-350 in the thing. [eek] and that's the price of another Festool.

So it was fall back and punt and see what I had laying around the shop. The photos show what I came up with and I only had to buy few extra bolts. The runner are 2 inch angle iron left over from another project the platform and slide were made from some oak I'd recued from a dumpster a few years about and some UHMW plastic I had laying around. I polished up the angle iron and threw some paste wax on it and it slides smoothly.

 



Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline waho6o9

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    • Garage Door Handyman.com
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2014, 06:00 PM »
That's one serious flattening system, good job!

Offline Brent Taylor

  • Posts: 471
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2014, 07:49 PM »
Nice jig.

Offline duburban

  • Posts: 920
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2014, 10:26 PM »
Love them legs~!
helper: i used a festool "circular saw" to do something simple and it made it really hard

me: exactly, it makes simple cuts complicated and complicated cuts simple

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2014, 07:34 AM »
I went a lower tech route with the router sliding directly between the channels.  It works amazingly well. Use it for planing and cutting slots.
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline ear3

  • Posts: 3574
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2014, 08:42 AM »
Brilliant integration with MFT!  I have a block of redwood that I wanted to plane down, but it would be a scary proposition feeding it through the planer -- I'm going to steal your setup, if you don't mind.

I went a lower tech route with the router sliding directly between the channels.  It works amazingly well. Use it for planing and cutting slots.

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Offline Francis_Beland

  • Posts: 22
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2014, 10:01 AM »
How the blocks are secured to the MFT holes?

Offline sae

  • Posts: 841
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2014, 01:23 PM »
I'd wager...a big washer and a nut.

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 782
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2014, 01:37 PM »
For normal flattenning it's probably not secured to the MFT. The sled needs to be able to move. You secure the workpiece to the table. You position the sled slide the router for a pass and then slide the whole thing over to cut another pass.

If you secure the jig, you have to slide the workpiece over and that puts your fingers on the working side of a rapidly spinning router bit.

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2014, 01:47 PM »
Correct. The sled is independent and you move it around. The workpiece is clamped to the table.
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #10 on: December 24, 2014, 01:49 PM »
The major advantage of the sled is that it removes two degrees of movement.  Vertical and rotation. I also use it for edging wood.
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2014, 01:54 PM »
The OP's design is superior in that the router is probably more stable having it in a housing. A nice idea might be to have a housing that can be adapted to different sized routers. This sled is dedicated to my 1010. I think I will steal this idea from the OP and make a more flexible sled.
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline RL

  • Posts: 3038
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #12 on: December 24, 2014, 02:04 PM »
Here's my even more basic router sled. It is sized for my OF1400. It is a 5/8" piece of plywood stiffened by two thick birch sides. The bottom is planed dead flat.

I can either screw my OF1400 to the sled and move the whole assembly freehand, or clamp/ screw the ends to blocks and move the router along the sled.

I built it for a recent project where I had to rout out a large centre section about 3/8" deep to fit a chess board in. By screwing the router to the sled I was able to move the sled around the perimeter of the table and remove the waste in the centre. In this way the sled acts like a huge base able to span a valley than a typical sled where the router moves along the groove, and you only have to clamp the workpiece itself.


Offline ScotF

  • Posts: 2458
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #13 on: December 24, 2014, 07:02 PM »
Awesome, awesome thread! Some great ideas. There is also a thread on FOG with someone using mfs profiles for the rails and a sled. I think Festool also has a sled for its mfs. Love the design ideas here and can see this really aiding surface prep of wide stock or difficult grain. Bookmarked the link for that router bit too. That looks like a great bit for this application.

Offline Francis_Beland

  • Posts: 22
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #14 on: December 24, 2014, 07:14 PM »

Correct. The sled is independent and you move it around. The workpiece is clamped to the table.

That's I was thinking but at first look, I did not see the clamp. Since I don't have a jointer, I want a way to flatten one side of the board before going to the planner. I'm definitely stealing that idea. Thank you for the reply.

Offline nbkayak

  • Posts: 1
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2015, 09:17 AM »
very cool!  thanks for sharing.  I cant really tell from the photos but the angle iron looks like hot rolled steel, probably the most common mild steel available.  If you can find cold rolled mild steel (ebay) its usually not much more expensive and will be a lot smoother initially (it will also wear to a very nice silky surface) as it does not have the heat blisters that hot roll does.  only passing on the info in case its useful, really like the design & its simplicity.

nb

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 782
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2015, 09:29 AM »
Yup it's A36 hot rolled. I had it left over from another project. The goal was to try not to spend much.

My steel supplier doesn't stock cold rolled and I have to order a full stick for him to get it in.

Thanks. Ron

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2015, 02:34 PM »
I went a lower tech route with the router sliding directly between the channels.  It works amazingly well. Use it for planing and cutting slots.


Thread resurrection thanks to @rvieceli
 
@Mavrik

Oh hello! I've got some angle iron knocking about and will replace my ridiculous (temporary for over a year) solution nicely. How are you stopping it ripping your router's base to pieces? Some kind of tape?
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 782
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #18 on: October 12, 2015, 07:41 AM »
@Wuffles

you can get some UHMW tape to stick to the rails. On mine I set the router on a piece of high density polyethylene (HDPE) and then polished and waxed the rail surface.

the tape is pricy. You could grab one of those cheap thin poly cutting boards from a shop and either stick it to the router base or drill and counter sink some screw holes to keep it on.

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #19 on: October 12, 2015, 08:23 AM »
I sanded the iron flat and waxed it.
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #20 on: October 12, 2015, 08:32 AM »
@Wuffles

you can get some UHMW tape to stick to the rails. On mine I set the router on a piece of high density polyethylene (HDPE) and then polished and waxed the rail surface.

the tape is pricy. You could grab one of those cheap thin poly cutting boards from a shop and either stick it to the router base or drill and counter sink some screw holes to keep it on.

I've got some offcuts of the UHDMW stuff I could use, but was trying to gain a little more length from the router bit. The sled I use not is 18mm ply, so I've lost 18mm before I've even started.

I'll take a squizz on eBay and see what some slippy tape will set me back - will probably put it on the steel rather than the router so I can use a few different routers on it.


I sanded the iron flat and waxed it.

Or I could try that.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Tayler_mann

  • Posts: 413
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #21 on: October 12, 2015, 09:36 AM »
I see how this could work for smaller pieces but how is it for let's say a 600mm x 2000mm slab? I feel the tables inconsistencies would reflect upon the piece once you get larger. I am just curious as to how accurate his process is over a larger surface. Also, is there any reason you would do this over having someone send it through their wide belt/ larger planer other than money of course? I guess for me if I buy the wood they will do some slight thicknessing for free at the hardwood store. I look forward to be responses as this is an interesting process.

@rvieceli

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3560
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #22 on: October 12, 2015, 09:46 AM »
Here's my version of Nick Offerman's flattening sled.  I used phenolic-coated baltic birch for the sled to minimize debris obstructing the travel of the router.  Mine is built to accommodate the OF 2200, but it will also work with the OF 1400 just as well.  The main beams and glide rails are the straightest Douglas fir I could find.  The main beams are each made from three pieces of 2x4 stock, glued and screwed together.  Since these photos were taken, I've added a bunch of Kreg pocket hole plugs in black inside the sled to make cleaning easier.
« Last Edit: October 12, 2015, 09:49 AM by Sparktrician »
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #23 on: October 12, 2015, 09:46 AM »
Ironically this kind of approach is often taken because the piece is too big to go through a planer or sander.
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #24 on: October 12, 2015, 10:07 AM »
I need to upgrade to something a little less doory.

Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3560
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #25 on: October 12, 2015, 10:11 AM »
Ironically this kind of approach is often taken because the piece is too big to go through a planer or sander.


It's also a good approach to removing warping and twisting from a slab which isn't practical in a planer without the use of some kind of sled.
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 782
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #26 on: October 12, 2015, 10:44 AM »
Nice set up Willy.

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3560
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #27 on: October 12, 2015, 10:52 AM »
Nice set up Willy.


Thank you!   [smile]
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 782
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #28 on: October 12, 2015, 11:01 AM »
@Tayler_mann

My current set up can do slabs that are about 750 mm X 2400. I could reconfigure my sled and get about another 90mm wide.

The work surface is flat. the key is that the side rail/runners are straight and true. The top surface of the rail has to be the same distance away from the work surface to get a flat surface on the piece. I don't have access to a large stationary sander.

My process is to find the flattest side of the slab and lay that side on the table. If it twists, then it needs to be shimmed so that the piece doesn't rock on the table. then it needs to be secured so it doesn't move when being planed. Mostly I'll screw wooden stops to the table so it doesn't move around.

Then have at it with the router on the sled. I will usually take lighter passes which makes for more work but I think the results are better.

Once you are finished, you now have one surface that is flat. If the slab is narrower than my planer (about 12 inches) I might just run it through the planer. Otherwise it gets flipped over so the flat side is on the table, secured so it doesn't slide and then repeat the router process.

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3560
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #29 on: October 12, 2015, 11:09 AM »
@Tayler_mann
My process is to find the flattest side of the slab and lay that side on the table. If it twists, then it needs to be shimmed so that the piece doesn't rock on the table. then it needs to be secured so it doesn't move when being planed. Mostly I'll screw wooden stops to the table so it doesn't move around.


I sometimes hot-glue shims to the main beams, then hot-glue stops to keep things from shifting.  No screw holes when I'm done, and the hot glue lifts right off.  I also line up the slab for the first side cut to minimize the amount of material that needs to be removed overall.  The bottom line is that I get a straight and flat slab when I'm done. 
« Last Edit: October 12, 2015, 11:11 AM by Sparktrician »
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 4579
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #30 on: October 12, 2015, 11:13 AM »
Here's my version of Nick Offerman's flattening sled.  I used phenolic-coated baltic birch for the sled to minimize debris obstructing the travel of the router.  Mine is built to accommodate the OF 2200, but it will also work with the OF 1400 just as well.  The main beams and glide rails are the straightest Douglas fir I could find.  The main beams are each made from three pieces of 2x4 stock, glued and screwed together. 

I like it...I especially like the use of phenolic for the base, the router must just glide over the phenolic surface.

Are there any hold downs for the router sled on the side rails, or is the weight of the router and sled enough to keep it in-place on the side rails?

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3560
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #31 on: October 12, 2015, 11:19 AM »
Here's my version of Nick Offerman's flattening sled.  I used phenolic-coated baltic birch for the sled to minimize debris obstructing the travel of the router.  Mine is built to accommodate the OF 2200, but it will also work with the OF 1400 just as well.  The main beams and glide rails are the straightest Douglas fir I could find.  The main beams are each made from three pieces of 2x4 stock, glued and screwed together. 

I like it...I especially like the use of phenolic for the base, the router must just glide over the phenolic surface.

Are there any hold downs for the router sled on the side rails, or is the weight of the router and sled enough to keep it in-place on the side rails?

Thanks.  That 18# OF 2200 glides inside the slide like it was on wet ice.  The slide weighs another 10# or so, and I've found no need to hold it down.  It has to slide on the glide rails, so that pretty much precludes clamping. 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #32 on: October 12, 2015, 11:19 AM »
It's the magic warp-or-twist cure.
I take very little with each pass.
Use my most powerful router.
And use the lowest speed setting .

Not really sure why i use the slowest speed.
Makes it quieter, works fine and seems less violent and more controlled.
:)
TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3560
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #33 on: October 12, 2015, 11:23 AM »
It's the magic warp-or-twist cure.
I take very little with each pass.
Use my most powerful router.
And use the lowest speed setting .

Not really sure why i use the slowest speed.
Makes it quieter, works fine and seems less violent and more controlled.
:)

I use pretty much the same process.  I use a 1-3/4" Amana 45453 bit which, ironically, specifies a max shaft speed of 27,500 RPM.  Given the spinning mass involved, I won't take it over 16,000 RPM for safety reasons. 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 4579
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #34 on: October 12, 2015, 11:25 AM »

Then have at it with the router on the sled. I will usually take lighter passes which makes for more work but I think the results are better.

Once you are finished, you now have one surface that is flat. If the slab is narrower than my planer (about 12 inches) I might just run it through the planer. Otherwise it gets flipped over so the flat side is on the table, secured so it doesn't slide and then repeat the router process.

@rvieceli  or anyone else...
I've milled a number of PTFE (Teflon) flats for proper thickness and realized early on that if I removed 1/8" off of one side of the PTFE, I'd also need to remove 1/8" off of the other side or the thing would "potato chip" on me.

Is this also the case when flattening wood slabs?
« Last Edit: October 12, 2015, 11:28 AM by Cheese »

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #35 on: October 12, 2015, 11:37 AM »

Then have at it with the router on the sled. I will usually take lighter passes which makes for more work but I think the results are better.

Once you are finished, you now have one surface that is flat. If the slab is narrower than my planer (about 12 inches) I might just run it through the planer. Otherwise it gets flipped over so the flat side is on the table, secured so it doesn't slide and then repeat the router process.

@rvieceli  or anyone else...
I've milled a number of PTFE (Teflon) flats for proper thickness and realized early on that if I removed 1/8" off of one side of the PTFE, I'd also need to remove 1/8" off of the other side or the thing would "potato chip" on me.

Is this also the case when flattening wood slabs?

Interesting what other people say about this, but from my experience I am only taking off enough to get both sides flat and it's not happened to me. Mine are well seasoned though.

Nothing calculated about what I'm removing from each side if you catch my drift.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #36 on: October 12, 2015, 04:51 PM »
Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 4579
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #37 on: October 12, 2015, 10:53 PM »
Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Yea @Holmz
I get that... my question really is, PTFE is a compression molded product and because there are internal stresses in molded products (whether injection molded, rotational molded or compression molded) do the internal stresses inherent in molded products equate to the same stresses inherent in natural materials such as wood? I think there may be a correlation between them. Not because they are related materials, but maybe because there is a "grain pattern" in all of the materials mentioned,

So, as a newbee to the woodworking field, my question still stands...is it necessary to remove the same amount of material from each side of the slab to retain a stable and flat slab or can one remove 1/4" from one side and 1/16" from the other side and achieve equilibrium?

Ya and I do like the Pringles anecdote...kind of reminds me of some of the humour of @Wuffles

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #38 on: October 13, 2015, 02:29 AM »
Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Yea @Holmz
I get that... my question really is, PTFE is a compression molded product and because there are internal stresses in molded products (whether injection molded, rotational molded or compression molded) do the internal stresses inherent in molded products equate to the same stresses inherent in natural materials such as wood? I think there may be a correlation between them. Not because they are related materials, but maybe because there is a "grain pattern" in all of the materials mentioned,

So, as a newbee to the woodworking field, my question still stands...is it necessary to remove the same amount of material from each side of the slab to retain a stable and flat slab or can one remove 1/4" from one side and 1/16" from the other side and achieve equilibrium?

Ya and I do like the Pringles anecdote...kind of reminds me of some of the humour of @Wuffles

Also from experience, now I come to think of it, you're kind of dealing with the fall-out of something that has already twisted, cupped, pringled. That's the point of the sled - to me anyway. I'm normally taking off the smashed edges of a pringle from the bottom of the tube to make it nicer - in wood terms.

For the record, I do not buy Pringles. I buy Aldi's own brand - similar packaging, well over half the price and the BBQ flavour are to die for, well they are if you steal them from my cupboard. In wood terms, they are probably Bosch.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #39 on: October 13, 2015, 07:42 AM »
Whether it Pringles (TM) up or down, and how much is determined by the residual stress in the wood. And whether that stress is tension or compression.

Yea @Holmz
I get that... my question really is, PTFE is a compression molded product and because there are internal stresses in molded products (whether injection molded, rotational molded or compression molded) do the internal stresses inherent in molded products equate to the same stresses inherent in natural materials such as wood? I think there may be a correlation between them. Not because they are related materials, but maybe because there is a "grain pattern" in all of the materials mentioned,

So, as a newbee to the woodworking field, my question still stands...is it necessary to remove the same amount of material from each side of the slab to retain a stable and flat slab or can one remove 1/4" from one side and 1/16" from the other side and achieve equilibrium?

Ya and I do like the Pringles anecdote...kind of reminds me of some of the humour of @Wuffles

Extrusion are generally under compression.
I do not know of a pull-trusion, but I think I have heard the word and they would likely be under tension.
Glass and metal can be annealed and stress relieved.

Wood can be either, and wood can also be both in the same piece in different places.

I doubt that the surface of the wood has different stress than the core, so I doubt it needs to be even.
and the movement from moisture is probably a different mechanism.
But "I dunno" ???


Offline Chris99

  • Posts: 29
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #40 on: October 16, 2015, 06:53 PM »
Here's my sled. A little rudimentary but works well - I wish I saw this thread before making it :)


Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #41 on: November 09, 2015, 05:15 PM »
Right, I'm back. Nothing better to do tonight than to try and find some UHMW tape from somewhere. Seems there's a shortage of people in the UK selling it - as far as I can tell.

eBay shows a bloke in Poland selling it in USD and then the rest of the Free World over the pond wanting to sell it cheap but with $50 delivery.

Anyone have any ideas where to get it in the UK? I'm looking at you @Ed Bray
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Ed Bray

  • Posts: 411
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #42 on: November 09, 2015, 05:27 PM »
I got my UHMWPE tape from the chap in Poland, it's very expensive in the UK.

I bought my sheet stuff from here: http://www.uhmwpesheet.co.uk/

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #43 on: November 09, 2015, 05:36 PM »
Yep, I took your advice and got my sheets from there before. I'll do the same as you on the Polish fella.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Offline Mavrik

  • Posts: 240
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #44 on: May 29, 2016, 02:13 PM »
I want to upgrade my sled to run on linear bearings on metal rods.

But now the suppliers want to know what size rods & bearings.

And I have no idea.
10mm? 16mm? 20mm?

I'm wanting to use my big router which is 6.1 kg and have a span of the short side of my MFT table.

What size rods & bearings do I go for?

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TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75

Offline SoulStealer52

  • Posts: 1
Re: Router planing sled
« Reply #45 on: April 08, 2018, 06:50 PM »
Would you shares your drawings with measurements of this sled, I would like to make me one.