It's great to have the new Kapex Aluminum wing, but due to the design, cuts smaller than 280 mm (that's where the extension starts / without crown molding attachment) is still not possible.

I have an additional 8 mm MDF fence installed which will still let me use the Kapex clamp and of course I usually take clamps and other stuff to get some kind of stop, but having a simple but accurate and repetitive solution for the smaller than 28 mm (11") cuts and at the same time enable me to still use the Kapex clamp would really make the process easier.

I've seen several jigs and enhancements for the Kapex, but none was dealing with the smaller cuts, especially with keeping the Kapex clamp function, which I really like. An idea or even photo of your set up would be greatly appreciated.

Richard:

thanks for the hint! The new extension is much better and fixed properly on the Kapex V-Kerf. Unfortunately my workshop is rather small and therefore it's not possible to have the 1500 mm extension on the Kapex all the time. I've now ordered different Incra tracks (TTRACK+ and TRACKSYS) and the Incra Shop Stop and will probably build a smaller extension. I'll post photos if I get the parts and find the time, probably next week.

Poppawoody: Sounds very interesting I would love to see some pictures!

These are the pic's and a brief description of my post dated 20May2010

In this picture you see the backs of the two Auxiliary Fences with the reinforcing ribs removed. This was done to be able to attach 1/2" Paraply to the back of these Fences.  
 [
This shows a little closer look at what I described above
 
This pic shows the Paraply cut, routed and screwed into place. If you look close you can see where some of the material from the paraply was removed with a router.  I set my router at a depth of .125 and removed material from the area where the paraply will be attached to the back of the Auxiliary Fences.  I determined the depth of the router by using a micrometer to measure the thickness of the aluminum once the ribs were removed.  I drilled two holes in each aluminum fence and counter sunk the holes to accept a 6 X 5/8" Screw (the type of screw commonly used to attach Euro Hinges) to attach the Paraply to the fences. In removing that material, when you make the attachment, the area not routed is flush with the front of the aluminum fences.
 
This pic was taken from the back, if you notice how the 45 degree angles were cut, you will see that for 90 degree cuts you can bring the two fences as close to the blade as you like. It will save you a little time at this point to turn on the Lazar. You can bring the fences right up to the blade. When you make a short cut off of material in the future, you won't have to look all over your shop for the million dollar piece.  

You should be able to see how this will also be a benefit when you make angled cuts. Once again after determining your angle, bring the fences up close to the blade, make your cut, and it will be waiting for you on the table insert. Here again, you won't be going on a scouting mission looking for the million dollar cut.

 

Poppawoody,

Poppawoody,

I'm not sure I understand the extra effort required to apply the ply to the back of the fence.  Would it not be easier (and not require major alterations to the fence) to apply an additional plate to the cutting-side surface of the fence? 

I've installed 1/4" Baltic birch with a couple of small bolts and nuts on the face of the fence, then trimmed as you described.  Seems to work great.

Please let me know what I'm missing.

Dan

Dan,

Have you installed on the face of the fence or the back of the fence?

Peter

I'm guessing he wants to keep the face of the kapex fence in line with the face of his auxiliary fences.  This may also be necessary for the stop systems used on the auxiliary fences.  Also when adding to auxiliary fences to the face it reduces the available crosscut by the thickness of the auxiliary fence.   Just my guess here.

Dan, Thanks for posting this question.  This is what I was thinking and wanted to ask too.

Thanks to all for your responces to my post.

Job, I think you have the idea.  Wayne, it sounds like an educated guess, and right on.  I will go from top to bottom to answer questions and explain some of the reasoning that went into my concept.

Dan,
With regards to the extra effort.  I am retired, so time is not an issue.  I also have the expertice of a friend who is also retired and is a Machinist by trade.  So I requested his effort on the machining end of this project.  I guess if you have access to outside expertise and time, why not take advantage of it.  

Peter, Dan, and Corwin,
Your question about front or back.  I think if you look again at the last picture, which was taken from the back of the Kapex, you will see that it is mounted to the back side of the Auxiliary Fences.  If you enlarge the 2nd. photo from the bottom.  You will see where the material was removed from the Paraply with the router and than attached to the back of the fences, with the two small screws that you see countersunk into the face of the Auxiliary Fences.

My reasoning for attaching the Paraply to the back of the Fences, was to keep everything flush with the front of the Auxiliary Fences.  I didn't want to compromise any of the features that Festool built into the Kapex.  I don't know that it would be an issue, but I also didn't want to interfere with the Clamping System on either side.

I also have a seven foot Saw Helper attached to the left of the Kapex and a five footer to the right.  I felt that if I mounted any material to the front of the fences, I would not be able to move the fences easily to the left or right depending on the cut.  That was the motivation for doing this in the 1st. place, so that I could be able to move the fences easily up to the saw blade from either side, as I explained in the post.  I was tired of cutting small pieces over, and over, because they were flying around the room, this had to do with the original design of the Auxiliary fences.

I hope this covers everybodies questions to this point.

Poppawoody,

Ok sorry, but I had some trouble inserting my pictures.  Here we go again.

The picture in my previous post was the east wall of my shop and shows where my Kapex is located.  As you can see, there isn't any room on the sides for long extension pieces or supports.  The table for the Performax drum sander is exactly the correct height to handle any long lumber that I have to mill to smaller work pieces. 

The next picture shows a close up of the setup I use to cut small pieces.



This next shows how I can flip the stop up out of the way to insert a longer piece.  Notice the extension track that attaches to the fence to allow a stop to be adjusted out from the aux table.

  to the fog

well thought out workshop.
nice jig, well made

I like the cam action on the hold-down for two reasons: 1) It makes it easy to loosen, remove the cut piece, slide in the next and tighten; and 2) the cam action does not hang oveer the side of the hold down and get in the way of the blade.

Try JimsWorkshop web site for some more pictures.

-Jim-

<<edited to allow link to work - P.Halle>>

Jim,
That's a nifty idea, using a latch to secure your small parts table, so it is easily removable.  A really creative solution.

David