SteveBirmingham
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Location: Port Hardy, BC Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 38
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« Reply #30 on: May 07, 2012, 10:52 PM » |
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Well I did get all the parts from the anodizer on Saturday and tried them on the 1900 rail. Three worked just fine. If your using the FS 800 two supports would work. For FS 1080 to 1900 three are required. The FS 2700 would be four and the FS3000 would be five. I haven't tried them on the FS 5000 but most likely eight would be required. It should also be noted that the guide rail must be clamped to the table, especially when there is very little board under the guide rail. Without the clamps the board being cut can flop over just as the cut is being finished. These rail supports only hold the rail up on one side and the board holds up the other side. These supports also will not stop the rail from moving unless the rail is firmly clamped down. I sliced off a 1/4" piece of red cedar using the TS75. I would post pictures but my trial software for shrinking pictures expired and after I bought it online the license key wouldn't work. Go figure. The price will be $32.50 each for the first 100. Contact me by email at slbirmhm@cablerocket.com. |
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Richard/RMW
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Location: Brigantine, New Jersey Member Since: Jul 2010
Posts: 644
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« Reply #31 on: May 20, 2012, 08:25 PM » |
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I was wondering how these are working out? Any photos available in use from someone who purchased?
Thanks,
RMW
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SteveBirmingham
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Location: Port Hardy, BC Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 38
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« Reply #32 on: May 20, 2012, 10:22 PM » |
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Hi RMW,
I have sent off a set of two to a fella in Texas and this Tuesday 6 will be going out to another person in Massachusetts. It takes a couple of weeks for the post office to deliver, especially going across that border. I also have had enquiries from England. In the next few weeks there should be some feed back.
Steve
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txrpls
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Location: San Antonio, Texas, USA Member Since: Feb 2012
Posts: 39
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« Reply #33 on: June 04, 2012, 08:31 AM » |
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I was wondering how these are working out? Any photos available in use from someone who purchased?
Received mine over a week ago, but have been out of the country. The workmanship is great. I haven't had the need to use them yet, but it appears they will work well. |
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Iwood75
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Location: North Eastern Maryland, usa Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 112
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« Reply #34 on: June 07, 2012, 09:51 PM » |
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What keeps the wood from moving when it is so narrow – like 2.25" wide – that it doesn't extend under the guide rail enough to reach the black strips? I would not trust just the weight of the saw.
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More is never enough.
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SteveBirmingham
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Location: Port Hardy, BC Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 38
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« Reply #35 on: June 08, 2012, 09:42 PM » |
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What keeps the wood from moving when it is so narrow – like 2.25" wide – that it doesn't extend under the guide rail enough to reach the black strips? I would not trust just the weight of the saw.
You are right, don't trust the weight of the saw to hold the guide rail. The guide rail must be clamped down. I have successfully cut a 1/8 thick piece off of a 2" plank with just the guide rail on the 1/8" portion of the wood and using the TS 75. Clamp the guide rail down, not hard down or the rail will deflect. See the pictures at the start of this topic or look at these photos. I had to cut some purple heart blocks down to a smaller size for an Alaska seine boat conversion. The blocks were not square as can be seen. Notice that the guide rail is clamped down with the 491594 quick clamp. The purple heart has a couple of Top Dogs on one side.  Set up  And away we go. |
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Iwood75
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Location: North Eastern Maryland, usa Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 112
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« Reply #36 on: June 08, 2012, 10:59 PM » |
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Steve, Thanks for the photos, etc. Guess I'm being dense but I still don't see what keeps your wood from moving away from the guide rail. The dogs keep it from moving "inward." What keeps it from moving out? I have 2.125" stiles and rails to rip for some cabinet doors and thought that the "keeper" would be the piece positioned under the rail and I'd discard the off cut. The opposite of your demo. Wouldn't that would give me the cleaner of the cut edges?
All this clamping and adjusting – not to mention the additional cost of accessories – seems overly complicated and time consuming when my table saw would be faster... easier... smarter. But I keep trying to find uses for my new TS55. I guess to help justify the purchase.
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More is never enough.
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SteveBirmingham
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Location: Port Hardy, BC Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 38
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« Reply #37 on: June 08, 2012, 11:30 PM » |
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Well in my case I was keeping the piece of wood that was under the guide rail. I also have had a Unisaw for years and I thought about using it but the idea of having fingers near that blade, sawdust flying all over the place, nope. A couple of years ago I had a large Corian type countertop break while we were installing it. It took me thirty hours to rebuild it upside down. I was always looking for blocking to hold the guide rail while I was doing a cut with either the 1010 or 2200 router. The front edging sticks up away from the main part of the counter and the guide rail had to be blocked up over that. With solid surface countertops joints have to be square and within about 3 to 4 thousands of an inch. It was having to do work like that that inspired me to make these guide rail supports. As I have them I am finding that they are handy and when used with clamps safer than a table saw for small pieces.
Steve
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Iwood75
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Location: North Eastern Maryland, usa Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 112
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« Reply #38 on: June 09, 2012, 09:35 AM » |
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Sequence? Do you insert the 2 rail clamps into the MFT holes first and then slide the rail onto both clamps? Then adjust the rail supports? I still don't see what prevents the small block of wood from creeping forward with the saw while cutting. In my case, I guess I could rig up some sort of stop blocks under the rail, slide my stile against it and then clamp the ends of the stile with the Festool clamping elements to prevent movement. Would I then have to loosen the rail clamps to slide the next stile/rail in? And, won't I then have to carefully reposition the guide rail again for consistency of each cut?
I'm sure that there are unusual situations where your approach is the best/most efficient solution. However, ripping many narrow pieces for stiles and rails might not be one of them. Since I really would like to put my new TS55 to work whenever advisable, I hope you can convince me why I shouldn't just set up my tablesaw for 2.125" add a few featherboards and let 'er rip. Thanks.
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More is never enough.
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SteveBirmingham
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Location: Port Hardy, BC Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 38
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« Reply #39 on: June 09, 2012, 08:03 PM » |
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Sequence? Do you insert the 2 rail clamps into the MFT holes first and then slide the rail onto both clamps? Then adjust the rail supports? I still don't see what prevents the small block of wood from creeping forward with the saw while cutting. In my case, I guess I could rig up some sort of stop blocks under the rail, slide my stile against it and then clamp the ends of the stile with the Festool clamping elements to prevent movement. Would I then have to loosen the rail clamps to slide the next stile/rail in? And, won't I then have to carefully reposition the guide rail again for consistency of each cut?
I'm sure that there are unusual situations where your approach is the best/most efficient solution. However, ripping many narrow pieces for stiles and rails might not be one of them. Since I really would like to put my new TS55 to work whenever advisable, I hope you can convince me why I shouldn't just set up my tablesaw for 2.125" add a few featherboards and let 'er rip. Thanks.
Well Iwood the situation that you are talking about needs a bit more set up. You have put your finger on the problem in that the Festool system is lacking a bit for doing what you want to do. Festool's Parallel guide sort of works for sheet goods but is awkward to use without modifications. There is a post here where one fella modified the stops so that the tool doesn't rotate off of the sheet being cut. Tomorrow I'll try and set up to cut 2.25" and if I get something that works I'll post photos. I have in the works a digital fence for the guide rail but as always the devil is in the details of how to design it for low production (300) and to keep cost down. With a fence off of the guide rail this would be a dead easy job, almost like doing it on a table saw, but without the noise, dust and possible burn marks on the wood. Well gotta go to my daughters graduation. Steve <<Edited to move response out of quote for readability - P.Halle>> |
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« Last Edit: June 09, 2012, 08:14 PM by Peter Halle »
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Iwood75
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Location: North Eastern Maryland, usa Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 112
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« Reply #40 on: June 09, 2012, 09:13 PM » |
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Cutting narrow pieces under the guide rail seems to be the TS system's achilles' heel. I appreciate that you and several other FOG members are working on concepts to rectify this condition. Steve, I'm looking forward to seeing your digital fence solution. Thanks, Joel
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More is never enough.
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