great job matt.
cant wait to see more.

how much do it cost in total for the aluminium

That is great Matt!
Perfect for  shop/home use, what do you think you had into the whole thing $ ?
I like it!

In terms of execution, I did the design using Microsoft Visio (am a corporate worker by day). The stick man type isometric picture is important to to make sure you count the right number of pieces. I could have done this in Sketch-up I guess but would need to learn how to use it, so this worked fine (I did see there is already some profile inn the 3d warehouse. The stuff I used is Bosch Rexwroth


The costings are as follows:-

Item	£	$
19.85m of Aluminium	£205	$325
Castors	£44	$70
60 core bolts	£29	$46
Ply 2 sheets 12mm WPB	£32	$52
12x 350mm drawer slides	£72	$115
Total	£382	$608

So not cheap but will last, is configurable, can still change it a bit, wont rust or warp, very easy to bolt additions on. I have found that planning it out is very important. I have a blade to cut Alu on the KAPEX but wouldn't want to do lots of it, so have worked out all the lengths first and KJN cut it. They are pretty accurate, I would say to at least 0.5mm

I agree, I don't think its too bad either, total cost in vat and delivery of all the components to make what you see in the pics (exluding runners and plywood), the drill press and a router table which I will do a progress post on soon was just over £600.

The cost of getting good quality timber to build it all wouldn't be hugely less, since the alu is 50% of the cost, runners etc soon add up which you need either way. I just prefer the rigidity and fixed nature of alu (no warping etc) for this sort of thing. Plus its light.. I could quite easily lift the complete subframe and had to to get some of the bolts in.. I would struggle with wood. Also having all the pieces of alu cut to size as part of the cost is a major time saver!!

Thanks Matt, that price here is 1 sysport, so I think you did great!

Please see below pictures, plus I have included a couple of the KAPEX fixing, its leveled using the 4 threaded bars (the KAPEX platform is suspended) and then once at the exact height, locked into place using the quick connectors)





Mock up of KAPEX platform


Actual platform

I did the iso by freehand, visio doesn't do much (other than to be able to set a line at 60/30 degrees)

pure hawtness.  If I ever have the space, I'll definitely do something like this.

No it just rests, my precise measuring paid off, it a tight fit, has to be dropped on perfectly vertical. It's quick to take off, then just bolt the legs on. Took a while to get the legs off as there is a nyloc bolt. But if you were just popping off for a quick job I wouldn't bother, could probably convert it back in 5 mins or so

Wintu   You could go do a search for 8020 on EBay and use their store to see what you need. This is a location for alot of their job left overs. I order from them often you Will lamazed at their inventory of goodies. The have T slot Alum rail in fractional and metric. They carry the 4545 and the 4590 series rails used above

Sal

Finally got around to just about finishing it. As others will know, there are a few shortcomings on the Festool CMS router module, one being to no fine adjustable way to move both faces of the fence back (just the right hand one can be recessed to use the fence planer style) plus keeping the fence parallel to the front of the module (and the sliding carriage I have) is a manual effort, so since Incra now do a metric version of their fence I have combined it into the design




Router bit storage in the 2 drawers


The Wixey digital readout was another addition.. has been great, wind the bit up to be level with the table.. press the "zero" button and you can quickly set the bit height to the nearest 100th of a mm


OF2200 mounting view


The Wixey does fractions for our imperial friends :-)


Onto the Incra.. I mounted it on pivots so it lifts clear of the table, in case I want to use a template bit and want a free surface.. or want to use the festool fence


Hinge detail


Incra LS positioner deployed, the red lever locks the fence in place one at the desired distance, it has an intermediate position for fine adjustment


Front view of the fence arrangement. I have the "Wonder" fence attached, which in addition allows you to adjust the mouth for the large bits, and move the left and right side back and forth to change their depth


To adjust the depth of the fence wings, there is a wedge system which allows very fine control


The whole fence can be moved back and forth (see the earlier pic with the big red locking lever), this knob is for fine adjusting


Festool fence can be used when the Incra has been pivoted away


I didn't find the CMS plate alignment was perfect with the surrounding CMS framework, so I used some profile below and drilled (carefully!!) through the CMS plate. These two countersunk socket screws bolt into the profile below and pull the whole assembly dead flat


Onto my CMS+ MFT sysport.. I created a cabinet below the CMS mount for my spare module to go in.. simple hinge door


The plate+tool not in use can be stored here


Side view


Drawers extend to allow access to systainers


Drill stand completed


Eagle eyes might spot the Zobo Festool drillbits in the drawer :-)



A couple of random additions... I was struggling to find a good way to put wheels on my workbench and wanted to take advantage of the stability of having the bench on the floor.. but be bale to move it. I found some jockey wheels that have a side wind mechanism (rated at 1000lbs each wheel).. so whilst not pretty, do a good job. Once wound down the castors go below the bench so they can rotate (the winding mech. has a travel of over 12")


2nd pic.. they wheels on ebay were £15 each so not much more that a good quality castor


KAPEX by night!

The Wonderfence profile if blocked off on one end and the other has a 50mm port (you can see the black 90deg bend on the left hand side for extraction) and where the two fences split to adjust for bit size, there is also an inner lining to improve extraction.

All that said, I tend to extract through the OF2200 as there is a pretty good dust shroud and get a good throughput with a 38mm hose

Yes will probably do that... should work pretty well

Fabulous job Matt!  It looks like a great addition to your shop.

Those aluminum profiles are available in the US from 80/20 and they will even cut them to length for you.
Steve

Matt,

Reading throught he thread.  Very impressive. 

I like what you have done with those profiles.  I did have one question though... Where is the 45x90 profile located in the sysport w CMS and MFT?  I see you call out 3 pieces and I dont see where they are in the drawing.  They are essentially 2 of the same profile togehter??

Thanks,

Mike

These guys should fill the bill... http://www.faztek.net/index.asp

Mattfc,

I plan to make a similar table for my MFT (1080) and am going to use your design. Before doing so, however, I have a few questions.

1) I assume that your table is sized for an MFT/3 (plus CMS) and not a 1080.....  Obviously, I'll need to measure my 1080 to see if the dimensions are the same.
2) Do you have any issues with way you mount the MFT to the adjustable levelers that protrude from the extruded aluminum? Have you thought of alternative ideas for more rigidly attaching the MFT to the extruded aluminum?
3) Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could buy the  Extruded aluminum? I bought T-slotted aluminum from an online company a number of years ago that provided an online shopping cart where you could order the aluminum (to exact size) and specify machining operations (with running costs in the shopping basket), etc. Unfortunately, I can't remember the company URL or can't find anyone with this service anymore.... 8020 and faztek seem to be manufacturers/distributors and/or don't offer the same type of service.

Thanks in advance.

They are in the middle as uprights, provides 2 slots for the drawer runners to fit back to back

Yes it's an MFT3. With regards to mounting, the uprights do protrude into the corner casting stopping lateral movement as its a very snug fit, that tight fit along with gravit holds it down fine on the levelling bolts

Check out the blue tooth drill from Bosch in the link below. It records how many screws you've driven etc. scary.

Richard

Thanks Matt!

I'll do a search to see if I can find a local based company/dealer to source the from

Cheers,

James

A few questions about your project.

I'm planning a similar type build for my shop cabinets.  I think the use of the aluminum extrusion in strategic locations will allow for the use of clamps, featherboards etc. whether it be on the face of a cabinet or topside. In comparing the t-slot in some of the products on the market, i.e. Kreg's track systems and the Incra track systems, with the track in the aluminum extrusions it appears that the accessories would be interchangeable.

My question for you is do you use your slots for different attachments?

Next question. You say that is a 45mm x 45mm profile. In the pictures that appears to be larger than 1.7" square aluminum tubing. If it is only 1.7" square, is it enough strength for the spans that you are doing or is there some reinforcements being made that aren't in the pictures?

Also, I would like to see some more pics on your drawer slides and points of attachment for them. Where did you source the slides?

Your project pictures are a great inspiration for me. Thanks for posting them in such detail.

One other note, ALUMINUM IS EXPENSIVE.

Have sent you your e-mail, sorry for the delay, forgot to check this thread

One other question. What are your thoughts on having the crown stop with base extensions included on the Kapex and allowing the space for the complete assembly to fit into your Kapex workstation? I noticed that your workstation just allows for the saw without any additional width.

Hey Matt!
This is exactly what I was looking for and the amount of detail you provide is awesome.
I am planning out my workshop for my new home and will Try to replicate something similar here.

The only thing I could not figure out is how you connected your corners. You mention that you drilled and used hex bolts.

This makes sense for 2 pieces joined at a 90 but how to attach the third piece without running into the previous bolt?

You can by 3 sided connectors for this profile but that drives up the cost!

Also, you said all of the bolts were self tapping. Does this mean that you did not need to tap anything? Even the leveling screws?

Thanks for your help, and your great design!

Coxworth,

This may help to clarify. This graphic shows the position of the hex screw itself, the access hole is drilled through the t-slot in the top extrusion, directly above the centerline of the extrusion you are attaching to. Then you can reach a hex key through the access hole to tighten the hex screw. I am not sure if I am explaining this clearly but basically the hex screw does not pass through the drilled hole, only the hex key does to tighten it.



This is one of the cheapest hardware options for connecting these extrusions and it is easy to do yourself in the shop.

RMW

You are absolutely right that using their stuff has a learning curve and it probably is not worth it for a one-off use. I think 8020 only sells through distributors (other than what you can get on eBay) and in my case there are 3 or 4 distributors who service my area. I have not tried to buy direct from them because I can cut/drill myself. What I learned is that I can buy some of their stuff on eBay and then send them a list of anything they don't offer on eBay and they will add it to the order.

There is another company selling similar stuff (less complete product line) called Faztec, I believe they will cut to length, drill etc. for one-off projects. You just send them a sketch. Still costly.

RMW

Hi.
I'm on the fence to build some work benches out of 45x45 Rexroth profiles. The 45x45 profiles has a 10 mm groove.

But I just noticed that the Festool clamps and other common wood working accessories uses 8 mm grooves. That means that the Festool clamps probably are to small for the 100 mm groove. I think they would fall out.

Matt, have you tried the clamps in the groove? Or have you fond any other clamps that fit in the 10 mm grove?

Thank you for your thorough post on this. It made me change my mind from welding the frames. The extrusions will be a heck of a lot easier to build with.

//Michael

Thanks.
Can you even get the clamp into a closed groove if you tilt it? My thought was to mill some at the start of each groove to widen it. But that might not be needed, or?

Sgryd,
45x45 Rexroth profiles with 10 mm slots will hold Festool clamps. However, they engage the very edge of the slot and it may get damaged and wear off quickly. You cannot insert the clamp in there by tilting it. Also, in Rexroth profiles T-slot edges are square (which is better), while in 80/20 they are rounded.

I include the floor.  Darn gravity prevents me from easily using the ceiling.

Peter

Peter,

Easily solved, when I ran out of horizontal spaces I started screwing seldom used jigs to the rafters... 

RMW

Pretty cool - don't like the scary $ value it gives you as you design though ... that stuff isn't cheap. I'm normally against "big box" stores, but I think this is the sort of stuff that would penetrate far better if there was significantly greater volume and lower price.

Matt,
Really like the router table.Is there any particular reason why the hinges holding the Incra fence are fixed to the small uprights and not to the horizontal extrusion.I am considering doing something similar but would like to be able to remove the fence arm from the locking system and produce a flat top.obviously the 2 uprights would stop me having a totally flat top.

Matthew