Author Topic: T-track question . . .  (Read 4532 times)

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Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
T-track question . . .
« on: March 14, 2017, 08:50 PM »
Hi there,
I've built a crosscut sled for the CMS table saw (based on Woodwork Wizard's ideas back in 2013: http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/cms-table-saw-sled/msg472461/#msg472461) and will share the amended design when it's complete.
But, I'd like to fix a strip of t-track to the rear fence to take the MFT/3-AR Adjustable Stop which I purchased to fit the CMS table fence.
Do you know if there is a brand of t-track, available in the U.K, which has the same section as the CMS fence track, or will work with the MFT/3-AR Adjustable Stop?

Having looked at all the different tracks on the net, I can't see one that will readily accept the Festool fittings - can you help?

Thanks in advance,

Jon

p.s. I've added a pic of the stop - do you know of a track that'll fit this? Thx
« Last Edit: March 15, 2017, 08:04 AM by wimblejon »

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Offline mwildt

  • Posts: 337
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2017, 08:51 AM »
Just tried to see if a Rockler t-track worked and it does not. Probably don't have it in the UK, but figured it could help someone else later. May have to look for metric based t-track. Did you check Axminster ?

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2017, 09:28 AM »
Hi there mwildt,

Thanks so much for the reply and for trying the Rockler track.
Yes I've looked at the Axminster track and it's also too big (see attached image).
I may have to bite the bullet and go with a 'universal' t-track and adopt that system.
A bit crazy when Festool do their own!

Cheers,
Jon

Offline Wooden Skye

  • Posts: 1018
  • My little girl was called home 12-28-15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2017, 10:05 AM »
I would go with Incra t track.  I have used with Festool clamps and works fine.  The other place you could try is Orange Aluminum, but not sure if they ship outside of the US.
Bryan

TS 55, (2) 1400 Guide Rails, 1900 Guide Rail, MFT/3, Domino DF 500, 2 domino systainers, ETS 150/3, RO 90, CT 26, (2) OF1400, RO 150. RTS 400, LR 32 set, PS300 jigsaw, 3 abrasive systainers, (2) sys toolbox, (2) sys mini, clamps and other accesories

Offline Woodwork Wizard

  • Posts: 396
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2017, 10:08 AM »
I don't think Festool flag stops will fit any T-track apart from the Festool fences. If you want to use a Festool flag stop you'll probably have to buy the Festool MFT/3 fence which I think is about £63.

I use a G-clamp and a block...




Offline mwildt

  • Posts: 337
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2017, 11:36 AM »
Got a request to check if the Rockler t-track would work with the Festool clamps. Unfortunately they do not. I then remembered that I actually had some Incra track that I use with the Seneca parallel cutting jig. Here the Festool clamps fit but the Festool Flag stop does not. One could modify the flag stop to work for both Rockler and Incra, like a modified nut, but it would still be too sloppy I think. See pictures.


Rockler
Festool clamps - no
Festool MFT3 flag stop - no. Too sloppy, side ways and twist. Could be modified but would still have the twist.

Incra track
Festool clamps - yes
Festool MFT3 flag stop - no. Too sloppy, side ways and twist. Could be modified but would still have the twist.


Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2017, 11:58 AM »
Thank you mwildt, Woodwork Wizard and Wooden Skye for your replies.
I like the idea of a G-clamp and block - I could even put a screwed stop on the block to provide some accurate adjustment . . .
Heck, who needs t-track anyway!   [smile]

Offline Woodwork Wizard

  • Posts: 396
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2017, 12:34 PM »
@wimblejon

I'd be very interested to see some photos of your table sled for the CMS table saw when it's all done but especially what you think of it. For small repeatable stuff I much prefer to use my DIY sled rather than the Festool sliding table/protractor/fence/stop. It feels much safer and there's no play at all in it. And the cut quality is better with the zero clearance.

Ian





Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2017, 01:21 PM »
Woodwork Wizard,

I have a 'pre-production' shot (attached) and will, if you or anyone else is interested, do a few more detailed pics.
I used oak for the two V rails, which received a good coating of slippery wax and the front and back fences (18mm birch ply) are raised about 1mm off the table. I used a set square both sides of the saw blade to set up the perpendicularity(?) of the back fence - seems to be good. Thanks for the idea, I love the finished tool - far cheaper than the Festool sliding table!

Jon

Offline Mark Johnson

  • Posts: 34
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2017, 01:58 PM »
Would love to see some detailed shots when you can please.

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2017, 02:27 PM »
Hi Mark,
  . . . will do over the next couple of days.

Offline Z48LT1

  • Posts: 41
  • My excuse is I never expected to be caught.
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2017, 03:01 PM »
Is there any extruded aluminum tube with appropriate dimensions that would allow you to slice a section out of the middle of one face the right width for your need?

Just spitballing here.

Cheers,

Gary

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2017, 03:14 PM »
Hey Gary,

Thanks for that idea, I did consider 'making' my own track - but thought that a) I can't be the first person to ask such a crazy question as 'Does anyone make some t-track that fits the Festool accessories?' ::) and b) I'd rather spend a bit of money buying something that 'must' exist, somewhere ( . . . but clearly doesn't! . . . )

Any aluminum manufacturers out there care to run some up for us . . .?

btw, what is the English translation of 'spitballing'?  ;)

Offline Z48LT1

  • Posts: 41
  • My excuse is I never expected to be caught.
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2017, 03:33 PM »
From the Urban Dictionary:

Spitballing:  1)To toss ideas around with no expectation of them coming to pass, to brainstorm. 2) To make harmless jibes or attacks; make weak accusations.

I just checked McMaster Carr, the go-to mail-order place for materials here in the colonies, and they have 1" square aluminum excuse me aluminium tubing in 1/8" and 3/16" wall thickness in hobby lengths for moderate prices.  You guys got one of those places?

BTW I got this idea from Mirock who used this method in designing his slick TS 55 based super table saw.

Cheers,

Gary

Just checked - Amazon UK seems to have you covered.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2017, 03:45 PM by Z48LT1 »

Offline DrD

  • Posts: 363
  • I might not be fast BUT I sure am slow
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2017, 04:00 PM »
@mwildt Looooooove a shop with it's own wine rack.
Dr.D

Offline mwildt

  • Posts: 337
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #15 on: March 30, 2017, 05:36 PM »
@DrD Sure comes handy from time to time [big grin]
Kidding aside its our multipurpose room in the basement. My wife sewing machine is about 6' to the left in that picture. It works since I use Festool with minimal dust escaping. I try to use the garage as well but only when we have warmer weather so I can roll the summer car out.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2017, 05:53 PM by mwildt »

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #16 on: March 30, 2017, 05:43 PM »
Z48LT1,
Thanks for the comprenensive explanation of your Americanese colloquialism and the recognition of the correct spelling of aluminium  [big grin]

Yes I saw Mirock's video, what a smart dude he is!
Thanks for the research in the 1" tubing and yes, I've located some here in the newly Independent British Monarchy (IBM, for short).

I'll post you pic if I get around to making some track.

Thanks for your help.
Jon

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #17 on: March 30, 2017, 05:43 PM »
Z48LT1,
Thanks for the comprenensive explanation of your Americanese colloquialism and the recognition of the correct spelling of aluminium  [big grin]

Yes I saw Mirock's video, what a smart dude he is!
Thanks for the research in the 1" tubing and yes, I've located some here in the newly Independent British Monarchy (IBM, for short).

I'll post you pic if I get around to making some track.

Thanks for your help.
Jon

Offline Woodwork Wizard

  • Posts: 396
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #18 on: March 31, 2017, 05:46 AM »
@wimblejon

What a great idea to have just the two sides that slide in the V-grooves so there's no actual base plate on the sled so you don't lose any cut capacity. Impressive stuff. This is a major improvement on mine and I want one!


Ian

« Last Edit: March 31, 2017, 06:13 AM by Woodwork Wizard »

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2017, 03:09 PM »
Here are the CMS sled pics, as promised - (please note, Eddie, one of our Maine Coons decided he wanted to participate in order to offer some scale to the images - unfortunately, now the CMS table looks way too small!!!)

As mentioned above, the runners are oak (only because I had some lying around), the back and front are 18mm ply, the 'wings are 9mm mdf (only because I had some lying around - I'd probably have gone with 9mm ply if I'd had some) and the spacers (between the MDF and the ends are slivers of oak, cut to create a 1mm gap between the back, the front and the table. I used a couple of coats of Briwax on the runners and boy, do they now run!  . . . though not as fast as Eddie when he wants feeding  [smile]

Jon

Offline Mark Johnson

  • Posts: 34
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2017, 03:20 PM »
Thanks for this @wimblejon.

I have been thinking of making a Box Joint jig for the Table Saw, but was procrastinating on the best way to do the sled without a Mitre slot(s).  Like Woodwork Wizzard, I was unhappy at losing the cutting depth by having a sled base that sat on-top of the table, but your solution avoids that and would seem to give near equal rigidity. Very Nice.

Out of interest, what angle did you cut the runners on each side to fit in the Aluminium profile on the CMS table?

Thanks, Mark

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2017, 03:36 PM »
Mark,
Thanks for your kind comments.
Both of the runner sides are 45 degrees.
Jon

Offline Z48LT1

  • Posts: 41
  • My excuse is I never expected to be caught.
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #22 on: March 31, 2017, 04:32 PM »
Jon,

I gotta ask whether you're pulling my leg about that IBM moniker for old Blighty.  I think you may be joshing me there.

But I may have come up with another unworkable idea!

Depending on how accurate your dimensioning is, I think the stop's base may just fit in the slot of the 10 profile of an 8020 extrusion.

If not, it may take just a smidge of machining on either the stop or the extrusion to give the necessary clearance.

I'm sure one of the fellowship here can check that out in a jiffy.

Cheers,

Gary

« Last Edit: March 31, 2017, 04:41 PM by Z48LT1 »

Offline Mark Johnson

  • Posts: 34
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2017, 04:55 PM »
I'll let @wimblejon respond, but I suspect he is referring to the recent "Brexit" vote and the signing of the Article 50 letter to leave the EU.  So I'm guessing it was a tongue in cheek reference to that as the UK will become Independent of the EU, but remain a British  Monarchy, hence IBM.  I could be wrong though!
« Last Edit: March 31, 2017, 04:57 PM by Mark Johnson »

Offline wimblejon

  • Posts: 15
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2017, 07:00 PM »
Mark,
You were not wrong  [wink]

And Gary, thanks for your input, I think I'm probably erring towards the Mirock solution of making my own t-track. I've located some 20mm x 15mm rectangular ali tubing here (in the UK) and I may well employ my son who has one of these: https://www.tormach.com/product_pcnc_main.html
to assist with the milling. He's already turned one of my ordinary guide rails into an LR32 holey rail - it's 100% accurate!

I'll post here if/when I get that done.

Jon

Offline mwildt

  • Posts: 337
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #25 on: March 31, 2017, 09:27 PM »
A Tormach is super! With that kind of access I'm sure your project lost most be loong. Do share the results.

Offline Woodwork Wizard

  • Posts: 396
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #26 on: April 02, 2017, 08:31 AM »
@Mark Johnson

Box joint jig for CMS using a router and a 9mm bit. Other sizes would require another sled to be constructed though as this is for 9mm only. 


Offline Mark Johnson

  • Posts: 34
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #27 on: April 02, 2017, 08:39 AM »
Ohhhh very nice, now I want one even more and using a Router bit like a blade kerf - very cool  [laughing]
« Last Edit: April 02, 2017, 08:53 AM by Mark Johnson »

Offline Woodwork Wizard

  • Posts: 396
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #28 on: April 02, 2017, 09:20 AM »
Mark,

It's really easy to build a box joint jig for the CMS, the only awkward part was getting the stop block for the finger joints in exactly the right place to make a good tight fitting joint.
 





Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2037
Re: T-track question . . .
« Reply #29 on: April 02, 2017, 05:54 PM »
That's a really simple solution.   I too have been debating how to cut box joints on the CMS with my router.  I had an Incra iBox unit but ended up giving it to my son for use on his tablesaw.  But your solution of using the two v-grooves is great.

As for adjustability for different widths of fingers, you might be able to cut a separate face to go against the crosscut face and glue the index pin in it.  Make it out of perhaps 1/4 masonite or 1/2 material with two adjustment slots in it that let it slide side to side on your permanent cross-cut face while tightening down two bolts to hold it in place.  That would let you easily swap out for different width fingers. 

What's not clear in your design is how you are cutting a finger wider than the saw blade.  Are you running a dado blade on the Festool saw?

Thanks for sharing!