I didn’t take any photos as I was building my jig and there’s not much on the underside to see at this point. I think it’s probably more helpful for me to describe what I did. I am attaching a couple of photos showing the use of a 5" spacer block to assist with the installation of stick-on measurement tapes and positioning a workpiece.
The Base I'm using is the Lee Valley Veritas Large Worksurface. They are just stacking two sheets of Baltic birch plywood (I assume so as to cancel any camber). So you basically have a 1 1/2" thick Baltic birch plate with a T-slot track perimeter and 3/4" dog holes. There's not much to see in a photo on the underside. There is no MDF in my jig. The MDF is only in the top of the Festool MFT which I am using as a support table.
I just picked a location centered side to side and with the base of the DF 500 fully on the wood. I allowed the motor to hang off the back to maximize the workpiece mounting area but making sure I had enough room to rout a depression later for "quick-release" mounting plate.
I located holes by using my Woodpeckers base as a template to mark them out on the top surface. I used a caliper to check the diameter of the metric bolts that fit the two mounting holes in the base and drilled a tight fitting pair of holes. If I didn't have the Woodpeckers base I would have made a template out of a piece of scrap to transfer the drilling locations because it is really important to end up with the domino fence precisely parallel to the 3/4" dog hole pattern.
After drilling the holes I mounted the DF 500 to the Worksurface with two bolts which I purchased at a hardware store. I think they are 8 mm but you need to check this. The bolts I used are about 2 1/4" long and go through the base a bit further than they need to, which is no problem.
After getting the DF 500 fence mounted I cut two pieces of maple (actually some pieces I had been given made up of three-strip glue-ups that had been used for some sort of shipping purpose) 1 1/2' long and jointed and planed them to fit Veritas large "Flip-stops" and 1/2 of a three foot Veritas Tape T-Slot Track that I had cut in half.
I clamped a jointed piece of material to the Worksurface and tight to the face of the DF 500 fence. I marked a line parallel to the straightedge to use for locating fence hold-down screws and center punched three locations along the line for the screw holes. I drilled 1/8” through holes in all six locations using a drilling guide to maintain perpendicularity.
I then placed the wood fence section which is against the DF 500 angle locking tab and marked out the wood which needed to be removed to clear the tab in all positions. This meant cutting away more in the back than in the front of the fence to keep as much of the fence face as possible.
I then placed both fence sections in position against each side of the DF 500 (leaving around 1/32” of space to allow for future tool removal) and clamped them against the straightedge and down to the Worksurface using 4 clamps. I turned the worksurface over and clamped it to the bench with hold-down clamps. I then drilled through the Worksurface and into the clamped fence sections, opening the 1/8” holes up and creating the screw pre-drill.
I then unclamped everything, removed the fence sections and straightedge, and opened up and countersunk the holes in the Worksurface to 1/64” larger than the OD of the #10 screws used to hold down the fence sections.
I then re-clamped the straightedge and fence sections before installing the fence screws.
In order to align the stick-on measuring tape it was necessary to make a stop block because the Flip-stops can’t get much closer to the center mark than 3-to-4”. therefore I cut a 5” reference block and used that to set the tape position. the Flip-stops also have a fine adjustment screw which can be used to get a precise reference but I don’t find it necessary to use them.
There are a number of different hold-down options of course but I really think they will be unnecessary for most cuts. It’s very easy to hold the workpiece against the extended fence sections. The perpendicular fence that I showed in my previous post also make for secure hand-held positioning.
I really have only found it necessary to use a mechanical clamp when doing something like moving a cut over slightly to make a correction. I added the Woodriver quick set drill press hold down for those types of cuts. It’s cheap and very convenient to use but it’s throat depth is insufficient to reach close to the cut using the 3/4” dog holes so I drilled two 10 mm holes in a good position midway between dog holes on either side of the DF 500’s centerline. I also had to countersink the bottom of the Worksurface 3/8” to allow installation of a washer and 10 mm nut. This still leaves 1 1/8” of Baltic birch to resist the clamping forces. Everything is absolutely rigid.
Most of the time I’ll be making my cuts by hand holding the workpieces. When cutting on the end of a stick I do check to make sure the sliding side fence is perpendicular by just forcing it toward the fixed fence although I don’t find a tiny amount of error in that perpendicularity to be very significant. For me the most important issues are maintaining an equal reference to the complimentary end and edge cuts for a right-angled cut, and maintaining an absolutely perfect surface registration.
This jig does require the use of a riser strip under very thin material and perhaps a thick clamping strip above as well if the material is very thin. I don’t find these to be a problem. This jig seems to be providing the repeatability and accuracy in joint alignment that I am looking for and that I feel to be more important than exact positioning of the domino.