rdesigns
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Location: usa Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 170
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« on: July 15, 2011, 10:38 AM » |
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Received it yesterday, and test cuts resulted in burning blades. A close look at the carbide guides showed that one side was touching the blade while the other side had clearance. The fix was simple enough--loosen the torx screw that holds the guide assembly to the saw's body and adjust it slightly to center the guides on the blade. This also improved the perpendularity (sic) of the cut in thick stock.
The owner's manual didn't mention anything about this.
I suppose that the FastFix blade clamping chuck will always tighten one side of the blade against the same side of the chuck, so that when I use blades of different thicknesses, I will need to go thru the same adjustment of the carbide guide assembly since the FastFix chuck doesn't center the blade.
Anybody else notice this? (This is my first post to the forum; I am relatively new as a Festool junkie. I have already spent more on a few Festool portable tools--TS 55, CT26, OF 1400, EQ 300--than all the stationary tools in my shop.)
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SRSemenza
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jun 2007
Posts: 4003
Finger Lakes Region, NY State , USA
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2011, 11:28 AM » |
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Hi,
Welcome to the FOG !
It seems that you have fixed the problem. I did adjust my guides at some point, but I don't remember exactly why (burning?, propper fit? , etc), it was a few years ago.
Seth
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Seth R. Semenza
S. R. Semenza Woodworking
Festool Service 800-554-8741
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 2998
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2011, 03:24 PM » |
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 to the fog
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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justinmcf
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Location: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 711
Queensland Builder
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« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2011, 04:48 PM » |
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hi and welcome to the fog.
i have had similar issues with the trion.
i rectified these issues using the same methods as yourself.
i tend to use only festool blades so i dont need to adjust the carbide guides every time.
you will have to adjust the guides every time if your blades are of various thickness.
festool owners manuals are a waste of perfectly good paper.
unfortunately, there are no supplemental manuals for the trion jigsaw.
justin.
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Peter Halle
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
Posts: 6390
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« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2011, 06:23 PM » |
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Here is a video on how to set the blade guides for the Trion. There are tons of instructional videos on youtube. Just do a search with Festool and then the name of your product.
Peter |
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Julian Tracy
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Location: Redford, MI Member Since: Oct 2007
Posts: 427
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« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2011, 09:25 PM » |
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I've had two Trion's and sold them when I picked up a Bosch 1590 series. The Bosch has self adjusting blade guides making for more efficient use. I use different thickness blades all the time, so having to keep adjusting was a royal pain.
Julian
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allen r austin
Festool Dealer
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Location: Woodcraft, Roanoke Va. Member Since: Feb 2010
Posts: 71
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« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2011, 10:01 PM » |
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thanks, i have one verry blue blade!!
Allen
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expensive , how much did the one cost that doesn't work?
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Tom Bellemare
Festool Dealer
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Location: Austin, Texas - USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 3557
Festool demo's & personal service in Central Texas
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« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2011, 12:05 AM » |
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That example is the classic, "instructional method".
However, it is easier and more consistent if you push the blade all the way forward and tighten the guides until it cannot move backward. This, of course, must be done with the blade pulled fully outward and the saw in the fully eccentric position, as in the video. The blade is then prevented from dropping back into the normal position. You can bump it or wiggle it around and it will not drop back.
At this point, loosen the blade guides very slightly. When the blade pops back in to position, you have adjusted it properly. There is no finesse required.
The difference in the approach described above and that of the approach in the video is simple... The approach above eliminates the possibility that while a person's finger is pushing on the blade, it might be pushing slightly sideward.
If you trap the blade with the machine and only the machine('s guides), the finger pushing sideward is eliminated.
Any time that human error is introduced in fine tuning, that error will eventually display itself. Processes that eliminate, or minimize, error are inherently more accurate.
Tom
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« Last Edit: July 20, 2011, 12:07 AM by Tom Bellemare »
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