rickets
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Location: USA Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 39
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« on: August 10, 2012, 02:38 PM » |
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Not sure how to describe what's happening, but I adjusted my TS75 and trimmed the rail guide plastic. THEN, when cutting down sheet goods, the cut would start flush to the plastic guide, but then looks like the blade would deflect just a 1/32nds of an inch away from the guide. When I reach the end of the cut, I would leave the saw plunged and it would leave a small devit. I especially noticed it when I was cutting a 3/4" phenolic sheet. The deflection was at least 1/16, so I made multiple passes. Not sure what's really happening.
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SRSemenza
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jun 2007
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Finger Lakes Region, NY State , USA
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2012, 03:09 PM » |
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Hi,
If you can post a picture showing the deflection that would be helpful. But a couple general things.......
The rails stick well without clamps but be sure that you are not applying force in a sideways direction , or altering the direction that you are pushing on the saw handle as it travels down the rail. That could cause a slight movement of the rail. Or cause the blade to deflect slightly.
If the spot where it is going wrong is only at the exit end , make sure the blade fully passes from the work piece before allowing it to raise.
Seth
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Seth R. Semenza
S. R. Semenza Woodworking
Festool Service 800-554-8741
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woodwrights_corner
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 56
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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2012, 06:05 PM » |
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What length of guide rail are you using? What is the length of the phenolic you are cutting? Did you just adjust the depth and/or bevel or did you readjust other screws on the saw? What blade are you using? Are you using clamps? And lastly, what speed do you have your set?
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woodwrights_corner
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
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« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2012, 06:09 PM » |
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One more question, is the saw tight on the guide rail or is there some sideways "slop".
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rickets
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Location: USA Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2012, 01:13 AM » |
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Well, I adjusted the saw again, giving the back of the blade a little 'toe in'. I clamp everything, speed was 6, i cut on the mft, and blade has been sharpened. I just did a cross cut after the new adjustment and seems to have worked. The cut was flush to the plastic guard.
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Kapex w/ UG-Kart, Domino, Planex, T15+3, Centrotec Installers Kit, TS75, PSB300, RO150, RS2E, DTS 400, OF2200 w/Imperal set, OF1400, MFK700, HL850E, CT33, New Midi, CT36AC, MFS400+700 extensions, Parallel guide set, LR32 with 55" track, boom arm set, MFT/3, Kapex MFT, and some other accessories.
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RvB
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Location: Holland Member Since: Jan 2011
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« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2012, 01:54 AM » |
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Forgive me if i'm wrong, but the backside of the blade with
the TS's has to be toe out.. I set it at 0.15mm..
Thnx
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2012, 02:50 AM » |
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The rear of the blade should be slightly further away from the sacrificial strip for best results.
Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2012, 03:09 AM » |
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Toe-in is a common term that means the toe (front), not the heel, is in, or toward the center. With a saw like the TS 55, that means it is to the left at the front of the blade. Rick describes quite well how to fine tune these saws here. Tom |
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rickets
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Location: USA Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2012, 02:29 AM » |
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yeah, i have read the suppliemental to the saw. Didn't think putting on that slight toe-in would make such a difference.
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Kapex w/ UG-Kart, Domino, Planex, T15+3, Centrotec Installers Kit, TS75, PSB300, RO150, RS2E, DTS 400, OF2200 w/Imperal set, OF1400, MFK700, HL850E, CT33, New Midi, CT36AC, MFS400+700 extensions, Parallel guide set, LR32 with 55" track, boom arm set, MFT/3, Kapex MFT, and some other accessories.
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