Thanks for the honest review, as I was sceptical from day one about that LED shadow thingy. Pretty big bummer. Cheap engineering choice here.

The dust extraction is usually Festool's flagship bulletpoint, if it is sub-par then it is a real problem. I'll wait for more feedbacks with a 36mm hose though.

The slow spindown is only a problem if you wait for complete blade stop before you lift the saw, which I have never done on my Bosch saw and I have never suffered a single kickback on that saw.

I'd be interrested in knowing :
- is there a detent at the vertical 0° position (square cutting) and is this detend adjustable (set screw as a stop or else ?)
- is the LED adjustable sideways in case the light is not perfectly centered with the blade plane
- is this saw throwing offcuts or kickback sensitive like the KS120

 I too have had a bitter sweet experience with my first Kapex.  Having seen the reviews on YouTube (thank you Peter and Dave) I eagerly opened my new toy when it arrived and fitted it to its new UG cart.  Having owned a heavy Dewalt which was sold to fund this purchase I was delighted with the weight and size. 

The machine felt well build and the slide mechanism is sublime.  I then went about checking it for true and square.  The fence was not and is not square to the bed.  Its out by maybe 0.5mm which for my DIY needs is sufficient, however, not what I was expecting.  I was also surprised when I discovered that it wasn't cutting square either, out by 1mm over its full cut length.  I went to adjust it and the hex head bolts on the fence were so tight from the factory that I rounded two of them trying to remove it.  Fortunately I managed to loosen them sufficiently that I could remove them and replace them once square.  I had the light on my previous saw and I have to say I quite like it.  I tend to simply align my blade with my cut line but its useful if you are using it with a less experienced friend/family member.  I haven't used it in anger sufficiently yet to talk about its dust extraction qualities but I suspect it is better than any mitre saw I have used to date. 

The UG cart is a god send.  I have a standard one car UK garage and to be able to fold it up and move it about with ease actually makes me more inclined to use it for jobs I would previously have not bothered with.  The extensions are a good design and I am glad I have them but the tapes on them are infuriatingly inaccurate.  Not only are they out against all of my other tapes but they are not consistent along their own length as if they have been stretched in places whilst being installed.  That rather defeats the purpose of having them for me as I had hoped to use them in conjunction with a tape for bang on cuts.

In the 20 or so years I've been a carpenter I dont think Ive seen anyone cut skirting (or baseboard if your American) stood up on the saw.
Its always been layed flat.
I stopped cutting it stood up when the Nobex was retired.

In the 20 or so years I've been a carpenter I dont think Ive seen anyone cut skirting (or baseboard if your American) stood up on the saw.
Its always been layed flat.
I stopped cutting it stood up when the Nobex was retired.

Funny how people work the same type of cut in completely different manners - but hopefully with the same results.
I prefer baseboard standing up as blade splintering will occur on the backside or underside and not on visible parts of the baseboard, at least in my experience and with the blades I use. I also find it easier to trim angles this way.

But I sometimes cut baseboard on the flat. I am not rigid in my workflow and my preference to standing the baseboard up is simply because the most common size over here lend themselves well to be cut this way. Less bow in longer lengths too.  I have no tally on how other carpenters go about it but from memory I have rarely seen cuts on the flat except for larger moldings.

Larger moldings I cut on the flat. For obvious reasons.