Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
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« on: May 19, 2012, 12:15 PM » |
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Hello Everyone I finally managed to get a TS55R having 'played' with one briefly over 6 weeks ago. I need a saw to fit in my CMS unit and the TS55R is much easier to set into a CMS module than either the TS55 or TS75 (so I have been told - not having tried either). This now gives me the capability of taking a single saw, my CMS and some guide rails away from base and I can quickly swap over the two roles of the saw. I did a lot of research before taking this step and I am absolutely satisfied with my decision. I am in the process of preparing two videos showing the saw in the CMS unit - it is quite impressive and far better than I had imagined when I started out. Needless to say, I am now broke again!
Enjoy the video. Peter |
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« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 12:17 PM by Stone Message »
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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Kev
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Location: Australia Member Since: Nov 2011
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« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2012, 12:35 PM » |
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Congratulations Peter - good video and a nice saw. My TS55 is only a few month old ... now it's last season's fashion  cheers, Kev. |
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Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
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« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2012, 01:06 PM » |
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Congratulations Peter - good video and a nice saw. My TS55 is only a few month old ... now it's last season's fashion cheers, Kev. Hi Kev I love my older TS55 - it is a great saw and still does what I expect of it. I needed something for the CMS unit and felt that the TS55R was perfect for the job. I don't think that anyone should rush to upgrade but anyone needing a new saw will be delighted with the improvements that Festool have managed to squeeze in - and at the same price! One of the key things that I need in the CMS unit saw is a good riving knife because I do quite a Lot of rebating and have to run the saw without the riving knife extension. hence the TS55R being much better for me. I will demonstrate this in the second CMS/TS55R video which is still a long way from completion. Take care, Peter |
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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joiner1970
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Location: London, England Member Since: Jun 2007
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« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2012, 02:57 PM » |
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Peter
Surely the 9mm is plus the blade thickness so it would be around 12mm as festool quote . If cutting tight up against a wall for example the distance to the left hand side (furthest from the wall) is more important .
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megabitzu
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Location: romania Member Since: May 2012
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« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2012, 03:00 PM » |
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nice review really nice and helpful
i decided to buy one ts 55 brand new .
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Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
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« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2012, 03:36 PM » |
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Peter
Surely the 9mm is plus the blade thickness so it would be around 12mm as festool quote . If cutting tight up against a wall for example the distance to the left hand side (furthest from the wall) is more important .
For me, the key measurement is the amount of material left next to the wall - in other words, it is how close the cut is to the wall. When I cut out the flooring next week it is the distance that I have described that is important - the material on the other side of the kerf is being removed. Festool are quoting the wrong figure - they should quote 9mm - it is far better. Peter |
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2012, 04:59 PM » |
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Peter
Surely the 9mm is plus the blade thickness so it would be around 12mm as festool quote . If cutting tight up against a wall for example the distance to the left hand side (furthest from the wall) is more important .
For me, the key measurement is the amount of material left next to the wall - in other words, it is how close the cut is to the wall. When I cut out the flooring next week it is the distance that I have described that is important - the material on the other side of the kerf is being removed. Festool are quoting the wrong figure - they should quote 9mm - it is far better. Peter I'm with joiner. When you said its the other side which is more important in your video I disagreed. Would be very angry if I bought the TS55r thinking it cuts 9mm from the wall but it's actually 12mm. I don't know if you received one but a while I ago I got a promotion card from festool which had this card inside and when you pulled/pushed it out a man with the TS55r moved back and forth "cutting" the floorboards. Now festool obviously believe this function to cut near to wall for jobs like laying flooring and then after going round trimming the ends so it's all equal from the wall either for a "shadow gap" or expansion gap as the average expansion gap needed is 12-15mm. Now I don't really know when I would use the 9mm side near walls to be honest. I did think maybe when ripping up old flooring I could remove the skirting then cut the flooring where it might run through under studding etc. then I could lay new and re skirt which would hide the joint but 12 mm will still work. I would like to know which jobs would require the off cut side 9mm??? Jmb |
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waynelang2001
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Location: south africa Member Since: Feb 2010
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« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2012, 05:11 PM » |
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Peter
Surely the 9mm is plus the blade thickness so it would be around 12mm as festool quote . If cutting tight up against a wall for example the distance to the left hand side (furthest from the wall) is more important .
For me, the key measurement is the amount of material left next to the wall - in other words, it is how close the cut is to the wall. When I cut out the flooring next week it is the distance that I have described that is important - the material on the other side of the kerf is being removed. Festool are quoting the wrong figure - they should quote 9mm - it is far better. Peter I'm with joiner. When you said its the other side which is more important in your video I disagreed. Would be very angry if I bought the TS55r thinking it cuts 9mm from the wall but it's actually 12mm. I don't know if you received one but a while I ago I got a promotion card from festool which had this card inside and when you pulled/pushed it out a man with the TS55r moved back and forth "cutting" the floorboards. Now festool obviously believe this function to cut near to wall for jobs like laying flooring and then after going round trimming the ends so it's all equal from the wall either for a "shadow gap" or expansion gap as the average expansion gap needed is 12-15mm. Now I don't really know when I would use the 9mm side near walls to be honest. I did think maybe when ripping up old flooring I could remove the skirting then cut the flooring where it might run through under studding etc. then I could lay new and re skirt which would hide the joint but 12 mm will still work. I would like to know which jobs would require the off cut side 9mm??? Jmb I agree JMB, that 9mm piece is scrap and has no use. When you take that away with the thickness of the blade you will have a 12mm gap, not 9mm. |
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Peter Parfitt
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« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2012, 05:13 PM » |
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Let me try it another way...
If I can make a cut whose inside edge is 9mm from a wall then I know that I can definitely make a cut with an inside edge 10,11 or 33 mm from that wall.
or
If I said that I could park my car (make a cut) 12mm from a wall, would you expect me to be telling you where the nearside or the offside would be from the wall? (distance a or b in the picture).
In reality it is a semantic problem - how far is a cut away from a wall? Is it measurement 'a' (the nearest that the cut is to the wall) or 'b' (the furthest that the cut is from the wall)?
Perhaps, we can get back to the matter in hand and check out the TS55R.
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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waynelang2001
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Location: south africa Member Since: Feb 2010
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« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2012, 05:25 PM » |
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Let me try it another way...
If I can make a cut whose inside edge is 9mm from a wall then I know that I can definitely make a cut with an inside edge 10,11 or 33 mm from that wall.
or
If I said that I could park my car (make a cut) 12mm from a wall, would you expect me to be telling you where the nearside or the offside would be from the wall? (distance a or b in the picture).
In reality it is a semantic problem - how far is a cut away from a wall? Is it measurement 'a' (the nearest that the cut is to the wall) or 'b' (the furthest that the cut is from the wall)?
Perhaps, we can get back to the matter in hand and check out the TS55R.
Peter
Ok i dont really think replacing a car for a blade really works. I would think that the only reason you would want to say it cuts 9mm from the wall is if you wanted to use that 9mm piece for something. Other then that your still left with a 12mm gap, from the wall to the cut. Anyway thats how I think. Besides that I have the track saw model before the ts range, the ATF 55, so I think this would be a pretty big upgrade. I might have a look at it when it hits south africa. |
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Peter Parfitt
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« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2012, 11:40 PM » |
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I fully understand the importance of the 12mm figure and I accept the views above. The reason that the distance from the wall to the cut (9 mm) is important for me is that knowing that it is under 15mm means that I can hide replacement chipboard flooring joins under skirting board after removing the old stuff. Stud walls (in UK) are put in after the flooring and so when flooring has to be removed during renovation it is nice to hide some of the longer joins as the renovated house will be sold with no carpet and the new flooring will show.
I am glad the old ATF55 is still going strong. It just goes to show how well Festool make things. Do take a close look at the TS55R when it becomes available in South Africa - I am delighted with mine.
Take care
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2012, 03:01 AM » |
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I fully understand the importance of the 12mm figure and I accept the views above. The reason that the distance from the wall to the cut (9 mm) is important for me is that knowing that it is under 15mm means that I can hide replacement chipboard flooring joins under skirting board after removing the old stuff. Stud walls (in UK) are put in after the flooring and so when flooring has to be removed during renovation it is nice to hide some of the longer joins as the renovated house will be sold with no carpet and the new flooring will show.
I am glad the old ATF55 is still going strong. It just goes to show how well Festool make things. Do take a close look at the TS55R when it becomes available in South Africa - I am delighted with mine.
Take care
Peter
So what I said above then [/quote] Now I don't really know when I would use the 9mm side near walls to be honest. I did think maybe when ripping up old flooring I could remove the skirting then cut the flooring where it might run through under studding etc. then I could lay new and re skirt which would hide the joint
I would like to know which jobs would require the off cut side 9mm???
[/quote] So as for using the 9mm for other jobs I can not think of any. Because if I gotta get as close as 9mm for some reason it most likely needs to be flush. Plus if I did remove old flooring leaving 9mm and was sticking new flooring down and the skirting hides the joint between new and old I still wouldn't be able to do that because it leaves 9mm, skirting is 18mm plus so I'm left with 9mm min for expansion but I also need to tuck the flooring under soo I won't have enough expansion gap. I see where your coming from and why you use a car as an example but it doesn't work like at. A trades men when told a circular saw will cut 12mm from a wall will assume its on the cut side not the off cut side. A car owner if told the car can park 12mm away from the wall automatically will actually assume the front end will be 12mm away from the wall unless told different. I believe festool should stick both figures on for people like your self who might find it useful. |
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2012, 03:07 AM by jmbfestool »
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2012, 03:50 AM » |
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i can see its usefull to cut expansion gaps after floorings is laid but i would put them there first. taking up sub flooring it would be useful but i wouldnt rip up sub flooring with a saw like that anyway.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #13 on: May 20, 2012, 07:25 AM » |
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i can see its usefull to cut expansion gaps after floorings is laid but i would put them there first. taking up sub flooring it would be useful but i wouldnt rip up sub flooring with a saw like that anyway.
+1 +1 |
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