I've started my review of the MFK700. I don't have much done at this point, but I wanted to start the thread/discussion now, that way I can have input from you guys as to what you'd like to see in the review. So feel free to ask questions and/or make suggestions, after all, I'm doing this for all of you.

  Before we get started I'd like to talk a little about what is review isn't going to covered in detail, that's the cost of the tool and its "perceived value". I may talk about what makes this tool valuable to me, I'm not going to make an attempt to "sell" anyone this tool or try convince you this tool is "Easier, Faster, Smarter" than the competition's offerings. I will try to focus on the tool's unique features and capabilities, then let you decide if the MFK will be of value to your work. One last thing I'd like to say before we go any farther, as most of you already know I am a huge Festool fan. This review will not be completely unbiased, I've bought into the Festool "system", in that regard, I tend to favor tools that fit into that "system". If you feel I'm too biased in this review, call me on it, we will discuss it.

From those of you considering the MFK, I hope you feel this review is helpful. Enjoy.

         
 The Festool MFK 700 EQ, edge trimming just got a whole lot easier, by Brice Burrell

The MFK's horizontal and vertical bases make this a versatile tool, and not just for edge trimming. With the edge guide and a couple of shop made attachments this tool really becomes versatile. From dovetail joints to mortises, this little router is going to be a workhorse in my shop.....


I like to start off by showing "what's in the box" or in Festool's case, in the Systainer. Here it is, all packed in neatly.


 The card attached to the lid of the Systainer is something we are familiar with, I for never paid much attention to it. But take a closer look at the lower right corner........


If you have ever struggled to get the tool, its parts, cord and of the accessories back in, good news. Festool has finally decided to add a picture of all the "stuff" properly placed in the Systainer, thank you Festool.


Before we leave the subject of the Systainer, there is one more thing to point out. The clever engineers at Festool designed the insert to fit the horizontal base or the vertical base, so it doesn?t matter what base you have on the motor it will fit into the Systainer. In this picture the horizontal base is fitted to the motor(also in the Systainer is the edge guide). In the first picture on the page the vertical base is installed.


You've seen it in the Systainer, so here's a shot of it out. The US version of the MFK 700 EQ includes: motor, vertical base, chip deflector for the vertical base, 1.5 degree horizontal base, vacuum attachment for the horizontal base, sensor bearing, allen key for the sensor bearing, 1/4" collet, 8 mm collet, collet wrench, Plug-It cord, instruction manual all packed into a Systainer #2.

Text and pictures, copyright 2008, Brice Burrell

Tom, good question. I'd say if you had the 0 degree horizontal base and the domino/dowel were close to the edge of the work piece, then yes. I can't say for certain, because I don't have the 0 degree base. BTW, the 0 degree base isn't part of the set, its an accessory, sold separately. I'll look into this and get some shots to provide a better explanation when time allows.

Michael, probably not, I don't think there would be enough room, the opening in the base is kind of small for that. I like this domino/dowel trimming idea, I'll look into it and include it in the review.

BTW, this is exactly what I had in mind when I asked for the members input, thanks guys.

When using the Ryobi, are you using a home-made horseshoe sub-base so that you use the router like any other router, but the C-shape of the supplementary base allows you to simply slide the router over the protruding dowel? The depth of the router bit is set so that almost touches the surface, and will shear off the top of the dowel.

Brice - although one could design a horseshoe sub-base for any router, can one be easily fitted to the MFK700?

The Trend T2 Laminate Router uses the same sort of operation, but in this case the base is designed to be horseshoe-shaped from the beginning:



For rather more money, there's the Lamello Plano 45...



...shown in operation at the 4min 48sec point in this video

Forrest

Guys,
You could easily make a horse-shoe base for the MFK 700 and attach it with one 8mm flat head screw, from the bottom, (countersink the head into the sub base from the bottom) through the hole which is already in the base under the handle (on the Vertical base).  Notice the top side of the hole is made to accept (trap) an 8 mm nut, so attaching sub bases to this router would be very easy.  Jerry Work uses this hole for mounting to a MFT, but I'll bet the original design for this hole was for mounting and securing sub bases

Jay

Here's an alternate solution for vertical trimming:

http://www.patwarner.com/vertical_trim_subbase.html

I have a jig similar to Pat Warner's that I use with a PC trim router.  The only drawback to this approach is that it takes a while to get the bit set to the correct cutting depth, so I dedicated an old trim router to the task.

I am very interested to follow this thread, as I am thinking about selling several old routers and buying the MFK700 with the proceeds.

What kind of height adjustment is there in this configuration?

The Betterley router at the top of the page would trim dowels too and the clamps in the rest of the article are interesting.

Solid surface stufff

Forrest,
That is exactly what I'm using - a horseshoe shaped base on the trim router.  If I would make another base, I would cut a "C" out of a piece of rectangular plastic as to have more stability when cutting.  It seems I never fail to tip the router a little on one of the cuts.

But, the way Brice has it set up in the photo, it looks like the Festool router could be used in the same manner.  The horizontal base would help keep the router steady during a cut.  Thanks Brice.

Tom.

I didn't order the 0 deg. base with my MFK 700 because I wasn't sure it would be worth the price. It will be interesting to see what uses for it are discovered as this router gets into more hands.


John

Brice,

I checked it out. The vertical orientation in the 1.5 deg base is 1.5 off vertical. It still could get you very close as a dowel trimmer.

Roland, pretty much any edge trimming bit will work in the MFK, so no, you don't have to use a "special" Festool bit. Unfortunately, when trimming edge banding the adhesive "gum up" is always an issue.

Brice,

I had a chance to see the MFK 700 this weekend.  I placed the motor in the horizontal base, and unless you have a really short bit, I don't see how it would work for trimming dowels flush.

Tom.

I must not have been paying attention when this was discussed but,

1. what is the purpose of the 1.5 degree tilt
2. what kind of bit do you use?
3. are there any US designed router that do this, if so which?
4. or, do we just use special bits in a different way in NA?

Michael, the 1.5 degree horizontal base tilts the base 15. off the centerline of the bit, this produces a very slight chamfer. The purpose this to prevent cutting into the horizontal surface when edge trimming. Here's a model, veneer plywood with edge banding, the bit is held at 1.5 degree (exaggerated angle in the model) to prevent cutting the face veneer.

No special bit needed and I don't know of any other router that does this.

The Virutex looks like a nice trimmer but it lacks dust collection. I've been doing a lot of laminate work with
my Bosch Colt lately and can attest how much better life would be if I could capture the dust at the tool.

I just purchased the new MFT/3 plus a bunch of other accessories leaving me somewhat cash poor. The MFK 700 EQ
is on the horizon as the next addition for me. Luckily, this is a hobby and not an occupation.

Tilt-ability is very cool!

This model seems to have dust collection covered.

See also this reasonably priced work piece holder stand.

The vertical base can fit up to a 1" diameter bit. On he US version, the base is threaded (tapped) for standard Porter Cable style guide bushings (now if I could only find metric sized PC bushings). Phenolic base to prevent scratching the of work surface.


With guide bushing you can use the MFK with dovetail jigs, templates and of course, the MFS template system.


The vertical base has a chip deflector with a vac port, one thumb screw attaches the assembly. Vac port fits both the D36 and D27 hoses.


A view from the top of the vertical base, you can see one of the two attachment points for the edge guide (arrow far left), the vac port built into the base, fits the D27 hose (arrow upper center) and one of the four bit centerlines (arrow lower right).

Text and pictures, copyright 2008, Brice Burrell
 

Brice,

I am interested in the 0 deg. horizontal base. Will you be reviewing that as well? Is there room in the systainer for it? it looks a lil tight.
The 0 deg base is needed if you apply your veneer after edge banding. It would also be useful in trimming edge banding around an outside corner since with the 1.5 deg base the bit height would be too high to cut the banding flush as you go around the corner.

Eiji

Brice,
I'm anxiously waiting for more.

One more question. How is the DC when using the guide bushing? It seem like there is nowhere for the chips to go when the bit is in the bushing hole. I was wanting this router for hinge prep.

thanks Eiji

  As promised, here the results while routing a shallow mortise like for a hinge. I used the MFS and MFK with a 1/2" bit/3/4" bushing, with the MFS template overhanging the edge of the stock, where the barrel (where the hinge pin goes) part of the hinge over hangs the door. the dust collection is only fair to poor. With the template closed with a backer block (like Eiji's did in his door project, bottom pic on reply #102) the DC is excellent, very, very close to 100%.

  If this doesn't make sense to anyone don't worry I'll be including pictures in the review that will it what I said clear.

Eiji,

If you use an up-spiral bit that has flutes going up through the bushing I think you will get good DC. The flutes help to channel the chip upward in concert with the vacuum. I suspect you will get better DC than just about any other router out there. Not many 'trim routers' have DC built in.

No, not yet. Let me know what size you use and I'll try that combo just for you (since it looks like you may be getting a MFK very soon).

I tried a 1/2" bit with a 5/8" bushing. As you might has suspected the DC isn't as good, but only when the router is not completely covering opening in the template, as in the picture below.



However with the MFK's base coving the template like the picture above, the DC is nearly 100%.







Here's a pic to show what I meant about the template being open, this allows dust to escape from the opening and the DC is fair to poor.


Anytime the template is enclosed on all sides the DC is excellent like it is in this pic or with Eiji's backer block idea.

  There is good news and bad news about this review. First the bad news, I'm going to be delayed  even more in getting this review done. Now the good news, you are going to like why its being delayed.............

Brice, The good news for me has been that I am slowly getting caught up with some of my outside work, and have had a little more time for lurking on the FOG.  This morning, I have had enough time to read thru this entire thread and was really getting interested in your report.  Also some very interesting points brought up by others.  I was really getting excited.

The bad news:  That box does NOT look like something to go with the MFK 700.  Now, I suspect it contains something I have been ?persuading? myself I do not need.  Come on, my friend, give me a break.  How can I ignore when you keep coming up with these great reviews.  And I am sure that box contains your next review source.

I will just find it necessary to go back to searching for more info for my landscaping projects.  It is much safer for me.

Tinker

Brice... nice review.  At this rate, I'll have to trade my Green Visa in for a Black American Express. 

That's good news! Thanks, Mark.


John

I make a frequent use of veneered maple and oak plywood (very thin veneer!) to which I apply 1/4" hardwood edging. For years I have used a Lamello Cantex lipping planer which does a perfect job of planing the edging flush to the veneer without digging into it. I recently bought an MFK700 for other purposes (round-overs and various edge treatments) and I love it. However, I experimented planing hardwood edging using the 1.5deg base and so far I have been disappointed with the results. First I find the adjustment very critical (with thin veneer). Too much in, and I dig into the veneer / too much out and I leave a small residue to be sanded or scraped away. Also any variation in the thickness of the edging material causes the bit to gouges into the veneer as it it registers against the thickness of the edging (the Lamello Cantex registers against the veneer and is extremely ease to adjust reliably). I don't know if I am missing something or if my technique leaves something to be desired but I am interested in the findings developping on this thread. My assessment so far is that the Cantex is way superior at lip-planing but is a single purpose tool. The MFK700 is a very versatile tool and the best lightweight router I have ever used. I am curious to learn about uses for the 1.5deg base,

Louis

Nada???

Thanks Brice, I'm a little concerned because of Louis' (lat) post. Maybe there's a learning curve.