I am new to the FOG, but I am about to make my first Festool purchase. Doesn't really make me an owner yet!  I was originally planning on buying the 1.75 hp Saw Stop, but the limited space in my shop got me looking at other options.  I have decided on the TS55 and 55" rails.  Portability and taking up less valuable space are top reasons, plus Festools reputation.  My question is would most people recommend buying the guide rail connectors and other accessories separately or buying the guide rail kit?  I like a lot of the options for parallel guides I have seen here, but what other accessories or purchases I should seriously consider?

I am also looking at the OF1400 router, since it accepts 1/2 inch shank router bits.  I used this model at a class I took on routers and liked it more than my Ridgid which i can leave in my router table, but wanted to get some owners reviews and recommendations.  I am also considering the guide used in conjuction with the guide rails and wanted to see if people like this feature.

Bryan

   to The FOG, Bryan.

It is marvelous that you participate in Festool Advance Router Class. I assume that was in Lebanon, with Brian "The Sedge" Sedgeley as trainer.

Back in 2006, when I bought my first TS55, my dealer explained that I could connect 2 of the 55" guide rails using 2 of the connector bars, which are sold as units of one. Two of the connectors are part of the kit. I actually bought a third 55" rail, since I was frustrated by the loss of time disconnecting rails when I needed to make a cross cut. That third rail proved to be an outstanding investment, because it saves time and provides the straight edge to ensure correct connection of the long rail.

These days I advise others to consider passing on the kit, at least for subsequent TS saws or routers. When you add up the price of a pair of screw clamps, the 2 cat 482 107 connector bars the deflector and the limit stop, plus a Systainer, you are getting the Angle Unit virtually for free. Although some knock the Angle Unit, there are many situations where it is most handy. All that is explained in the Intro to Festool class.

Currently there is a hot topic here about selecting Festool routers. I own several OF1010 and MFK700 routers, in addition to 2 OF2200. So I already was experienced with the OF2200 and OF1010 when the OF1400 was introduced. I still own one of them, but I rarely use it. The OF2200 is powerful, but is so smooth I prefer it over the OF1400 when a job needs a 1/2" shank bit and/or more power than an OF1010.

Possibly the OF1400 was designed to be an all-round router for those who will only own a single router. You already have a router in your table. So my suggestion is to consider the OF1010, which is more than powerful enough to make rabbets and dadoes in plywood and is ideal for drilling LR32 holes. You can also connect the OF1400 to conventional rails for straight routing and to the "Holy" rails used in LR32. I just find it is less frustrating to connect OF1010 to rails. The OF2200 does not connect to rails.

Yes, the OF1400 accepts 1/2" shank bits, but it only takes small raised panel bits, which I find frustrating trying to buy. Of course by the time the OF 1400 came along I already owned a whole lot of panel raising sets.

Getting back to your TS55, since I bought my first guide rails, Festool now offers the 55" "Holy" rail for just slightly more than the conventional rails. Early in 2011 Festool introduced an LR32 connector, making it practical to combine 2 rails and still keep the 32mm hole spacing. So, I suggest keeping the 55" rail which came with your TS55 and buying two of the Holy rails as the extras. Then when you do decide to use the LR32 system to drill adjustable shelf pin holes, you will be all set. BTW, when you do go into LR32, do yourself and your bank account a favor and buy that set. Such a deal!

Bryan
Welcome.


This somewhat depends on what you plan to make/build.
I have the guide rail kit and despite the crappy reviews of the angle unit, I have found it works very well for what it was designed to do.
Because I do work on site and often need to connect more than one rail to another I can put two pairs of rail connectors in the Systainer along with a slotted screwdriver to tighten the (slotted?) screws on the rail connectors.

I don't have a 1400 (yet) so I can't help you there.
Tim

Hi Brian and welcome to FOG

Since you alrady have a table mounted router, I would go with the 1010. Thats what I did and Im happy.

I would do what others suggested and get thelr32 rail ILO the normal rail. You will need another 1400 rail (55") and connectors.
So you can rip 8' ply.

After you take the first sip of kool aid and get addicted like the rest of us. i would look seriously at the MFT (or build one) and a dust collector.

Then theres no turning back for you.

Hi Bryan,

Welcome to the FOG!  

Ditto what Terry says about the guide rail length.

The adapter for the OF1400 to be used on the guide rail works well and is worth  having for dadoes.

I would skip the guide rail iaccessory kit and just buy the clamps and deflector seperately.

Seth

Get ready to drop about $10000 in the next three or so months. Seriously, once you start you can't stop it stings! That's what happened with me anyways welcome to the FOG!

The only reason for 2 55" that I can figure is if you are transporting these to a job site. For my second track I bought the 118" track so I can do an 8 foot cut. If you a get a TS75 you still can do an 8 foot cut without joining tracks.

Thanks to all that responded.  You all gave me some things to consider.  Since most of my work will be at my home shop, going with the longer rails may be the way to go for rips, and keeping the 55" rail for crosscuts.  I think I will also skip the guide rail accessory kit and buy individual accessories. As for the router I am having second thoughts and may just keep my Bosch in the table and Ridgid dedicated as the plunge.  Who knows once I get the TS 55 I may just go wild and become another addict.