Author Topic: Comment on Festools & Improvements you may want to see for them.  (Read 56308 times)

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Offline Fred West

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You know guys, I have had considerable interaction with Nick and I can say without any hesitation that that his motives and honor are every bit as high as the quality of Festool. I think that since our forum allows for complaints as well as compliments that we should take him at his word that he is doing something to try and help Festool and us. I have read the entire thread and it seems as if it was taken off course almost from the beginning.

Now I know that each of us reads, sees and feels things differently. My guess is that is what has caused at least part of it but my suggestion is possibly if you believe me then take me at my word that Nick is NOT disingenuous and maybe if you re-read the thread with this in mind it may appear differently. On the other hand if you dislike me, my post, etc., well then just ignore this. :) :D ;) Fred 
Domino,TS 75, Trion PS 300, RO 150, ETS 150/5, DTS 400, RS 400, LS 130, RS 2, Deltex 93, CT 33 CT 22, CT Midi & 3 MFT 1080s, OF 1400, C 12, RAS 115, MFK 700, MFT/3 :o)

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Offline Eiji Fuller

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The TS75 saw cuts the bevel farther out from the strip than the 90 deg cut. So when cuttn the 45 after the 90 it leaves a flat. I fixed it myself with no help from fesfool. I tried calling the service dept with this issue and they could not help. I have to say they have been great with everything else but on this issue they ignored me. Total false advertising here.

Eiji, if I remember correctly you and Mirko figured out that a shim needed to be added to your TS 75 saws between the saw mounts and the shoe (base plate). Do you remember the thickness of that shim?

I was fiddling with laminate but ended up using a credit card. Make sure to use one that is maxed out. they tend to be just a tad thicker. ;D

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 3537
The TS75 saw cuts the bevel farther out from the strip than the 90 deg cut. So when cuttn the 45 after the 90 it leaves a flat. I fixed it myself with no help from fesfool. I tried calling the service dept with this issue and they could not help. I have to say they have been great with everything else but on this issue they ignored me. Total false advertising here.

Eiji, if I remember correctly you and Mirko figured out that a shim needed to be added to your TS 75 saws between the saw mounts and the shoe (base plate). Do you remember the thickness of that shim?

I was fiddling with laminate but ended up using a credit card. Make sure to use one that is maxed out. they tend to be just a tad thicker. ;D

Thanks Eiji. That's a pretty substantial shim, but at least it's a convenient size. I'd like to know if this is a universal problem with TS 75s or an aberration. I can't decide which is worse.

Offline steverunner

  • Posts: 25
huhm um , strange topic, sounds like politics and religion, probably better not talk about it if you want to keep your friends

- Brice is right the database will not "help" Festool, beside its not our role to track it anyway,

- Now , I have to say you brought a controversial topic,  so you have too expect people falling on your back
that being said, I personally thinks that some people sugar coat Festool a bit too muc h,
 Festool product are great , fine  but when I see the Kapex @ 1350$ vs Makita @ 500$,  Festool is exagerating  (read woodworker review)
it can 't be that super extra differnt miter saw to justify  850 $ differnce
mfk 700 @ 510 $ ,,........??! i am puzzled ..............................check Bosch Colt @ 100$
a systainer 1 50$ and with drawer @ 115 $ ( it cost no more that 20$ in China ) SERIOUSLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?







Offline MichaelM

  • Posts: 41

I personally thinks that some people sugar coat Festool a bit too muc h,
 Festool product are great , fine  but when I see the Kapex @ 1350$ vs Makita @ 500$,  Festool is exagerating  (read woodworker review)
it can 't be that super extra differnt miter saw to justify  850 $ differnce
mfk 700 @ 510 $ ,,........??! i am puzzled ..............................check Bosch Colt @ 100$
a systainer 1 50$ and with drawer @ 115 $ ( it cost no more that 20$ in China ) SERIOUSLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?

Agree on sugar coating. It was previously mentioned that paid reviewers, either by way of tools or cash should be marked as such. That just the right way to do it.

Agree on Kapex. I have a stupidly successful finish carpenter associate that trims out million dollar jobs with his set of Dewalts. The feloow just closed a 1.5 million dollar contract (Yes I'm trying to get in on some of that action!!!) It has been and will continue to be done with much cheaper saws.

Agree on the systainer and many other accessories and parts. Keep in mind though that many of these things are made in Europe, not CHINA. And thank goodness for that, they have managed to keep good manufacturing jobs there because Europeans don't live in the same Walmart world we so aspire to here in NA. (Ducking)

Disagree on the MFK 700, expensive yes but hardly comparable to a Bosch Colt. Take a look at the videos again. The MFK is an order of magnitude more precise and the horizontal routing capability would have made my life easier many times. I'll spring for that one.








Offline Dan Clermont

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I'll weigh in a little.  I don't mind sharing my experiences, good or bad. Nothing wrong with that.  Go to any site or workshop with people working with wood.  You will hear good and bad experiences.
Everyone has an opinion and experiences, and that should be respected.
Why such disrespect for bad experiences here ???

My bad experiences are:
Of course the outrigger for the QF1400
My TS55 has been toed in/out, as far as it can.  The cut is still rough.
My RO150 leaves deep swirls, and festool markets the tool to be a finisher... It's not IMHO.
sandpaper way overpriced :-X
Ok, I'm ready...flame me 8) :-* ;) :D ;D


I am not getting involved in this thread but wanted to respond to the above comment by "underused" regarding the deep swirl marks from the Rotex RO 150

While at Festool school in Hendersen last month we were told the deep swirl marks can be caused by too much suction vy the vac or too much downward pressure on the sander. Back off the suction on your CT vac if you own one, if you don't consider getting a vac with variable suction.

The suction on the vac should be adjusted at minimum and then slowly increased until you hear a change in the Rotex where it is now lifted off the surface slightly.

Too much suction means your sander is getting sucked onto the wood and will also shorten the life of your sandpaper.

Dan Clermont
« Last Edit: May 26, 2008, 09:16 PM by Dan Clermont »
Canadian Festool Dealer and User!!!
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Offline robsw

  • Posts: 11
I am looking to make a database for problems.

.....

I am making my own database that will be Google searchable. It will be on the first page of a google search you can bet on it.

.....

Nickao


This is off topic but this will be interesting to see. Appearing on the first page of a google search is what billions of websites out there are trying to accomplish. Search Engine Optimization is not as easy as it may seem.  If you can pull this off Nick all the power to you.

Rob

Offline Roger Savatteri

  • Posts: 506
    • www.savatteridesigns.com
Boom Arm Improvement


hmmm, I'm going to start afresh with this thought..........


One place where Festool made a subtle, but a very much improved change is to their boom arm for the CT22 and 33.

I bought my boom arm (item 452921) when it first came out in the states,

I have nothing but oodles of compliments after I got it.

My one dismay is that after time it started sagging at the point of where it rotates.

This is the point where the angled swinging tube connects to the stationary tube by way of a

white polyethylene double male insert - it is along this part that it rotates.

(the polyethylene was bending under the pressure)

(I'd throw in a photo, but I'm not at the studio)

In any event, one day about six months ago I ran into the area Festool Rep at a Festool dealer

here in LA......and he was about to retrofit the store demo with a newly fabricated double

male insert made out of machined aluminium. In which the new crop of boom arms were coming with.

I said, hey .........I want that!

Short story, the store boom had to wait another week for theirs.

It has worked fantastically ever since.

I'm mentioning this in the positive light that I know Nick intended for this thread.

.......and to let others who have the "early edition" version, know there's a

fix for the sagging issue.......just make that phone call!

all the best,
Roger Savatteri






« Last Edit: May 26, 2008, 10:12 PM by Roger Savatteri aka monte »
Los Angeles, California

Offline Bob Marino

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It's a shame the thread was shunned from the beginning, with lack of respect for the creator.
     I agree, the paid/sponsored/sugar coaters ;D (or what ever you want to call it) among us should be "marked" for lack of a better term (sorry).
 

  I happen to have had the pleasure of spending a decent amount of time, both in person and on the phone with most of the Festool reviewers and authors and find them, to a man, to be honest, friendly and extremely helpful. I know they spend plenty of time answering emails and phone calls from folks, many right here on the FOG - on their time and their dime. For you to refer to them as "sugar coaters" is not only totally inaccurate, but highly insulting to them and their efforts. Talk about lack of respect!

                               "Respect others, just like Your mummy told you" ;)

  Seems you didn't listen to mummy this time around.
 
 Bob
« Last Edit: May 26, 2008, 10:26 PM by Bob Marino »
Festool  Dealer since 2002; user well before that!
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Offline Dan Uhlir

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  If you keep looking you'll see there is nothing there.
                                          Dan

Offline brandonp

  • Posts: 1
Nicky,

Do you use these tools or do you just  sit around and complain about them. Maybe you are not using them correctly. I would buy another brand If you have so many problems with them. Do you do woodwork as a hobby or for a living?

Brandon

Offline Matthew Schenker

  • Posts: 2619
Everyone,
Generally, I encourage everyone to try and see the point in each other's postings and start out assuming that each person does have a legitimate point to make.  Of course, there have been times when members are clearly not trying to make a point and are just being destructive, but that's not the case here.

I've stated this in another discussion, but criticism is valuable and can enhance both the forum and the company.

Now, I do want to respond to some of the specific points made here...

This forum is not a cheerleading squad.  Criticism has always been welcome here, and one of the biggest discussion we've ever had was an invitation to discuss criticism.  This forum certainly does not suragarcoat issues with the tools.  I would not want to be part of a forum that did all that.

Matthew
FOG Designer and Creator

Offline josephgewing

  • Posts: 116
C12:  I have the model with brushes so this comment may not apply to the new one.
My chief complaint is poor balance and awkwardness when I use the drill in any position except "vertical".  I would not get this drill again but would opt for Festool's more "conventional" drill.  That said, all the accessory chucks are terrific.

The Festool jig saw has a fatal flaw:  I can't see the cut line.  Do any of you have a solution for this?  I'm thinking about selling it.  Biggest strong point is the dust collection
Joe Ewing

Offline Daviddubya

  • Posts: 704
  • Arizona, USA
...The Festool jig saw has a fatal flaw:  I can't see the cut line.  Do any of you have a solution for this?  I'm thinking about selling it.  Biggest strong point is the dust collection

Assuming you are referring to the issue of seeing the line with the jig saw dust collection shroud in place, here is one solution that I mentioned earlier in this thread:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=3005.msg33352#msg33352
David W. Falkenstein
in Cave Creek, AZ, USA

Offline clintholeman

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    • Clint Holeman, Fine Furniture and Cabinets
An easy solution is to cut with the saw under the piece - then you can see exactly where the saw is cutting.  Takes about 5 minutes worth of practice.  Try it - you'll never go back. :)

Offline Dan Clermont

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Yep, what Clintholeman said!

Cut from the bottom so you can see the blade. Might sound awkward but it works! If you don't like it I'll buy your jigsaw  ;)

Dan Clermont
Canadian Festool Dealer and User!!!
https://www.ultimatetools.ca/
604.291.9663

Offline Michael Kellough

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Yep, what Clintholeman said!

Cut from the bottom so you can see the blade. Might sound awkward but it works! If you don't like it I'll buy your jigsaw  ;)

Dan Clermont

It is awkward with a dust hose attached. I wish there was a very flexible lightweight hose for this purpose. Of course dust collection is a little less of an issue working upside down.

Offline josephgewing

  • Posts: 116
Thanks guys, I'll try cutting upside down.  This isn't a joke is it?
 I'm having a hard time visualizing how to do it.
A little how-to hint or two would be great.

Joe
Joe Ewing

Offline clintholeman

  • Posts: 301
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    • Clint Holeman, Fine Furniture and Cabinets
You know, once you get used to it, it isn't awkward at all - the hose isn't an issue, IMO.  I just finished cutting out a bunch, I mean lots! of animal cut outs for our 4 - H group with lots of squiggly features and had no problems at all.  I use my jig saw this way all the time - with the hose on - no problem at all.  Additionally, it is really accurate.


Offline Michael Kellough

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You know, once you get used to it, it isn't awkward at all - the hose isn't an issue, IMO.  I just finished cutting out a bunch, I mean lots! of animal cut outs for our 4 - H group with lots of squiggly features and had no problems at all.  I use my jig saw this way all the time - with the hose on - no problem at all.  Additionally, it is really accurate.


Okay, now that I think about it more, when working upside down the hose is hanging down away from the work instead of snagging on the edge as when working rightside up.

Offline josephgewing

  • Posts: 116
Clint,

H e l p.  How does one jigsaw upside down?  Is an auto mechanic creeper needed to roll one's self underneathe the board?

Joe
Joe Ewing

Offline Steve-CO

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Clint,

H e l p.  How does one jigsaw upside down?  Is an auto mechanic creeper needed to roll one's self underneathe the board?

Joe

You can mount it in a router table....http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5767&filter=jig%20saw

Offline josephgewing

  • Posts: 116
Thanks, the Rockler router table plate makes it do-able.

Darn, I already had a mechanic's creeper------BUT

The rockler approach makes it much safer and will keep the saw dust out of my eyes.

Joe
Joe Ewing

Offline mastercabman

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An easy solution is to cut with the saw under the piece - then you can see exactly where the saw is cutting.  Takes about 5 minutes worth of practice.  Try it - you'll never go back. :)
that's a good idea,witch i have use before,for small pieces.
but what happen when you have to cut a sink out of a counter top?or the piece you are working with,can not be moved? or too big to turn upside down?
don't get me wrong,i like the jig saw,but i miss the dust blower like the bosch,and be able to see the line of cut. 
I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!

Offline tallgrass

  • Posts: 737
nicky????? first off what is flaming?????if some one called me toddy.they better be saying it over the phone... secondly,you better be bringing a great deal of beef to the barbecue, because i will sure be ;) as for the first post ,that slipped by me but i think that is telling. and just for the record i do enjoy looking at ALL of my festools, go ahead make my day. ;D Nick i think his sand box privileges should be revoked. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D it is fun to be back i third grade. ;D

Offline tallgrass

  • Posts: 737
i got it....it have heard it before but did not know.........here is a philosophical question......this is a thread about festool problems not operator problems? ;) ;)
on the serious side should we be talking about design issues, or manufacturing short comings, or sporadic QAQC issues? i have been thinking about this and these issues are different enough to cause a lack of focus. i think focus is important,,,,i do not know the answers but it something to think about. thoughts.

Offline tallgrass

  • Posts: 737
reasonable

Offline Barry Londrigan

  • Posts: 180
  • Newark, Ohio
Oh man am I laughing!  I am seeing humor in this like crazy...well cuz I am like that and gravitate towards laughing and seeing humor...

Nick...ever see Stripes?  That's part of my "found humor"...."Call me by my name?....I'll kill you!"  ...."Lighten up Francis!" 

That's what we all need to do!

And Tallgrass...I will be stealing that line..."better be bringing a lot of beef to the barbecue...cause I sure will"  : )

Yer funny!

Offline SteveBirmingham

  • Posts: 38
Well Nick I liked the original idea with this thread and I too don't like the dust window on the jig saw. If the suction ports had about four times the area then there would most likely be no need for a dust window. By restricting the 130 CFM vac with those little ports either side of the blade makes no sense. When I get time I will modify the base plate. Also the attitude shown on this thread really reminds me off how the US got into the Iraq war. If your not with us you're against us. When will people learn to listen and make constructive replies so that everyone will benefit. The whole US political system revolves around the shoot down and to use subterfuge as your argument instead of facts. This thread has shown a whole lot of that and if you look around the US you can sure see the results of a great country on the downward trend economically, morally and worldly stature.
Keep up the good work Nick
Steve

Offline clintholeman

  • Posts: 301
  • Sonoma County, CA
    • Clint Holeman, Fine Furniture and Cabinets
Matercabman-

Been making stuff do I didn't get back to your post as soon as I might have.  I don't do counter tops, but I know of what you speak.  A lot of the guys out here use small circular saws - battery powered for that kind of work and profiling as well.  Amazing to watch - fast too. 

I've cut some pretty large pieces doing it upside down.  But if you can't move it, it could be problematic, but in my experience, wood working is a series of problems solving events. ;D ;D

And nothing is perfect ;).  but I don't have a band saw and find that the FesTool jig saw works well for me - upside down.  I'll post some pix on my blog later this week showing how it works, if I can get the time.