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Question: How straight is connecting multiple guide rails together?
true ? - 9 (64.3%)
not  true? - 5 (35.7%)
Total Voters: 14

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Author Topic: Connecting guide rails together - How straight  (Read 4218 times)
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ccarrolladams

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Location: Hollywood, California USA
Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 1095


« Reply #30 on: March 15, 2012, 01:38 PM »

Just out of curiosity - is the 2700mm rail sufficient to rip 4x8 plywood?  Or would I need to use the 3000mm?  Ordering online seems like it could be dangerous because they have to ship an (almost) 9' long piece of relatively flimsy aluminum.

Festool packs the longer guide rails, including the 2700mm, in sturdy purpose-built crates. All of the many rails I own were purchased from my primary local dealer. I have seen pallets of stuff from Festool at my dealer waiting being inventoried, but those are not long enough to contain even the 1900mm rails. I have been told that Festool bundles several longer rails for shipment, so the combined crates support one another.

I do own a 27oomm rail, because that is the longest which will effectively fit in the smaller shop room at my condo. Yes, with some practice the 2700mm rail is just barely long enough to rip 8' so long as you use a TS55. The base of the TS75 is enough longer that you need nearly all of the 3000mm rail to make the same cut.

Personally I had to wait until early 2009, when I bought a pick-up truck with a lumber rack, before I could transport long rails. Knowing in my larger condo work room I had space for a 3000mm rail, I bought that the same day as my 2700mm rail.

Previously I had bought the 95" 2424mm "Holy" rail, which could be squeezed into my Grand Am, unfortunately without its Festool crate. We discovered this the day in 2006 I bought it. My dealer saved the crate for me so the following day a good friend with a pick-up could bring the crate to my condo. Bummer that the 95" Holy rail is 11" too short to be useful ripping 8'  There must be a valid reason why the 3000mm rail is not offered with the milled holes to register the holes spaced 32mm. It could be that the LR32 holes are made on a jig borer of milling machine unable to hold a longer rail. These days that should not be a problem. My own Weeke CNC nested routers can handle 5' x 12' sheets. I do not allow any metal working in my wood shop, where those Weeke CNC routers are located because I do not want metal chips there. However, several of my friends in the metal working business use the same model Weeke CNC routers effectively. Compared to modern metal production CNC machines, the Weeke are inexpensive and yet very reliable.
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Jonhilgen

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Location: Charleston, SC (USA)
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Posts: 854



« Reply #31 on: March 15, 2012, 03:46 PM »

I remember reading a thread about trimming the edges of the guide rails on a Kapex to ensure they were square.
Which sounds like a good idea if one owns a Kapex.

Is this a good idea Rick? 
Jon
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Rick Christopherson
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« Reply #32 on: March 15, 2012, 03:55 PM »

It's not a matter of whether you own a Kapex or not, but how accurately you could make the cut. The accuracy of the trimming cut needs to be proportional to ratio between the width of the rail to the length of the rail. The longer the rail, the more critical the accuracy of the cut must be. It is not a matter of making a 30-second cut and calling it good. It's a calibration process that could require a tolerance (depending on personal preference) down to a couple thousandths of a degree.

On the other hand, as long as you used the same accurate saw t cut all of your rail's right and left ends, then it is less critical that they are exact, as long as they are consistent. One error would cancel the other.
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Dan Rush

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Location: Chicago, Il. USA
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Trim carpenter


« Reply #33 on: March 15, 2012, 06:23 PM »

Jon, that may have been me.  I've posted a couple of times about butting the rails for assembly.  It seems to me that any chop saw that is accurate enough for the kind of work we do is accurate enough to square up the ends of the rails.  It may be true that the rails could possibly be out a couple thousands of an inch, but we're not machining parts, we're cutting wood panels, butting them to other wood panels, out of square cabinets, and out of plumb walls.  Heck, I don't know, but I'd bet that my tape measure and corresponding pencil line may be off a few thousands of an inch from mark to mark sometimes.

Sure, if I could, I'd have a long rail for site work, but I don't think I'm giving up any real world accuracy with properly butted short rails.  I'll take mobility this time.

Dan
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harry_

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Location: Middleton, NH
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Posts: 1067



« Reply #34 on: March 15, 2012, 10:25 PM »

I use the back and assume it's parallel. If it isn't we're all in trouble!

+1  Not Worthy
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harry_

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Location: Middleton, NH
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Posts: 1067



« Reply #35 on: March 15, 2012, 10:42 PM »

Just out of curiosity - is the 2700mm rail sufficient to rip 4x8 plywood?  Or would I need to use the 3000mm?  Ordering online seems like it could be dangerous because they have to ship an (almost) 9' long piece of relatively flimsy aluminum.

The 2700 rail is still 10" longer than the sheet, so yes, it can be used for ripping a 4x8 sheet. There is not a lot of leeway in the length, so you do have to carefully position the rail for proper overlap at the beginning and end. If you use the rail in this manner frequently, a simple trick to help in positioning would be to put a small bolt in the underside T-track to act as a position stop against either the leading or trailing edge of the sheet.

I just drew a line on mine with a sharpie  Poke
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Disclaimer: This post is for educational and entertainment purposes only. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. This is not an offer to sell securities. May be too intense for some viewers. No user-serviceable parts inside. Subject to change without notice. One size fits all (very poorly).
williaty

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Location: USA
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Posts: 76


« Reply #36 on: March 15, 2012, 10:44 PM »

You also need to think about the longest diagonal you might want to cut on a sheet of ply, plus someday having the 75 rather than the 55. IIRC, when I calculated it, that meant you needed 2900mm.
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ccarrolladams

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Location: Hollywood, California USA
Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 1095


« Reply #37 on: March 15, 2012, 10:55 PM »

With the longer rails I always clamp the rails. Therefore using a bolt on the underside will not work for me. I have long advocated the line drawn with a Sharpie.

For me the 3000mm rail is not long enough, even with the TS55, because we use so much 4' x 10' material. Normally if all the corners are right angles I use my beam saw, with its 14' capacity.

It is diagonals and miters for which I use a large cutting table and rails. The next longer than the 3000mm rail is 5000mm. To store it safely and conveniently the cutting table is 19' long.
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