IMO the kind of projects you work on would make a big difference in these decisions. Unless of course the top priority is getting the space for the car then you do what you must.

I would keep your bandsaw as that will allow you to make thin rips, resaw and do a host of things no other tool will do. I have a big cabinet saw and I have not even turned it on in 3 years. I am really thinking about selling it as it just takes up space next to wall. The only reason I have not sold it yet is I already own it and I figure -- what if I need it. So far it has not happened and I have make lots of furniture and other projects without even needing to turn it on. You might just try making several projects without it and see how you get along and it it fits your workflow. If the answer is that it works and you do not suffer quality and still enjoy making things without it, then you have your answer.

I had a fully tricked out Unisaw with Bies outfeed table and a 52" extension table.  I sold it when I downsized and moved to a new home with less space.  I am amazed by what can be done with a tracksaw and an MFT3 and have built over 2 dozen cabinets with cope and stick doors, and an entire entertainment/media wall project all with out the table saw.  I won't be replacing it any time soon as the track saw/ MFT table have been so versatile, however, the table saw is sorely missed for its ability to easily plow dadoes and narrow strip ripping was so much more convenient with the table saw. 

So yes, I do miss my table saw, but I can live without it.  If I had to do it again, given the space constraints I had to deal with, I would still do the same thing.

Quote from: HowardH on November 10, 2016, 10:41 AM

I have been re-evaluating my work flow in my home shop and I'm now considering selling my Hammer slider and just going with a MFT3 and TS55. 

If you work with sheet goods a lot, you won't miss it.  I use MFT + TS55 + sliding mitre saw almost exclusively for such work.  The only time I dust off the table saw is for ripping lengths of solid lumber.  A table saw is really the only way to go for this.  If you're making furniture legs, rails and stiles for cupboard doors, solid edging, resawing lumber etc, then you need your table saw.

That's really the only thing I am concerned about... ripping relatively small pieces of solid lumber.  I can always keep the band saw, rip with it and then run it through the Planer to even them up.  I know there's a Festool way of accomplishing this but I can't remember what it is.

I have been re-evaluating my work flow in my home shop and I'm now considering selling my Hammer slider and just going with a MFT3 and TS55.  It will save me a lot of space and maybe even allow me to get two cars into the garage.  If you had a full size table saw and sold it, how was the transition?  Are there things you miss about it?  Did it even matter?  I currently have a MFT 1080 that I only use for assembly so having a second one I think could be really handy, especially if I get the router table accessory. I also have a Carvex that could allow me to get rid of my band saw as well.  I know a lot of you EU guys get by without big iron equipment so am I on the right track considering this change?

Don't do it. The Hammer slider outperforms the TS55 and any rail saw by miles. They both have their place, but nothing compares to accuracy you get from a tablesaw with 10 seconds of setup time and it is 100% repeatable. Same on the bandsaw, the Carvex cannot even remotely be compared to dedicate bandsaw. Festool makes great tools, but don't fall into the trap of thinking they are better than dedicated stationary tools.

Quote from: ScotF on November 10, 2016, 11:17 AM

I would keep your bandsaw as that will allow you to make thin rips, resaw and do a host of things no other tool will do. I have a big cabinet saw and I have not even turned it on in 3 years. 

Not to hijack the tread, but I've been considering buying a decent sized bandsaw as my next tool purchase, but I have no prior experience with bandsaws beyond what I've seen in videos.  Realistically, can a bandsaw replace a table saw for ripping lumber i.e. is it as smooth, fast and straight at ripping as a table saw?  I've heard people complain about 'drift' with bandsaws, and the fence is a lot shorter than a TS fence.

Yes, a well tuned bandsaw with the right blade will yield surprisingly accurate cuts.

Keep it if you can they are a lot faster especially for repeat cuts

Quote from: ScotF on November 10, 2016, 02:00 PM

Quote from: QuailRider43 on November 10, 2016, 11:32 AM

Quote from: ScotF on November 10, 2016, 11:17 AM

I would keep your bandsaw as that will allow you to make thin rips, resaw and do a host of things no other tool will do. I have a big cabinet saw and I have not even turned it on in 3 years. 

Not to hijack the tread, but I've been considering buying a decent sized bandsaw as my next tool purchase, but I have no prior experience with bandsaws beyond what I've seen in videos.  Realistically, can a bandsaw replace a table saw for ripping lumber i.e. is it as smooth, fast and straight at ripping as a table saw?  I've heard people complain about 'drift' with bandsaws, and the fence is a lot shorter than a TS fence.

Yes, a well tuned bandsaw with the right blade will yield surprisingly accurate cuts.

Well......  With a table saw you can rip boards and then glue them into a panel without jointing or planing the freshly ripped edge.  Not so with a bandsaw.  Any bandsaw.  You always have to work the edge you just cut with the bandsaw.  It does not come off the bandsaw with a glue line flat smooth edge you can glue up or present as the finished surface.

I can do this with the right resaw blade.

It sounds like you have all the resources to make this determination for yourself.  Stop using your slider for several months and use your MFT and TS55 exclusively.  You will quickly determine what is right for you and the work you do.

Perhaps I am a little dense but, I just don't get where you are trying to go with your shop.  Less than a week ago you were thinking of upgrading to a Felder K700 asking if it was worth the upgrade.  Now you are thinking of dumping the slider altogether.  IMO, there is no way an MFT and TS55 will come anywhere close to the accuracy, speed and overall function a slider.
Steve

Hi Howard

I did exactly this about 4 or 5 years ago. My relatively small table saw took up the complete space of the garage end of my workshop and it was mainly used for breaking down sheet goods. The TS, guide rails and Parf Dogs provide a far better (and for me more accurate) method of dealing with MDF and ply.

However, I still needed to do sawn rebate work as the saw's scribing line is usually so much better than a routed line. I bought a cheap and cheerful small table saw and only afterwards discovered that the riving knife could not be easily removed for rebating. I subsequently migrated to the CMS-TS which works brilliantly. It is small and easy to move out of the way yet produces excellent results both for rebating and those narrower rips which are often so difficult with a TS and rails.

So, to answer your question - yes I do miss a small aspect of the capability of my old table saw. It has been mainly replaced by the TS and rails but for narrow rips and rebating I still need a small table saw and the CMS-TS is the perfect choice.

Peter

I mostly use a bandsaw and the TS55.  I think something like a Dewalt 745 tucked away somewhere or built into a workbench would see some use.    I thought I'd do most things on the TS55 but I actually have issues with accuracy and squareness. I find I'm going to the bandsaw more often unless it's a big bit of ply.

I don't know anything about the carvex but I'd be surprised if it replaces a bandsaw?

Hi Howard

I did exactly this about 4 or 5 years ago. My relatively small table saw took up the complete space of the garage end of my workshop and it was mainly used for breaking down sheet goods. The TS, guide rails and Parf Dogs provide a far better (and for me more accurate) method of dealing with MDF and ply.

However, I still needed to do sawn rebate work as the saw's scribing line is usually so much better than a routed line. I bought a cheap and cheerful small table saw and only afterwards discovered that the riving knife could not be easily removed for rebating. I subsequently migrated to the CMS-TS which works brilliantly. It is small and easy to move out of the way yet produces excellent results both for rebating and those narrower rips which are often so difficult with a TS and rails.

So, to answer your question - yes I do miss a small aspect of the capability of my old table saw. It has been mainly replaced by the TS and rails but for narrow rips and rebating I still need a small table saw and the CMS-TS is the perfect choice.

Peter

Thanks for chiming in Peter.  I have a fairly substantial investment in Festool and was thinking that going with CMS system could replace a router table and possibly the conventional table saw.  Unfortunately, it's NAINA and who knows when it would become available.  A good portable unit like the SS or Bosch could act as a substitute until the Festool model arrives upon our shores.  I was in the process of starting to build a conventional router table but I became intrigued with the CMS system instead.  Now I'm trying to decide if it's better to get the GE model or since I'm getting a new MFT/3, a VL system.  I'm thinking the VL with the hope that the TS module will make it over here and the MFT/3 can act as a support wide table. 

The Mafell Erika may be just the coolest table saw around.  Holy cow are they expensive!

LOL!  triple that number would be a good
start! 

I don't know, for me I'm going the other way.  3 years with a track saw and while it's great for some things, the table saw is faster for others.  The track saw is fiddly for repetitive cuts (sometimes they are a little off, other bits required to set the rail, clamps sometimes required, more bits required for narrow rips).  I'm really coming to hate the process of digging out the misc. bits for something that should be simple, especially when it's a one off piece.  The table saw makes all this quick and painless and I plow through 8/4 hardwood without effort.  The tracksaw has to work a bit harder and you should really switch to a rip blade. 

I can appreciate that some do fine without the table saw, and I thought I could too, but damnit, I'm putting a table saw in the shop!

This fellow read my mind and eloquently conveyed it.