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Author Topic: Domino thickness settings...grrr  (Read 1319 times)
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Ben H

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Location: Louisville, KY
Member Since: Apr 2012
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« on: April 14, 2012, 01:52 PM »

I have a silly issue that I hope one of you fine folks could help with.  I just picked up my new Domino a couple of weeks ago and I'm having a bit of trouble getting flush (thickness side) joints.  In the middle of a frame and panel  project and the rails are hit and miss, some are decent within a 1/2 mm or so, and others are terrible 2-3 mm offset. 

I'm not trying to set the fence height gauge perfectly center of the stock, honestly I'm using the 20mm set stop.  I was under the impression as long as I reference the same side of all the cuts, they should line up, no?

It's super frustrating when you glue up a square and 3 out of 4 are close to perfect, and the 4th is way out.  I'm trying to be super conscious about keeping the fence flat on the stock when cutting, and the dominos appear to be resting in their mortises  square, but some are just off, and I can't figure out why.

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barnowl

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Location: Massachusetts
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« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2012, 02:03 PM »

Serious answer.

It's technique.

I just posted this in another thread.

1. Turn the Domino on.

2. Position it using one hand of the front knob, and the other hand on the body.

3. While holding the front knob firmly flush with the surface, remove the other hand from the body.

4. Grasp the plug it with your thumb and 2 fingers, and slowly and gently plunge, using only the thumb and two fingers.

 Wink
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best wishes,

Steve

TS-55, assorted rails, Domino, Kapex, OF1400, ETS 125 EQ, RO 125 FEQ, RO 90, PSB 300 EQ, CT-22, CT-26, MFT-3
Ben H

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Location: Louisville, KY
Member Since: Apr 2012
Posts: 8



« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2012, 02:48 PM »

Serious answer.

It's technique.

I just posted this in another thread.

1. Turn the Domino on.

2. Position it using one hand of the front knob, and the other hand on the body.

3. While holding the front knob firmly flush with the surface, remove the other hand from the body.

4. Grasp the plug it with your thumb and 2 fingers, and slowly and gently plunge, using only the thumb and two fingers.

 Wink

I can dig it.  However, it appears my stupidity is going strong today, as I think I just found the answer. 

A note to all future new Domino users, the 20mm stop on your fence is the closest thing to center you have for 3/4 inch stock.  Just keep in mind the stock is a tad bit thinner than what you have the fence set at, meaning you need the base of the Domino hanging off your work surface, not resting on.  I was putting the downward pressure on the fence plate, causing the bit to cut at an angle.  Since the pieces weren't all the same size, sometimes my body was hanging out, sometimes it was laying on the bench.

I think I'll keep the thickness setting on 16mm from now on for 3/4.  It's close enough to center for me, and I can't screw up like this.   Crying
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ccarrolladams

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« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2012, 03:09 PM »

  Welcome!  to The FOG, Ben,

Even for those who had been woodworking for decades, the Domino portable mortising machine represent new physical challenges.

It vibrates differently than any other hand operated tool.

You are correct, that unless you mill your own lumber it is unlikely any will be exactly 20mm thick.

For this reason it is vital that you always reference from the same face or side of the stock. Pencil marks are your friend.

What must not happen is for any part of the Domino machine to touch the bench below the stock. To make sure this does not happen be sure the stock is clamped off the side or end of the bench, so the only place the Domino machine can touch is the stock, and will reference from the marked face.

Trust me, it really helps to be coached in the use of the Domino by an experienced expert, such as Steve Bace and Brian "The Sedge" Sedgeley the trainers at the Festool End User Classes. Exactly how you hold and plunge the machine is a function of your body type. Those trainers have coached a lot of woodworkers of different builds and levels of experience.

My tip is that there is no reason to turn off the suction between plunging. The way the spinning cutter is protected between plunges means you can safely leave the machine on during a session. I have a rolling stand, the size of a medium surgical instrument tray, next to me while using a Domino machine. The to of that stand has a folded piece of material very similar to a surgical instrument drape. That keeps the powered Domino from vibrating off the stand. I hold my Domino in place with pressure on the front handle. I perform the plunge with a delicate grip on the power connection at the end of the motor housing.
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PaulMarcel

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« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2012, 04:37 PM »

I can dig it.  However, it appears my stupidity is going strong today, as I think I just found the answer. 

A note to all future new Domino users, the 20mm stop on your fence is the closest thing to center you have for 3/4 inch stock.  Just keep in mind the stock is a tad bit thinner than what you have the fence set at, meaning you need the base of the Domino hanging off your work surface, not resting on.  I was putting the downward pressure on the fence plate, causing the bit to cut at an angle.  Since the pieces weren't all the same size, sometimes my body was hanging out, sometimes it was laying on the bench.

I think I'll keep the thickness setting on 16mm from now on for 3/4.  It's close enough to center for me, and I can't screw up like this.   Crying

I read your question before my coffee sufficiently affected my metabolism... didn't even think of that and I guarantee I've made that mistake a few times.  I usually don't use a lot of <7/8" stock so normally I'm okay, but then when I switch to 3/4", invariably I'll realize I'm about to make that mistake; usually catch it before plunging (now... cuz I didn't a dozen times).

Glad you solved it.

Actually, something I usually do with 3/4" sheet goods (pre-Domiplate) is to just set the Domino flat on the MFT.  Distance from the bottom surface to the center of the bit is 10mm.  Makes assembly pretty quick.
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Ben H

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Location: Louisville, KY
Member Since: Apr 2012
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« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2012, 05:37 PM »

Thanks guys.  Now I just need to re-cut these peices I've jacked up.... Mad

And Paul, your vids on the Domino are the best on the internet, second to none.
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2012, 06:32 PM »

Ben,

Many of us have made similar oops.  One of the nice things about the dominos is that in many cases you can glue a domino into the mistake mortise and cut it flush and then start over.

I can't wait to see some of your projects.

Peter
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fshanno

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« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2012, 06:35 PM »


3. While holding the front knob firmly flush with the surface, remove the other hand from the body.


Ditto. Put some muscle on the fence handle.  Don't baby it.  There's a lot of stuff going on with the rotating and the oscillating.  I think you need to put more pressure on that handle when using a Domino than you do when plunging a slot mortiser.

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Ben H

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Location: Louisville, KY
Member Since: Apr 2012
Posts: 8



« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2012, 08:15 PM »

Here is a quick drawing of what I was doing wrong, for future fools such as myself, maybe this will help.  The dark brown box is my workbench, the rest I think you can figure out.  3 minutes with Fireworks, but hey, it gets the point across.   Embarassed


* dominosetup.png (60.32 KB, 458x312 - viewed 51 times.)
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denovich

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« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2012, 08:15 PM »

The trick I've learned to smoother cuts with the Domino, is to anchor the hand/arm that is supplying the plunging force to your hip/body.  Moving your body forward to make the plunge gives you so much more control than you have by using your arm unsupported.
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