Litch
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Location: Australia Member Since: May 2011
Posts: 8
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« Reply #30 on: May 23, 2011, 02:45 AM » |
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Just adding a new abrasives poster (PDF) that was designed to simplify the abrasives line. It also includes a brief overview of the various types of pads and their uses.
The image is just a preview, download the attached PDF.
[ ERROR: SPECIFIED ATTACHMENT MISSING ]
Shane when will these new abrasives be available? They are not showing up on the Festool website yet
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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dovedec
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Location: UK Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts: 2
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« Reply #31 on: August 31, 2011, 06:44 PM » |
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Hi i'm new to the forum. Very informative re the abrasives
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gjh119
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 14
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« Reply #32 on: October 07, 2011, 09:53 PM » |
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Thanks for posting the booklet.
I'm interested in purchasing the Rotex90. What do you guys recommend for sanding poplar stiles/rails with mdf panels. Cabinets are also poplar. All new bare wood. Thanks for the help
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SRSemenza
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jun 2007
Posts: 3996
Finger Lakes Region, NY State , USA
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« Reply #33 on: October 08, 2011, 12:32 AM » |
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Thanks for posting the booklet.
I'm interested in purchasing the Rotex90. What do you guys recommend for sanding poplar stiles/rails with mdf panels. Cabinets are also poplar. All new bare wood. Thanks for the help
I generally use Rubin 100 , 150, then switch to Brilliant for 180, 220. Brilliant 320 or 400 between coats of finish. Cristal would be OK too but is pretty aggresive for poplar and MDF. However the new Granat looks promising but I have only tried it in 120 once so far. It seemed very good. Seth
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Seth R. Semenza S. R. Semenza Woodworking
Festool Service 800-554-8741
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NoBreyner
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Location: Dickinson, TX. USA Member Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 100
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« Reply #34 on: October 12, 2011, 05:23 PM » |
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I've only truly used my Ro90 for the first time this morning. I needed a 1/4" off a piece of 4" x 36" pine, and resawn that piece by running half the board on edge on a table saw then flipping end for end to free the piece I needed. I left the rest of the board alone for a long while. I'm setting up a french cleat wall storage and needed to make hangers for various tools around the garage. I took the scrap pine and while strictly using the granat disks that came with my Ro90 took the 40 grit on rotex mode to remove the many tooth marks and the one very noticeable ridge on the cut face of the board. The ridge and tooth marks were all removed using the included 40 grit disk within five minutes. I switched over to random orbital to finish it off and it is ready for use.
Side note: The 1/4" piece I resawn from the 3/4" board also had ridges and a lot of tooth marks. I cleaned the sawn face by using a block plane for 20+ minutes. I am very thankful for the Ro90 and the time it will save me in the long run.
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Ken Nagrod
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Location: New Jersey Member Since: Jul 2010
Posts: 3438
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« Reply #35 on: October 12, 2011, 05:26 PM » |
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I've only truly used my Ro90 for the first time this morning. I needed a 1/4" off a piece of 4" x 36" pine, and resawn that piece by running half the board on edge on a table saw then flipping end for end to free the piece I needed. I left the rest of the board alone for a long while. I'm setting up a french cleat wall storage and needed to make hangers for various tools around the garage. I took the scrap pine and while strictly using the granat disks that came with my Ro90 took the 40 grit on rotex mode to remove the many tooth marks and the one very noticeable ridge on the cut face of the board. The ridge and tooth marks were all removed using the included 40 grit disk within five minutes. I switched over to random orbital to finish it off and it is ready for use.
Side note: The 1/4" piece I resawn from the 3/4" board also had ridges and a lot of tooth marks. I cleaned the sawn face by using a block plane for 20+ minutes. I am very thankful for the Ro90 and the time it will save me in the long run.
What kind of saw and blade are you using that you're getting this? Have you aligned the saw, rip fence and blade, assuming it allows for adjustments?
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« Last Edit: October 12, 2011, 05:29 PM by Ken Nagrod »
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NoBreyner
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Location: Dickinson, TX. USA Member Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 100
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« Reply #36 on: October 13, 2011, 07:11 PM » |
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I've only truly used my Ro90 for the first time this morning. I needed a 1/4" off a piece of 4" x 36" pine, and resawn that piece by running half the board on edge on a table saw then flipping end for end to free the piece I needed. I left the rest of the board alone for a long while. I'm setting up a french cleat wall storage and needed to make hangers for various tools around the garage. I took the scrap pine and while strictly using the granat disks that came with my Ro90 took the 40 grit on rotex mode to remove the many tooth marks and the one very noticeable ridge on the cut face of the board. The ridge and tooth marks were all removed using the included 40 grit disk within five minutes. I switched over to random orbital to finish it off and it is ready for use.
Side note: The 1/4" piece I resawn from the 3/4" board also had ridges and a lot of tooth marks. I cleaned the sawn face by using a block plane for 20+ minutes. I am very thankful for the Ro90 and the time it will save me in the long run.
What kind of saw and blade are you using that you're getting this? Have you aligned the saw, rip fence and blade, assuming it allows for adjustments? The table saw is a Ryobi BTS16. I changed out the stock blade with a Diablo 10 in. x 40 Tooth Carbide Circular Saw Blade number D1040. I do have a dial indicator, but I really need to get a stable base for it as the one I made rocked a little in both directions which probably made the problem worse. I will realign everything this weekend with a proper base so there is absolutely NO wiggle.
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Scott B.
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: Vermont, USA Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 803
Paint contractor and freelance writer.
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« Reply #37 on: November 24, 2011, 11:25 AM » |
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For those of you who do finishes, we have been using the new Festool Granat abrasives on all of our sanders, as well as the soft hand sanding pads, for both material removal and building of new finishes. It is very good.
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USNavyChiefRet
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
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« Reply #38 on: December 01, 2011, 12:36 AM » |
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I'm looking for Platin 2000-4000 grit. I saw a video where they guy demoing the RO125 said he used one of these grits on his bandsaw table and it made it shine like a mirror. Is that true? and if so where can I can these without having to purchase the entire pack? I have a Jet 14" DXPRO bandsaw, 10" ProShop table saw, and long bed jointer that I want to try this on. I don't want to scratch the faces of these all up. I have a Festool ETS 125 RO sander and it is great. It came with a 2000 grit pad but I think that's a little too much maybe 3000-4000 grit would work better. I also have the Festool DX 93 detail sander and it did a fantastic job on my bathroom cabinets, getting into hard to sand areas the ETS 125 couldn't. I also purchased the TS-55 saw and have used it some and it makes a really great cut on oak veneer plywood. I was really impressed. I have a lot of abrasives for the ETS 125 and DX 93 (80-320 grit) but would love to get some of the really fine (2000-4000). Anybody got an idea?
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Garry
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado Member Since: Sep 2007
Posts: 373
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« Reply #39 on: December 01, 2011, 01:01 AM » |
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I'm looking for Platin 2000-4000 grit. I saw a video where they guy demoing the RO125 said he used one of these grits on his bandsaw table and it made it shine like a mirror. Is that true? and if so where can I can these without having to purchase the entire pack? I have a Jet 14" DXPRO bandsaw, 10" ProShop table saw, and long bed jointer that I want to try this on. I don't want to scratch the faces of these all up. I have a Festool ETS 125 RO sander and it is great. It came with a 2000 grit pad but I think that's a little too much maybe 3000-4000 grit would work better. I also have the Festool DX 93 detail sander and it did a fantastic job on my bathroom cabinets, getting into hard to sand areas the ETS 125 couldn't. I also purchased the TS-55 saw and have used it some and it makes a really great cut on oak veneer plywood. I was really impressed. I have a lot of abrasives for the ETS 125 and DX 93 (80-320 grit) but would love to get some of the really fine (2000-4000). Anybody got an idea?
Chief, first, let me thank you for your longevity in service of our country! Next, I'm not sure if he still does it, but Bob Marino ( www.bobmarinosbestttools.com ) used to be willing to sell abrasives in packs of 5 instead of 50 (he'd break up a 50 pack and sell it for .1x). you might check with him.
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USNavyChiefRet
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
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« Reply #40 on: December 01, 2011, 11:01 PM » |
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Thanks Garry, I'll have to check with him. I enjoyed my career in the Navy having sailed all over the western pacific. Now I just enjoy staying in one place. I'm kind of midway between the Pacific and Atlantic (I wanted to get as far from the oceans as I could LOL! Minnesota). I enjoy my 3 granddaughters an awful lot having not been around much when my 3 girls were growing up. It seemed I was always away. I do appreciate your "thanks" it means an awful lot to a retired sailor.
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PC
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Location: Stonington, CT USA Member Since: May 2012
Posts: 1
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« Reply #41 on: May 09, 2012, 10:58 AM » |
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Looking for advice on the best Festool abrasive for one particular use of my ETS 150/3EQ sander. In my pre-Festool days I had good success with 3M finishing film discs (P600) while preparing an enamel surface for a high gloss finish. Clogging is my main obstacle because I work in a marine environment where temperature and humidity often do not allow undercoats to cure sufficiently. Any help would be much appreciated.
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6189
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #42 on: May 09, 2012, 12:27 PM » |
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Looking for advice on the best Festool abrasive for one particular use of my ETS 150/3EQ sander. In my pre-Festool days I had good success with 3M finishing film discs (P600) while preparing an enamel surface for a high gloss finish. Clogging is my main obstacle because I work in a marine environment where temperature and humidity often do not allow undercoats to cure sufficiently. Any help would be much appreciated.
I would thing Granat is the best choice here.
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imaginarynumber
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Location: London-UK Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 43
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« Reply #43 on: October 25, 2012, 03:23 PM » |
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Looking for advice on the best Festool abrasive for one particular use of my ETS 150/3EQ sander. In my pre-Festool days I had good success with 3M finishing film discs (P600) while preparing an enamel surface for a high gloss finish. Clogging is my main obstacle because I work in a marine environment where temperature and humidity often do not allow undercoats to cure sufficiently. Any help would be much appreciated.
I would thing Granat is the best choice here. Granat is amazing, clogging however may be reduced by using an interface pad
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Gabeloooooo
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Location: Canada Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 26
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« Reply #44 on: December 09, 2012, 10:27 AM » |
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My personnal findings using the RO150FEQ on wood only: - For wood, nothing beats rubin, but they don't last all that long, so buy plenty.
- I find Rubin to remove a bit faster than Rubin 2 on bare wood, but maybe that's because I'm changing Rubin's often whereas I keep the Rubin2's longer on the pad.
- Brilliant2 all the way for last (before finish) passes, with a softer pad it leaves no pig tails, very forgiving finisher!
- Granat nowhere near as good as rubin for bare wood, but then it is not meant for bare wood, so that's ok

- I find that even in disc mode on the rotex, Cristal is not as hardcore as I'd like it to be, I find I often fall back to rubin for aggresive removal.
- The pads make a WORLD of difference depending on the application: buy them all. Now.
Keep in my I'm pretty noob, so these comments might be worth less than nothing 
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 961
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« Reply #45 on: December 09, 2012, 12:19 PM » |
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When I bought my Rotex 90 there was a small pack of sanding disks in the box. There were a number of Granat from 80-220 grit which I have found to be marvellous (can't say 'brilliant' in this context) for wood. Granat lasts for ever and leaves an excellent finish. I suspect that the pdf sheet about abrasives is probably out of date or (horror) they are stopping Granat.
I am hoping to get some Rubin 2 soon. I have Brilliant 2 and the original Rubin and will probably get some more Granat and Saphir. When I have everything together I will do a video and try to give some opinion of the different options for woodworkers. I have been lucky enough to pick up some tips on sanding at one of the shows from the Festool UK chief trainer - he was very helpful.
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 2995
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« Reply #46 on: December 09, 2012, 02:05 PM » |
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i love my ro 150 and 90. i have rubin (and a few rubin 2), brilliant, and granat. granate is great. its only just out a few months . i find it out lasts and out performs rubin and brillliant on everything i have used it on. as my stocks of rubin and brilliant are used up i am replacing with granate
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now ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130 wish list of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty." - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Scott B.
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: Vermont, USA Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 803
Paint contractor and freelance writer.
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« Reply #47 on: December 09, 2012, 02:08 PM » |
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I love Granat on everything 60g and up, all the way up. Below 60 for super hard core removal on gnarly surfaces the backing isn't quite as beefy as it is on the red flavor. Granat mileage and performance overall is remarkable on both raw and finished material.
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Gabeloooooo
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Location: Canada Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 26
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« Reply #48 on: December 09, 2012, 02:48 PM » |
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There were a number of Granat from 80-220 grit which I have found to be marvellous (can't say 'brilliant' in this context) for wood. Granat lasts for ever and leaves an excellent finish.
Guess I'll have to give Granat another chance, I never liked it on wood under 120. I usually do 80-rubin, 120-rubin/or/granta, then finish with Brilliant on desired grit.
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