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Author Topic: Guide rail splinter guard.  (Read 2869 times)
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Peter HS

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Crawley, West Sussex, UK.


« on: June 19, 2012, 03:31 PM »

I've kept my guide rails in a well ventilated place where the temperature is mostly consistent. In other words, no serious extremes of temperature or humidity. To be honest I've not used my Festools for about a year. I was getting ready to prep and check the tools for a project I'm about to start and I noticed the splinter guard has peeled away from the guide rail most noticeably at the end of the rails only and then about 3-4 inches or so. I suspect I need to replace it but some of questions:

1. Should I replace the splinter guard? I reckon that the material I'm cutting underneath it would support it so it doesn't move around?

2. If I replace the tape is there a recommended cleaning agent-cum-solvent I should use to remove any crud before fitting a new one?

2. When I first used my rails I ran my TS55 along it to trim the splinter guard. What I can't remember doing is whether it's okay to run the blade without material under the splinter guard? Or should I use a bit of scrap under it before trimming.

Thanks.

Peter.
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tazprime38

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« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2012, 03:58 PM »

Peter use CT-1 Multi Solve to remove glue, double sided tape and residue.

CT-1 Ltd

Its available from Isaac Lord in High Wycombe and is about £9 or £10.
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2012, 05:01 PM »

Acetone and lacquer thinner also work to remove the residue.

Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day.  The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy.  They also were in the minority.  Their complaint:  They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in.  I guess the truth hurts.
SRSemenza
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« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2012, 06:39 PM »

Acetone and lacquer thinner also work to remove the residue.

Peter

Acetone is what the packaging recomends in the US. I just did a replacement and the acetone worked well. A razor blade scraper is also useful.


I am thinking that you can just find somethng to restick the loose ends ( double sided tape etc.). 



Seth
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builderbob

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« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2012, 08:38 PM »

Acetone and lacquer thinner also work to remove the residue.

Peter

Acetone is what the packaging recomends in the US. I just did a replacement and the acetone worked well. A razor blade scraper is also useful.


I am thinking that you can just find somethng to restick the loose ends ( double sided tape etc.). 



Seth

What about using FastCap SpeedTape...that is some strong double sided tape!

Bob
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fifo28

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« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2012, 07:54 AM »

The same thing has happened to me.  Store the rails with the tape up and you prevent the problem.
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davee

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« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2012, 08:01 AM »

I've used a couple drops of super glue to hold the ends down after they peeled.  I don't think you need to replace the splinter guard - you'd have to do it too often if you did every time it peeled.  It is ok to cut the splinter guard without anything below. 
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woodie

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« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2012, 11:30 AM »

The adhesive on Festool's clear splinter guard definitely needs to be addressed. I replaced the splinter guard on the guide rail on my MFT two months ago. I followed the recommended procedure; remove adhesive with acetone, install the strip and apply uniform pressure until adhesive reaches good bond strength. I left the edge of that guide rail under three sheets of plywood for two days. It's now peeling on the edges.

Just checked my FS3000/2 and 10+" of splinter guard has peeled off both ends (factory applied). FS1900/2 same story. There's $78 worth of splinter guard I'll have used...  I'm really particular about my tools, including storage of, so this isn't the problem.

Someone mentioned using Makita splinter guards as they seem to hold up better. They're black instead of clear but I don't generally look through my splinter guard to register its position. I wonder if they're the correct thickness though?

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Alan m

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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2012, 12:13 PM »

iv heard about the makita strip and will try it when i change mine.
the makita and festool rails are the same . probably coming from the same place
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
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of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools


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Steve F

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« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2012, 02:02 PM »

I have no idea whether it was just luck or if this really works, but I have no problem after making sure to clean any acetone residue off the rails before applying the new strips.  I used DNA, but only because I didn't have any isopropyl alcohol around.

I have no technical basis for this, but believe that, after it evaporates, the acetone must leave some sort of residue that interferes with adhesives.  I use acetone all the time to remove worn out PSA sandpaper from a granite plate that I use for sharpening hand tools, but find that the fresh paper adheres much better if I clean the granite surface with alcohol after using the acetone.  May be an unnecessary step, but seems to work.

Steve
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Peter HS

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Crawley, West Sussex, UK.


« Reply #10 on: June 26, 2012, 06:18 AM »

Many thanks guys for the excellent advice you've offered. The "damage" to the splinter guard is more than I thought. It's partially detached from the middle of my longest rail and I've source a local stockist who has rolls of five meters (?) in stock. Time to go and buy some, methinks.
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Reiska

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« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2012, 07:28 AM »

I use Xylene for glue removal from all surfaces that can take the abuse - just a drop on a cloth and wipe - off comes the glue.
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rnt80

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« Reply #12 on: June 26, 2012, 09:18 AM »

I know we're probably beating a dead horse with this one but I agree that Festool needs to change the adhesive used.  When I changed over to the clear strips I thoroughly cleaned all my rails (that included scraping with a razor blade and a final swipe with DNA) and at this point they are all peeling - I have a 3000, two 1080's, and a 1400.  I thought it might have to do with the extreme heat down here but another forum member that lives 20 minutes from me hasn't had this issue.  I haven't added up the cost but I know it's enough for me to have an expectation that the product should perform as described.
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Russell Tribby
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lym

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« Reply #13 on: July 04, 2012, 05:38 AM »

i am using double sided tape that is used to hold shojii paper to the wooden frames.  so far, it seems to be holding up.  it is really thin so you don't have to worry about using it in only some areas.
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