Not sure how useful our replies will be since this is totally dependent on what you do.

I build furniture and use the router for joinery and edge treatments.  95 percent of my work is on the OF1400.  I occasionally use the OF1010 when I need to get into a smaller place or when I need two routers with different setups for a process.

If I were looking to spend $$ I would get the 1400 and lots of accessories (MFS, different bases, copy rings, bits, etc).

I have the 2200, but frankly it hardly ever comes out of the systainer.  I sold my MFK700.

If you do solid surface or lots of countertops, those two might be just what you need...

Depends on what you do.

For Festool either the OF 1400 and the OF 1010 or the OF 1400 and the OF 2200.

I just do not like the mfk at all and other brands routers of that size work for me.

I don't do enough edge banding at this time to justify the MFT700. 

I was originally thinking the 1100 and 2200.  Although I don't do solid surface work, the 2200 appears to be a very nice platform...if you can get used to it's size.  I don't really want to buy a shaper, so I thought the 2200 would be a nice compromise to handle those projects where you'd normally want a shaper (or router table).

i have the 1010 and the 2200

i use the 1010 for roundover bits etc and the 2200 for big cutters/worktops

Dido on the 1010 and 2200.  I have the 1010 and really like how easy it is to use because most jobs just require a small bit. The 2200 is just a work of art, its what all other routers aspire to be, the biggest baddest and can take on whatever you want to throw at it.

As far as I am aware the IRS hasn't specified a limit of two (2) routers (yet... ) -- go for three (3). 

I own a sign company. I use the 1010. I like it because it is nimble, lightweight, and powerful to do what I need. I use it for roundovers on MDO, and for carving out letters from cedar. My second router is a Milwaukee that is used in the router table. If I were to buy two Festool routers, I'd buy two 1010s. Then I wouldn't have to change out the bits as often when I move from job to job.

So, yes, it all depends on what you want to use a router for...

I have an OF1400 for general, handheld use, a Bosch Colt as a small trim router, and a Triton as a router table router. If I were to do it over again, I'd get an OF1010 as a trim router and for light duty use, and an OF2200 for heavyweight stuff. 

Regards,

Dan.

I have the OF1400, the OF2200 and the MFK700.  Of the 3 , the 1400 gets the most use and the OF2200 the least.  I have a router table with a Porter Cable 7518 mounted in it with a lift so I don't have a lot of use for the OF2200.  Looking back, I would have not purchased the OF2200, but I'm sure there will be times down the line that I will be glad I have it.  The MFK is a great little router to have but again not really needed.  I would purchase the OF1400 as it is a great compromise between size, flexibility and power and then the 2nd one really depends on what you will be doing.

Well, I have semi-dissed the 2200 a few times around here and said that it doesn't get used in my shop enough to justify the space it takes up.  I've been thinking about selling it to partially fund a Domino XL.

Well, today I tried it on one of the big challenges in chair making.  Back legs of chairs usually have a S-curve to provide proper lumbar support and to look cool.  But they also have joinery areas that need to be dead square and in exactly the right place.  This usually means using a pattern to mark out the shape and then a rough trim on the bandsaw followed by lots of handtool work to get it exactly right.  The ideal would be to attach the pattern to the trimmed workpiece and run a flush trim bit to duplicate the pattern on the workpiece.

That's not easy.  My chair legs are 2 inches thick in some places and 2 inches is a wide router cut.  I tried it with my 1400 and there was major chatter.  You can get past some of the chatter by working off different sides of the workpiece so that the bit direction will match the wood grain, but there's lots of potential for error there.

I remembered that shapers generally were smooth enough to handle it in one direction and then I remembered I had a "handheld shaper" in the OF2200.  I had to jury rig an offcut to keep the OF2200 stable and square and there were a few places where I couldn't use the 'below the deck' dust shroud, so it was a little messy.  But the bottom line is that I did in about 20 minutes what I used to spend on couple of days on.

OK, the OF2200 is staying - now I gotta figure out how to afford the big Domino.

I have all of FT's and PC's routers - most are 2 of each.  IF I had to get just two FT routers:
2200 and 1400 - general purpose
2200 and 700 -- if you do a lot of trim

Jesse:
How long was the router bit you used to cut those 2" legs or did you mill one side and then flip it and mill the other side?
Tim

The bit is a Freud pattern bit with 2 inches cutting height.  I cut it in one pass.  Somehow, when I flip it, I always have some cleanup to do.  My goal (not completely met this time) is one pass shaping with no cleanup.

I do flip when I have tricky grain on the edge and I want to reverse the direction to avoid tearout.  With the power and the stability of the 2200 I didn't have any tearout at all.

im not sure of the historic meaning of jury rig but usually people use that phrase when they had to improvise or bodge a set up to make it wonk like the way you would knock up a few supports if you had to hold up something while fitting it. anythi9ng at all will do as long aas its safe and strong

Thanks Jesse and Alan for your explanations.  Sounds like clever improvising...
Regards, Michael