Author Topic: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS  (Read 1128 times)

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Offline Howieg

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MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« on: June 03, 2018, 10:33 AM »
I need the size of the MDF to replace my old one.  I’m looking for booth thickness as well as length and width if anyone can help I would appreciate it.  Also the best way to make the 20mm holes in the new piece of MDF

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Offline Bob Marino

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Re: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2018, 11:50 AM »

  From the catalog - 45 9/16" x 30 7/16".
 I will check but looks to be 3/4" thick.

 Others can chime in but either routing or drilling the 20mm holes and getting the spacing exactly right is not going to be an easy process. Doable, but not easy.
Festool  Dealer since 2002; user well before that!
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Offline clark_fork

  • Posts: 272
Re: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2018, 03:28 PM »
I need the size of the MDF to replace my old one.  I’m looking for booth thickness as well as length and width if anyone can help I would appreciate it.  Also the best way to make the 20mm holes in the new piece of MDF

You might consider purchasing the Parf Guide System ( See various posts on this tool)

My take.....

Why purchase the Parf Guide System? My sainted grandmother taught me to observe a healthy skepticism when making any purchase.  In the face of something new, she would exclaim “What’s the good of it? Indeed when all is said and done, what good can this tool be if already there is a multifunction table in use.  The answer is simple. Over the short time, I have had my Parf Guide System; I am surprised at the amount of use to which it has been put. My conclusion paraphrases, the beleaguered Duchess of Windsor… “You can’t be too rich, too thin or have too many MFT’s.

The world of carpentry, woodworking, cabinetry and furniture making is in the state of constant evolution.  In the last six years, I have completely changed my methodology, techniques, skills and knowledge. After so many years of cutting and boring mortise and tenons, I rely on my Domino 500 and have cut table and cabinet making time by at least 50%. My table saw gathers dust as most cutting is now done by track saw and rail. I am more precise easily adapting to plans that call for metric measurements. However, the greatest change in all my processes comes from the use of the MFT. I not only use my table for cutting. It serves me well for clamping, assembling and for creating temporary jigs. Recently I created a low table for finishing work. It has a MFT top as well as a thin sacrificial top, I mount when completing a messy finishing job.

The MFT has one notable attribute and that is it is meant to be cut. A sort of planned obsolescence is built into the concept. In the planning of a table, it is important to remember that the table can be turned top for bottom and end for end thus extending the life of the MFT.

The MFT is aptly named. It is indeed a multifunction tool. While considering the purchase of the Parf Guide, It might be well to review the many capabilities of the MFT. An excellent summary of these many capabilities is found in Jerry Work’s 52 page publication on the Internet... “Getting the most from the MFT, multifunction table”.  https://service.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Getting_the_most_from_the_MFT_multifunction_table.pdf

The introduction of the Parf Guide System is a perfect example of the evolutionary aspects of progress in all that we do in wood and similar products. The methodology harks back to the Greek philosopher Pythagoras (570 BC-495 BC). Pythagoras is reported to be the first to call himself a philosopher (lover of wisdom) setting an example to respect tradition and wisdom. The opportunity to learn something new can be counted as one reason for taking on the Parf Guide System. It is said that “when you are green, you grow and when you are ripe, you rot.” Learning new things always makes life more interesting. Recently Peter Parfitt, the inventor of the Parf Guide System introduced a new concept in MFT layout which he refers as the Isometric layout, an elegant means of cutting at 30° and 60°. See the “New Brit” workshop for details. This offers an easy way to make hexagons or triangles. I look forward to learning this new process and making yet another MFT top.

While the emphasis on the MFT is in rail and track saw cutting, I am more than impressed with the clamping and assembly options. The use of the PGS (Parf Guide System) is not confined to just making table tops. Consider the need for a stop edge in the process of assembly or perhaps in creating a jig for repeating cuts. Taking a length of wood, the PGS may be used to layout holes precisely to accept tall dogs. Peter Parfitt provides shorter length stops he calls “Parf Hats” These can be easily made by taking a length of wood and boring a row of holes with the PGS and cutting each “Parf Hat” to length.

The newly introduced isometric layout is a convincing argument for purchasing the PGS. It is available nowhere else. The astonishing revelation of this new isometric layout methodology is that it may be used to impose the isometric layout on an existing MFT. By careful planning, two vee shaped rows may be added to an existing table to meet most 30° and 60° cuts. See the initial layout scheme in the introductory video

I have a MFT I use mostly for assembly work squaring cabinets and bookcases. I make good use of the PGS making sacrificial tops. These need fewer holes if they are used to protect the top being used for finishing or for limited cutting. In summary, I found by following the excellent videos on both this site as well as on the New Brit Workshop site, both easy to follow and very quickly learned the process of creating a top. The following is list of tips that may be helpful.

1.   Planning is paramount. Think out the layout and the number of holes that are really required for the job at hand. Remember that you can create a top in two stages. You can layout, bore and then trim the edges to final size.
2.   A removable chuck makes the job of resetting the guide go more smoothly
3.   Parts… There is a small collection of parts such as Parf dogs, pins drill, bit and drill guide. I drilled out a block of wood and keep the parts at hand in my wood block. Otherwise a tin pan serves to keep the parts at hand and prevents them rolling away.
4.   The hole drilling is significantly improved by vacuuming the chips. I made a shoe to accept by vacuum hose. Peter Parfitt offers a simple attachment to accept the hose.
5.   Peter reminds in his video but it is important to “OIL THE DRILL BIT?” an important step to protect both the bit and bit shaft. Use real oil, rather than synthetic lubricant.
6.   Reduce chip out by drilling onto a firm sacrificial surface.
7.   As time has passed, more users are finding that sealing the table top is a worthy exercise and most report, they apply the sealer before cutting.
8.   I have found that clamping the rules in place is more essential than I originally thought.
9.   Don’t’ get caught short, invest in a second drill. I expect the 20MM bit to hold up but since I was an early adopter, I have both the original bit as well as the new improved bit,
10.   Lastly, and this is remarkable in this day and age, Peter Parfitt actually responds to e-mail questions.  He has reported that he received many e-mails but he will most likely respond to issues. I follow the Festool Owners Group (FOG) and this forum is an important source of advice and assistance.

What’s the good of it, my grandmother would have asked. I have found much good with my PGS. The Parf Guide System has been a worthy and frequently used tool in my shop work. My next project is a bench top MFT with a Moxon vise and this will be yet another MFT in my shop.
Clark Fork

"A lot of people are afraid of heights. Not me, I'm afraid of widths."  Stephen Wright

"straight, smooth and square" Mr. Russell, first day high school shop class-1954

" What's the good of it?" My Sainted Grandmother

"You can't be too rich, too thin or have too many clamps." After my introduction to pocket joinery and now the MFT work process

"Don't make something unless it is both made necessary and useful; but if it is both necessary and useful,
don't hesitate to make it beautiful." -- Shaker dictum

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 4949
Re: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2018, 04:09 PM »
“What’s the good of it?"

Absolutely love it... [not worthy]...it also reminds me of my Irish grandmother, who was a 2nd generation US citizen. That generation and the one before really knew what tough times were.

Offline ElectricFeet

  • Posts: 69
Re: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2018, 04:50 PM »
I need the size of the MDF to replace my old one.
Measurements are 718x1102x20mm, as shown here: https://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-hdf-valchromat-top-for-parf-dogs-102537

Details on the parf guide system here: https://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-parf-guide-system-102278

Consider also making an isometric pattern, rather than a grid pattern. See @Peter Parfitt's video here: It gives you a larger square grid or a smaller 63/30-degree grid all in the same table. Absolutely brilliant idea.

Offline ElectricFeet

  • Posts: 69
Re: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2018, 05:08 PM »
Also the best way to make the 20mm holes in the new piece of MDF
Forgot to add my input to this part. I just made 4 holes in my new table, which doesn't make me an expert, but I picked up a few tips on the way:
- Peter's guide is the gold standard for a full table, but you can work out the positioning yourself with a bit of geometry. Personally I'd invest in it if I were doing a full table, but not the few holes I needed.
- In my view, drilling straight vertically is something that you either have as a life skill or you don't. I'm lucky that I can pretty much get by. To get the holes straight, I drilled a 2mm pilot hole half-way down from one side and then all the way down from the other. I checked for 90degrees and all was fine.
- That was all that I needed to then use the Festool ZOBO Forstner bits, which have a 3mm drill in the middle that followed the path made by the 2mm hole: again, first from one side, then the other. The great thing about forstner bits, is that you can see if you're going straight, by the way the material is being shaved off.

The holes came out absolutely great. But as I say, I'd go for the parf guide  system if I were doing a whole table. Basic probability theory tells me that I'd never get a whole table's worth of holes straight!

Offline jobsworth

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Re: MFT3 MDF DIMENSIONS
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2018, 08:18 PM »
Oh snap others already answered it. Ditto on the Parf guide system
« Last Edit: June 03, 2018, 08:23 PM by jobsworth »