mike metz
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« on: April 26, 2012, 07:45 PM » |
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I'm looking to get a new drill. I have decided on the c15 or the t15. i would like to get input from user of both on what you like / dislike about each. it will mainly be used for shop use, i already have a cxs and that is my go to for mainly everything, but its time for something with more power and bigger capacity
thanks for your input
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2012, 07:47 PM » |
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Do you have a budget?
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GPowers
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« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2012, 07:50 PM » |
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I also have the CXS and love it. Bought the new C15, and all the chucks, when it came out. Lots of power but heaver then the CXS. Waiting for the new t15 impact driver later this fall. So my $0.02 is buy the C15 not or wait for the new T15 this fall.
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« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 07:51 PM by GPowers »
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Greg Powers Size:XL
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mike metz
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« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2012, 07:50 PM » |
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Everyone has a budget these days, but i have set aside $700 for this
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GhostFist
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2012, 07:52 PM » |
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why not go t-18, then you re unstopable
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Kev
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 08:46 PM » |
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why not go t-18, then you re unstopable
That's thee go! I've got CXS, C15, Ti15 and all of the chucks ... I would also get the T18, but as we get Protool in Oz - I'm waiting on the updated PDC 18-4 (the Protool variant of the T18 with a 4 speed gearbox and rugged exterior). I had the t18 for a while - awesome power ... but I decided to reconfigure my drill range ... Then the Protool update snuck out, putting me in this holding pattern  To me the T15 v's C15 question is answered by determining whether you predominantly drill and screw vertically or horizontally. Try both in your hand are prepare to drill into a wall, then down into the floor ... You"'ll see the T's are naturally balanced and the C's are nose heavy and tend to dip, putting more weight on your wrist if you're trying to hold it level.
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« Last Edit: April 27, 2012, 12:44 AM by Kev »
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hockey_magnet
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2012, 08:47 PM » |
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I'm with GhostFist on this one. I bought the C15 and love it but since you already have the CXS (I didn't and just wanted one drill), go for the T18 since you will only need it for the really heavy duty stuff
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2012, 12:24 AM » |
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Since your budget is $700, I'd recommend the T 18 as well. Plenty of power and the weight is great (at least to me). The PDC 18-4 does go to 3800 RPM's, but I feel it's a big weight difference and bigger, compared to the T 18. That's only my personal opinion.
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Steve R
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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2012, 12:34 AM » |
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Sorry, you're not getting a good answer to the difference between the "T" and "C" I would like to hear the answer too.
have more than one drill and it would be helpful to know how the T and C compare.
Cheer, Steve
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"A Festool is a tool, Marian; much better than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A Festool is still only as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that.” ~ Ode to Shane (the movie)
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2012, 12:41 AM » |
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Sorry, you're not getting a good answer to the difference between the "T" and "C" I would like to hear the answer too.
have more than one drill and it would be helpful to know how the T and C compare.
Cheer, Steve
That's a personal preference that you have to go into a store and get a feel for. Some people like the C handle drills and others don't opting for the T handle. Also, there is no C 18.
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GhostFist
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 12:42 AM » |
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As far as T vs C goes. I had a CXS first and LOVED, and still do, the ergonomics. Waited for the C15's to come out but found the feel to be much different. For me the C series seemed to be uncomfortable, keep in mind I have a crush injury on my right hand so that affects how I grip. For people who haven't smashed their fingers off I'm sure its fine. as far as the T series of drills go. I currently own a T-15 and LOVE it. the ergonomics and balance on this drill are very good better than other drills on the market IMO. So I'm all for the T's.
There's a bunch on here who swear by C series but I have to maintain my suggestion for a T-18.
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Steve R
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 12:53 AM » |
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Thanks for the feedback. But here is what is not clear to new buyers.... a "T" or "C" 12... is it only the handle difference or are there other differences?
Cheers, Steve
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"A Festool is a tool, Marian; much better than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A Festool is still only as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that.” ~ Ode to Shane (the movie)
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2012, 01:05 AM » |
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The difference is that the battery that comes with the C 12 is a 10.8 volt / 1.5 Ah LiIon battery and the T 12 comes with the 10.8 volt / 3.0 Ah LiIon battery. Translates to greater run time with the T 12 at the cost of a larger size and heavier battery. Both batteries work with both drills, if you were wondering about a dealer swap of some sort.
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Kev
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« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2012, 01:15 AM » |
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Sorry, you're not getting a good answer to the difference between the "T" and "C" I would like to hear the answer too.
have more than one drill and it would be helpful to know how the T and C compare.
Cheer, Steve
Don't know what you're expecting here. Technical specifications are on the Festool website. Same battery, similar technology - different shape and ~100 grams more plastic on the C15. Balance grip, fit are going to be highly personal. Unless you're very confident or already have a similar model, I think you really need to put these drills in your hand. The NA business offers 30 days to change your mind. So there's a decision you don't need to rush! The only real decision anyone needs to make is whether they want a Festool drill or not - the remainder of the selection process can be very hands on. Bottom line - nobody else can be certain you'll like the taste of chocolate.
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2012, 01:32 AM » |
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here is what is not clear to new buyers.... a "T" or "C" 12... is it only the handle difference or are there other differences? I don't know of any difference in a current model T 15 or C 15 other than the configuration. The difference in the configuration to me is somewhat significant... Most people in the 'States are used to T-drills so that's the style they like. The C-drill configuration is a bit unusual here. The only ones that I recall from the past were Panasonics and they were really good drills. The main difference in my opinion is when you want to push on what the drill is turning. Whether using a drill bit or a driver bit, sometimes you have to push pretty hard on the end of the bit. If you are using a T-drill and you want to push hard on that bit, you'd better use two hands - one on the trigger and one behind the motor so that the one behind the motor is pushing down the axis of the bit. With a C-drill, using only one hand, you can pull the trigger and push down the axis of rotation. There is another consideration and I never thought about it until it was pointed out by someone on this Forum. When you hold a T-drill, your hand is farther forward and when you hold a C-drill, it is somewhat farther back but not much at all. This could conceivably add to the total length of the drill but I don't really think it's a consideration. I have both a C 15 and T 18 and just checked that theory. I don't see a significant difference. I hope that helps. I can go into more detail and use visual support if needed. Tom EDIT before posting: Kev posted this while I was writing... you really need to put these drills in your hand That might well be your best advice.
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« Last Edit: April 27, 2012, 01:39 AM by Tom Bellemare »
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Steve R
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« Reply #15 on: April 27, 2012, 01:51 AM » |
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here is what is not clear to new buyers.... a "T" or "C" 12... is it only the handle difference or are there other differences? I don't know of any difference in a current model T 15 or C 15 other than the configuration. The difference in the configuration to me is somewhat significant... Most people in the 'States are used to T-drills so that's the style they like. The C-drill configuration is a bit unusual here. The only ones that I recall from the past were Panasonics and they were really good drills. The main difference in my opinion is when you want to push on what the drill is turning. Whether using a drill bit or a driver bit, sometimes you have to push pretty hard on the end of the bit. If you are using a T-drill and you want to push hard on that bit, you'd better use two hands - one on the trigger and one behind the motor so that the one behind the motor is pushing down the axis of the bit. With a C-drill, using only one hand, you can pull the trigger and push down the axis of rotation. There is another consideration and I never thought about it until it was pointed out by someone on this Forum. When you hold a T-drill, your hand is farther forward and when you hold a C-drill, it is somewhat farther back but not much at all. This could conceivably add to the total length of the drill but I don't really think it's a consideration. I have both a C 15 and T 18 and just checked that theory. I don't see a significant difference. I hope that helps. I can go into more detail and use visual support if needed. Tom EDIT before posting: Kev posted this while I was writing... you really need to put these drills in your hand That might well be your best advice. Tom, You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?! Just like a barrel handle jig or a "D" handle.... same jig...just a different handhold. Cheers, Steve Cheers, Steve
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"A Festool is a tool, Marian; much better than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A Festool is still only as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that.” ~ Ode to Shane (the movie)
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #16 on: April 27, 2012, 02:03 AM » |
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You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?! Yes and no, Steve... I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like. That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use. I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing. Tom
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Steve R
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« Reply #17 on: April 27, 2012, 02:08 AM » |
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You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?! Yes and no, Steve... I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like. That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use. I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing. Tom Auto correct might have kicked in on your first paragraph... not sure I follow. Cheers, Steve
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"A Festool is a tool, Marian; much better than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A Festool is still only as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that.” ~ Ode to Shane (the movie)
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #18 on: April 27, 2012, 02:17 AM » |
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You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?! Yes and no, Steve... I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like. That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use. I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing. Tom Auto correct might have kicked in on your first paragraph... not sure I follow. Cheers, Steve I'll try again, maybe I'm being obtuse... What I meant to say is that often I'm in a situation where I can only hold the drill with one hand but I need to push pretty hard. The C-drill allows me to push down the shaft of the bit and pull the trigger on the drill with only the one hand I have to hold the drill. The way a T-drill is designed to be held, I need a second hand to push on the back of the drill motor. If I have only one hand and a T-drill, I'm either bending the bit or losing traction in the fastener that I want to drive. The handle on a T-drill is offest from the axis of rotation of the drive. Tom
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TomGadwa1
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« Reply #19 on: April 27, 2012, 03:02 AM » |
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You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?! Yes and no, Steve... I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like. That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use. I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing. Tom Auto correct might have kicked in on your first paragraph... not sure I follow. Cheers, Steve I'll try again, maybe I'm being obtuse... What I meant to say is that often I'm in a situation where I can only hold the drill with one hand but I need to push pretty hard. The C-drill allows me to push down the shaft of the bit and pull the trigger on the drill with only the one hand I have to hold the drill. The way a T-drill is designed to be held, I need a second hand to push on the back of the drill motor. If I have only one hand and a T-drill, I'm either bending the bit or losing traction in the fastener that I want to drive. The handle on a T-drill is offest from the axis of rotation of the drive. Tom Consider the above if one is drilling into dense material then the advantage would be with the T-drill as the leverage being further away from the rotational axis will help the operator experience less fatigue if drilling many holes. If precise placement with less lever advantage is required then the C-drill would seem to be the better option.
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TS55 EQ OF1400 EQ DFQ 500 Q RO 125 LR32 SET Guide Rail Acc Kit Parallel Guide Set MFK 700 EQ Set MFS700 ETS 150/3 EQ Domino Cutter Assortment T15-3 Drill Set RO 90 EQ Workshop Cleaning Set CT36 Kapex 120 MFT/3 LR32 1080 FS 1400 FS 1900 WCR1000 PSB300 Boom Arm Set Clamping Elements RS 2 E Kapex UG Set Zobo Forstner Set Centrotech Installers Set OF1010 OF2200 ZS-OF 2200 SYS1000 Syslite CT MIDI FS 800
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Kev
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« Reply #20 on: April 27, 2012, 06:42 AM » |
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Just as an aside, when you consider the form factor chosen for Festool's newest drills (T18, Ti15) it's pretty obvious which style Festool considers more popular.
Image a C18 or Ci15 ? ... Not likely.
The T's initially came out without lights - so you can see how the thinking gradually evolved.
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« Last Edit: April 27, 2012, 07:04 AM by Kev »
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fifo28
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« Reply #21 on: April 27, 2012, 06:43 AM » |
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The perfect combination is the CXS and the T-18, all your bases are covered. If you are only going to get one HOLD them first. I was interested in the C drills but when I held them I did not like them.
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PeterK
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« Reply #22 on: April 27, 2012, 08:26 AM » |
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I agree the CXS and T18 are the ideal combo. I had 2 of the original C drills and really liked them but they just never fit my hands well. The T drills fit far better and are more comfortable - to me. I wear a size 9-10 glove if that helps. If at all possible, you need to handle both drills prior to purchase or if in doubt go with the T for more power. I have not heard anyone say the T drill did not fit their hand just that they might have a preference to the C for pressure on the bit. I have heard several say the C does not fit their hand so seems the T drill series are almost guaranteed to satisfy. Don't bother with the T12 or C12 as they are just 10.8 volt batteries. I have both the T12 and T15 and see no advantage at all to the T12.
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FulThrotl
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« Reply #23 on: April 29, 2012, 03:18 AM » |
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Everyone has a budget these days, but i have set aside $700 for this
a T-18 kit is $650. buy it, take it and use it for a month, if you aren't happy, take it back and get a different one. note: you probably won't bring it back. nobody ever does.
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... it's not good.... my festool dealer knows me by my first name.... ...i'm suspecting i'm his 401K.....
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Timtool
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« Reply #24 on: April 29, 2012, 03:50 AM » |
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a T-18 kit is $650. buy it, take it and use it for a month, if you aren't happy, take it back and get a different one.
note: you probably won't bring it back. nobody ever does.
Your probably right, though i don't know what the fine print on the 30 days return policy says in the states, but in europe it says the tool can show signs of light use, but no damage or traces of abuse. While thats doable with most tools, with drills it's quite impossible. I took my T15 2 days on a jobsite to install windows, it fell several times off my belt clip (the hook is too small IMO), a window tipped over and fell on it, etc... After those two days it' in worse shape than my 1 year old CXS which hasn't left the shop. I went for the T15 and don't regret it, according to the specs it's just a few Nm under the T18, so i don't know if the difference in power actually shows, so far i haven't came across a task it couldn't handle, and the battery life is excellent. During one week of jobsite work installing windows and building a 3 car carport with shed with thousands of screws, i started the week with a 2/3 full battery, and ended it with the second battery still 2/3 rd full! While the others with their DeWalt 18v also brand new had to switch batteries at least once a day. And i can say my T15 saw alot more use because they frequently borrowed it since i always had it on my belt.
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TS55R, CT22E, CTLmini, Kapex KS120, ETS125, ETS150/5, RO150, RO90, CXS-set, T-15+3 set, DTS400, OF1010, OF2200 set, Carvex PS420 EBQ set, Centrotec installer set, LR32-sys, FS-800, FS-LR-1400x2, domino 500+domino sys, domino 700 XL, Surfix-sys, Sys-box 1, Syslite, LEV-350, Sys-box,MFTB/1-2-4... MFTC
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barnowl
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« Reply #25 on: April 29, 2012, 08:55 AM » |
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This is the ONE case that I don't prefer Festool.
TS saw, sanders, routers, dominoes, jigsaws, dust extractors, Kapex, YES, emphatically.
But not drills. I don't see any advantage.
IMHO, a Makita or Bosch drill and impact driver kit is the way to go.
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best wishes,
Steve
TS-55, assorted rails, Domino, Kapex, OF1400, ETS 125 EQ, RO 125 FEQ, RO 90, PSB 300 EQ, CT-22, CT-26, MFT-3
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Kev
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« Reply #26 on: April 29, 2012, 12:14 PM » |
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This is the ONE case that I don't prefer Festool.
TS saw, sanders, routers, dominoes, jigsaws, dust extractors, Kapex, YES, emphatically.
But not drills. I don't see any advantage.
IMHO, a Makita or Bosch drill and impact driver kit is the way to go.
That's your personal choice and that's fair enough. From my perspective I wouldn't go back to either Bosch or Makita if they were giving them away - that's how much better I feel the Festool (and Protool) offerings are. I'd probably go Dewalt, Hilti, Metabo, etc way before either of your choices - again, personal choice.
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nydesign
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« Reply #27 on: April 29, 2012, 12:28 PM » |
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This is the ONE case that I don't prefer Festool.
TS saw, sanders, routers, dominoes, jigsaws, dust extractors, Kapex, YES, emphatically.
But not drills. I don't see any advantage.
IMHO, a Makita or Bosch drill and impact driver kit is the way to go.
I brought my new CXS to a job site last summer and was cursed at by the guys working there with me. They were upset using the CXS next to the perfectly good makitas we had, the CXS made them feel like junk. Now they had to go spend money on the CXS 
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Emer Construction
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« Reply #28 on: April 30, 2012, 10:12 AM » |
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This is the ONE case that I don't prefer Festool.
TS saw, sanders, routers, dominoes, jigsaws, dust extractors, Kapex, YES, emphatically.
But not drills. I don't see any advantage.
IMHO, a Makita or Bosch drill and impact driver kit is the way to go.
I agree. Forgot my makitas the other day...just had my t15...reminded me how much i dislike it (vs an impact)
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Steven
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GPowers
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« Reply #29 on: April 30, 2012, 12:46 PM » |
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All the different chucks are a big advantage of the Festool drills. Plus the chucks are interchangeable between all the drills except the CXS.
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Greg Powers Size:XL
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